Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
69
3
Flat Fell Seam
Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges 
neatly.
a
aa aSelect   and attach presser foot  “J” .
b
bb
bSew the finish line, then cut half of the seam 
allowance from the side on which the flat 
fell seam will lie.
* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic 
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement 
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning 
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
button to sew a...

SEWING THE STITCHES
70
c
cc cSelect   and attach presser foot  “I” .
d
dd
dSew a straight stitch along the fold.
* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic 
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement 
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning 
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the 
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a Width for pintuck
b Wrong side
c Surface
e
ee eIron the folds in the same direction.
a
Icb 

SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
71
3
Zigzag Stitches 
Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications. 
Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”. 
If the stitch which you select has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse 
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.
If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement 
stitches by holding the...

SEWING THE STITCHES
72

Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) 
Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it 
over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch 
bridges both pieces of fabric.

Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag 
Stitch) 
Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine 
stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with 
the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the 
curve.

Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a 
Zigzag Stitch)
a
aa aRemove the bobbin cover from the machine 
(see page 27)....

SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
73
3
Elastic Zigzag Stitches 
Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses.
a
aa aSelect a stitch. 
b
bb
bAttach presser foot  “J” . 

 Tape Attaching 
Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, 
sew the tape to the fabric.
a Tape 

Overcasting 
Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of 
stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge 
of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side...

SEWING THE STITCHES
74
Overcasting 
Use for the beginning and end of seams in skirts or trousers, and the beginning and end of all cuttings. 
Use presser foot “G”, presser foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting 
stitch you select. 

Overcasting Using Presser Foot  “G ” 
a
aa aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot  “G ”.
b
bb
bLower the presser foot so that the presser 
foot guide is set flush against the edge of the 
fabric.
c
cc cSew along the presser foot guide....

SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
75
3

Overcasting Using Presser Foot  “J”  
a
aa aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “ J”.
b
bb
bSew with the needle dropping slightly off 
the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop position 
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Overcasting stitch Reinforced seaming of stretch 
fabric5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.5 - 4.0
(1/32 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting...

SEWING THE STITCHES
76

Overcasting Using the Side Cutter
By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.
a
aa aSelect a stitch.
b
bb
bFollow the steps on page 37 to remove the 
presser foot.
c
cc cPosition the fork on the side cutter ’s 
operating lever onto the needle clamp 
screw.
a Needle clamp screw
b Operating lever 
 CAUTION
Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit 
the presser foot and break, possibly...

SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
77
3
d
dd dPosition the side cutter so that the side 
cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the 
presser foot holder, and then lower the 
presser foot.
a Notch in presser foot holder
b Pin
→ The side cutter is attached.
e
ee eMake a cut of approximately 20 mm 
(approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.
a 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) 
f
ff fPosition the fabric so that the right side of 
the cut is on top of the guide plate and the 
left side of the cut is underneath the presser...

SEWING THE STITCHES
78

When Sewing Straight Stitches 
While Using the Side Cutter
The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm 
(approx. 3/16 inch).
a Seam margin 
Memo
The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is 
simply spread out underneath the presser 
foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained 
in step 
f from the previous section, and 
then start sewing. 
 One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.
 Clean the side cutter after use to avoid hav-
ing dust and scraps of thread build up on it....