Land Rover Discovery 3 Bodsy S Brake Bible Bodsworth Manual

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 11 of 36 
 
You should also lift the Brake nipple protector and 
uncouple the sensor from it.  
It should be able to be dangled down behind the hub. 
Using a 13mm Spanner on the outside Calliper bolt, you 
also need a 17mm spanner to hold the inner nut. It was 
quite a tight fit for the 17mm spanner to fit in (width of 
spanner). 
Undo the lower calliper bolt and discard (you should get 
new bolts with your replacement OEM kit, but CHECK FIRST) Only the outside bolt will come out, the inner 
bolt should move freely.  
Then do the same for the top bolt, although after loosening the bolt, swing the brake calliper up to reveal the 
brake pads. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Remove the Brake Pads (these pads still had plenty of life, but I changed 
them as I was changing the disks) 
Note Calliper had been fully removed 
in these next pics, this is not 
necessary for just replacing the front 
pads. 
Remove the Metal shims (one 
bottom and one top) 
  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 12 of 36 
 
This is what you should expect from an OE set of Front 
Brake Pads.  
2 replacement Bolts (the Blue is thread loc) 
2 replacement Shims (you can re-use old Shims, but best 
to have replacements) 
2 OE Brake Pads  
 
 
Fit the new Shims to the Calliper holder (note new disks had been fitted before 
this). The Shims just press on & click into place. 
 
Before fitting the Brake 
Pads, ensure you use a 
liberal coating of Copper Grease to the top and bottom 
lugs of the brake pad to keep the brake pads easily 
moving. Applied by tube in 
this case. 
 
 
Re-fit the brake pads with the friction surface facing inwards. Be sure that there is 
no grease on the front of the brake pad.  If the pads have a sticky label, ensure 
that this is on the Non Piston side of the calliper. 
With the brake Calliper, spray plenty of brake cleaner on the calliper and then use 
a Calliper Piston Retraction tool or other home made device to retract the brake 
callipers into the body. This should be done as squarely as possible. (NB. It may 
require you to remove some of the Brake Fluid from the Master Cylinder, but I 
didn’t need to when I did all four wheels). 
Re-Fit the Brake Calliper into position and re-fit the bottom calliper bolt that came 
with the Brake pad kit using the 13mm and 17mm spanner. Then remove the top calliper bolt (discard it) and 
replace with the other bolt from the Brake pad kit.  
 Tighten the bolts to 35Nm using the torque wrench and 13mm socket.  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 13 of 36 
 
With the Brakes all attached, ensure that the Brake Pad Wear Sensor 
has the metal clip on it before 
pushing gently back into 
position. Ensure that the brake 
Bleed Nipple is covered with the 
rubber cover again. 
 
Repeat for the opposite side. 
 Note Brake Wear Sensor is only 
on one side of each axle. 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 14 of 36 
 
5. How to change the Brake Pads – Rear 
Ensure that your vehicle is securely supported on Axel stands before undertaking any work underneath it. 
Ensure that any wheels remaining in contact with the ground are securely chocked to avoid any unnecessary 
movement. 
Change Rear Brake Pads (See page 5 for tool matrix) 
Pliers 
Brake Cleaner 
Spanners, 13mm, 15mm 
Copper Grease 
Optional Ratchet 
 
