Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 02a Rover Manual

							ensuring that the outer rotor’s identification
mark faces outwards (see illustration).
13Fit a new sealing ring to the pump body
and refit the cover plate. Apply thread-locking
compound to the threads of the cover plate
Torx screws and tighten them securely.
14Check that the pump rotates freely, then
prime it by injecting oil into its passages and
rotating it. If a long time elapses before the
pump is refitted to the engine, prime it again
before installation.
15Refit the oil pressure relief valve plunger,
ensuring that it is the correct way up, then
install the spring. Fit a new sealing washer to
the threaded plug and tighten the plug
securely.
17 Crankshaft oil seals- 
renewal
4
Right-hand seal
1Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
secure the timing belt clear of the working
area so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil.
2Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal. Take
care not to damage the seal lips during fitting.
Use either grease or a thin layer of insulating
tape to protect the seal lips from the edges of
the crankshaft flats but be careful to remove
all traces of tape and to lubricate the seal lips
if the second method is used. Note that the
seal lips should face inwards.
5Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
crankshaft sprocket.
Left-hand seal
6Remove the flywheel.7Taking care not to mark either the
crankshaft or any part of the cylinder
block/crankcase, lever the seal evenly out of
its housing.
8Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
9Lubricate with grease the lips of the new
seal and the crankshaft shoulder, then offer
up the seal to the cylinder block/crankcase.
10Ease the sealing lip of the seal over the
crankshaft shoulder by hand only, then press
the seal evenly into its housing until its outer
flange seats evenly on the housing lip. If
necessary, a soft-faced mallet can be used to
tap the seal gently into place.
11Wash off any traces of oil, then refit the
flywheel.
18 Flywheel- removal, 
inspection and refitting
5
Removal
1Remove the gearbox and the clutch
assembly.
2Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking
the ring gear teeth (see illustration)or by
bolting a strap between the flywheel and the
cylinder block/crankcase.
3Slacken and remove the flywheel retaining
bolts and discard them The bolts must be
renewed whenever they are disturbed.
4Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it, as it is
very heavy.
Inspection
5If the flywheel’s clutch mating surface is
deeply scored, cracked or otherwise
damaged, then the flywheel must be renewed,
unless it is possible to have it surface ground.
Seek the advice of a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist.
6If the ring gear is badly worn or has missing
teeth, then it must be renewed. This job is
best left to a Rover dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist. The temperature to
which the new ring gear must be heated for
installation (350°C - shown by an even light
blue colour) is critical and, if not doneaccurately, the hardness of the teeth will be
destroyed.
7Examine the reluctor ring (fitted to the rear
of the flywheel) for signs of damage and
check that it is securely fastened by the two
retaining screws. If the reluctor ring is
damaged, then it must be renewed.
Refitting
8Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel
and crankshaft. Clean any remaining adhesive
from the threads of the crankshaft threaded
holes by making two saw cuts at opposite
points along the (carefully-cleaned) threads of
one of the original flywheel bolts and screwing
it into each hole in turn. Do notuse a tap to
clean the threads in this way.
9Position the flywheel over the crankshaft’s
locating dowel, press it into place and fit six
newbolts.
10Lock the flywheel using the method
employed on dismantling, then tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench
setting.
11Refit the clutch, then remove the locking
tool and refit the gearbox.
19 Engine/gearbox mountings-
inspection and renewal
2
Inspection
1If improved access is required, raise the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
2Check the mounting rubber to see if it is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal at any point. Renew the mounting if any
such damage or deterioration is evident.
3Check that all mounting fasteners are
securely tightened. Use a torque wrench to
check, if possible.
4Using a large screwdriver or a pry bar,
check for wear in the mounting by carefully
levering against it to check for free play.
Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an
assistant to move the engine/gearbox unit
back and forth or from side to side while 
you watch the mounting. While some free play
is to be expected even from new
components, excessive wear should be
obvious. If excessive free play is found, check
first that the fasteners are correctly secured,
then renew any worn components as
described below.
