Husqvarna 435 Xtorq Owners Manual

							STARTING AND STOPPING
English – 21115 10 82-26 Rev.2 2008-06-03
Starting and stopping
Starting
The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is 
started. Activate the brake by moving the front hand guard 
forwards.
Cold engine
Start position (1): Set the start/stop switch in the choke 
position by pulling the red control outward - upward (1).
Air purge (2): Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly 
until fuel fills the diaphragm (at least 6 times). The 
diaphragm need not be completely filled.
Grip the front handle with your left hand. Hold the chain 
saw on the ground by placing your right foot through the 
rear handle. Pull the starter handle with your right hand 
and pull out the starter cord slowly until you feel a 
resistance (as the starter pawls engage) then pull firmly 
and rapidly until the engine fires (3).
Push down the red choke control (4) as soon as the 
engine fires which can be heard through a "puff" sound.  
Keep on pulling the cord powerfully until the engine starts.
Warm engine
When the chain saw is heated restart the saw only by 
pulling the cord powerfully until the engine starts (5).
Never twist the starter cord around your hand.
There is a simplified start reminder with illustrations to 
describe each step on the rear edge of the saw (A).
As the chain brake is still engaged the speed of the 
engine must be set to idling as soon as possible, this is 
achieved by disengaging the throttle lock.  
Disengagement is done by gently touching on the throttle 
trigger.  This prevents unnecessary wear to the clutch, 
clutch drum and brake band.
Then let the machine idle for a few seconds before you 
apply full throttle. 
CAUTION! Do not pull the starter cord all the way out and 
do not let go of the starter handle when the cord is fully 
extended. This can damage the machine.
Note! Reactivate the chain brake by pushing the front 
hand guard back towards the front handle. The  chain 
saw is now ready for use.
!
WARNING! Note the following before 
starting:
The chain brake must be engaged when 
the chain saw is started to reduce the 
chance of contact with the moving chain 
during starting.
Never start a chain saw unless the bar, 
chain and all covers are fitted correctly. 
Otherwise the clutch can come loose and 
cause personal injuries.
Place the machine on firm ground. Make 
sure you have a secure footing and that 
the chain cannot touch anything.
Keep people and animals well away from 
the working area.
A
2
1
!
WARNING! Long term inhalation of the 
engine
						

							STARTING AND STOPPING
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•Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all 
covers are fitted correctly. See instructions under the 
heading Assembly. Without a bar and chain attached 
to the chain saw the clutch can come loose and cause 
serious injury.
• The chain brake should be activated when starting. 
Se instructions under the heading Start and stop. Do 
not drop start. This method is very dangerous 
because you may lose control of the saw.
• Never start the machine indoors. Exhaust fumes can 
be dangerous if inhaled.
• Observe your surroundings and make sure that there 
is no risk of people or animals coming into contact 
with the cutting equipment.
• Always hold the saw with both hands. The right hand 
should be on the rear handle, and the left hand on the 
front handle. All people, whether right or left handed, 
should use this grip. Use a firm grip with thumbs and 
fingers encircling the chain saw handles.
• The chain brake is released by moving the front hand 
guard marked ”PULL BACK TO RESET” back, 
towards the front handle. 
Stopping
Stop the engine by pushing the start/stop switch down.
CAUTION! The start/stop switch automatically returns to 
run position. To avoid involuntary start up, the spark plug 
cap must always be removed from the spark plug when 
the machine is unsupervised. 
						

