Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 02a Rover Manual

							component needs to be removed at the same
time, start by removing the timing belt, then
remove each component as described below
whilst ignoring the preliminary dismantling
steps.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2To improve access to the timing belt
components (see illustrations), remove the
expansion tank mounting bolts then free the
coolant hose from any relevant retaining clips
and position the tank clear of the engine. On
models equipped with power-assisted
steering, undo all the power steering hose
retaining clip bolts then slide the fluidreservoir out of its retaining clip and position it
clear of the timing belt covers. Take great care
not to place any undue strain on hoses and
mop up any spilt fluid immediately.
3Remove the timing belt upper right-hand
(outer) cover.
4Apply the handbrake then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the right-hand roadwheel.
5From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
6Using a suitable spanner or socket on the
crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft ina clockwise direction until the long white-
painted mark on the crankshaft pulley’s
outboard (right-hand) face is aligned with the
single, separate mark on the timing belt lower
cover so that the crankshaft is in the 90°
BTDC position (see Chapter 1 for details of
the pulley/cover marks).
7Check that the camshaft sprocket mark(s)
align as described in Section 8, paragraph 15
then proceed as described under the relevant
sub-heading.
Camshaft sprocket(s)
8Slacken through half a turn each, the timing
belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and the
tensioner backplate clamp bolt. Push the
pulley assembly down to release all tension
from the timing belt, then re-tighten the
backplate clamp bolt securely.
9Remove the belt from the camshaft
sprocket(s), taking care not to twist it too
sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt.
Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing
belt is refitted.
10On K8 engines, slacken the camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt and remove it, along
with its washer. To prevent the camshaft from
rotating, use Rover service tool 18G 1521 to
retain the sprocket. If the tool is not available,
then an acceptable substitute can be
fabricated from two lengths of steel strip (one
long, the other short) and three nuts and bolts.
One nut and bolt should form the pivot of a
forked tool with the remaining two nuts and
bolts at the tips of the forks to engage with
the sprocket spokes, as shown in illus-
tration 9.23a.
11On K16 engines, unscrew the appropriate
camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and remove it,
along with its washer. To prevent a camshaft
from rotating, lock together both sprockets
using Rover service tool 18G 1570. This tool is
a metal sprag shaped on both sides to fit 
the sprocket teeth and is inserted between the
sprockets. If the tool is not available, then an
acceptable substitute can be cut from a length
of square-section steel tube or similar to fit as
closely as possible around the sprocket
spokes (see illustrations).
12On all engines, remove the sprocket(s)
from the camshaft end(s), noting the locating
roll pin(s) (see illustration). If a roll pin is a
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•11
9.12  Removing camshaft sprocket (roll pin
arrowed) - K8 engine9.11b  . . . to fit sprocket spokes as closely
as possible - K16 engine9.11a  Camshaft locking tool cut from steel
section . . .
2A
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
9.2b  Timing belt, sprockets and covers - K16 engine
1 Timing belt upper right-
hand (outer) cover
2 Bolt
3 Seal
4 Bolt
5 Timing belt lower cover
6 Seal
7 Bolt
8 Bolt
9 Crankshaft pulley10 Washer
11 Crankshaft pulley bolt
12 Timing belt
13 Camshaft sprockets
14 Bolt
15 Washer
16 Timing belt tensioner
pulley assembly
17 Tensioner pulley Allen
screw18 Tensioner pulley spring
19 Sleeve
20 Pillar bolt
21 Tensioner backplate
clamp bolt
22 Crankshaft sprocket
23 Timing belt upper left-
hand (inner) cover
24 Bolt 
						

							loose fit in the camshaft end, remove it and
store it with the sprocket for safe-keeping.
Crankshaft sprocket
13On K16 engines, use the tool described in
paragraph 11 to lock together the camshaft
sprockets so that they cannot move under
valve spring pressure when the timing belt is
removed.
14Remove the crankshaft pulley and timing
belt lower cover.
15Slacken through half a turn each the
timing belt tensioner pulley Allen screw and
the tensioner backplate clamp bolt, push the
pulley assembly down to release all the
tension from the timing belt, then re-tighten
the backplate clamp bolt securely.
16Work the belt clear of the crankshaft
sprocket, taking care not to twist it too
sharply. Use fingers only to handle the belt.
Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing
belt is refitted.
17Remove the sprocket from the crankshaft.
Tensioner assembly
18On K16 engines, use the tool described in
paragraph 11 to lock together the camshaft
sprockets so that they cannot move under
valve spring pressure when the timing belt is
removed.
19Using a suitable pair of pliers, unhook the
tensioner spring from the pillar bolt. Unscrew
the tensioner pulley Allen screw and the
tensioner backplate clamp bolt then withdraw
the tensioner assembly from the engine unit.
Do not rotate the crankshaft until the timing
belt is re-tensioned.
Inspection
20Clean thoroughly the camshaft/crankshaft
sprockets and renew any that show signs of
wear, damage or cracks.
