Husqvarna Viking Designer 2 Manual
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Utility Garment Sewing 31 Overcast Overcast fabric edges to prevent fraying and to help them lay fl at. It is easiest to overcast before the garment is sewn together. Presser foot J is rec om mend ed for light and medium weight fab ric to pre vent puckering along the edge. Press er foot B is used for heavy weight fabric. Your Sew ing Advisor will select the best length and width for the fabric weight and recommend the presser foot. Fabric: Woven medium Touch: The Sewing Advisor tab. Choose Woven Medium fabric and Overcast technique. (The Sewing Advisor selects a three-step zigzag stitch.) Use: Presser foot J and size 80 needle as rec om mend ed. Place the edge of a single thickness of fabric un der presser foot J with the pin on the foot along the edge of the fabric. The three step zigzag stitch sews over the pin to keep the edge of the fabric fl at. If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . Sew: • Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • Sew to overcast the edge of the fabric. • Touch . Note: It is not necessary to overcast leather or vinyl, but the Sewing Advisor gives you the possibility. Touch Leather or Vi nyl fabric and Overcast technique on your Sewing Advisor. (The Sewing Advisor selects a zigzag stitch).
Utility Garment Sewing 32 ABC Seam/Overcast for Ribbing The Seam/Overcast technique is perfect for stitch ing ribbed neckbands and cuffs. Cut a mock neckline in a stretch medium fabric, touch Stretch medium and Seam/Overcast on the Sew ing Advisor and sew a piece of ribbing to the mock neckline with a 1/4'' (6 mm) seam al low ance, stretch ribbing as you sew. Seam and Overcast The Seam/Overcast stitch sews the seam and overcasts the edge all at one time. This saves time. There are a number of different Seam/Over cast stitches on your Quilt Designer II. Your Sewing Advisor will select the best one for your fab ric and make all adjustments automatically. Fabric: Stretch light, cut in two Touch: Stretch Light fabric and Seam/Overcast technique on the Sewing Advisor (A). Use: Presser foot J and size 75 stretch needle as recommended. Sew: • Place fabric pieces right sides to geth er. Put the fabric in position under the press er foot with the pin on the foot along the edge of the fabric. • Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . • Seam/Overcast along one edge • Touch . Repeat the Seam/Overcast technique on stretch heavy fabric (B) and on woven heavy fabric (C). Your Sewing Advisor will select the best stitch, length, width, tension, pres ser foot pressure and sewing speed for each fabric type. Follow other recommendations given on the Touch Screen.
Utility Garment Sewing 33 Baste Basting is temporary stitching for fi tting garments, gathering (see page 38) and marking. The Sewing Advisor automatically sets a long stitch length and reduces the tension so the threads are easy to remove or to pull for gathering. Fabric: Woven medium, cut in two. Touch: Woven medium fabric and Baste technique. Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recommended. Place the fabrics right sides together. Put the fab ric in position under the presser foot. Seam allowance: 5/8'' (15 mm). Sew: • Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . • Stitch along seam line. • Touch . • Pull bobbin thread to remove stitching.
Utility Garment Sewing 34 Blind Hem The blind hem creates an invisible hem on garments. There are two types of blind hem, one is recommended for medium to heavy woven fab rics, the other for stretch. The blind hem is not suggested for light weight fabric, but your Sew ing Advisor will select the best stitch possible. Fabric: Stretch medium Touch: Stretch medium fabric and Blind hem technique in the Sewing Advisor. Use: Presser foot D and size 90 stretch needle as rec om mend ed. Fold a 2'' (50 mm) hem along one fabric edge pla ce pins in place perpendicular to the hem with the hem to fi rst entry of the pin about 1/4'' (6 mm) from the hem edge. Hold the fabric wrong side up with the hem to the right. Fold the hem under to the right side, leaving about 1/4'' (6 mm) of the hem extending to the right. You will sew on this extension. Sew: • Place the fabric under presser foot D with the folded edge against the right toe of the foot. • Step on the foot control. The Sen sor foot low ers automatically. Be sure to remove the pins before you sew over them. Do not try to sew over pins. Touch Pivot and adjust fabric if necessary. • As the large zigzag swings to the left, it should barely catch the fold. Generally the Sewing Ad vi sor will choose the correct width. Adjust the stitch width if necessary. If too much fabric is caught, go to to narrow the width ( ). If the zigzag is not catching the fold, wid en ( ) the width. • Touch .
Utility Garment Sewing 35 Hem The Hem technique on your Sewing Advisor will select the visible or topstitch hem that is best for your fabric weight and type. For woven fabric, leather and vinyl, a straight stitch is selected. For stretch fabrics, elastic stitches are se lect ed. Fabric: Woven medium Touch: Woven medium fabric and Hem technique. Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recommended. Sew: • Fold and press a 3/8'' (10 mm) hem fold and press another 3/4'' (20 mm) hem. Put the fabric in po si tion un der the presser foot. • Touch Pivot and adjust fabric if necessary. Step on the foot control. The Sen sor Foot low ers automatically. • Sew along the hem edge. • Touch . Repeat this technique on a Stretch medium fabric. The Sewing Advisor selects a fl atlock stitch. Follow other recommendations given on the Touch Screen. Fold a hem to the wrong side and stitch with fl at lock stitch on the right side. Trim away excess fabric. Use this technique for belt loops too. When sewing over seams in extra heavy fab ric or a blue jeans hem, the foot can tip as the machine climbs over the seam. The nee dle can hit the tipped foot and break. In this case, use the clearance plate to balance the height of the hem as you sew. Place the clearance plate behind the foot as you ap proach the hem and in front of the foot as you sew over the hem thickness. Remove the clearance plate before sew ing in to it.
Utility Garment Sewing 36 0 6 10 14 18 22 26 30 34 38 42 46 50 8 12 16 20 24 28 32 36 40 44 48 a. Buttonhole The Sewing Advisor will select the best but ton hole and stitch settings for your fabric. Fabric should be interfaced and/or stabilized where but ton holes are to be sewn. Mark the buttonhole placement on your fabric with your Pictogram pen™. You can also select your buttonhole from Stitch d- Card A 1 (see page 44). A buttonhole Stitch d-Card (B 1) with additional buttonhole styles is an optional ac ces so ry. Fabric: Woven medium and stabilizer Touch: Woven medium fabric and Buttonhole technique. Use: Size 80 needle as recomended. Snap on the Sensor Buttonhole Foot as in di cat ed on the Touch Screen by the wheel symbol next to the foot. Plug the cord into the sock et in the left front un der si de corner of the machine (a). Line up the white range on the side of the wheel with the white marking line on the foot. In you can enter the buttonhole size with the or button. Average buttonhole sizes are: 16 mm (5/8''), 20 mm (3/4''), 24 mm (1''). Maximum buttonhole size when using the Buttonhole Sensor Foot is 50 mm (2''). Many button packages list the size or use the But ton hole Rule (see illustration). The but ton hole size need ed will vary with the thick ness and style of your but ton. Always stitch a sam ple but ton hole on scraps fi rst. Sew: • Fold fabric in two and place stabilizer un der neath. • Place fabric under Sensor Buttonhole Foot. The meas ure ment wheel can be raised to a stop by lifting the toe of the foot, which makes it easier to place the fabric un der the presser foot. Use the markings on the left toe of the Sensor Buttonhole Foot to position the garment edge. Place the edge of the garment at the middle mark to have 5/8'' (15 mm) from the edge to the buttonhole. Buttonhole Rule 5/8 (15 mm) Buttoning EdgeEnter button- hole size Icon for Sensor Buttonhole FootSensor Buttonhole Foot socket Arrows indicating sewing direction for a satin stitch buttonhole
Utility Garment Sewing 37 1. Sewing direction for satin stitch buttonholes sewn with the Sensor Buttonhole Foot 2. Sewing direction for buttonholes without satin stitches or satin stitch buttonholes sewn with presser foot C • Step on the foot control, the Sen sor Buttonhole Foot lowers automatically. A straight stitch is sewn away from you indicating the left buttonhole column, then the satin column is sewn toward you. This is repeated for the right column. The bartacks are automatic (Illustration 1). Keep the foot control depressed until the Thread Cutter cuts the threads and the Sensor Button-hole Foot is raised. When sewing buttonholes without satin stitches or when using presser foot C, the sewing steps are different (there is no straight stitch step). See Illustration 2. Note: If you are sewing buttonholes at a very nar row area, snap on the stan dard foot C and fol low the step by step buttonhole instructions on page 44. Button Sew buttons, snaps, hook and eyes quickly with your Quilt Designer II. Fabric: Woven medium Touch: Woven medium fabric and Button technique in the Sewing Advisor. Use: Size 80 needle and the clearance plate to create a thread shank as rec om mend ed. Snap off pres ser foot. Low er the feed teeth as rec om mend ed by the help Pop-up. Sew: • Place the thin end of the clearance plate under button when sewing on light fabrics. Hold in pla ce with trans pa rent tape. Use the thick end for heavier fabrics. • Place under ankle with the holes in the button lined up with the swing of the needle. Touch Pivot . Check the swing of the needle by turn ing the hand wheel by hand to be sure the nee dle will not hit the button. Bring the needle down into the hole of the but ton. • Zigzag button in place with 6 to 8 stitches. • Touch to tie off. Touch to repeat for the next button. • Raise feed teeth when button sewing is completed. Note: The width of the zigzag is set for most but tons. If you sew a tiny button or a very large coat but ton, touch and increase ( ) or decrease ( ) the stitch width until the swing of the needle sews in the holes of the button or snap.
Utility Garment Sewing 38 Utility Sewing Stitch d-Card A1 includes Utility Stitches. Utility stitches are the stitches selected by the Sewing Advisor and a row of additional stitches which are described on the following pages. When you have inserted the Stitch d-Card in the machine (see page 17), touch the picture of the stitch to select it. If needed, make adjustments in stitch length and width in the ADJUST Menu and change thread tension and presser foot pressure in the SET Menu. Straight Stitch Touch: Woven medium in the Sewing Advisor. Insert Stitch d-Card A 1 and select Straight Stitch (A102). Your Quilt Designer II will automatically make the stan dard settings. The Touch Screen will show you all in for ma tion you need to get the best result. Lightning Stitch (Stretch Stitch) Touch: Stretch light in the Sewing Advisor and select Stretch Stitch (A 105) from the Stitch d-Card A1. Your Quilt Designer II will au to mat i cal ly make the stan dard set tings. The Touch Screen will show you all information you need to get the best result. Straight stitch can also be used for topstitching. For a more visible topstitch, lengthen the stitch and use heav i er thread with larg er size nee dle. The Light ning Stitch is ideal for top- stitch ing in light stretch fab rics. Gathering A basting stitch is also used for gathering. • Touch to select stitch length of 3.5 to 6.0 for gathering. Use shorter stitch length for light er weight fabrics. • Place a single thickness of fabric under the press er foot and stitch. • Stitch a second row next to the fi rst. • Pull both bobbin threads to gather fabric. Be ca re ful not to pull them out.
Utility Garment Sewing 39 • • • • Snap on the optional Edge Stitching Foot or Edge Joining Foot for topstitching with dif fe rent needle positions. The fl ange guides the edge of the fabric. Twenty-fi ve Needle Positions Your Quilt Designer II has twenty-fi ve different needle positions for the most accurate seaming and topstitching ever. When sewing straight stitch or reinforced straight stitch, the needle positions can be adjusted in steps. Take advantage of the dif fe rent needle positions to edge stitch and top- stitch. Fabric: Woven medium Touch: Woven medium on the Sewing Advisor, and stitch A 102. Use: Presser foot A and size 80 needle as recommended. Sew: • Fold fabric in two and put it in position under the presser foot. If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . Step on foot control. The Sensor Foot lowers automatically. • Touch . Touch stitch width to move the needle 12 steps into the left nee dle po si tion = Stitch A 101. Touch to move needle 24 steps into the 6.0 right needle position = Stitch A 103. Touch stitch width to move needle back to center position. Each touch on stitch width ( or ) corresponds to a 0.25 mm adjustment of the needle position. To sew about 1/4'' (6 mm) from the edge, touch stitch A 103 and adjust the stitch width to 3.5. Snap on presser foot A and place the edge of the fabric so that it follows the outside right edge of the foot and sew. To get the maximum feeding when edge stitch ing close to the edge, place the fabric and sew with left needle position (A 101) so that the edge follows the in si de right edge of the pres ser foot D, or the fi rst mark of the left edge of the pres ser foot A. Use presser foot A when sewing light fabrics and presser foot D for other fabrics.Presser foot A Presser foot D Optional Edge Stitching Foot Presser foot A
Utility Garment Sewing 40 Center Zipper Fabric: Woven medium Use: Size 80 needle. Touch: Woven medium fabric and Seam technique. Sew the two fabrics together along the 5/8'' (15 mm) seam line up to the notch at the zip per pla ce ment. Touch: Baste on the Sewing Advisor and baste the zipper area of the seam together. Press the seam open. Pla ce the zipper right side to the pres sed open seam allowance. Close the Sewing Advisor. Touch: Free motion stitch V 102 (zigzag) in to bar tack baste zip per in place. Lower the feed teeth by turn ing the dial to . Move the fab ric to stitch a series of bar tacks over the zip per to hold it in place. Turn the feed teeth dial to sew ing po si tion . Insert: Stitch d-Card A 1, touch stitch A101 for left nee dle po si tion straight stitch. Snap on: Presser foot E so the needle is on the left side of the foot. There are two bars on the foot so you can snap on the foot to the right or left of the needle. Place fabric under the foot right side up with the zipper foot on the right side of the zipper. Sew: • Step on the foot control. The Sensor Foot low ers automatically. • If you need to adjust fabric, touch Pivot . • Begin stitching across the bottom, pivot and stitch the right side of the zipper to the top. • To avoid fabric shifting, sew the left side of the zipper in the same direction, touch A 103 for right needle position straight stitch. Snap on zip per foot E so the needle is on the right side of the foot. • Begin stitching across the bottom, pivot and stitch the left side of the zipper sewing from the bottom to the top. • Remove bartacks and basting stitch. Note: To adjust the position of the stitching line, ad just the needle position. Touch , touch stitch width (minus) to move the needle towards the cen ter po si tion.