Land Rover Fitting The Bell Auto S Tdv6 Egr Blanking Kit To A My06 Tdv6 Hse Bellautos Manual

							
Fitting the Bell Auto Services (B-A-S) TDV6 EGR Blanking Kit to a 
2006 model Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE   
Before I describe how I did this, I must first add a disclaimer:  
You do this modification at your own  risk. I won’t be held responsible for 
what I have written here.  
Here’s a picture of the Bell Auto Services TDV6 D3&RRS EGR blanking kit:  
 
The kit replaces the EGR pipes with suitable blanks  fitted to the EGR valves and the butterfly housing. 
You will need all 
4 O-rings – 2 are fitted to each  of the butterfly housing blanks. (the 2 larger components 
in the picture above ).  
Remember, reference to  right hand and left hand is as viewed from the rear of  the car, not from where you are 
stood (at the front facing rear I hope! !). I didn’t want to use the terms ‘nearside’ and ‘offside’ because they 
have different meanings depending on  which side of the road you drive!  
 
Right, let’s get to work.  
First remove the oil filler cap, and then remove the  engine top cover by gently pulling up on each corner.  
Refit the oil filler cap – you don’t want to drop anything down there while you work!    
						

							
 
View of engine with top cover removed – right hand EGR valve shown in inset  
Now unplug the EGR butterfly valve actuator and air box connectors  
 
Butterfly valve connector (lower) and air box connector (upper)  
 
At this point, it’s a good idea to spray some WD40 onto the bolts securi ng the EGR pipes to the valves. 
The bolts get pretty corroded because of where they  are and we don’t want them to shear them off !  
Have a good look at the clip securing the air box to the EGR butterfly valve housing to see how it’s fitted and 
make a note (mental or otherwise) of this. Now remove  the clip. You can do this by inserting a screwdriver in 
the upper looped part of  the clip and twisting.   
						

							
 
Air box to EGR butterfly housing securing clip  
Loosen the jubilee clip securing the air inlet pipe to the right hand side of the air box  then disconnect the pipe 
from the air box.  Note. The jubilee clip is secured to the pipe w ith some sort of retaining clip and will not 
slide down the pipe so just loosen  it enough to clear the lip on the air box allowing you to remove the pipe.  
 
Air inlet pipe to air box jubilee clip   
Completely undo the bolt securing the lower  part of air box and remove the air box.  
Note. Be careful here. This bolt is fairly long and a lthough it can probably be removed completely, to do so 
means pulling it forward into the cooling fan blades. Ther e’s not a lot of room and I felt that I would probably 
drop it so I held it in place with my finge rs so it came away with the air box.   
						

							
 
Air box lower bolt  
Warning. From now on, take great care not to drop anything into the now open EGR butterfly housing. If 
anything ends up in there and the engine  is started, severe damage is likely to result. Not only that, be very 
careful where you put the air box – you ma y not notice if anything falls into it or your kids decide it would 
make a good receptacle for bits of gravel etc.  
 
Air box removed   
Remove the cabling from the right hand and left hand  EGR pipe brackets. On my car, the right hand cables 
were secured with tie-wraps (see uppe r photo below), but the other side was secured with a push-in plug (see 
lower photo). Yours may be different.   Warning. If you have to cut tie-wraps,  try not to cut the cables!   
						

							
 
Tie-wraps – right hand EGR pipe bracket  
Remove the 8 mm bolts securing the right and left hand EGR brackets to  the plastic casings. Note. This is the 
left hand bracket.  
 
Left hand EGR pipe bracket   
Using a suitable screwdriver, unclip the EGR pipe clamps  either side of the EGR butterfly housing. Insert the 
screwdriver under the little  clip across the top of the clamp and twist. Later on we’ll be removing the stub 
pipes and flanges from the butterfly housing when the bolts are easier to get to.   
						

							
 
 EGR pipe clamps 
Things get a little fiddley from now on so you need to  take some precautions. Access to the left hand side 
EGR valve is pretty tight and the right hand side is wo rse. It’s a good idea to stuff some rag down beside the 
valves so if you drop anything (I dro pped the gasket!) it can’t go anywhere.  
Remove the 2x8mm headed bolts securing each EGR pipe  to its valve and remove both pipes. Undo both bolts 
completely and carefully pulled each pipe out, with the  bolts in the pipe flange. You could also put grease in 
your socket and get the bolt out that  way – whatever works for you. Don’t lose  the bolts or the gaskets – you’ll 
need them!  
 
 EGR pipe flange bolts  
Now to fit the blanking plates to the  valves. There is a small ‘indent’ in ea ch plate that matches an indent in 
each pipe flange. Match them up to ensure the indent is in the right place when you fit the blank. Put the 
gasket on the underside of the plate. You can use gasket glue  or exhaust sealing paste if you want. 
Inserted one bolt into the hole that would be nearest the engine block in the first blanking plate and gasket 
then, holding the plate and gasket  in one hand and holding the bolt in pl ace with a grease-filled socket and 
suitable extension in the other hand, Ma neuver the whole lot into place until I was able to get the bolt to drop 
into its hole. Do up that bolt a little  then fit the other one using the grease-filled socket. Tighten both bolts and 
then repeat the procedure for the ot her valve blanking plate. The arrow in  the photo below shows the indent in 
the left hand EGR valve. Just to the right side of the  red circle you can see the dip-stick tube – there’s a bit of  
						

							
insulation that I had to fold back and tuck behind the dip-stick tube to k eep it out of the way. Don’t forget to 
put it back to where it was.  
 
 EGR valve blank fitted – indent arrowed!   
Once you have fitted both blanking plates, whatever you do,  don’t forget to remove the rags you stuffed down 
beside the valves or your precious  D3 is likely to go up in flames when you take it for a test run! 
 
Right, now for removing the bu tterfly from the actuator shaft!  
First thing to do is remove the long bolt securing the but terfly housing (circled in yellow in the photo below). 
Once that’s out, carefully raise the fr ont of the butterfly housing. You should find that although it’s a bit stiff, 
the bits of the ‘Y’ duct circ led in the photo below will swiv el at the points where they connect into the rest of 
the ducting. Don’t raise it too far or you will snap  the lugs on the connector (arrowed in the photo)  
 
 Raising the butterfly housing. It will swivel where circled but don’t go much or you’ll break the plastic that is holding the 
connector(arrowed) to th e back of the ‘Y’ shaped duct like wot I did!  
Now remove the 4 TORX screws securing the actuator to the butterfly housing a nd remove the actuator.   
						

							
 
 Removing the actuator. The little black thing (circled) is the bit that links the actuator arm to the butterfly spindle.  
OK, now to get the spindle out of the butterfly! Inserted a screwdriver und er the black part on the end of the 
spindle – the part the actuator arm co nnects to (arrowed in the picture abov e) used that as a lever to pull the 
spindle out of the butterfly. It’s a tig ht fit so you will need to use a bit of force to get it moving .Be careful 
though – the edges of the butterfly housing where the actuat or fits are fragile and may crack if to much force 
is used. There is a cut-out portion at the bottom of the housing.  
As the spindle is withdrawn, it becomes less of a tight f it in the butterfly and you will eventually be able to 
complete pulling it out by hand – holdi ng on to the butterfly with the other hand of course and pulling that 
out of the front of the housing.  
Once the butterfly disc is removed refit the spindl e to the housing and replace the actuator, ensuring you 
connect the little black link arm to  the protrusion on the end of the spindl e. You should find that as you locate 
the actuator into its fitted position,  the little black link arm sort of folds up toward you into the actuator 
housing, pushing the spindle into what  would have been the butterfly valve open position. Secure the actuator 
with the 4 TORX screws. Remember you are screwing these into plastic so don’t over-tighten them!  
Now remove the TORX screws secu ring the two stub pipes to the butterfly housing and remove the stub 
pipes, ensuring that their O-ring seal s don’t get left behind in the housing.  
 
 Removing the stub pipes. Remove the TORX screws and pull the pipes out. The O-ring seals might get left behind in the housing   
– dig them out as well.  
Here’s a picture of one of the stub pipes.   
						

							
 
Look at the gunk on it! This is what the EGR valves are making your engine eat on a daily basis! Ugh!  
The inside of the butterfly housing looks very much like this too. !!!  
These stub-pipes also present quite a large obstruction to  the air flow to the engine. When fitted, they meet 
in the middle of the air intake duct. The engine will be  able to breathe much more freely now they are out!  
Fit 2 O-ring seals to each of the 2 blanks from the kit, and then fit each blank to the butterfly housing, securing 
them with the TORX screws. Again, don’t over tighten them – you are screwing them into plastic don’t  forget!   
						

							
 
Stub pipe blank fitted.  
Push the butterfly housing back down  into place and secure it in place with the long bolt (see photo on page 
8).  
Refit the air box. holding the  long bolt that secures the bottom of the  air box in place with your fingers while 
you position the air box and push it onto the front of the butterfly housing. Scre w the long bolt in a bit to get it 
started, and then refit the clip that  secures the air box to the butterfly  housing. Ensure that you fit it the same 
way round that it was fitted before (you did make a not e of this on page 3 didn’t you?) and that it locates 
correctly in the gr oove in the air box.  
Refit the inlet pipe to the ri ght hand side of the air box a nd tighten the jubilee clip.  
Now tighten the air box lower securing bolt.  
You can re attach the cables with some  cable ties to the old egr securing bolts. 
 
 
Reconnect the EGR actuator plug and the air box plug.  
Have a good look round to ensure you ha ven’t left anything lying around the engine (especially any old rags