Global Garden Products Lawn Mower 98S 98S Hydro Instructions Manual

							4.8 STEERING GEOMETRY ADJUSTMENT
The correct steering geometry is given by the val-
ues of the interacentre distancexis between the
joints of the tension rod and the wheel connecting
rod. Any faults caused by knocks or accidents
result in reduced driving precision and increased
wear on the tyres. These can be overcome as fol-
lows:
–uneven or excessive wear on the front tyres =
toe-in adjustment,
–the lawn-tractor does not maintain a straight
line when the steering wheel is straight =
adjustment of tie-rods.
NOTE
Before any other action, check that the joint fasten-
ings have not become loose.
A) Toe-in adjustment
An exact toe-in is achieved with an centre distance
of 461 mm which is measured between the centres
of the articulated joints 
(1)of the wheel connection
rod 
(2). If a different distance is found, dismantle
one or both the joints and screw the necessary
amount down or up on the rod.
On assembly, fully tighten the locknuts 
(3)and the
fastening nuts 
(4)of the joints.
B) Adjustment of the steering wheel
Firstly check the toe-in (point “A”) and align the
front wheels.
If the steering wheel is not straight, dismantle the
articulated joint 
(5)and screw down or up on the
tie-rod 
(6)for the necessary amount.
On assembly, fully tighten the locknuts 
(7)and the
fastening nuts 
(8)and check that the tie-rod, in its
travel, 
does not interfere with parts or acces-
sories of the engine
even with the equaliser (9)
angled in both directions.
Tightening torques
3 - 7Locknuts for articulated joints   ... 25 ÷ 30 Nm
4 - 8Nuts for articulated joints  ........... 45 ÷ 50 Nm
3/2002
576
89
2
3
1
4
1
461 mm
2156
98S
4.8.0
STEERING GEOMETRY ADJUSTMENT





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							© by GLOBAL GARDEN PRODUCTS
98S
4.9.0
CHECKING BLADES ALIGNMENT





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4.9 CHECKING BLADES ALIGNMENT
Excessive vibration when cutting and an uneven
cut can be due to misalignment of the blades
owing to deformation of the flanges or the shafts
as a result of accidental knocks.

Lift the machine [see 2.3].
Always wear strong gloves when handling the
blades.
With the blades disengaged, firmly hold each blade
and bring the cutting edges together in the various
positions possible (A-B; A-B1; A1-B1; A1-B). At
each position they should be aligned to within 2
mm.
If higher amounts are found, check that the blades
are not distorted. If this is not the case, check the
supports or the shafts for the blades [see 6.9],
replacing if necessary, and check the condition of
the point where the flange rests on the cutting deck.
IMPORTANT!
Always replace damaged blades and do not
attempt to repair or straighten them. Always use
manufacturer’s genuine spare parts!
3/2002
A
A1BB1
< 2 mm 
						

							4.10 SHARPENING AND BALANCING OF THE
BLADES
A badly sharpened blade causes grass to
become yellow and reduces grass collection
capability. If not balanced, excessive vibration
can be caused during use.
Always wear protective gloves when handling
the blades and protect eyes when sharpening.
For removing a blade it must be firmly held and the
central screw 
(1)undone, bearing in mind that:
A) Sharpening
Sharpen the blade (2)using a medium grade
grinder.
Sharpen both cutting edges of the blades, removing
as little material as possible for a length of about
160 mm, and make sure that the cutting edge is
parallel to the blade axis.
The blade is to be replaced when the cutting edge
has worn down to 8 mm.
B) Balancing
Using the appropriate equipment, check the bal-
ance to make sure that there is a maximum differ-
ence of 2 grams between one side and the other.
On reassembly, ensure that the splines 
(3) are cor-
rectly positioned on the shafts, the wings on the
blades are turned towards the inside of the deck
and that the concave part of the spring disc 
(4)is
pressing against the blade.
Tightening torques
1Screw for blade   ............................. 45 ÷ 50 Nm
1414
4
1
3
2
3/2002
2
2160 mm
max 8 mm
1
1
98S
4.10.0
SHARPENING AND BALANCING OF THE BLADES





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98S
5.1.0
REMOVAL OF FRONT HOOD





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5.1 REMOVAL OF FRONT HOOD
The removal of the front hood gives greater
accessibility to:
–the engine and its accessories,
–the silencer and protection devices.
➤In models with lights:
disconnect the connector (1).
The hood can be secured in two ways.
A) Fixing with springs
Unhook the two fastener springs (2)and pull out the
pins 
(3).
B) Fixing with a split pin
Take out the split pin (4)from the right-hand side
and remove the hood by moving it to the right.
3/2002
4
1
23 
						

							5.2 REMOVAL OF THE WHEEL COVER
Removing the wheel covers gives access to:
–the mount for the lever to raise the deck;
–the supports of the footboards.
A) Removal of the rear cover
The rear cover (1) is secured to the wheel cover by
two screws 
(2)located behind the seat and two
screws 
(3)on the lower part.
B) Removal of the wheels cover
Take off the spring (4)which holds the battery (5),
taking care to prevent it accidentally short-circuit-
ing. Disconnect and remove the battery 
(5).
➤In mechanical drive models: unscrew the
knob from the blade engagement lever 
(6)and
the knob from the gear lever
(7).  
➤In hydrostatic drive models: unscrew the
knob from the blade engagement lever 
(6)and
the drive pedal 
(8). 
Loosen the internal screws 
(9)and remove the seat
springs 
(10). Take off the seat after removing the
two pins 
(11).
8
45
9
10
11
7
6
1
3
12
2
3/2002
98S
5.2.0
REMOVAL OF THE WHEEL COVER