Socket 13mm 
Torque Wrench 
 
The Discovery 3 has a single piston calliper brake system for the rear. It relies on hydraulic pressure from the 
braking system to push brake Pads onto the rotating Brake Disk. Over time, the Brake pads will wear down, 
eventually causing a loud scrapping noise as the brake pad backing plate grinds into the steel disk. If you have 
reached this point, then in all likelihood, you will need to replace the Brake disks as well as the pads. 
The rear right side disk also has a brake wear sensor. If you have NOT broken through this sensor, then it can 
be safely re-used. Otherwise you need to ensure you have a replacement at 
the time of fitting. 
Jack the car up (see Axle Stands & Jacking Points) Remove the rear road 
wheels. 
Once you have the road wheels removed, then you can remove the Brake 
pad wear sensor. (Rear Right Side) 
Use a pair of pliers to carefully extract the 
sensor. You may find that the brass contact in 
the sensor is also removed. Providing that you 
don’t lose it or it doesn’t ping off into a deep 
hidden crevice, then it should be able to be 
easily re-fitted. 
You should pull the sensor directly backwards 
until it is removed. 
The sensor without the brass contact (which has remained on the brake pad) can 
be seen in the Front Brake Pads section as well as the brass contact which needs to 
be re-fitted or the whole sensor replaced.   
  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 15 of 36 
 
 
Using a 13mm Spanner on the outside Calliper bolt, you also need a 
15mm spanner to hold the inner nut. It was quite a tight fit for the 
15mm spanner to fit in (width of spanner). 
Undo the lower calliper bolt and discard (you should get new bolts 
with your replacement kit, but CHECK FIRST) Only the outside bolt 
will come out, the inner bolt should move freely.  
Then do the same for the top bolt, although after loosening the bolt, 
swing the brake calliper up to reveal the brake pads. 
Remove the Brake Pads (these pads still had plenty of life, 
but I changed them as I was changing the disks) Note Calliper 
had been fully removed in these next pics, this is not 
necessary for just replacing the front pads. 
Remove the 
Metal shims 
(one bottom 
and one top) 
 
 
 
 
This is what you should expect from an OE set of Rear 
Brake Pads (pic shows front pads).  
2 replacement Bolts (the Blue is thread loc) 
2 replacement Shims (you 
can re-use old Shims, but 
best to have replacements) 
2 OE Brake Pads  
 
Fit the new Shims to the Calliper holder (note new disks had been fitted before 
this). The Shims just press on & click into place.  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 16 of 36 
 
 
 
Before fitting the Brake Pads, 
ensure you use a liberal coating 
of Copper Grease to the top and 
bottom lugs of the brake pad to 
keep the brake pads easily 
moving. Applied by tube in this 
case. 
Re-fit the brake pads with the friction surface facing inwards. Be sure 
that there is no grease on the front of the brake pad.  
Note the chamfered edge on 
the pads showing at the 
bottom to assist with bedding 
in.  N.B. There are some new 
style pads also available that do 
NOT have the Chamfer, but 
have a sticky label. Remove the sticky label cover. The sticky label side 
should be on the NON Piston side of the calliper. 
With the brake Calliper, spray plenty of brake cleaner on the calliper 
and then use a Calliper Piston Retraction tool or other home made 
device to retract the brake callipers into the body. This should be done as squarely as possible. (NB. It may 
require you to remove some of the Brake Fluid from the Master Cylinder,  but I didn’t need to when I did all 
four wheels). 
Re-Fit the Brake Calliper into position and 
re-fit the bottom calliper bolt that came 
with the Brake pad kit using the 13mm 
and 15mm spanner. Then remove the top 
calliper bolt (discard it) and replace with 
the other bolt from the Brake pad kit.  
Tighten the bolts to 35Nm using the 
torque wrench and 13mm socket. 
 
  
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 17 of 36 
 
 
With the Brakes all attached, ensure that the Brake Pad Wear Sensor (Right side rear) has the metal clip on it 
before pushing gently back into position. 
Rear left side      Rear right Side 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 18 of 36 
 
6. How to change the Brake Pad Sensors – Front and Rear 
There are 2 sensors, one on front left side and one rear right side (UK Drivers side). 
 
Front Sensor (See page 5 for tool matrix) 
Follow the first section of the 4. Changing Brake Pads Front. 
Up to the point where you have removed the Brake Pad Wear sensor at the Pad end. Check that it has 
worn through the plastic and that you definitely need to replace it. 
 
If you look at the new one in the bag itll give a good hint as to what 
youre looking for.  
As you remove the old sensor cable, replace it with the new one.  This will 
help to ensure that you follow the correct route. Ensure you clip the cable 
into the same places as the old one. 
 
Once you get up near the top 
of the wheel arch youll see 
the cable goes behind the 
plastic interior trim of the 
arch.  
It’s much easier if you undo 
or pull out the three nearest 
plastic clips(removed) that hold the plastic arch in place.  
The arch is very strong, so don’t be afraid to bend it over & 
out of your way as much as possible.  
 
A piece of wood was used in this case to keep the plastic out of the way.  
 
Now LOOK CAREFULLY at the connector on the new one,  youll 
see at the far end the clip mechanism that you need to release to 
get the old one off,  DONT just pull, youll break things.. 
 
Once its off then plug in the new one. 
 
 Well done,  now you can put it all back together, if you didn’t snap 
any of the screw thingy’s then put them all back 
 
 
Wheel back on and were ready for the rear sensor. 
 
 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 19 of 36 
 
Rear Sensor 
  
Follow the first section of the 5. Changing Brake Pads Rear. 
 
Up to the point where you have removed the Brake Pad Wear sensor at the Pad end. Check that it has 
worn through the plastic end and that you definitely need to replace it. 
 
If you look at the new one in the bag itll give a good hint as to what youre looking for.  
As you remove the old sensor cable, replace it with the new one.  This will help to ensure that you follow 
the correct route. Ensure you clip the cable into the same places as the old one. 
 
 
The difference with the rear sensor, is that the 
cable DOESNT go up inside the car,  it follows 
round the back of the suspension drum and 
clips in just behind,  you can reach it from the 
left side of the drum. 
 
 
By the end you should have maybe a couple of 
bloody knuckles as well as a nice scratch up 
your right arm… 
 
 
Thanks to Ade & Richard for supplying the sensor pics & Ade for the initial write up. 
 
N.B. If you DON’T want to have brake pad wear sensors enabled, then simply cut the old sensor at an 
appropriate point between the end of the sensor and the connector and join the two resulting wires 
together. Seal with waterproof tape or sealant and tuck up out of the way.  It will think that the circuit is 
completed and therefore that the brakes are OK. 
If you take this option, you must ensure that you regularly check your brake pads and disks and take any 
necessary remedial action as the car will no longer warn you of imminent wear. 
 
 
 
   
						

							©  Copyright  Ian  Bodsworth  2011.  All  descriptions  and  photo’s  contained  within  remain  the  property  of  the  Author. 
Commercial images of products with copyrights acknowledged. E&OE. - Created by Bodsy – Disco3Club  
    Page 20 of 36 
 
7. How to change the Brake Disks – Front 
Follow the instructions in section 4 to remove the brake pads. 
Tools Required to Change Front Brake Disks (See page 5 for tool matrix) 
Pliers 
Brake Cleaner 
Spanners, 13mm, 17mm 
Rubber Mallet 
Copper Grease 
Optional Ratchet 
21mm Bi-Hex (12pt) socket 
Socket 13mm 
Torque Wrench 
Strong Wire or String 
T50 Torx Bit 
Breaker Bar 
 
Discard the brake pads and ensure you fit new brake pads when 
you fit new brake disks. See section 4. How to change the Brake 
Pads - Front 
Fully remove the calliper and ensure that it is supported so that 
you do not put too much strain on the brake pipe components. I 
used a piece of strong wire and tied it to form a loop. As per 
picture. 
 
 
Then find the Torx Screw 
(Size T50) on the face of 
the disk.  
    
 
Clear out any brake dust or mud from the screw head. Brake Disk 
cleaner is ideal. 
Insert the Torx and gently tap it in with a hammer to ensure it is 
fully home.  
 
Then undo the Screw carefully. I generally tend to very 
slightly tighten the screw to break any seal that has 
formed and then undo the screw. The hub may still move,