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Before use:
1Check that the chain brake works correctly and is not 
damaged.
2 Check that the rear right hand guard is not damaged.
3 Check that the throttle lockout works correctly and is 
not damaged.
4 Check that the stop switch works correctly and is not 
damaged.
5 Check that all handles are free from oil.
6 Check that the anti vibration system works and is not 
damaged.
7 Check that the muffler is securely attached and not 
damaged.
8 Check that all parts of the chain saw are tightened 
correctly and that they are not damaged or missing.
9 Check that the chain catcher is in place and not 
damaged.
10 Check the chain tension.
General working instructions
Basic safety rules
1Look around you:
• To ensure that people, animals or other things cannot 
affect your control of the machine.
• To make sure that none of the above might come 
within reach of your saw or be injured by falling trees.
CAUTION! Follow the instructions above, but do not use a 
chain saw in a situation where you cannot call for help in 
case of an accident.
2 Do not use the machine in bad weather, such as 
dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. 
Working in bad weather is tiring and often brings 
added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling 
direction, etc.
3 Take great care when removing small branches and 
avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches 
at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by 
the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious 
injury.
4 Make sure you can move and stand safely. Check the 
area around you for possible obstacles (roots, rocks, 
branches, ditches, etc.) in case you have to move 
suddenly. Take great care when working on sloping 
ground.
5 Take great care when cutting a tree that is in tension. 
A tree that is in tension may spring back to its normal 
position before or after being cut. If you position 
yourself incorrectly or make the cut in the wrong place 
the tree may hit you or the machine and cause you to 
lose control. Both situations can cause serious 
personal injury.
IMPORTANT!
This section describes basic safety rules for using a 
chain saw. This information is never a substitute for 
professional skills and experience. If you get into a 
situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert 
advice. Contact your chain saw dealer, service agent or 
an experienced chain saw user. Do not attempt any 
task that you feel unsure of!
Before using a chain saw you must understand the 
effects of kickback and how to avoid them. See 
instructions under the heading How to avoid kickback.
Before using a chain saw you must understand the 
difference between cutting with the top and bottom 
edges of the bar. See instructions under the headings 
How to avoid kickback and Machine’s safety 
equipment.
Wear personal protective equipment. See instructions 
under the heading Personal protective equipment.
, 
						

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6Before moving your chain saw switch off the engine 
and lock the chain using the chain brake. Carry the 
chain saw with the bar and chain pointing backwards. 
Fit a guard to the bar before transporting the chain 
saw or carrying it for any distance.
7 When you put the chain saw on the ground, lock the 
saw chain using the chain brake and ensure you have 
a constant view of the machine. Switch the engine off 
before leaving your chain saw for any length of time.
General rules
1If you understand what kickback is and how it happens 
then you can reduce or eliminate the element of 
surprise. By being prepared you reduce the risk. 
Kickback is usually quite mild, but it can sometimes be 
very sudden and violent.
2 Always hold the chain saw firmly with your right hand 
on the rear handle and your left hand on the front 
handle. Wrap your fingers and thumbs around the 
handles. You should use this grip whether you are 
right-handed or left-handed. This grip minimises the 
effect of kickback and lets you keep the chain saw 
under control. 
Do not let go of the handles! 
3Most kickback accidents happen during limbing. Make 
sure you are standing firmly and that there is nothing 
in the way that might make you trip or lose your 
balance.
Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the 
kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a 
branch, nearby tree or some other object.
Have control over the workpiece. If the pieces you 
intend to cut are small and light, they can jam in the 
saw chain and be thrown towards you. Even if this 
does not need to be a danger, you may be surprised 
and lose control of the saw. Never saw stacked logs or 
branches without first separating them. Only saw one 
log or one piece at a time. Remove the cut pieces to 
keep your working area safe.
4Never use the chain saw above shoulder height 
and try not to cut with the tip of the bar. Never use 
the chain saw one-handed! 
5You must have a steady stance in order to have full 
control over the chain saw. Never work standing on a 
ladder, in a tree or where you do not have firm ground 
to stand on.
6 Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle.
7 Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the 
bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. 
This is known as cutting on the push stroke. The chain 
tries to push the chain saw back towards the user. If  
						