21Clean the tensioner assembly but do not
use any strong solvent which may enter the
pulley bearing. Check that the pulley rotates
freely on the backplate, with no sign of
stiffness or of free play. Renew the assembly
if there is any doubt about its condition or ifthere are any obvious signs of wear or
damage. The same applies to the tensioner
spring, which should be checked with great
care as its condition is critical for the correct
tensioning of the timing belt.
Refitting
Camshaft sprocket(s)
22If removed, refit the roll pin to the
camshaft end, ensuring that its split is facing
the centre of the camshaft, then refit the
sprocket so that the timing marks are facing
outwards (to the right). On K16 engines,
ensure that the appropriate sprocket keyway
engages with the camshaft locating pin (ie: if
refitting the inlet camshaft sprocket, engage
its IN keyway with the roll pin and so on) then
refit the sprocket retaining bolt and washer
(see illustration). Where necessary, repeat
the procedure for the second sprocket.
23Prevent the sprocket(s) from rotating by
using the method employed on removal, then
tighten the sprocket retaining bolt(s) to the
specified torque setting. Check that the
sprocket timing marks align as described in
Section 8, paragraph 15 (see illustrations).
24Fit the timing belt over the camshaft
sprockets, ensuring that the belt front run
(and, on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that
is, all slack is on the tensioner pulley side of
the belt. Do not twist the belt sharply while
refitting it and ensure that the belt teeth are
correctly seated centrally in the sprockets and
that the timing marks remain in alignment.
25Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp
bolt and check that the tensioner pulley
moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner
assembly is not free to move under spring
tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will
not be correctly tensioned.
26On K16 engines, remove the camshaft
sprocket locking tool.
27Using a suitable spanner or socket, rotate
the crankshaft two full turns clockwise to
settle and tension the belt. Realign the
crankshaft pulley (90° BTDC) mark and check
that the sprocket timing mark(s) are still
correctly aligned.28If all is well, first tighten the tensioner
pulley backplate clamp bolt to the specified
torque, then tighten the tensioner pulley Allen
screw to the specified torque.
29Refit the front undercover panel and
roadwheel, then lower the vehicle to the
ground.
30Refit the timing belt upper right-hand
(outer) cover.
31Where necessary, refit the power steering
fluid reservoir to the mounting bracket and
secure the hydraulic hose clamps in position
with the retaining bolts.
32Refit the coolant expansion tank and
tighten the mounting bolts securely. Secure
the coolant hose in position with any
necessary retaining clips and reconnect the
battery negative lead.
Crankshaft sprocket
33Refit the sprocket to the crankshaft so
that it locates correctly on the crankshaft’s
flattened section, noting that the sprocket
flange must be innermost so that the two
timing marks are on the outside (right-hand
side) of the sprocket. Check that the sprocket
timing marks align as described in Section 8,
paragraph 15.
34Fit the timing belt over the crankshaft
sprocket, ensuring that the belt front run (and,
on K16 engines, the top run) is taut, that is, all
slack is on the tensioner pulley side of the
belt. Do not twist the belt sharply 
while refitting it and ensure that the belt teeth
are correctly seated centrally in the 
sprockets and that the timing marks remain in
alignment.
35Slacken the tensioner backplate clamp
bolt and check that the tensioner pulley
moves to tension the belt. If the tensioner
assembly is not free to move under spring
tension, rectify the fault or the timing belt will
not be correctly tensioned.
36On K16 engines, remove the camshaft
sprocket locking tool.
37Refit the lower timing belt cover and the
crankshaft pulley.
38Carry out the operations described in
paragraphs 27 to 32.
2A•12 Engine in-car repair procedures
9.23b  Locking camshafts in position with
fabricated tool - K16 engine9.23a  Using fabricated tool to hold
camshaft pulley in position - K8 engine9.22  Camshaft sprockets have two
keyways. Engage EX keyway with exhaust
camshaft roll pin and IN keyway with inlet
camshaft roll pin - K16 engine
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							Tensioner pulley
39Refit the tensioner pulley assembly and
tighten the pulley Allen screw and the
backplate clamp bolt lightly. Hook the
tensioner spring over the pillar bolt and check
that the tensioner is free to move under spring
tension and that the pulley bears correctly
against the timing belt (see illustration).
40On K16 engines, remove the camshaft
sprocket locking tool.
41Carry out the operations described above
in paragraphs 27 to 32.
10 Camshaft oil seals- renewal
4
Note:If a right-hand oil seal is to be renewed
with the timing belt still in place, then check
that the belt is free from oil contamination.
Renew the belt if signs of oil contamination
are found. Cover the belt to protect it from
contamination while work is in progress and
ensure that all traces of oil are removed from
the area before the belt is refitted.
Right-hand seal(s)
1Remove the camshaft sprocket(s).
2Punch or drill two small holes opposite
each other in the oil seal. Screw a self-tapping
screw into each and pull on the screws with
pliers to extract the seal.
3Clean the seal housing and polish off any
burrs or raised edges which may have caused
the seal to fail in the first place.
4Lubricate the lips of the new seal with clean
engine oil and drive it into position until it
seats on its locating shoulder. Use a suitable
tubular drift, such as a socket, which bears
only on the hard outer edge of the seal (see
illustration). Take care not to damage the
seal lips during fitting and note that the seal
lips should face inwards.
5Refit the camshaft sprocket(s).