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							© by GLOBAL GARDEN PRODUCTS
98S
5.2.0
REMOVAL OF THE WHEEL COVER





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The cover (12) is held by a screw at the front (13),
four screws 
(14)at the bottom of the dashboard
support and six screws 
(15)under the side foot-
board. The two back ones 
(15a)of these last
screws have a washer.
When the cutting height lever has been moved to
position «7» and the engage lever to the “blades
engaged” position, it is possible to remove the
cover.
3/2002
12
1515
15a
14
12
13 
						

							5.3 REMOVAL OF THE FUEL TANK
Removing the fuel tank gives access to:
–the steering wheel column and the ring gear;
–the brake adjustment spring 
(➤in mechanical
drive models)
;
–the accelerator fastening screws.
Completely empty the tank through the pipe at the
entry to the fuel filter 
(1), taking care not to spill
fuel
.
Remove the electronic card, take off the lower part
of the protective cover 
(2).
Loosen the screw 
(3)holding the support (4)and lift
the tank until the two pegs 
(5) come out of the lower
support.
On reassembling, remember to fit the clamp back
on the fuel pipe and 
check that it does not leak.
3/2002
4
3
5
2
1
98S
5.3.0
REMOVAL OF THE FUEL TANK





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							5.4 REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE
Since there are different types of drive, the stages
described here refer to those shared or similar in
all types of engine.

Remove the front hood [see 5.1].
Disengage the blades to loosen the belt. In order to
have better access to the parts concerned, also the
drive belt should be loosened.
This is done by ...
➤In mechanical drive models: engaging the
parking brake 
➤In hydrostatic drive models: loosening the
nut 
(1)of the stretcher.. 
Shift the mobile guide pulley 
(2)backwards and free
the belt 
(3)from the pulley (4).
Undo the central screw 
(5)and take out the pulley
(6) from the shaft.
If it is difficult to take out, use the special extractor #
code 60253000/0 inserted into the holes 
(7)of the
pulley, but do not completely undo the screw 
(5)so
that the extractor puts pressure on the head of the
screw and does not damage the threaded hole of
the shaft.
Remove the protection from the exhaust 
(8)and
disconnect the cable control from the accelerator
and all the electrical wires.
Detach the fuel line pipe,
taking care not to spill
fuel
.
8
4/2005
56
7
2
43
1
98S
5.4.1
REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE





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							Find and undo all the screws securing the engine to
the cutting deck, grip the engine firmly and lift it
carefully, bearing in mind that its weight is around
35 kg.
NOTE
Some type of engine are held with screws of differ-
ent length and in different positions, so it is best to
label them so that no errors are made on reassem-
bly.
On reassembly, fully tighten the screws for the
engine and the pulley to the amounts shown.
Remember to fit the clamp back on the fuel pipe
and 
check that it does not leak. Reattach all the
electrical and earth contacts and refit the protection
covers (if fitted).
➤In hydrostatic drive models: reset the ten-
sion of the stretcher spring [see 4.4]. If only the
front nut 
(1)has been loosened without having
touched the rear one, the right tension will be
achieved by just tightening up the nut 
(1).
Reattach the accelerator cable and ...  

Adjust the «MINIMUM» position [see 6.10].

Refit the front hood [see 5.1].
Tightening torques
5Screw for pulley  ............................... 45 ÷ 50 Nm
–Screws for engine fastening  ............. 25 ÷ 30 Nm
4/2005
98S
5.4.1
REMOVAL OF THE ENGINE





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							5.5 REMOVAL OF THE REAR AXLE
The rear axle (Transaxle) is made up of single
maintenance free sealed unit which includes the
transmission unit  ( 
➤mechanical or  ➤hydrosta-
tic) and the differential.  
It only needs to be removed to be replaced or for
an overhaul by the Manufacturer’s Service Centre.
Put a block (2)of adequate thickness under the rear
plate [see 2.3] and take off the rear wheels.
The drive belt should also be loosened.
This is done by ...
➤In mechanical drive models:  engaging the
parking brake.
➤In hydrostatic drive models:  loosening the
nut 
(1) of the stretcher. 
Disconnect the spring 
(3)of cable spring by loosen-
ing the adjuster
(4)and taking off the barrel (5)at
the end of the fork 
(6). The dismantling procedure
differs slightly depending on the various types of
drives used.
➤In mechanical drive models: 
Dismantle the guide pulley (7)from the rear plate
and detach the gear lever 
(8)by loosening the
screw 
(9)and the brake control rod (10). Then
disconnect the cables from the microswitch sig-
nalling “neutral” (
12).
7
3
4
3
6
5
26
25
2
1
3/2002
98S
5.5.0
REMOVAL OF THE REAR AXLE





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