Land Rover Discovery 3 Bodsy S Brake Bible Bodsworth Manual

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 21 of 36 
 
so I start with a few sharp taps on the end of the ratchet to get the screw moving.  
You then need to remove the calliper bracket. 
There are two 21mm Bi-Hex bolts. These will be very stiff and 
require a breaker bar to undo.   
For the top bolt, you 
could also remove the 
cable bracket if you need 
to gain better access, 
just be careful with the 
wheel speed sensor 
cable. 
 
 
 
 
 
Bottom Bolt should be clear. 
With the Bracket 
removed, KEEP THE 
BOLTS, these do not get 
replaced in a disk kit. 
The T50 screw can be removed, along with the brake disk. The 
disk MAY need to be gently tapped off with a rubber mallet or 
similar. 
   
 
 
 
 
 
  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 22 of 36 
 
You can see the new and old Disk side by side. The old disk has a very prominent ‘lip’ on the inside 
of the disks. This can sometimes be removed as long as the width of the disk is still within 
tolerance (27mm minimum for Front).  
 
Put the new disk on, remembering to align the Torx 
Screw hole onto the hub. When re-fitting the screw, 
Do not put thread lock on it as it will be secure 
enough. (pic shows threadlock ON) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Using the Torque Wrench, set it for 35Nm and tighten 
the Torx screw. 
Tap the Disk on fully and check the torque setting again. 
You then need to re-fit the Calliper carrier bracket. Again, I 
applied some medium thread loc before re-fitting.  
 
Set the Torque Wrench to 275Nm. Note that this is very high and 
most ‘normal’ torque wrenches will only go up to 200Nm. 
  
 When both bolts have been re-fitted and the 
torque set, continue to refit the brake pads and 
calliper. See section  4. How to change the Brake 
Pads - Front  
 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 23 of 36 
 
8. How to change the Brake Disks – Rear 
Follow the instructions in section 5 to remove the brake pads. 
Tools Required to Change Rear Brake Disks (See page 5 for tool matrix) 
Pliers 
Brake Cleaner 
Spanners, 13mm, 15mm 
Rubber Mallet 
Flat Blade Screwdriver 
Copper Grease 
Optional Ratchet 
15mm Bi-Hex (12pt) socket 
Socket 13mm  
Torque Wrench 
Strong Wire or String 
T50 Torx Bit 
Breaker Bar 
32mm Socket (1-1/4”) 
Torch 
Before removing the rear Brake disks, please carry out this sequence to put the Electronic Park 
Brake into Service Mode. Ensure brake pads and calliper is fitted to all wheels. 
In the car with ignition in Position II, press the brake pedal three times and hold the pedal down. 
Push down on the EPB switch for 3-5 seconds.  
Go to the main fuse box in the engine bay and remove FL8 fuse 30A (pink Fuse) this will ensure 
that the EPB is not accidentally re-engaged. 
Following the first section on how to change the brake pads, lift and remove the road wheels. 
Discard the brake pads and ensure you fit new brake pads when you fit new brake disks. See How 
to change the Brake Pads - Rear 
Fully remove the calliper and ensure that it is 
supported so that you do not put too much 
strain on the 
brake pipe 
components. I 
used a piece of 
strong wire and 
tied it to form a 
loop. As per 
picture. 
You then need to remove the calliper bracket. 
There are two 15mm Bi-Hex bolts. These will be very stiff and 
require a breaker bar to undo.   
  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 24 of 36 
 
 
With the Bracket removed, KEEP THE BOLTS, these do not get replaced in a disk kit. 
Using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the plastic 
plug to reveal a hole.  
Then find the Torx Screw (Size T50) on the face of the 
disk.  
    
Clear out any brake dust or mud from the screw head. Brake Dust 
cleaner is ideal.  
Insert the Torx and gently tap it in with a hammer to ensure it is 
fully home.  
Then undo the Screw carefully. I generally tend to very slightly 
tighten the screw to break any seal that has formed and then undo the 
screw.  The hub may still move, so I start with a few sharp taps on the 
end of the ratchet to get the screw 
moving.  
Turn the disk until the hole (that you 
removed the plastic plug from) is at the 
bottom (Right side is upside down from 
Left side). (you could use a torch to 
help)  Behind the disk, it looks like 
this:-   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 25 of 36 
 
Using the flat blade screwdriver through the hole, release the ratchet one click at a time until it is 
fully undone. (move in the direction AWAY from the EPB spring to release and Towards to tighten up) 
Then the T50 screw can be removed, along with the brake disk. The disk MAY need to be gently 
tapped off with a rubber mallet or similar. 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
You can see the new and old Disk side by side. The 
old disk has a very prominent ‘lip’ on the inside of 
the disks. This can sometimes be removed as long as 
the width of the disk is still within tolerance(Rear 
disk is 
17mm 
minimum)  
 
You will 
more than likely need to give the disk a quick clean with 
brake cleaner to remove any oils that may be on the 
braking faces of the disk.  
Put the new disk on, remembering to align the Torx 
Screw hole onto the hub. When re-fitting the screw, do 
not put thread lock on as it will be secure enough. 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 26 of 36 
 
Using the Torque Wrench, set it for 35Nm and tighten the Torx screw. Tap the Disk on fully and 
check the torque setting again. 
You then need to re-fit the Calliper carrier bracket. Again, I 
applied some 
medium thread 
loc before re-
fitting.  
 