Left-hand seals - K16 engines
6Disconnect the battery negative lead.
7To reach the inlet camshaft seal, remove
the distributor.
8To reach the exhaust camshaft seal,unfasten the rubber strap securing the air
intake duct to its support bracket, disconnect
the vacuum pipe from the air temperature
control valve and unclip the pipe from the
support bracket. Undo the bracket’s retaining
bolts and remove the bracket from the
cylinder head (see illustration).
9Remove the old seal and install the new one
as described above in paragraphs 2 to 4.
10On the inlet camshaft, refit the distributor.
11On the exhaust camshaft, refit the air
intake duct support bracket, tightening its
screws to the specified torque wrench setting.
Reconnect and secure the air temperature
control valve vacuum pipe and refit the rubber
strap to secure the air intake duct.
12Connect the battery negative lead.
11 Camshafts and hydraulic
tappets- removal, inspection
and refitting
4
Note: Prior to removing the camshaft(s), obtain
Rover sealant kit LVV 10002 which also
contains a plastic scraper. Read the
instructions supplied with the kit and take care
not to allow the sealant to contact the fingers,
as it will bond the skin. If difficulty is
experienced with the removal of hardened
sealant from mating surfaces, it will be
necessary to use a foam action gasket remover.
Removal
K8 engines
1Remove the cylinder head cover (see
illustration 11.0a overleaf).
2Remove the distributor.
3Remove the camshaft sprocket.4Carefully prise the oil feed tube away from
the camshaft bearing caps and remove it 
from the head assembly. Remove the 
O-rings from the oil rail and discard them. 
The O-rings must be renewed whenever they
are disturbed.
5The camshaft right and left-hand end
bearing caps are noticeably different and
cannot be confused. The intermediate bearing
caps (which are all similar) are marked by the
manufacturer with a number (1, 2, 3, or 4)
stamped in the boss next to the oil feed hole.
Before unbolting any of the caps, make
written notes to ensure that each can be
easily identified and refitted in its original
location.
6Working in the reverseof the tightening
sequence (see illustration 11.29), slacken the
camshaft bearing cap bolts progressively, by
one turn at a time. Work only as described to
release the pressure of the valve springs on
the bearing caps gradually and evenly.
7Withdraw the bearing caps, noting the
presence of the locating dowels on the end
caps, then remove the camshaft and withdraw
the oil seal.
8Obtain eight small, clean plastic containers,
number them 1 to 8, and then fill them with
clean engine oil. Using a rubber sucker,
withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn (see
illustration), and place it in its respective
container, to prevent oil loss. Do not
interchange the hydraulic tappets or the rate
of wear will be much increased and do not
allow them to lose oil or they will take a long
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•13
10.8  Remove air intake duct support
bracket to reach exhaust camshaft left-
hand oil seal - K16 engine10.4  Fitting a new camshaft right-hand oil
seal - K16 engine9.39  Ensure timing belt tensioner spring is
correctly hooked onto pillar bolt
2A
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
If faulty tappets are
diagnosed and the engine’s
service history is unknown,
it is always worth trying the
effect of renewing the engine oil and
filter (using only good quality engine oil
of the recommended viscosity and
specification) before going to the
expense of renewing any of the
tappets. 
11.8  Use a valve-grinding sucker to
extract hydraulic tappets 
						

							2A•14 Engine in-car repair procedures
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/9711.0a  Top end components - K8 engine
11.0b  Top end components - K16 engine
1 Cylinder head cover
2 Seal
3 Engine oil filler cap
4 Seal
5 Bolt
6 HT lead retaining clip
bracket
7 Screw
8 HT lead retaining clip
9 HT lead retaining clip
10 HT lead retaining clip
bracket
11 Air intake duct support
bracket
12 Fastener insert
13 Bolt
14 Oil seal
15 Roll pin
16 Camshaft
17 Camshaft right-hand
bearing cap*
18 Dowel
19 Bolt
20 Camshaft intermediate
bearing cap*
21 Bolt
22 Camshaft left-hand
bearing cap*23 Oil feed tube
24 O-ring
25 Cylinder head bolt
26 Cylinder head
27 Cylinder head gasket
28 Hydraulic tappet
29 Split collets
30 Spring retainer
31 Valve spring
32 Valve stem seal/ spring
lower seat
33 Valve guide
34 Inlet valve
35 Valve seat insert
36 Exhaust valve
37 Valve seat insert
38 Gasket
39 Coolant outlet elbow
40 Bolt
41 Coolant temperature
gauge sender unit
42 Spark plug
* Note: Camshaft bearing
caps shown for reference
only - not available
separately from cylinder
head
1 Spark plug cover
2 Screw
3 Retaining washer
4 Engine oil filler cap
5 Seal
6 Spark plug
7 Pillar bolt
8 HT lead grommet
9 HT lead clip plate
10 Bolt
11 Cylinder head cover
12 Gasket
13 Camshaft carrier*
14 Bolt
15 Cylinder head bolt
16 Inlet camshaft
17 Exhaust camshaft
18 Roll pin
19 Rotor arm drive
spindle
20 Oil seal
21 Hydraulic tappet
22 Split collets
23 Spring retainer24 Valve spring
25 Valve stem seal/spring
lower seat
26 Cylinder head
27 Dowel
28 Cylinder head gasket
29 Valve guide
30 Inlet valves
31 Valve seat insert
32 Exhaust valves
33 Valve seat insert
34 Air intake duct support
bracket
35 Bolt
36 Gasket
37 Coolant outlet elbow
38 Bolt
39 Coolant temperature
gauge sender unit
* Note: Camshaft carrier
shown for reference only -
not available separately
from cylinder head 
						

							time to refill with oil on restarting the engine,
resulting in incorrect valve clearances.
