Kenmore Power Miser 6 Manual

							31
control valve/thermostat. Finally, start the thermocouple nut 
and turn it all the way in by hand.  An additional quarter turn 
with a 3/8” open-end wrench will then be sufficient to seat 
the lockwasher. When you are finished, connect the two 
wire leads that go to the thermal switch.
7.  Reconnect the igniter wire.
8.  Turn gas supply on and refer to the Lighting Instructions.
9.  With the burner lit, check the gas control valve/thermostat 
supply line, two piece wire connector, manifold tube, 
and pilot tube connections for leaks. Check for leaks by 
brushing on an approved noncorrosive leak detection 
solution. Bubbles forming indicate a leak. Correct any leak 
found. IMPORTANT: All leaks must be fixed immediately.
10.  Replace the outer door.
DOOR GASKETFLAME ARRESTORBRACKET
TIP
FIGURE 39.
MANIFOLD TUBETIP
BRACKETSLOT CLOSE-UP INSIDE VIEW OF
THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER.
FIGURE 40.
Piezoelectric  Igniter  System                                   
The piezoelectric igniter system consists of the igniter button, 
electrode, and wire.  The pilot is ignited by an electric spark 
generated when the igniter button is pressed. The spark gap 
of 0.125 inch is set when the electrode is installed at the factory. 
(Figure 41). Use only factory authorized piezoelectric igniter 
parts for replacement.
SNAP-ON CONNECTOR
IGNITER
BUTTON
WIRE
TO
ELECTRODETHERMOCOUPLE
PILOT
PILOT
BRACKET
ELECTRODETIP
.125” *
* NOTE: SPARK GAP DISTANCE MEASURED FROM ELECTRODE TIP TO PILOT.
 
FIGURE 41.
Replacing  the  Manifold/Burner  Assembly                             
Explosion Hazard
•    Tighten both manifold door screws securely.
•    Remove any fiberglass between gasket 
and combustion chamber.
•    Replace viewport if glass is missing or 
damaged.
•    Replace two piece wire connector if missing or 
removed.
•    Replace door gasket if damaged.
•    Failure to follow these instructions can result 
in death, explosion, or fire.
WARNING
1.  Check the door gasket for damage or imbedded debris 
prior to installation.
2.  Inspect the view port for damage and replace as required.
3.  Insert the manifold/burner assembly into the burner 
compartment, making sure that the tip of the manifold tube 
engages in the slot of the bracket inside the combustion 
chamber (Figures 39 & 40). 
4.  Inspect the door gasket and make sure there is no 
fiberglass insulation between the gasket and the 
combustion chamber.
5.  Replace the two screws, which secure the manifold/
burner assembly door to the combustion chamber and 
tighten securely. Once the manifold/burner assembly door 
is tightened, visually inspect the door gasket between 
the manifold/burner assembly door and the combustion 
chamber for spaces or gaps that would prevent a seal. 
IMPORTANT: Do not operate the water heater if the door 
gasket does not create a seal between the manifold door 
and the combustion chamber.
6.  During the following procedure, do not cross-thread or 
apply any thread sealant to any of the fittings listed below. 
First, reconnect the manifold tubing to the gas control valve/
thermostat. NOTE: L.P. gas systems use reverse (left-hand) 
threads on the manifold tube.   
  NOTE: If a ferrule nut needs to be installed for the pilot 
tube, locate the one provided with your parts kit.  Install it in 
the gas control valve/thermostat at the pilot location, hand 
tight only.  
  Next, insert the pilot tube into the ferrule nut until it bottoms 
out. NOTE: Hold the tube in this position. Tighten the ferrule 
nut with a wrench until the crimp connection seals to the 
pilot tube. Continue to tighten until the nut is tight in the gas  
						

							32
TEFLON® tape or pipe compound only on the threaded 
section of the gas control valve/thermostat that screws into 
the tank. 
2.   Reconnect the gas piping to the gas control valve/
thermostat. NOTE: Use an approved Teflon tape or pipe 
compound on the gas piping connections.
3.   Attach the igniter and bracket to the new gas control valve/
thermostat, clipping it at the back edge of thermostat and 
snapping it into place. NOTE: Do not use the (pilot) ferrule 
nut supplied with the new gas control valve/thermostat, 
unless the existing nut is not usable. Reconnect the pilot 
tube, manifold tube, igniter wire, and thermal switch wires. 
NOTE: L.P. gas systems use reverse (left-hand) threads on 
the manifold tube.
4.   Fill the tank completely with water. NOTE: To purge the 
lines of any excess air, keep the hot water faucet open for 
3 minutes after a constant flow of water is obtained.
5.  Turn on the gas supply and test the gas supply connections 
by brushing on an approved noncorrosive leak detection 
solution. Bubbles forming indicate a leak. Correct any leak 
found.
6.   Check the operation of the burner by following the lighting 
instructions on the front of the water heater. With the 
burner lit, check the gas control valve/thermostat supply 
line, manifold tube and pilot tube connections for leaks. 
7.  Verify proper operation and then replace the outer door.
8.  If additional information is required, contact Residential 
Technical Assistance by referencing the number on the water 
heater.
TEFLON
® is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours 
and Company.
FVIR  System  Operational  Checklist                                 
1.  Manifold gasket properly sealed.
2.  Viewport not damaged or cracked.
3.  Flame-arrestor free of debris and undamaged.
4.  Two piece wire connector properly installed.
5.  No leaks at pilot and manifold connection.
6.  Manifold door screws securely tightened. 
7.  Depress the button on the thermal switch.
Testing  the  Igniter  System                                      
Turn off the gas to the water heater at the manual gas shut-off 
valve. Watch the electrode tip while activating the igniter. A 
visible spark should jump from the electrode. To avoid shock, 
do not touch the burner or any metal part on the pilot or pilot 
assembly. If no spark is visible, check the wire connections 
and make sure the electrode is not broken. Replace the igniter 
if defective. Dirt and rust on the pilot or electrode tip can 
prevent the igniter spark. Wipe clean with a damp cloth and dry 
completely. Rust can be removed from the electrode tip and 
metal surfaces by lightly sanding with an emery cloth or fine 
grit sandpaper.
Removing and Replacing the Gas Control 
Valve/Thermostat                                                             
IMPORTANT: This water heater has a resettable thermal
switch installed. Do not attempt to disable or modify this
feature in any way. Use only factory authorized replacement 
parts.
Removing the Gas Valve:
1.  Turn off the gas supply to the water heater at the manual gas 
shut-off valve. This valve is typically located beside the water 
heater. Note the position of the shut-off valve in the open/on 
position then proceed to turn it off (Figure 11).
2.  On the lower front of the water heater, locate the gas control 
valve/thermostat (see Figure 32). Before performing any 
maintenance, it is important to turn the temperature dial on 
the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest setting.
3.  On top of the gas control valve/thermostat, turn the gas 
control knob to the “OFF” position. See Lighting Instructions 
on the water heater.
4.  Drain the water heater. Refer to the section of “Draining 
and Flushing” section and follow the procedure.
5.  Disconnect the igniter wire from the igniter. NOTE:  There are 
two types of igniters. If you have the square igniter, slide the 
igniter bracket backwards away from the gas valve to remove 
it.  If you have the round igniter, first remove the igniter from the 
bracket by depressing front and rear holding tabs and lift. Next, 
remove the igniter bracket from the gas valve. Disconnect the 
thermocouple (right-hand threads), pilot tube, and manifold 
tube at the gas control valve/thermostat (Figure 31). NOTE: 
L.P. gas systems use reverse (left-hand) threads on the 
manifold tube.
6.  Refer to “Gas Piping” section (Figure 11) and disconnect 
the ground joint union in the gas piping. Disconnect the 
remaining pipe from the gas control valve/thermostat.
7.  To remove the gas control valve/thermostat, thread a 
correctly sized pipe into the inlet and use it to turn the gas 
control valve/thermostat (counterclockwise.) Do not use a 
pipe wrench or equivalent to grip body.  Damage may result, 
causing leaks. 
  Do not insert any sharp objects into the inlet or outlet connections. 
Damage to the gas control valve/thermostat may result.
Replacing the Gas Valve:
1.   To replace the gas control valve/thermostat, reassemble 
in reverse order. When replacing the gas control valve/ 
thermostat, thread a correctly sized pipe into the inlet and 
use it to turn the gas valve (clockwise.) DO NOT OVER 
TIGHTEN or damage may result. NOTE: Use an approved  
						

							33
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Start  Up  Conditions                                                                                                                                      
Thermal Expansion
As water is heated, it expands (thermal expansion). In a closed 
system, the volume of water will grow. As the volume of water 
grows, there will be a corresponding increase in water pressure 
due to thermal expansion. Thermal expansion can cause 
premature tank failure (leakage). This type of failure is not 
covered under the limited warranty. Thermal expansion can also 
cause intermittent temperature-pressure relief valve operation: 
water discharged from the valve due to excessive pressure 
build up. The temperature-pressure relief valve is not intended 
for the constant relief of thermal expansion. This condition is not 
covered under the limited warranty.
A properly sized thermal expansion tank should be installed 
on all closed systems to control the harmful effects of thermal 
expansion. Thermal expansion tanks are available from Sears 
stores and through the Sears Service Centers. Contact the local 
plumbing inspector, water supplier and/or the Sears Service 
Center for assistance in controlling these situations. See 
Figure 42.
Thermal Expansion Tank Specifi cations
 Tank                   Dimensions    Pipe
  Model   Capacity                 in Inches     Fitting
 Number  In Gallons  Diameter  Length  On Tank
  153.331020  2  8 (203 mm)  12-3/4 (323 mm)   3/4” Male
  153.331050  5  11 (279 mm)  14-3/4 (375 mm)   3/4” Male
Expansion Tank Sizing Chart
Inlet*        Water Heater Capacity (Gallons)
   Water
   Pressure 30 40 50 66 82
Expansion 40psi  2  2 2 5 5
Ta n k  50psi  2  2 2 5 5
Capacity 60psi  2 2 5 5 5
Needed 70psi 2 2 5 5 5
    80psi  2  5 5 5 5
*Highest recorded inlet water pressure in a 24 hour period or regulated 
water pressure.
NOTE: Expansion tanks are pre-charged with a 40 psi air 
charge.  If the inlet water pressure is higher than 40 psi, the 
expansion tank’s air pressure must be adjusted to match 
that pressure, but must not be higher than 80 psi.
      
      
FIGURE 42.
Strange Sounds
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some 
metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not 
represent harmful or dangerous conditions.
Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner 
area during heating and cooling periods and should be 
considered normal.  See “Condensation” section.
Draft Hood Operation
Check draft hood operation by performing a worst case 
depressurization of the building. With all doors and windows 
closed, and with all air handling equipment and exhaust fans 
operating such as furnaces, clothes dryers, range hoods and 
bathroom fans, a match flame should still be drawn into the draft 
hood of the water heater with its burner firing. If the flame is not  
						

							34
drawn toward the draft hood, shut off water heater and make 
necessary air supply changes to correct.
Condensation
Whenever the water heater is filled with cold water, some 
condensate will form while the burner is on. A water heater may 
appear to be leaking when in fact the water is condensation. 
This usually happens when: 
•  A new water heater is filled with cold water for the first 
time.
•  Burning gas produces water vapor In water heaters, 
particularly high efficiency models where flue temperatures 
are lower.
•  Large amounts of hot water are used in a short time and the 
refill water in the tank is very cold.
Moisture from the products of combustion condense on the 
cooler tank surfaces and form drops of water which may fall 
onto the burner or other hot surfaces to produce a “sizzling” or 
“frying” noise.
Excessive condensation can cause pilot outage due to water 
running down the flue tube onto the main burner and putting 
out the pilot.
Because of the suddenness and amount of water, condensation 
water may be diagnosed as a “tank leak”. After the water in 
the tank warms up (about 1-2 hours), the condition should 
disappear.
Do not assume the water heater is leaking until there has been 
enough time for the water in the tank to warm up. 
An undersized water heater will cause more condensation. 
The water heater must be sized properly to meet the family’s 
demands for hot water including dishwashers, washing machines 
and shower heads.
Excessive condensation may be noticed during the winter and 
early spring months when incoming water temperatures are at 
their lowest.
Good venting is essential for a gas fired water heater to operate 
properly as well as to carry away products of combustion and 
water vapor. 
Smoke Odor
It is not uncommon to experience a small amount of smoke and 
odor during the initial start-up. This is due to burning off of oil 
from metal parts, and will disappear in a short while.
Operational  Conditions                                                                                                    
Smelly Odor
In each water heater there is installed at least one anode rod 
(see parts section) for corrosion protection of the tank. Certain 
water conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the 
water. The most common complaint associated with the anode 
rod is one of a “rotten egg smell”. This odor is derived from 
hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved in the water. The smell is the result of four factors which must all be present for the odor to 
develop:
•  a concentration of sulfate in the supply water.
•  little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.
•  a sulfate reducing bacteria within the water heater. (This 
harmless bacteria is non-toxic to humans.)
•  an excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by 
the corrosion protective action of the anode.
Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water 
heater models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less active 
material, and then chlorinating the water heater tank and all 
hot water lines. Contact Sears Service for further information 
concerning this chlorination treatment and an anode replacement 
kit #9001453. (For short heaters, use anode replacement 
kit #9006299.)  Anode replacement and chlorination of the tank 
are not covered by the water heater’s limited warranty.
If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement and 
chlorination treatment, it may be necessary to chlorinate or 
aerate your water supply to eliminate the problem.
Do not remove the anode, leaving the tank unprotected. By 
doing so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.
“AIR” In Hot Water Faucets
HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water 
system that has not been used for a long period of time (generally 
two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely fl ammable  and 
explosive. To prevent the possibility of injury under these conditions, 
we recommend the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be 
opened for several minutes before any electrical appliances which are 
connected to the hot water system are used (such as a dishwasher 
or washing machine). If hydrogen gas is present, there will probably 
be an unusual sound similar to air escaping through the pipe as the 
hot water faucet is opened. There must be no smoking or open fl ame 
near the faucet at the time it is open.
Safety Shut-off and Thermal Switch
This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in the 
event of the following:
1.  The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.
2.  The water temperature exceeds 195°F (91°C).
3.  Excessive build up of dust on the base ring filter or flame 
arrestor. See Maintenance of your Water Heater Section.
4.  The ignition of flammable vapors.
A thermocouple is used to determine if a pilot flame is present, 
and will shut off the gas supply to the main burner and the pilot  
						

							35
Read this manual first. Then, before checking the water heater, 
make sure the gas supply has been turned “OFF”, and never 
turn the gas “ON” before the tank is completely full of water.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely filled with 
water.  To prevent damage to the tank, the tank must be filled 
with water.  Water must flow from the hot water faucet before 
turning “ON” gas to the water heater.  
A.  Water at the draft hood is water vapor which has condensed 
out of the combustion products.  This is caused by a 
problem in the vent.  Contact a qualified technician.
B.   *Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather or 
pipe connections may be leaking.
C.   *The anode rod fitting may be leaking.
D.   Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure relief 
valve may be due to thermal expansion or high water 
pressure in your area.
E.   *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking at 
the tank fitting.
F.   Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being 
slightly opened.
G.   *The drain valve may be leaking at the tank fitting.
H.  Combustion products contain water vapor which can 
condense on the cooler surfaces of the tank. Droplets form 
and drip onto the burner or run on the floor. This is common 
at the time of start-up after installation and when incoming 
water is cold.
I.   Water in the water heater bottom or on the floor may be 
from condensation, loose connections, or the relief valve. 
DO NOT replace the water heater until a full inspection 
of all possible water sources is made and necessary 
corrective steps taken.
Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground seepage 
should also be checked.
*  To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert cotton 
swab between jacket opening and fitting. If cotton is wet, follow 
draining instructions in the “Draining and Flushing” section and 
then remove fitting. Put pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads 
and replace. When you are finished, follow the steps in “Filling 
the Water Heater” in the Installation Instructions earlier in this 
manual. if the flame is absent. This unit is also equipped with a thermal 
switch, designed to shut off the gas supply in the event the 
water heater has been exposed to flammable vapors (e.g., 
spilled gasoline), poor combustion caused by a blocked vent or 
insufficient combustion air. If the thermal switch opens:
1. Check the fl ame-arrestor for signs of high temperature (blue 
or black discoloration). See Figure 38. 
2. If there are signs of high temperature or that the thermal switch 
has opened, inspect your installation for problems with venting, 
combustion air supply, or a possible fl ammable vapor event. 
(See “Pilot Light Troubleshooting Flowchart” section.) Correct 
any issues prior to resetting the thermal switch. If you suspect 
a fl ammable vapor incident has occurred, do not use this 
appliance. Immediately call a qualifi ed technician to inspect 
the appliance. Water heaters subjected to a fl ammable vapors 
ignition will require replacement of the entire water heater.
3. Reset the thermal switch by depressing the small button in the 
center of the thermal switch. Follow the Lighting Instructions 
found on the front of your water heater. A high temperature 
limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) in the tank is used to 
shut off the unit if the water temperature exceeds 195°F 
(91°C). The ECO is a single-use switch, which, if activated, 
requires complete replacement of the entire gas control valve/
thermostat. If the ECO should activate, the water heater cannot 
be used until the gas control valve/thermostat is replaced by 
a qualifi ed technician. Contact Sears at 1-800-4-MY-HOME 
(1-800-469-4663) to request service.
Leakage Checkpoints
             
6” MAXIMUM
AIR GAP
AC
B
D
E
F
G
H
I
FIGURE 43. 
						

							36
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) CORRECTIVE ACTION
BURNER WILL NOT IGNITE 1.  Pilot not lit
2.  Thermostat set too low
3. No gas
4.  Dirt in the gas lines
5.  Pilot line clogged
6.  Main burner line clogged
7. Non-functioning thermocouple
8. Non-functioning thermostat
9.  Heater installed in a confined area1. Light pilot
2.  Turn temp. dial to desired temperature
3.  Check with gas utility company
4.  Notify utility-install trap in gas line
5.  Clean, locate source and correct
6.  Clean, locate source and correct
7.  R e p l a c e  t h e r m o c o u p l e
8. Replace thermostat
9.  Provide fresh air ventilation
SMELLY WATER 1.  Sulfides in the water 1.  Replace the anode with a special anode
BURNER FLAME YELLOW-
LAZY1.  Insufficient secondary air
2.  Low gas pressure
3.  Water heater flue or vent system 
blocked
4.  Main burner line clogged
5.  Heater installed in a confined area
6.  Obstruction in main burner orifice1.  Provide ventilation to water heater
2.  Check with gas utility company
3.  Clean, locate source and correct
4.  Clean, locate source and correct
5.  Proper fresh air ventilation
6.  Clean or replace orifice
PILOT WILL NOT LIGHT OR 
REMAIN LIT1. Non-functioning igniter
2.  The thermal switch tripped
3.  Wire lead connection at thermal switch 
loose
4.  Thermocouple connection loose
5.  Air in gas line
6.  Low gas pressure
7.  N o  g a s
8.  Dirt in gas lines
9. Cold drafts
10.  Thermostat ECO switch open
11.  Pilot line or orifice clogged
12. Non-functioning thermocouple
13.  Air for combustion obstructed
14. Flammable vapors incident, FVIR 
function actuated
15.  Base-ring filter obstructed1.  Replace igniter pilot assembly
2.  See Pilot Light Troubleshooting Flowchart section
3.  Remove and reconnect the wire leads at 
thermal switch, confirm connections are tight 
and not loose
4.  Finger tighten; then 1/4 turn with wrench
5.  Bleed the air from the gas line
6.  Check with gas utility company
7.  Check with gas utility company
8.  Notify utility-install dirt trap in gas line
9.  Locate source and correct
10. Replace thermostat
11.  Clean, locate source and correct
12. Replace thermocouple
13.  See maintenance section for inspection and   
cleaning of flame arrester 
14. Replace water heater, eliminate flammable 
vapors source. Contact Sears Service.
15.  Inspect and clean base-ring filter. See “External 
Cleaning & Inspection of the Base-Ring Filter.”
HIGH OPERATION COSTS 1.  Thermostat set too high
2.  Sediment or lime in tank
3.  Water heater too small for job
4.  Wrong piping connections
5. Leaking faucets
6. Gas leaks
7.  Wasted hot water
8.  Long runs of exposed piping
9.  Hot water piping in exposed wall1.  Set temperature dial to lower setting
2.  Drain/flush-provide water treatment if needed
3.  Install adequate heater
4.  Correct piping-dip tube must be in cold inlet
5. Repair faucets
6.  Check with utility-repair at once
7.  A d v i s e  c u s t o m e r
8. Insulate piping
9. Insulate piping
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER 1.  Thermostat set too low
2.  Sediment or lime in tank
3.  Water heater too small
4.  Wrong piping connections
5. Leaking faucets
6.  Wasted hot water
7.  Long runs of exposed piping
8.  Hot water piping in outside wall
9.  Low gas pressure1.  Turn temperature dial to desired setting
2.  Drain/flush-provide water treatment if needed
3.  Install adequate heater
4.  Correct piping-dip tube must be in cold inlet
5 Repair faucets
6. Advise customer
7. Insulate piping
8. Insulate piping
9.  Check with gas utility company
SLOW HOT WATER 
RECOVERY1.  Insufficient secondary air
2.  Water heater flue or vent system 
blocked
3.  Low gas pressure
4. Improper calibration
5.  Thermostat set too low
6.  Water heater too small
7.  Wrong piping connections
8.  Wasted hot water1.  Provide ventilation to water heater. Check flue 
way, flue baffle, and burner
2.  Clean flue, locate source and correct
3.  Check with gas utility company
4. Replace thermostat
5.  Turn temperature dial to desired setting
6.  Install adequate heater
7.  Correct piping-dip tube must be in cold inlet
8. Advise customer
DRIP FROM RELIEF VALVE 1.  Excessive water pressure
2. Heater stacking
3.  Closed water system1.  Use a pressure reducing valve and relief 
valve
2.  Lower the thermostat setting
3.  See “Closed System/Thermal Expansion” 
						

							37
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) CORRECTIVE ACTION
THERMOSTAT FAILS TO 
SHUT-OFF1.  Thermostat not functioning properly
2. Improper calibration1. Replace thermostat
2. Replace thermostat
COMBUSTION ODORS 1.  Insufficient secondary air
2.  Water heater flue or vent system 
blocked
3.  Heater installed in a confined area1.  Provide ventilation to water heater. Check flue
  way, flue baffle, and burner
2.  Clean, locate source and correct
3.  Provide fresh air ventilation
SMOKING AND  CARBON 
FORMATION (SOOTING)1.  Insufficient secondary air
2.  Low gas pressure
3.  Water heater flue or vent system 
blocked
4.  Thermostat not functioning properly
5.  Heater installed in a confined area
6.  Burner flame yellow-lazy1.  Provide ventilation to water heater. Check flue 
way, flue baffle, burner
2.  Check with gas utility company
3.  Clean, locate source and correct
4. Replace thermostat
5.  Provide fresh air ventilation
6.  See “Burner Flame Yellow-Lazy”
CONDENSATION 1.  Temperature setting too low 1.  Increase the temperature setting.  Refer to the 
“Condensation” sub-section of this manual’s 
Troubleshooting Guide.
BURNER FLAME FLOATS 
AND LIFTS  OFF PORTS1.  Orifice too large
2.  High gas pressure
3.  Water heater flue or vent system 
blocked
4. Cold drafts1.  Replace with correct orifice
2.  Check with gas utility company
3.  Clean flue and burner-locate source and correct
4.  Locate source and correct
BURNER FLAME TOO HIGH 1.  Orifice too large 1.  Replace with correct orifice
FLAME BURNS AT ORIFICE 1.  Thermostat not functioning properly
2.  Low gas pressure1. Replace thermostat
2.  Check with gas utility company
PILOT FLAME
TOO SMALL1.  Pilot line or orifice clogged
2.  Low gas pressure1.  Clean, locate source and correct
2.  Check with gas utility company
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART (CONTINUED) 
						

							38
Has the thermal switch 
tripped?
NO
Check for insufficient 
combustion air.
Are there openings 
for make-up air to 
enter the room?
Are the openings of sufficient size? 
See “Combustion Air Supply and Ventilation” 
section in this manual for requirements.
Is there a furnace/air 
handler in the same room as 
the water heater?
Does the return air duct for the furnace/air handler draw 
its air from a separate location than the water heater? 
See the “Location Requirements” and “Combustion Air 
Supply and Ventilation” sections in this manual.
Is there proper drafting at the 
draft hood? See “Checking the 
Draft” section in this manual.
Is the flame-arrestor free from 
debris due to excessive lint, dirt, 
dust or oil?
Check the water heater for a Flammable Vapor (FV) event. Note: it may be 
necessary to remove the manifold door assembly to visually inspect the water 
heater. Reference the “Maintenance of your Water Heater” section of this 
manual for removal instructions.
Is the igniter wire insulation burnt or 
show signs of discoloration?
Install correct size make-up air openings per 
the “Combustion Air Supply and Ventilation” 
section in this manual.
NO
NO
Correct size of openings to 
allow sufficient air.
Refer to the “Maintenance of Your Water Heater” section of this 
manual for information on cleaning the flame-arrestor. 
NO
NO
Check the vent system for restrictions/obstructions and check the vent 
termination height. Refer to the “Installation Instructions” section of this 
manual for specific requirements.
NOIs the pilot tube 
damaged?NODoes the flame 
arrestor show signs 
of discoloration and/
or debris?
Shut-off the gas supply to the water 
heater at the manual gas shut-off 
valve, then contact Sears Service at 
1-800-4-MY-HOME (1-800-469-4663).
YES
YES
YES
YES
YES
YES
YES
YESYES
NO
Contact a local Heating, Ventilation, Air 
Conditioning & Refrigeration authorized 
service provider.
Does pilot light go out when 
button is released?
YES
NOCheck Draft. (See “Checking the 
Draft” section of this manual.)
NO
YES
Is the thermocouple 
connection loose?
Tighten the connection
NO
Test the thermocouple using the following 
procedure: Disconnect the thermocouple from the 
gas control valve/thermostat. Using a multimeter 
with alligator clip leads, attach the red lead to 
the body (copper part) of the thermocouple. 
Attach the black lead to the end (silver part) of 
the thermocouple that connects to the gas control 
valve/thermostat. Follow the instruction to light 
the pilot and watch the voltage readings on the 
multimeter. After 45 seconds the meter should 
read 12 millivolts DC or more.
NODoes the thermocouple pass the test?
YESYES
YES
Are the wires from the gas 
control valve/thermostat firmly 
connected to the switch?
NOAre the wires damaged 
and/or frayed?
YES
NOSecure connections 
and attempt a relight.
Replace the gas control 
valve/thermostat.YES
PILOT LIGHT TROUBLESHOOTING FLOWCHART
THERMAL
SWITCH
Replace the thermocouple.
Is the base-ring filter clean (i.e., free 
of lint, dust, or debris)?
YES
NOInspect and clean the base-ring filter. Refer to the “External 
Inspection & Cleaning of the Base-Ring Filter” section of this manual.  
						

							39
NOTES 
						

							40
Model Numbers
Key No. Part Description 153.336433 153.336472 153.336572
1 Anode Rod9003944 9003944 9003944
2 Base-Ring Filter9006660 9006616 9006660
3 Burner Head9006136 9006136 9006136
4 Burner Orifi ce9006699 9006699 9006699
5 Draft Hood9006647 9006647 9006647
6 Drain Valve9002402 9002402 9002402
7 Gas Control ValveF145-1555 F145-1555 F145-1555
8 Inlet Tube w/ Gasket9006692 9003473 9006653
9 Inner Door Gasket9006141 9006141 9006141
10 Instruction Manual *186496-000 186496-000 186496-000
11 Mag-Erad *23600 23600 23600
12 Manifold Door Assembly - Contains: 
Manifold Tube, Gasket, Door, Pilot Tube, 
Thermocouple, Two-Piece Wire Connector 
w/ Clip, Thermal Switch and Pilot Assembly.9006697 9006617 9006695
13 Nipple w/Heat Trap9003719 9003719 9003719
14 Outer Door9006648 9006648 9006648
15 Piezo Igniter w/ Clip9006143 9006143 9006143
16 Pilot Assembly w/ Tubing and 
Fittings9006666 9006666 9006666
17 T & P Relief Valve9000071 9000071 9000071
18 Temperature Adjustment KnobF145-1280 F145-1280 F145-1280
19 Thermocouple9000056 9000056 9000056
20 Two-Piece Wire Connector w/ Clip9006449 9006449 9006449
 * Not Shown.      
Now that you have purchased your gas water heater, should 
a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact 
any Sears Service Center or call 1-800-4-MY-HOME
® 
(1-800-469-4663). Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when 
you call or visit.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE 
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
• MODEL NUMBER 
•    SERIAL NUMBER   
•    TYPE GAS - NATURAL OR PROPANE (L.P.) 
•    PART DESCRIPTION
THIS IS A REPAIR PARTS LIST, NOT A PACKING LIST.
POWER MISER™ 6 GAS WATER HEATER
PARTS ORDER LIST
3
4
16
9
1220
19
13
18
17
7
6
14
2
15
18
13
5
153.336433 40 Gallon Short (Natural)
153.336472 40 Gallon Tall (Natural)
153.336572 50 Gallon Tall (Natural)
MODEL NUMBERS