 
Set the Torque Wrench to 115Nm.  
 
When both bolts have been re-fitted and the 
torque set, continue to refit the brake pads and calliper. See How to change the Brake Pads - 
Rear  
 
 
Once completed on the right side, do the same for the left side. When both sides are 
completed, ensure that you re-fit the FL8 fuse, otherwise your EPB will not function.  
Ensure you carry out How to adjust the Electronic Park Brake 
 
 
 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 27 of 36 
 
9. How to adjust the Electronic Park Brake 
The Electronic Park Brake is operated by a pair of brake shoes on the inside of the rear brake disks. 
The manufacturer recommends that you strip, clean and adjust the EPB after 50 miles of off road conditions 
or arduous use. 
If you have a loud screeching noise when the EPB is applied, then often an adjustment of the Electronic Park 
Brake will fix this. 
This procedure MUST be carried out when you change your brake disks and/or brake shoes. If the pads are worn below 
the limit, you should replace the pads as well as go through the Electronic Parking Brake Shoe Bedding In Procedure. 
Tools Required to adjust the Electronic Park Brake(See page 5 for tool matrix) 
Flat Blade Screwdriver  
32mm Socket (1-1/4”) 
Torque Wrench 
Allen Key/Hex (4mm) 
Ensure that your rear wheels are off the ground and the car is on axle stands or a car lift. Remove 
the rear road wheels. 
For a Manual, you dont want the EPB to apply automatically, you should Push the EPB button 
DOWN whilst switching off the ignition and removing the key. 
For an Auto, just dont apply it. 
The above should be fine if you are leaving the disks on and just adjusting the EPB. 
If youre removing the disks for a full clean, then Id recommend putting it into service mode and 
removing the 30a fuse as per section 8 How to Change Your Brake Disks – Rear of the bible.  
There are two adjustment parts to the EPB.  
Using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the plastic lug 
to reveal a hole. Turn the disk using the 32mm Hub 
Socket until the hole (that you removed the plastic 
plug from) is aligned with the first adjustment point.  
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 28 of 36 
 
Behind the disk, it looks like this (Left side. Right side will be upside down to this) :-  
There are two adjustment points. One is 
the 4mm Hex bolt(Allen Key) (circled 
Yellow). The other is the ratchet (hidden at 
the bottom, circled in Red)  
Rotate the disk again until the hole is in 
line with the ratchet adjuster (Red) (The 
direction of rotation must always be 
forward). Using the flat blade screwdriver 
through the hole, tighten the ratchet until 
it is tight. (move in the direction AWAY from 
the EPB spring to release and Towards to 
tighten up) 
Then take your torque wrench and 32mm 
socket and set it for between 40 and 90Nm.  
Place it on the hub nut and if the disk turns, you need to add one click at a time to the ratchet 
with the screwdriver until the required torque is reached (I set my torque to 60Nm for this 
exercise). When the Torque is reached, then you need to release the ratchet by exactly 8 clicks 
back. 
 
Finally, rotate the disk until the hole is in line with the Hex socket (Yellow)  and undo this half a 
turn. Gently tap the disk with a rubber faced mallet around the shoe area. This will release the 
tension and it should naturally move if it needs to. Tighten the Hex socket back up to 6Nm.  
When that is completed (on both rear wheels), replace the plastic lug and re-fit the road wheels. 
If they are new disks or pads, please complete Section 11 How to Bed In New EPB Shoes. 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 29 of 36 
 
10. How to fit new EPB Shoes  
(See page 5 for Tool Matrix) Remove the brake Disks (see 8. How to Change the Brake Disks – Rear). 
You should replace your EPB Shoes when the lining material is down to 2mm.  
Images shown here are for the Right side rear. 
With the Brake Disks removed, release the knurled 
adjuster and return spring. 
Ensure your replacement shoes come with new 
springs and hold down springs before discarding the 
old springs (otherwise give the old ones a good clean). 
KEEP the knurled adjuster, clean and lubricate it 
with copper grease. 
The shoes consist of a Primary and a Secondary 
shoe. The Primary shoe is the right hand shoe (Pic is 
of whole Rear Right side).  
Remove the hold down spring on the Primary shoe. 
 
 
Use a screwdriver to press the hold down spring 
and your other hand to the back of the hub to 
keep the retaining pin in place.  
 
 
Remove the spring and pin (you should have 
new ones in your shoe kit) 
 
 
 
Pivot the Primary shoe so that the spreader plate (hidden behind the hub) 
and return spring are released. This can be tricky, but it’s a case of getting 
it in the right position.  
Remove the Primary shoe.   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 30 of 36 
 
 
Remove the Hold Down spring 
and pin on the secondary shoe.  
 
 
 
 
Unhook parking brake retaining spring. (see top insert)  
Release the Parking brake Cable and remove the 
secondary shoe. (see bottom 
insert) 
 
 
 
 
 
Clean all the Brake contact rubbing points and apply copper 
grease to all the raised rubbing points (6 in total, 2 not in view). 
Install the new secondary 
brake shoe. First install 
the Parking Brake cable 
and attach the retaining 
spring. Ensure that the 
spring is not twisted as 
this may affect it’s 
operation.  
 
Insert the new Hold down spring and pin. (you might 
need three hands for this one!) One suggestion is to use 
a small cable tie to compress the spring before use & 
then once installed, simply cut and then remove the 
small cable tie