Land Rover Discovery 3 Multimedia Installation Manual
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A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 10 I threaded the wiring behind the big grey connector through to the front area, left of the gearbox selector and to the left of the left locating slats for the plastic tray at the front end of the console. Remember I tapped into the driver’s side power socket using the headrest sc reens conn ector but you can use snaplocks instead: (my use of the power connector in the front right socket, wiring coming out from the left...) (...or use snaplocks straight on the connector wires – pics from my DVD installation) If you want to access the front power sockets, you will need to remove the H‐ panel by pulling firmly at its lower end (lower red arrows). Then pull the upper end towards the cabin as well and it should pop off. If your fingers don’t fit or can’t grab the bac k of the pa nel, you can (at your own risk!!!) use an aid (in the form of a plastic wedge or flat screwdriver with the business end wrapped in electrical tape). (H‐panel in place...) (...and removed)
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 11 It is almost certain one or more of the metal retaining clips will spring off, hopefully somewhere you can retrieve them. If for some reason you cannot (and I would advise to have some spare if you tinker with the Disco anyway), the Land Rover part number for them is FYC500040. (this is where the clips should be, they’re on now) (this is the clip in question) You will then need to unscrew the two torx screws that hold the sockets panel to the dash and pull back very strongly as again the clips holding it back are very firm (this is assuming you have already removed the trim around the gearlever – if not the power socket pa nel will not com e off). At this point it is strongly advisable to check that everything works before re ‐assembling the centre console and trim, hence we are going straight for the next step leaving everything as is. Back under the passenger seat from the behind it, you should be able to clearl y see the fa ctory SatNav DVD unit with three connectors to the back: dark blue, light blue and grey. The one to disconnect is the middle light blue one: Plug all the cables in the package described on page 2 into the GVIF connectors (including the IR sensor, you will need this to cali br ate the unit) and observe the GVIF cable carefully: there is a male and female connector, one goes in the DVD the other in the connector you have just unplugged (see second pic above). Once you’ve secure the GVIF cable, get a video source for testing ready and set the DIP switches on the GV IF unit as follows:
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 12 DOWN: disabled, UP: enabled 1. RGB input Mode: ON : Skipping RGB Mode, OFF : RGB Display............................................. DOWN 2. A/V1 mute: ON : Skipping A/V 1, OFF : A/V1 Display............................................................. UP 3. A/V2 mute: ON : Skipping A/V 2, OFF : A/V2 Display............................................................. UP 4: A/V3 mute: ON : Skipping A/V 3, OFF : A/V3 Display..... ... ..................................................... UP 5: To select car model: ON: Lexus, OFF: Landrover.................................................................... UP 6: To select original NAVI: ON : For using original NAVI, OFF : Not use original NAVI................ DOWN 7: Rear Mode: ON : External Rear Camera, OFF : OEM Rear Camera......................................... UP 8: N.C............................................................................................................................ ............... n/a These settings have work ed for my uni t. I am aware other units have different settings with regards to switches 5‐7, so please try changing these if the table above does not work for you. I am using all three AV inputs, for those that don’t require some or all, simply switch to DOWN. We are only going to test the AV in puts at this stage (no t the reversing camera), so plug your video source (yellow male RCA connector usually) to the yellow female RCA connector of AV1 and switch it on. Turn the key in the ignition to position II (or start the engine if you have c o ncerns over draining the battery) and set the screen to SatNav (you don’t need to accept the disclaimer). The GVIF by nature only works when SatNav is selected; it will not work if you are in the 4x4 Info screen or the Settings screen. Using either the IR remote (put the battery in!) or th e hardwired selector (also see “Operating the GVIF” section below), select AV1 and ensure the image is displayed on the car’s screen. Assuming it is, go back to the unit, unplug the yellow connector and repeat the procedure for AV2 and AV3. I used my old Zen Vision for test ing: The AV loom also has two video and one audio output, you may also want to test these while you are at it (I used the main unit from a Dogcam camera I have). Assuming all works ok, switch the engine/ignition off, open the tailgate for Part II and let the car go back to “sleep”...