K16 engines
9Remove both camshaft sprockets, then
unscrew the inner cover’s upper retaining
bolts so that the cover can be pulled away
from the cylinder head just far enough for
adequate working clearance. Take care not to
distort or damage the cover or the timing belt
(see illustration).
10Remove the cylinder head cover (see
illustration 11.0b).
11Remove the distributor.
12Unclip the air temperature control valve
vacuum pipe from the air intake duct support
bracket, then unbolt the bracket from the
cylinder head.
13Working in the reverseof the tightening
sequence (see illustration 11.36), evenly and
progressively slacken the camshaft carrier
bolts by one turn at a time. Once all valve
spring pressure has been relieved, remove the
bolts.
14Withdraw the camshaft carrier, noting the
presence of the locating dowels, then remove
the camshafts and slide off the oil seals. The
inlet camshaft can be identified by the
distributor rotor arm drive spindle (or its
location), therefore there is no need to mark
the camshafts.
15Obtain sixteen small, clean plastic
containers, number them 1 to 16, and then fill
them with clean engine oil. Using a rubbersucker, withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn
(see illustration 11.8), and place it in its
respective container, to prevent oil loss. Do
not interchange the hydraulic tappets or the
rate of wear will be much increased and do
not allow them to lose oil or they will take a
long time to refill with oil on restarting the
engine, resulting in incorrect valve clearances.
Inspection
16Check each hydraulic tappet for signs of
obvious wear (scoring, pitting, etc) and for
ovality. Renew if necessary.
17If the engine’s valve clearances have
sounded noisy, particularly if the noise
persists after initial start-up from cold, then
there is reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic
tappet. Only a good mechanic experienced in
these engines can tell whether the noise level
is typical, or if renewal is warranted of one or
more of the tappets.
18If any tappet’s operation is faulty, then it
must be renewed.
19Carefully remove all traces of old sealant
from the mating surfaces of the bearing caps
or camshaft carrier and cylinder head by using
a plastic scraper. Examine the camshaft
bearing journals and the cylinder head bearing
surfaces for signs of obvious wear or pitting. If
any such signs are evident, renew the
component concerned.
20To check the bearing journal running
clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets,
carefully clean the bearing surfaces and refit
the camshaft(s) and carrier/bearing caps with a
strand of Plastigauge across each journal.
Tighten the carrier/bearing cap bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting whilst taking
great care not to rotate the camshaft(s), then
remove the carrier/bearing caps and use the
scale provided with the Plastigauge kit to
measure the width of each compressed strand.
21If the running clearance of any bearing is
found to be worn to the specified service limit
or beyond, fit a new camshaft and repeat the
check. If the clearance is still excessive, then
the cylinder head must be renewed.
22To check camshaft endfloat, remove the
hydraulic tappets, carefully clean the bearing
surfaces and refit the camshaft(s) and
carrier/bearing caps. Tighten to the specifiedtorque wrench setting the carrier/bearing cap
bolts, then measure the endfloat using a Dial
Test Indicator (DTI) or dial gauge mounted on
the cylinder head so that its tip bears on the
camshaft right-hand end.
23Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge,
zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully
away from the gauge and note the gauge
reading. If the endfloat measured is found to
be worn to the specified service limit or
beyond, fit a new camshaft and repeat the
check. If the clearance is still excessive, then
the cylinder head must be renewed.
24The camshaft itself should show no signs of
marks, pitting or scoring on the lobe surfaces. If
such marks are evident, renew the camshaft.
25If a camshaft is renewed, extract the roll
pin from the old one and fit the pin to the new
camshaft with its split towards the camshaft’s
centre.
Refitting
K8 engines
26Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic
tappet bores and the tappets (see
illustration). Note that if new tappets are
being fitted, they must be charged with clean
engine oil before installation. Carefully refit the
tappets to the cylinder head, ensuring that
each tappet is refitted to its original bore and is
the correct way up. Some care will be required
to enter the tappets squarely into their bores.
27Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes then refit the camshaft. Position the
shaft so that its No 1 cylinder lobes are
pointing away from their valves and the roll
pin in the camshaft’s right-hand end is in the 
4 o’clock position when viewed from the right-
hand end of the engine (see illustration).
28Ensure that the locating dowels are
pressed firmly into their recesses. Check that
the mating surfaces are completely clean,
unmarked and free from oil, then apply a thin
bead of special Rover sealant to the mating
surfaces of the front and rear bearing caps as
shown (see illustration 11.29). Carefully
follow the instructions supplied with the
sealant kit. Refit the bearing caps, using the
notes made on removal, to ensure that each is
installed correctly and in its original location
(see illustration).