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
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the saw chain is jamming, the saw may be pushed 
back at you.
8 Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a 
risk that the chain saw will move so far backwards that 
only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the 
tree, which will lead to a kickback.
Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the 
top of the object downwards, is known as cutting on 
the pull stroke. In this case the chain saw pulls itself 
towards the tree and the front edge of the chain saw 
body rests naturally on the trunk when cutting. Cutting 
on the pull stroke gives the operator better control 
over the chain saw and the position of the kickback 
zone.
9 Follow the instructions on sharpening and maintaining 
your bar and chain. When you replace the bar and 
chain use only combinations that are recommended 
by us. See instructions under the headings Cutting 
equipment and Technical data.
Basic cutting technique
General•Always use full throttle when cutting!• Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the 
engine for too long at full throttle without any load, i.e. 
without any resistance from the chain during cutting, 
can lead to serious engine damage).
• Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke.• Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke.
Cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback. 
See instructions under the heading How to avoid 
kickback.
Terms
Cutting = General term for cutting through wood.
Limbing = Cutting branches off a felled tree.
Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off 
before the cut is complete.
There are five important factors you should consider 
before making a cut:
1Make sure the cutting equipment will not jam in the 
cut.
2 Make sure the object you are cutting will not split.
3 Make sure the chain will not strike the ground or any 
other object during or after cutting.
4 Is there a risk of kickback?
5 Do the conditions and surrounding terrain affect how 
safely you can stand and move about?
Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the object 
that you are cutting will split: the first is how the object is 
supported before and after cutting, and the second is 
whether it is in tension.
In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in 
two stages; from the top and from the bottom. You need to 
support the object so that it will not trap the chain or split 
during cutting.
!
WARNING! Never use a chain saw by 
holding it with one hand. A chain saw is 
not safely controlled with one hand. 
Always have a secure, firm grip around 
the handles with both hands.
IMPORTANT! If the chain jams in the cut: stop the 
engine! Don’t try to pull the chain saw free. If you do 
you may be injured by the chain when the chain saw 
suddenly breaks free. Use a lever to open up the cut 
and free the chain saw. 
						

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The following instructions describe how to handle the 
commonest situations you are likely to encounter when 
using a chain saw.
Limbing
When limbing thick branches you should use the same 
approach as for cutting.
Cut difficult branches piece by piece.
Cutting
If you have a pile of logs, each log you attempt to cut 
should be removed from the pile, placed on a saw horse 
or runners and cut individually.
Remove the cut pieces from the cutting area. By leaving 
them in the cutting area, you increase the risk for 
inadvertently getting a kickback, as well as increasing the 
risk of losing your balance while working.
The log is lying on the ground. There is little risk of the 
chain jamming or the object splitting. However there is a 
risk that the chain will touch the ground when you finish 
the cut.
Cut all the way through the log from above. Avoid letting 
the chain touch the ground as you finish the cut. Maintain 
full throttle but be prepared for what might happen.
If it is possible (can you turn the log?) stop cutting about 
2/3 of the way through the log.
Turn the log and finish the cut from the opposite side.
The log is supported at one end. There is a high risk 
that it will split.
Start by cutting from below (about 1/3 of the way through).
Finish by cutting from above so that the two cuts meet.
The log is supported at both ends. There is a high risk 
that the chain will jam.
Start by cutting from above (about 1/3 of the way through).
Finish by cutting from below so that the two cuts meet.
Tree felling technique
Safe distance
The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and 
anyone else working nearby is at least 2 1/2 tree lengths. 
Make sure that no-one else is in this ”risk zone” before or 
during felling.
!
WARNING! Never attempt to cut logs 
while they are in a pile or when a couple 
of logs are lying together. Such 
procedures drastically increase the risk 
of kickback which can result in a serious 
or fatal injury.
12
3
IMPORTANT! It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree. 
Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees. 
Do not attempt any task that you feel unsure of! 
						