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 13 Part II – Installing the Reversing Camera Tools required: cable stripper, crimping tool, pliers, set of torx screwdrivers, Phillips screwdriver set, 10mm socket, electrical tape, heatshrinking tube and about 2 hours for this part. It is always good if a multimeter is to hand, at least for continuity testing. Parts required: 5m twin 2mm cable (for extending the ca mera’s and GVIF power cable), 4x snaplock connectors (red which fit 1.1 ‐2.6mm cables), cable ties, WD40 or similar lubricant. Oh, and more than a few bandaids for when hands are cut while threading wires! There are obviously a number of cameras one can use for this application, whether bumper moun ted, tailgate handl e mounted, suction cup mounted or anything that fits your purpose. I have opted for a tailgate handle camera, as this is in my view the neatest looking one and as close to OEM as can get (the D4 has its reversing camera in the same location). As such, I have had to dis m antle the tailgate trim to thread the wiring to the GVIF under the passenger seat. There are a couple of suppliers who sell D3 specific units, which replace one of the numberplate lights with a new moulding, housing the camera and the light (no illumination is lost). He re are the box conten ts of the one I got: From left to right, power cable (only 150cm of it!), composite video cable (about 500cm) and camera unit itself (there’s no light bulb holder, the existing one fits in the aperture provided). From having measured the tailgate and broadly thought of the ro uting the cables would take, it was obvious the power cable needed to be extended. The additional restriction is that the rubber tubing it will thread through at the top of the tailgate is fairly narrow, so I couldn’t have used connectors or snaplocks to do the job. So I went the le ss elegant way of twistin g the supplied power cable’s bare wires
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 14 in with the strands of my extension, tinning the connection and using electrical tape and heatshrink to secure everything better. You need about 130cm of extension: By using thicker cable you also increase the diameter used by the snaplock we’ll use to tap into the reversing light +ve. If you go this route, it is advisable to ch eck your conne ctions by doing a continuity test: put one end of the multimeter (set at continuity) inside the hole of black connector at the end of the supplied wire (+ve) making sure there’s contact with the inner walls and with the other end of the multi m eter touch the end of the red strand of the extension. Do the same with the black end, but using the outer visible metal section of the connector. If there’s no continuity (check your meter’s manual for how to set it up), the joint is faulty and needs re ‐doi ng. With the u pper section of the tailgate open, unscrew the only Philips screw securing the lower trim first: There are 11 clips all around holding the trim; pull out the weather seal carefully from both corners only (three rubber studs on each corner – see above) to give you levera ge for removing the clips and gently prise them with your fingers or a plastic tool; remove the plastic surround around the latch to release the panel completely. (plastic latch cover, clips location and panel removed)
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 15 Put it to one side (not in the boot, you’ll need room to move in there soon!). Next remove the upper trim panel of the tailgate by again gently prising the 4 clips that hold it in place: (panel revoved, clips shown and space underneath) Last, remove the left side trim panel once again held in place by 4 clips (no need to remove the right hand side one): (panel revoved, clips shown and space underneath) Sitting in the boot, it is now time to remove the ceiling panel that holds the rear light. Again, this is only clipped in place, pull it down to release the seven clips holding it and disconnect (just pull out) the connector to the light. Finally, pull some of the weatherstrip ba ck from the left D‐pillar to facilitate cable threading as shown in the last picture: (clips location) (light connector disconnected) (pull from as far forward as you can) Now to remove the tailgate handle; this is held in place by four T25 torx screws at the lower end and three 10mm bolts recessed in the tailgate itself. There’s a single grey connector catering for both the numberplate lights and the upper tailgate opening button/handle. Disconnect this before proceeding by pinching th e retaining latch and pull ing apart.
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 16 (4 torx at the top and 3 bolts bottom) (handle and connector removed) (from this view, it’s the left light to remove) The camera I chose has an aperture to refit the existing bulb holder from the right light (when the handle is fitted to the car, left as you look at the picture above having the handle facing down). To remove the bulb holder, twist counterclockwise holding the holder and connector together and pu ll up . Once free, you need to prise out the existing white light enclosure, either by pushing it from the inside or, like I did, prising it with a plastic knife from the right: (bulb holder out) (prise this end if you chose to do so) The camera moulding has cuts that will only accept the existing bulb holder in one (correct) position, but I found the cut were slightly smaller than the corresponding notches on the bulb holder. A little gentle filing of the cuts and the job was done! Thread the camera wires and connectors through th e opening and fit the enclosure, left side first. (some filing was needed here) (and then it’s a perfect fit) Put the handle to one side for now, the trickiest part is next: we need to thread both the RCA signal cable (yellow connectors) and the camera’s –now extended – power cable from the handle location, around the left side of the rear window, through the rubber tube at the top of the tailgate openi ng, down to the rear light pan el we removed, left through the ceiling lining, down behind the D ‐pillar and behind the jack compartment! Here, the two cables will go their own way, the power through an opening to the rear left light cluster, the RCA cable towards the fr on t of the car, behind the left boot panel, to the GVIF. It’s also a good idea at this point to thread through the extension of the GVIF reverse sensing wire (grey), as the cable provided (attached to the connector described earlier) is only about 100cm. You’ll need an exte nsion of around 180cm for this.