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•15
11.28  Apply sealant (arrowed) and fit
camshaft bearing caps - K8 engine11.27  Camshaft roll pin location at TDC
position (for refitting camshaft bearing
caps) - K8 engine11.26  Lubricate hydraulic tappets
thoroughly and refit correct way up - 
K8 engine
2A
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
11.9  Secure partly-removed timing belt
upper left-hand (inner) cover clear of
cylinder head - K16 engine 
						

							29Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively tighten the
camshaft bearing cap bolts by one turn at a
time until the caps touch the cylinder head
evenly. Now go round again, working in the
same sequence, and tighten all the bolts to
the specified torque setting. Work only as
described to impose the pressure of the valve
springs gradually and evenly on the 
bearing caps. Wipe off all surplus sealant sothat none is left to find its way into any
oilways.
30Squirt clean engine oil into each camshaft
bearing cap oil hole, then fit new O-rings to
each of the oil feed tube stubs (see
illustration). Refit the oil feed tube to the
cylinder head and press it firmly into position
in the camshaft bearing caps.
31Fit a new camshaft oil seal (see
illustration), then refit the cylinder head cover
and camshaft sprocket.
32Refit the distributor.
K16 engines
33Liberally oil the cylinder head hydraulic
tappet bores and the tappets. Note that if new
tappets are being fitted, they must be charged
with clean engine oil before installation.
Carefully refit the tappets to the cylinder head,
ensuring that each tappet is refitted to its
original bore and is the correct way up. Some
care will be required to enter the tappets
squarely into their bores.
34Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes and refit them to the cylinder head.
Position each shaft so that its No 1 cylinder
lobes are pointing away from their valves.
With the shafts in this position, the roll pin in
the inlet camshaft’s right-hand end will be in
the 4 o’clock position when viewed from the
right-hand end of the engine, while that of theexhaust camshaft will be in the 8 o’clock
position (see illustration).
35Ensure that the locating dowels are
pressed firmly into their recesses, check that
the mating surfaces are completely clean,
unmarked and free from oil, then apply a thin
bead of special Rover sealant to the mating
surfaces of the camshaft carrier as shown
(see illustration). Carefully follow the
instructions supplied with the sealant kit. Refit
the carrier.
36Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), progressively tighten the
camshaft carrier bolts by one turn at a time
until the carrier touches the cylinder head
evenly. Now go round again, working in the
same sequence, tightening all bolts to the
specified torque setting. Work only as
described to impose the pressure of the valve
springs gradually and evenly on the carrier.
Wipe off all surplus sealant so that none is left
to find its way into any oilways.
37Fit new camshaft oil seals, then refit the
cylinder head cover, inner timing cover
retaining bolts and camshaft sprockets.
38Refit the distributor.
39Refit the air intake duct support bracket,
tightening its screws to their specified torque
wrench setting, then reconnect and secure
the air temperature control valve vacuum pipe
and refit the rubber strap to secure the air
intake duct.
2A•16 Engine in-car repair procedures
11.36  Camshaft carrier bolt tightening
sequence - K16 engine11.35  Apply thin bead of sealant to
camshaft carrier mating surfaces along
paths shown by heavy black lines - 
K16 engine
11.31  Fitting a new camshaft right-hand
oil seal - K8 engine
11.34  Camshaft roll pin locations at TDC
position for refitting camshaft carrier
(arrowed) - K16 engine
11.30b  Renew O-rings (arrowed) before
refitting oil feed tube - K8 engine11.30a  Fill oil holes with clean engine oil -
K8 engine
11.29  Camshaft bearing cap bolt
tightening sequence - K8 engine
Note: Apply thin bead of sealant to end
bearing cap mating surfaces along paths
shown by heavy black lines
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							12 Valve clearances- 
general information
1It is necessary for a clearance to exist
between the tip of each valve stem and the
valve operating mechanism. This allows for
expansion of the various engine components
as the engine reaches normal operating
temperature.
2On most older engine designs, this meant
that the valve clearances (also known as
‘tappet’ clearances) had to be checked and
adjusted regularly. If the clearances were too
slack, the engine would be very noisy, its
power output would suffer and its fuel
consumption would increase. Conversely, if
the clearances were too tight, the engine’s
power output would be reduced and the
valves and their seats could be severely
damaged.
3The engines covered in this Manual employ
hydraulic tappets which use engine oil
pressure to automatically take up the
clearance between each camshaft lobe and
its respective valve stem. This means that
there is no need for regular checking and
inspection of the valve clearances, but it is
essential that only good quality oil of the
recommended viscosity and specification is
used in the engine and that this oil is
scrupulously changed at the recommended
intervals. If this advice is not followed, the
oilways and tappets may become clogged
with particles of dirt or deposits of burnt
engine oil, so that the system cannot work
properly. Ultimately, one or more of the
tappets may fail and expensive repairs may
be required.
4On starting the engine from cold, there will
be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds
up in all parts of the engine, especially in the
tappets. The valve clearances, therefore, may
well rattle for about 10 seconds or so and
then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs
and is nothing to worry about, provided that
all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet.
5After the vehicle has been standing for
several days, the valve clearances may rattle
for longer than usual as nearly all the oil will
have drained away from the engine’s top end
components and bearing surfaces. While this
is only to be expected, care must be taken not
to damage the engine by running it at high
speed until all the tappets are refilled with oil
and operating normally. With the vehicle
stationary, hold the engine at no more than a
fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)
for 10 to 15 minutes or until the noise ceases.
Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm
until all tappets are fully recharged with oil and
all noise has ceased.
6If the valve clearances are thought to be
noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the
engine’s top end after it has reached normal
operating temperature, take the vehicle to a
Rover dealer for expert advice. Depending onthe mileage covered and the usage to which
each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may
be noisier than others. Only a good mechanic
experienced in these engines can tell if the
noise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage
or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’s
operation is faulty, then it must be renewed.
13 Cylinder head- 
removal and refitting
4
Note:Due to engine design, it will become
very difficult, almost impossible, to turn the
crankshaft once the cylinder head bolts have
been slackened. The manufacturer states that
the crankshaft will be ‘tight’ and should not be
rotated more than absolutely necessary once
the head has been removed. If the crankshaft
cannot be rotated, then it must be removed
for overhaul work to proceed. With this in
mind, the crankshaft always must be rotated
to the desired position before the bolts are
disturbed.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Remove the camshaft sprocket(s).
4Unscrew the bolts securing the timing belt
upper left-hand (inner) cover to the cylinder
head, so that the cover can be pulled away
from the cylinder head just far enough for
adequate working clearance. Take care not to
distort or damage the cover or the timing belt.
5Remove the cylinder head cover.
6Disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold and, where fitted,
disconnect or release the lambda sensor
wiring so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
7Note that the following text assumes that
the cylinder head will be removed with both
inlet and exhaust manifolds attached. This is
easier but makes it a bulky and heavy
assembly to handle. If it is wished first to
remove the manifolds, proceed as described
in the relevant Sections of Chapter 4.
8On carburettor engines, disconnect the
following from the carburettor and inlet
manifold as described in the relevant Sections
of Chapter 4A:
a) Fuel pump feed hose - plug both
openings to prevent loss of fuel and entry
of dirt into system.
b) Carburettor idle bypass solenoid wires.
c) Accelerator cable.
d) Choke cable.
e) Vacuum servo unit vacuum hose.
f) Inlet manifold PTC heater wire.
g) Inlet manifold heater temperature switch
wiring.
9On fuel-injected engines, refer to the
relevant Sections of Chapter 4B or C, and
disconnect or remove all throttle body/fuel rail
components appertaining to cylinder head
removal, noting the following:a) The fuel system must be depressurised
before any component is disconnected. 
b) Plug the open ends of all disconnected
pipes to prevent loss of fuel and entry of
dirt into system.
c) Discard all sealing washers and O-rings,
these must be renewed.
10Working as described in Chapter 3,
disconnect the connector plug from the
coolant temperature sensor screwed into the
coolant outlet elbow, then disconnect the
coolant hoses from the (three) inlet manifold
unions and from the coolant outlet elbow.
11Unclip the engine wiring harness from the
inlet manifold or its support stays. Slacken the
bolts securing the stays to the manifold, then
unbolt the support stays and the carburettor
metal overflow pipes from the cylinder
block/crankcase.
12Remove the distributor cap, complete
with the spark plug HT leads. Remove the
spark plugs.
13On K16 engines equipped with air
conditioning, undo the nuts and bolts
securing the heat shields to the rear of the
alternator and air conditioning compressor
and remove both heat shields. Slacken the
two lower alternator mounting bolts then
remove the upper mounting bolt and pivot the
alternator away from the cylinder head.
14Working in the reverse of the tightening
sequence (see illustrations 13.29a or
13.29b), progressively slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts by one turn at a time. A
female Torx-type socket (No 12 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn and store
it in its correct fitted order by pushing it
through a clearly-marked cardboard template.
15The joint between the cylinder head and
gasket and the cylinder block/crankcase must
now be broken without disturbing the wet
liners. Although these liners are better located
and sealed than some wet liner engines, there
is still a risk of coolant and foreign matter
leaking into the sump if the cylinder head is
lifted carelessly. If care is not taken and the
liners are moved, there is also a possibility of
the bottom seals being disturbed, causing
leakage after refitting the head.
16To break the joint, obtain two L-shaped
metal bars which fit into the cylinder head bolt
holes and gently rock the cylinder head free
towards the front of the vehicle (see
illustration). Do not try to swivel the head on
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•17
13.16  Using two cranked bars to break
cylinder head joint
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							the cylinder block/crankcase as it is located
by dowels as well as by the tops of the liners.
17With the joint broken, lift the cylinder head
away, using assistance if possible as it is a
heavy assembly, especially if complete with
the manifolds. Remove the gasket, noting the
two locating dowels, and discard it.
18Further to the warnings given in the note
at the beginning of this Section, do not
attempt to rotate the crankshaft with the
cylinder head removed, otherwise the wet
liners may be displaced. Operations that
would normally require the rotation of the
crankshaft (eg: cleaning the piston crowns)
must be carried out with great care to ensure
that no particles of dirt or foreign matter are
left behind. If cylinder liner clamps are to be
used, they must be clamped in place usingspacers fitted under the heads of the cylinder
head bolts.
19If the cylinder head is to be dismantled,
remove the camshaft(s) then refer to the
relevant Sections of Part B of this Chapter.
Refitting
20Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, particularly their threads. Keeping all
bolts in their correct fitted order, wash them
and wipe dry. Check each bolt for any sign of
visible wear or damage, renewing as
necessary. Lightly oil the threads of each bolt,
carefully enter it into its original hole and
screw it in, by hand only until finger-tight.
Measure the distance from the cylinder
block/crankcase gasket surface to under the
bolt’s head (see illustration).
21If the distance measured is under 97 mm,
the bolt may be re-used. If the distance
measured is more than 97 mm, the bolt must
be renewed. Considering the task these bolts
perform and the pressures they must
withstand, owners should consider renewing
all the bolts as a matched set if more than one
of the originals fail inspection or are close to
the limit set.
22The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block/crankcase must be perfectly
clean before refitting the head. Use a hard
plastic or wood scraper to remove all traces of
gasket and carbon.
23Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and the cylinder head fornicks, deep scratches and other damage. If
slight, they may be removed carefully with a
file, but if excessive, machining may be the
only alternative to renewal.
24If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part B of this
Chapter if necessary.
25Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase.
Check that the two locating dowels are in
position at each end of the cylinder
block/crankcase surface.
26Position a new gasket on the cylinder
block/crankcase surface so that its TOP mark
is uppermost and the FRONT arrow points to
the timing belt end (see illustrations).
27Refit the cylinder head, locating it on the
dowels (see illustration).
28Keeping all the cylinder head bolts in their
correct fitted order, wash them and wipe dry.
Lightly oil under the head and on the threads
of each bolt, carefully enter it into its original
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
29Working progressively and in the
sequence shown (see illustrations), use first
a torque wrench, then an ordinary socket
extension bar to tighten the cylinder head
bolts through the specified stages. To tighten
the bolts through the specified angles, simply
use a felt-tip pen or similar to mark the
position on the cylinder head of each bolt
head’s radial mark. The second stage then
2A•18 Engine in-car repair procedures
13.29c  Alignment of bolt head radial
marks with cylinder head to establish
tightening angles (arrowed)13.29b  Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - K16 engine13.29a  Cylinder head bolt tightening
sequence - K8 engine
13.27  Refitting the cylinder head
13.26b  . . . so that TOP mark is upwards
and FRONT arrow points to timing belt end13.26a  Fit new cylinder head gasket on
two locating dowels (arrowed) . . .13.20  Checking condition of cylinder head
bolt threads - cylinder head removed
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							tightens each bolt through half a turn so that
the marks face away from each other and the
third stage tightens them through another
half-turn so that all the bolt-head marks will
then align again with their cylinder head
counterparts. If any bolt is overtightened past
its mark, slacken it through 90°, then re-
tighten until the marks align (see illustration).
30Refit and tighten the inlet manifold
support stay bolts, then secure the engine
wiring harness using the clips provided.
31On K16 engines equipped with air
conditioning, refit the alternator mounting
bolts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting. Refit the compressor and alternator
heatshields, tightening their retaining bolts
and nuts securely.
32Connect all disturbed coolant hoses,
securing them in position with their retaining
clips. Reconnect the coolant temperature
sensor wiring.
33Working as described in Chapter 4,
connect or refit all disturbed wiring, hoses and
control cable(s) to the inlet manifold and fuel
system components, then adjust the choke
and or accelerator cable(s).
34Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe
to the manifold and (if applicable) reconnect
the lambda sensor wiring.
35Refit the cylinder head cover, inner timing
cover retaining bolts and camshaft
sprocket(s).
36Refit the spark plugs and distributor cap
then reconnect the battery negative lead.
37Refill the cooling system.
14 Sump- 
removal and refitting
2
Note: It is essential that new bolts of the
Patchlok type are used when refitting the
sump.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Drain the engine oil then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. If the engine
is nearing its service interval when the oil and
filter are due for renewal, it is recommended
that the filter is also removed and a new one
fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then
be replenished with fresh engine oil.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the right-hand roadwheel.
4From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
5Working as described in Chapter 4,
disconnect the exhaust system front pipe
from the manifold and, where fitted,
disconnect or release the lambda sensorwiring so that it is not strained by the weight
of the exhaust.
6Unscrew the three retaining bolts and
remove the flywheel lower cover plate (see
illustration).
7Slacken and remove the bolts securing the
anti-beaming bracket to the engine and
transmission and remove the bracket.
8Progressively slacken the sump retaining
bolts then remove them along with the anti-
beaming bracket support. Make a note of the
correct fitted position of the support and of
the longer bolts at positions 4, 8 and 12 (see
illustration 14.14)to ensure correct  refitment
on reassembly.
9Break the joint by striking the sump with the
palm of the hand, then lower the sump and
withdraw it (see illustration).
10While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to unbolt the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and clean it using a suitable
solvent. Inspect the strainer mesh for signs of
clogging or splitting and renew if necessary.