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
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Felling direction
The aim is to fell the tree in a position where you can limb 
and cross-cut the log as easily as possible. You want it to 
fall in a location where you can stand and move about 
safely.
Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall 
you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally.
Several factors affect this:
• Lean of the tree
• Bend
• Wind direction
• Arrangement of branches
• Weight of snow
• Obstacles within the reach of the tree: for example, 
other trees, power lines, roads and buildings.
• Look for signs of damage and rot in the stem, this 
makes it more probably that the tree will break and 
start to fall before you expect it to. 
You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural 
direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to 
make it fall in the direction you first intended.
Another very important factor, which does not affect the 
felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure 
the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might 
break off and hit you during felling.
The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another 
tree. It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and 
there is high accident risk. See instructions under the 
heading Freeing a tree that has fallen badly.
Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat
Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work 
from the top down and to have the tree between you and 
the saw.  
Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and 
check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, 
etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree 
starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 
degrees away from the intended felling direction.
1 Danger zone
2 Retreat path
3 Felling direction
Felling
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the 
directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the 
bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing 
these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction 
very accurately.
Directional cuts
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim 
using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal 
further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree 
to fall (2). Stand on the right-hand side of the tree, behind 
the saw, and cut with a pull stroke.IMPORTANT! During critical felling operations, hearing 
protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is 
completed so that sounds and warning signals can be 
heard.
!
WARNING! Unless you have special 
training we advise you not to fell trees 
with a diameter larger than the bar 
length of your saw!
1
2
1
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Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the 
end of the top cut.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter 
through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and 
bottom cut should be 45
°.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional 
cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at 
right angles (90
°) to the chosen felling direction.
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree 
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side 
of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the 
bottom directional cut.
Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the 
felling hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar 
slowly into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to 
move in the opposite direction to your intended felling 
direction. Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as 
soon as it is deep enough.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so 
that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the 
felling hinge.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling 
hinge is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional 
cuts and felling cut are badly placed.
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the 
tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling 
wedge or breaking bar.
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the 
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut 
and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See 
instructions under the heading Technical data section to 
find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your 
saw.
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger 
than the bar length. However these methods involve a 
much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will 
come into contact with the tree. 
						

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
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Freeing a tree that has fallen badly 
Freeing a ”trapped tree”
It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is 
high accident risk.
Never try to fell the tree that is trapped.
Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree.
The safest method is to use a winch.
• Tractor-mounted
• Portable
Cutting trees and branches that are in tension
Preparations: Work out which side is in tension and where 
the point of maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break 
if it was bent even more).
Decide which is the safest way to release the tension and 
whether you are able to do it safely. In complicated 
situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain 
saw and use a winch.
General advice:
Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or 
branch when the tension is released.
Make one or more cuts at or near the point of maximum 
tension. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as 
necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or 
branch break at the point of maximum tension.
Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is in 
tension! 
If you must cut across tree/limb, make two to three cuts, 
one inch apart, one to two inches deep.
Continue to cut deeper until tree/limb bends and tension 
is released.
Cut tree/limb from outside the bend, after tension has 
been released. 
						

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
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How to avoid kickback
What is kickback?
The word kickback is used to describe the sudden 
reaction that causes the chain saw and bar to jump off an 
object when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar, 
known as the kickback zone, touches an object.
Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the bar. 
Normally the chain saw and bar are thrown backwards 
and upwards towards the user. However, the chain saw 
may move in a different direction depending on the way it 
was being used when the kickback zone of the bar 
touched the object.
Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar 
touches an object.
Limbing
Make sure that you can stand and move about safely. 
Work on the left side of the trunk. Work as close as 
possible to the chain saw for maximum control. If possible, 
let the weight of the chain saw rest on the trunk.
Keep the trunk between you and the chain saw as you 
move along the trunk.
Cutting the trunk into logs
See instructions under the heading Basic cutting 
technique.
!
WARNING! Kickback can happen very 
suddenly and violently; kicking the 
chain saw, bar and chain back at the 
user. If this happens when the chain is 
moving it can cause very serious, even 
fatal injuries. It is vital you understand 
what causes kickback and that you can 
avoid it by taking care and using the 
right working technique.!
WARNING! A majority of kickback 
accidents occur during limbing. Do not 
use the kickback zone of the guide bar. 
Be extremely cautious and avoid 
contacting the log, other limbs or 
objects with the nose of the guide bar. 
Be extremely cautious of limbs under 
tension. They can spring back toward 
you and cause loss of control resulting 
in injury.