Renewal
Right-hand mounting
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6To improve access to the mounting,
remove the expansion tank mounting bolts
then free the coolant hose from any relevant
retaining clips and position the tank clear of
the engine. On models equipped with power-
assisted steering, undo all the power steering
hose retaining clamp bolts then slide the fluid
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•21
18.2  Using fabricated tool to lock flywheel
in position16.12  Oil pump outer rotor outside face
identifying mark (arrowed)
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1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							reservoir out of its retaining clip and position it
clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care
not to place any undue strain on hoses and
mop up any spilt fluid immediately.
7Support the weight of the engine/gearbox
unit by using a trolley jack, with a wooden
spacer to prevent damage to the sump.
Unscrew the mounting through-bolt and nut
and the mounting to bracket nuts. Remove
the mounting, noting the two rubber washers
(see illustrations).
8Where necessary, unscrew the retaining
bolts and remove the bracket from the
cylinder block/crankcase.
9Check carefully for signs of wear or damage
on all components and renew them where
necessary.
10On reassembly, refit the bracket to thecylinder block/crankcase and tighten the
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
11Locate the rubber washers on the
mounting, one on each side of its centre boss,
then refit the mounting to the bracket and
tighten the retaining nuts, finger-tight only.
12Using the trolley jack to position the
engine unit at the correct height, refit from
rear to front the mounting-to-body through-
bolt, ensuring that the rubber washers are
correctly seated, then refit the nut (see
illustration).
13Tighten the mounting to bracket nuts and
the through-bolt to the specified torque
wrench settings, then lower and remove the
jack.
14Where necessary, refit the power steering
fluid reservoir to its mounting bracket and
secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position
with the retaining bolts.
15Refit the coolant expansion tank and
tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure
the coolant hose in position with any
necessary retaining clips and reconnect the
battery negative lead.
Left-hand mounting
16Disconnect the battery negative lead then
disconnect the clutch cable.
17To improve access to the mounting,
unclip the engine wiring harness and position
it clear of the mounting.
18Support the weight of the engine/gearboxunit by using a trolley jack, with a wooden
spacer to prevent damage to the gearbox
casing. Slacken and remove the two bolts
securing the gearbox bracket to the mounting
(see illustration).
19Lower the engine/gearbox unit, then
remove the four bolts securing the mounting
to the body and manoeuvre the mounting out
of position. If required, slacken and remove
the two bolts which secure the bracket to the
gearbox and remove the bracket (see
illustrations).
20Although the mounting rubber is secured
by two nuts to a metal outer section, the two
parts can be renewed only as a complete
assembly. Check all components carefully for
signs of wear or damage and renew where
necessary.
21On reassembly, refit the bracket to the
gearbox and tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting.
22Manoeuvre the mounting into position
then refit the retaining bolts and tighten them
to the specified torque setting.
23Use the trolley jack to raise the gearbox to
the correct height, then refit the mounting
bracket to mounting bolts and tighten them to
the specified torque setting. Refit the wiring
harness to its retaining clip.
24Refit the clutch cable and reconnect the
battery negative lead.
Rear mounting
25Apply the handbrake then jack up the
2A•22 Engine in-car repair procedures
19.19c  Gearbox bracket is retained by two
bolts (one arrowed)19.19b  . . . and remove mounting19.19a  . . . then lower gearbox and remove
four left-hand mounting-to-body bolts
(arrowed) . . .
19.12  Check rubber washers are correctly
installed before tightening through-bolt nut
19.18  Slacken and remove gearbox
bracket-to-mounting bolts . . .
19.7b  Right-hand mounting through-
bolt (A), mounting-to-bracket nuts (B),
bracket-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts
(two arrowed - C)19.7a  Use trolley jack with wooden spacer
to adjust height of engine/gearbox unit
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
26Support the weight of the engine/gearbox
unit by using a trolley jack, with a wooden
spacer to prevent damage to the transmission
casing. Unbolt the mounting bracket from the
gearbox and the connecting link from the
underbody bracket, then remove the
mounting (see illustrations).
27Unscrew the through-bolt to separate the
connecting link from the bracket. Check
carefully for signs of wear or damage, paying
particular attention to the connecting link
rubber bushes. Renew as necessary.
28Reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Tighten all mounting bolts to the
specified torque setting.
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•23
19.26b  . . . then undo connecting link-to-
underbody bracket bolt and remove
mounting19.26a  Unbolt rear mounting to gearbox
bolts (arrowed) . . .
2A
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97