Refitting
11Clean all traces of gasket from the mating
surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
sump, then use a clean rag to wipe out 
the sump and the engine’s interior. If the oil
pump pick-up/strainer pipe was removed, fit a
new sealing O-ring to its end and refit the
pipe, tightening its retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting.
12If the sump gasket is damaged or shows
signs of deterioration, then it must be
renewed. Fit the gasket to the sump matingsurface so that its 7 locating pegs fit into the
sump holes (see illustration).
13Offer up the sump to the cylinder
block/crankcase then fit the new sump
retaining bolts, not forgetting the anti-
beaming bracket support. Tighten the bolts
finger-tight only.
14Working in the sequence shown (see
illustration), tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque setting.
15Refit the anti-beaming bracket and tighten
the mounting bolts to the specified torque
setting.
16Install the flywheel lower cover plate and
tighten the retaining bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
17Reconnect the exhaust system front pipe
to the manifold and, where necessary,
reconnect the lambda sensor wiring.
18Refit the undercover panel and wheel,
then lower the vehicle to the ground and
reconnect the battery negative lead.
19Replenish the engine oil.15 Oil pump- 
removal and refitting
4
Note:The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled without removing the oil pump
from the vehicle. See Section 16 for details.
Removal
1Remove the crankshaft sprocket and
secure the timing belt clear of the working
Engine in-car repair procedures  2A•19
14.9  Removing the sump14.6  Remove flywheel lower cover plate to
reach sump bolts
14.14  Sump bolt tightening sequence14.12  Sump gasket pegs must engage
with sump mating surface holes
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							area so that it cannot be contaminated with
oil.
2Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. If the engine
is nearing its service interval when the oil and
filter are due for renewal, it is recommended
that the filter is also removed and a new one
fitted. After reassembly, the engine can then
be replenished with fresh engine oil.
3Where necessary, unscrew the alternator
adjuster link retaining nut and unbolt the
engine wiring harness guide retaining screws,
then move the link and guide clear of the oil
pump.
4Unscrew the oil pump retaining bolts,
noting the fitted position of the special bolt,
and withdraw the oil pump (see illustration).
Recover the pump gasket and discard it, then
carefully lever the crankshaft right-hand oil
seal out of the oil pump. The oil seal should be
renewed whenever it is disturbed.
Refitting
5Thoroughly clean the mating faces of the oil
pump and cylinder block/crankcase. Use
grease to stick a new gasket in place.
6Prime the pump before installation by
injecting clean engine oil into it and turning it
by hand.
7Offer up the pump, ensuring that its innergear engages fully on the crankshaft flats,
then push the pump fully into position.
8Refit the pump retaining bolts, ensuring that
the special bolt is refitted to its original
position. Tighten the retaining bolts to the
specified torque setting in the order shown
(see illustration).
9If removed, refit the alternator adjuster link
and the engine wiring harness guide, then
tighten securely the retaining nut and screws.
10Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal.
11Remove all traces of surplus oil then refit
the crankshaft sprocket.
12Replenish the engine oil.
16 Oil pump- dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
4
Note:If oil pump wear is suspected, check the
cost and availability of new parts (only
available in the form of repair kit LQX 10001)
against the cost of a new pump. Examine the
pump as described in this Section and then
decide whether renewal or repair is the best
course of action.
Dismantling
1Remove the oil pump.
2Unscrew the Torx screws (size T25) and
remove the pump cover plate. Discard the
sealing ring.
3Note the identification marks on the outer
rotor then remove both the rotors from the
body.4The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. If this is to be done with the pump in
position and the engine still installed in the
vehicle, it will first be necessary to jack up the
front of the vehicle and remove the right-hand
roadwheel to gain access to the valve (see
illustration).
5To dismantle the valve, unscrew the
threaded plug and recover the valve spring
and plunger (see illustration). Discard the
plug sealing washer.
Inspection
6Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage and renew if necessary. If the
pump body or cover plate is scored or
damaged, then the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
7Using feeler gauge blades of the
appropriate thickness, measure the clearance
between the outer rotor and the pump body,
then between the tips of the inner and outer
rotor lobes (a and b respectively) (see
illustration).
8Using feeler gauge blades and a straight-
edge placed across the top of the pump body
and the rotors, measure the rotor endfloat (c). 
9If any measurement is outside the specified
limits, the complete pump assembly must be
renewed.
10If the pressure relief valve plunger is
scored, or if it does not slide freely in the
pump body bore, then it must be renewed,
using all the components from the repair kit.
11To complete a thorough inspection of the
oil pump components, the sump should be
removed and the oil pump pick-up/strainer
pipe removed and cleaned.
Reassembly
12Lubricate the pump rotors with clean
engine oil and refit them to the pump body,
2A•20 Engine in-car repair procedures
16.7  Checking oil pump rotors for wear -
see text for details
16.5  Oil pressure relief valve assembly
1 Threaded plug
2 Valve spring and plunger
16.4  Unscrewing oil pressure relief valve
threaded plug
15.8  Oil pump bolt tightening sequence
15.4  Alternator adjuster link nut (A) wiring
guide screws (B) oil pump bolts (C) and
special oil pump bolt (D)
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