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 17 Take one end of either cable (the procedure is the same for both broadly), and pull about 15 ‐20cm out to where the handle will be refitted. Then go to the top of the tailgate and unhook the rubber grommets at the end of the tube from both the top of the tail gate and the bodywork to give you some more room to work. I also found it us eful to disconnect the black and grey connectors that are there, in the body side of the existing harness. (RCA cable out to handle...) (...rubber and connectors removed) I wrapped the other end of the RCA cable with some electrical tape as the outer spades would probably catch the rubber and twisted the tape to created an extended “cone” on which I then sprayed some WD40 to make edging through the TIGHT rubber tube a little easier. Make sure you have th e cabl e where it should be and you start threading correctly before you go at it, won’t be funny if you have to remove and start over! Sprayed some WD40 on the power extension as well and repeated the process. (this is the newly threaded cabling, gently pull most into the boot area – the power cable connection will eventually end up almost inside the rubber tube) Gently pull most of the excess cabling into the boot area through the rubber tubing, leaving broadly enough to go around the rear window to the tailgate handle. Connect the yellow male RCA end to the female yellow RCA connector of the camera and the black power connector to the red conn ector of the camera. I use d some heatshrink to secure those connections for good measure: I chose to test at this stage, just to be sure. If you chose to as well, temporarily refit the handle (the outer two 10mm bolts will do), refit the grey connector, refit the black an d gr ey connectors in the roof lining panel if you disconnected them and then throw the cables over the second row seats to reach the GVIF under the passenger seat. I used the power socket at the rear of the centre console to temporarily power the camera and one of the AV in puts to test the image.
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 18 Happy it all worked, some tidying of the cables is now in order, so go back to the tailgate, make sure the cables at the handle are all clear of the bodywork (I used a cable tie to secure a length including the heatshrunk connectors inside the handle), and refit the han dle f ully (4 torx and 3 10mm bolts). Now route the two (video and power) cables to the lower left corner of the window, secure with a cable tie, and move to the top left corner, securing with another cable tie there too. (cables and gasket clear of bodywork...) (...cable routed to lower left corner...) (...and upper left corner) I wrapped some electrical tape where the cable could rub on the antenna and the bodywork to avoid chaffing from vibrations (though in retrospect this looks rather unlikely). Note I tend to use white cable ties when hidden to differentiate from OEM ones for easy removal if needed: (highlight of potential chaffing spots – add thickness by means of electrical tape) Then it’s just a case of refitting the rubber grommets on the tube (it is IMPORTANT to be sure the grommets have sat properly to avoid water or moisture from accumulating between the roof and headlining) and refitting the tailgate trim in the reverse order of removal. Make sure however you fit the rubber we at herstrip BEFORE refitting the large tailgate trim panel (the one with the 11 clips and screw) to ensure the latter sits properly on the rubber. Your car should now look something like this:
A www.disco3.co.uk resource Page 19 It’s now time to thread the remaining cabling through to under the passenger seat. Start by feeding the cables through the headlining to the left and pull out through the opening you made by pulling the weatherstrip off the D ‐pillar; then pull out the boot trim, enough to allow your hand through (o ne cli p should pop) and feed through there, pulling all the excess out through the rear left cubby: Tuck the cable inside the D ‐pillar and behind the boot trim, being careful not to catch the clips and refit the boot trim, wetherstrip and light panel in the roof. The n feed th e video cable only (leave the power in the cubby hole for now) through to behind the boot trim (my arms are not too long, but could reach to half way at least), and feed/push the end under it where the wheelarch is, then under again at the corner behi nd the seat and pull the excess through the panel just at the rear of the door, tucking the cable under the boot trim along the way: