American Water Heater 40 Gallon 38000 BTU Direct Vent Natural Gas Water Heater DVG6240S38NOV user manual

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 STRANGE  SOUNDS
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some 
metal parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down do 
not necessarily represent harmful or dangerous conditions.
Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the 
burner area during heating and cooling periods and should 
be considered normal. See “Condensate” in this section.
Sediment collecting over time in the bottom of the tank 
can result in “rumbling” or “percolating” sounds. Follow 
the directions given in “Draining, Refi lling And Flushing”.
   OPERATIONAL  CONDITIONS
 Smelly  Water
In each water heater there is installed at least one anode 
rod (see Figure 1, item 22) for corrosion protection of the 
tank. Some models will have an additional anode which 
is connected to the hot water outlet nipple (see Figure 1, 
item 23). Certain water conditions will cause a reaction 
between the anode rod and the water. The most common 
complaint associated with the anode rod is one of a “rotten 
egg smell” in the hot water. The smell is a result of four 
factors which must all be present for the odo r to develop:
1.  A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.
2.  Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.
3.  A sulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated 
within the water heater (this harmless bacteria is 
nontoxic to humans).
4.  An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is 
caused by the corrosion protective action of the anode.
For certain water conditions, setting the gas control valve/
thermostat at  140°F  can reduce the smell generated in 
the water heater.
Note: Under these conditions install a mixing valve to limit 
the temperature of the water delivered to the system (see 
“Water Piping” section).
Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water 
heater models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less 
active material, and then chlorinating the water heater tank 
and all water lines. Contact the local water heater supplier 
or service agency for further information concerning an 
Anode Replacement Kit and this chlorination treatment.
If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement 
and chlorination treatment, we can only suggest that 
chlorination or aeration of the water supply be considered 
to eliminate the water problem.
Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected. By 
doing so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided. “Air” In Hot Water Faucets
HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in 
a hot water system that has not been used for a long 
period of time (generally two weeks or more). Hydrogen 
gas is extremely fl ammable and explosive. To prevent the 
possibility of injury under these conditions, we recommend 
the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be opened for 
several minutes before any electrical appliances which 
are connected to the hot water system are used (such 
as a dishwasher or washing machine). If hydrogen gas is 
present, there will probably be an unusual sound similar 
to air escaping through the pipe as the hot water faucet 
is opened. There must be no smoking or open fl ame near 
the faucet at the time it is open.
 High Water Temperature Shut Off System
This water heater is equipped with an automatic gas 
shut-off system. This system works when high water 
temperatures are present. Turn “OFF” the entire gas supply 
to the water heater. The high temperature shut-off is built 
into the gas control valve. It is non-resettable. If the high 
temperature shut-off activates, the gas control valve must 
be replaced. Contact your gas supplier or service agency.  
						

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MAINTENANCE
FOR YOUR SAFETY AND SATISFACTORY OPERATION, 
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THIS HEATER BE 
CHECKED ONCE A YEAR BY A COMPETENT SERVICE 
PERSON.
USERS OF THIS WATER HEATER SHOULD BE AWARE 
THAT GAS COMPONENTS WEAR OUT OVER A PERIOD 
OF TIME. THE GAS CARRYING COMPONENTS OF 
THIS WATER HEATER SHOULD BE INSPECTED FOR 
PROPER OPERATION PERIODICALLY BY A QUALIFIED 
SERVICE TECHNICIAN.
 HOUSEKEEPING
• Do not obstruct combustion air 
openings at the vent termination 
hood.
• Do not use or store flammable 
vapor products such as gasoline, 
solvents or adhesives in the same 
room or area near water heater, 
the vent termination hood, or other 
appliance.
• Can cause serious injury or death.Fire and Explosion Hazard
DANGER
 
INSTALLED IN SUITABLE AREA:
To ensure sufficient ventilation and combustion air 
supply, proper clearances from the water heater must 
be maintained. See “Locating The New Water Heater” 
section. Combustible materials such as clothing, cleaning 
materials, or fl ammable liquids, etc. must not be placed 
against or adjacent to the water heater which can cause 
a fi re.
 FLOOD  DAMAGE
Flood damage to a water heater may not be readily visible 
or immediately detectable. However, over a period of time 
a fl ooded water heater will create dangerous conditions 
which can cause DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, 
OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. Contact a qualifi ed installer or 
service agency to replace a fl ooded water heater. Do not 
attempt to repair the unit! It must be replaced!
 VENTING SYSTEM INSPECTION
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made 
of the venting system. You should look for:
1.  Obstructions which could cause improper venting. 
The combustion and ventilation air fl ow must not be 
obstructed.
2.  Damage or deterioration which could cause improper 
venting or leakage of combustion products.
Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent 
escape of dangerous fl ue gasses which could cause 
deadly asphyxiation.
Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present 
serious health risk or asphyxiation.
Chemical vapo r corrosion of the fl ue and vent system 
may occur if air for combustion contains certain chemical 
vapo rs. Spray can propellants, cleaning solvents, 
refrigerator and air conditioner refrigerants, swimming pool 
chemicals, calcium and sodium chloride, waxes, bleach 
and process chemicals are typical compounds which are 
potentially corrosive.
If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or 
deterioration, something is wrong. Call the local gas utility 
to correct the problem and clean or replace the fl ue  and 
venting before resuming operation of the water heater.
Breathing carbon monoxide can cause brain damage or death. 
Always read and understand instruction manual.
• Flue gases may escape if vent pipe is not 
connected.
• Be alert for obstructed, sooted or deteriorated 
vent system to avoid serious injury or death.
• Do not store corrosive chemicals in vicinity of 
the water heater or the vent termination hood.
• Chemical corrosion of flue and vent system 
can cause serious injury or death.
Breathing Hazard - Carbon Monoxide Gas
WARNING
 PILOT AND MAIN BURNER
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made 
of the main burner and the pilot assembly for proper fl ame 
characteristics. This can be done by removing the Outer 
Door and viewing the main burner operation through the 
Viewport on the Inner Door (see Figure 38). The main 
burner should provide complete combustion of gas, ignite 
rapidly, give reasonably quiet operation, and cause no 
excessive fl ame lifting from the burner ports. If the proper 
fl ame characteristics are not evident (see Figure 32), 
make sure that the fl ow of combustion and ventilation 
air is not blocked in the venting system. You should also 
check for sooting. Soot is not normal and will impair proper 
combustion.
Soot build-up indicates a problem that requires correction 
before further use. Turn “OFF” gas to water heater and 
leave off until repairs are made, because failure to correct 
the cause of the sooting can result in a fi re causing death, 
serious injury, or property damage.
If proper fl ame characteristics are not evident, call your 
service agency to remove and clean the burner and correct 
any operational problem. 
						

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 BURNER  FLAMES
Inspect the burner flames through the viewport and 
compare them to the drawings in Figure 32. A properly 
operating burner should produce a soft blue fl ame.  Blue 
tips with yellow inner cones are satisfactory. The tips of the 
fl  ame may have a slight yellow tint. The fl  ame should not be 
all yellow or have a sharp blue-orange colo r. Contaminated 
air may cause an orange colo red fl  ame. Contact a qualifi ed 
service technician if the fl ame is not satisfactory
CORRECT FLAME 
SOFT BLUE
INCORRECT 
FLAME LAZY 
YELLOW
TIPS MAY HAVE 
A YELLOW TINT
YELLOW INNER 
CONES ARE 
SATISFACTORY
Figure 32 
 SERVICING THE WATER HEATER
Servicing this water heater shall be done by qualifi ed 
service personnel only.
1.  Before performing any maintenance, it is important 
to turn “OFF” the gas supply to the water heater at 
the manual gas shut-off valve. This valve is typically 
located beside the water heater. Note the position of 
the shut-off valve in the open/on position, then proceed 
to turn it “OFF” (see Figure 1).
2.  With the water heater shut-off, allow suffi cient time for 
the it to cool off before performing any service.
   REMOVING AND REPLACING THE GAS CONTROL 
VALVE/THERMOSTAT
 Removing The Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:
1.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob to the “OFF” 
position (see Figure 31 and Figure 33).
2.  Turn “OFF” the gas at the manual gas shut-off valve 
(see Figure 1).
3.  Drain the water heater. Refer to the “Draining, Refi lling 
And Flushing” section and follow the procedure.
4.  Disconnect the igniter wire from the igniter lead wire. 
Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the thermopile 
connector. Disconnect the pilot tube (7/16” wrench) 
and manifold tube (3/4” wrench) at the gas control 
valve/thermostat (see Figure 33).
Note: Propane (LP) Gas systems use reverse (left-hand) 
threads on the manifold tube.
5.  Refer to “Gas Piping” and disconnect the ground joint 
union in the gas piping (see Figure 13 & Figure 14). 
Disconnect the remaining pipe from the gas control 
valve/thermostat.
6.  To remove the gas control valve/thermostat, thread a 
  4”  section of gas pipe into the inlet and use it to turn 
the gas control valve/thermostat (counterclockwise). 
Do not use a pipe wrench or equivalent to grip body. 
Damage may result, causing leaks. Do not insert 
any sharp objects into the inlet or outlet connections. 
Damage to the gas control valve/thermostat may 
result.
   Replacing The Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:
To replace the gas control valve/thermostat, reassemble 
in reverse order. When replacing the gas control valve/
thermostat, thread a  4”  section of gas pipe into the inlet and 
use it to turn the gas control valve/thermostat (clockwise). 
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN; damage may result.
• Be sure to use approved Tefl on® tape or pipe joint 
compound on the gas piping connections and fi tting 
on the back of the gas control valve that screws into 
the tank.
• Be sure to remove the pilot ferrule nut from the new gas 
control valve/thermostat. Reconnect the manifold tube, 
pilot tube, igniter wire and the thermopile connections.
• Turn the main gas supply “ON” and check the gas 
supply connections for leaks. Correct any leak found.
• Light the pilot and main burner, then check the manifold 
tube and pilot tube connections for leaks. Use an 
approved noncorrosive leak detection solution. If such 
a solution is not available, use a mixture of hand dish 
washing soap and water (one part soap to 15 parts 
water) or childrens’ soap bubble solution. Bubbles 
forming indicate a leak. Correct any leak found.
• Be sure tank is completely fi lled with water before 
lighting and activating the water heater. Follow the 
lighting instructions on the label or see “Lighting 
Instructions” to restart the water heater.
If additional information is required, reference the number 
on the cover of this manual for service information.
TEFLON® is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and 
Company
   REMOVING THE MANIFOLD/BURNER ASSEMBLY
1.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob to the “OFF” 
position (see Figure 31 and Figure 33).
2.  Turn “OFF” the gas at the manual gas shut-off valve 
(see Figure 1).
IGNITER
WIRERED WIRE PILOT
TUBE
MANIFOLD TUBE IGNITER
BUTTON
IGNITER
LEAD
WIREWHITE
WIRE GAS CONTROL/
TEMPERATURE 
KNOB
THERMOPILE 
CONNECTOR
Figure 33 
3.  Remove the outer door.
4.  Disconnect the following from the gas control valve/
thermostat: pilot tube (7/16” wrench), igniter wire (from 
the igniter lead wire), and manifold tube (3/4” wrench) 
(see Figure 33).
Note: Propane (LP) Gas systems use reverse (left-hand) 
threads on the manifold tube.
5.  Use needle nose pliers to disconnect the thermopile 
connector from the gas control valve/thermostat (see 
Figure 33).
6.  Grasp the manifold tube and push down slightly to   
						

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free the manifold tube and pilot tube.
7.  Remove the screws (1/4” nut driver) securing the 
manifold/burner assembly to the combustion chamber 
(Figure 34).
8.  Carefully remove the manifold/burner assembly 
from the combustion chamber. BE SURE NOT TO 
DAMAGE ANY INTERNAL PARTS.
VIEWPORTPILOT TUBE
MANIFOLD 
DOOR
MANIFOLD COMPONENT 
BLOCKMANIFOLD 
TUBE
OUTER DOOR 
NOT SHOWNMANIFOLD
SCREW (2) GAS CONTROL 
VALVE/THERMOSTATTHERMOPILE
WIRE
CONNECTIONS GAS CONTROL/
TEMPERATURE 
KNOB
PIEZO IGNITER 
BUTTON
Figure 34 
 REMOVING THE BURNER FROM THE MANIFOLD/
BURNER ASSEMBLY
 Natural Gas (Low Nox) & Propane (LP) Gas Burner
1.  Take off the burner by removing the two (2) screws 
located underneath the burner.
2.  Check the burner to see if it is dirty or clogged. The 
burner may be cleaned with soap and hot water (see 
Figure 35).
Important: DO NOT remove the orifi ce.
SCREWS
BURNER 
(BOTTOM VIEW)PILOT 
ASSEMBLY 
(BOTTOM VIEW)
KEEP DRAIN 
HOLE IN THIS 
POSITION
Figure 35 
3.  When replacing the burner, ensure the drain hole is 
in the position shown in Figure 35.
 REPLACING THE PILOT/THERMOPILE ASSEMBLY
1.  Remove the manifold door assembly as described in 
“Removing The Manifold/Burner Assembly” section.
2.  Remove the burner to access the pilot/thermopile 
assembly. Remove and keep the screws securing the 
burner to the manifold (see Figure 35).
Important: DO NOT remove the orifi ce.
3.  Remove the screw securing the pilot/thermopile 
assembly to the pilot bracket and keep for reuse later 
(see Figure 36 & Figure 39).
4.  Lift the retainer clip straight up from the back of 
the manifold component block (using a fl at-blade 
screwdriver), then remove the manifold component 
block from the manifold door (see Figure 36).
Important: Be careful not to bend or alter the position of 
the pilot tube. It will be used as a bending template for the 
new pilot assembly. Note the placement/order of the wires 
in the manifold component block.
BURNER AND 
OTHER FITTINGS 
NOT SHOW FOR 
CLARITY.
PILOT/THERMOPILE 
ASSEMBLY SCREW THERMOPILE 
CONNECTORPILOT 
TUBE
IGNITER 
WIRE
MANIFOLD 
COMPONENT 
BLOCKRETAINER 
CLIP
MANIFOLD 
DOOR PILOT/THERMOPILE 
ASSEMBLY
GASKET
TA B
BRACKETSLOT
VIEWPORT
Figure 36 
5.  Lift the pilot/thermopile assembly (including the igniter 
wire) from the manifold assembly (see Figure 37).
6.  Read this step carefully before proceeding. Using the 
old pilot/pilot tube assembly as a guide, bend the new 
pilot tube to match the old one. Make only the bends 
closest to the pilot before going to the next step.
THERMOPILE 
WIRES
THERMOPILE 
CONNECTOR
PILOT TUBE NOT 
SHOWN FOR CLARITY IGNITER 
CONNECTOR
PILOT/
THERMOPILE 
ASSEMBLY THERMOPILE
PILOT
Figure 37 
7.  Route the new pilot tube, igniter wire and thermopile 
wires through the opening in the manifold door (see 
Figure 36).    
						

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8.  Using the pilot screw removed earlier, attach the new 
pilot/thermopile assembly. Reattach the burner to the 
manifold using the screws removed earlier.
9.  Reinstall the manifold component block in the 
manifold door. Ensure that the pilot tube and wires 
are positioned as shown in Figure 38.
MANIFOLD
COMPONENT
BLOCK
PILOT TUBE PASSES 
THROUGH TOP 
HOLE OF MANIFOLD 
COMPONENT BLOCK 
(LARGEST HOLE)IGNITER WIRE 
PASSES THROUGH 
CENTER OF MANIFOLD 
COMPONENT BLOCK 
(SMALLEST HOLE) THERMOPILE WIRES 
PASS THROUGH 
BOTTOM HOLE 
OF MANIFOLD 
COMPONENT BLOCK
VIEWPORT
Figure 38 
10.  Carefully bend the new pilot tube to match the bend 
of the manifold tube.
Note: When bending, DO NOT crimp or crease the pilot 
tube.
11.  Before you proceed to the next step, install the new 
brass ferrule nut in the gas control valve/thermostat’s 
pilot tube opening, HAND TIGHT ONLY.
12. Install the manifold/burner assembly. Refer to the 
“Replacing The Manifold/Burner Assembly” section 
for instructions.
   REPLACING THE MANIFOLD/BURNER ASSEMBLY
1.  Check the door gasket for damage or imbedded debris 
prior to installation (see Figure 36).
2.  Inspect the viewport for damage and replace as 
required (see Figure 36).
3.  Insert the new manifold/burner assembly into the 
burner compartment, making sure that the tab of the 
manifold tube engages the slot of the bracket inside 
the combustion chamber (see Figure 36).
4.  Inspect the door gasket and make sure there is no 
fi berglass insulation between the gasket and the 
combustion chamber (see Figure 36).
5.  Tighten the two screws that secure the manifold/burner 
assembly to the combustion chamber. (Use a 1/4” nut 
driver.) There should be no space between the gasket 
part of the manifold door and combustion chamber.Important: Do not operate the water heater if the door 
gasket does not create a seal between the manifold door 
and the combustion chamber.
6.  Reconnect the manifold tube (3/4” wrench) and pilot 
tube (7/16” wrench) to the gas control valve/thermostat 
(see Figure 33). Do not cross-thread or apply any 
thread sealant to the fi ttings.
Important: If you were supplied with a new ferrule nut in 
a parts kit, follow these steps to connect the pilot tube:
1.)  Install the ferrule nut into the gas valve at the pilot 
tube location, hand tight only.
2.)  Insert the pilot tube into the ferrule nut until the 
tube bottoms out, then tighten the nut with a 7/16” 
wrench until the crimp connection seals to the 
pilot tube.
3.)  Continue to tighten until the nut is tight in the gas 
valve.
Note: Propane (LP) Gas systems use reverse (left-hand) 
threads on the manifold tube.
7.  Connect thermopile connector to the gas control valve/
thermostat (see Figure 33).
8.  Reconnect the igniter wire (see Figure 33).
9.  Turn “ON” the gas supply to the water heater at the 
manual gas shut-off valve (see Figure 1).
10. Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see 
“Lighting Instructions” to restart the water heater. With 
the main burner lit, check for leaks at the manifold 
and pilot connections by brushing on an approved 
noncorrosive leak detection solution. If such a solution 
is not available, use a mixture of hand dish washing 
soap and water (one part soap to 15 parts water) 
or childrens’ soap bubble solution. Bubbles forming 
indicate a leak. Correct any leak found.
11.  Verify proper operation, then replace the outer door.
Explosion Hazard
Tighten both manifold door screws securely.
Remove any fiberglass between gasket and
combustion chamber.
Replace viewport if glass is missing
or damaged.
Replace manifold component block if miss-
ing or removed.
Replace door gasket if damaged.
Failure to do so can result in death,
explosion, or fire.
WARNING  
						

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 PIEZOELECTRIC IGNITER SYSTEM
The piezoelectric igniter system consists of the igniter 
button, electrode, and wire. The pilot is ignited by an 
electric spark generated when the igniter button is pressed 
(see Figure 39).
PILOT/
THERMOPILE
BRACKET
ELECTRODETHERMOPILE
PILOT
IGNITER BUTTONWIRE TO ELECTRODE
Figure 39 
 TESTING THE IGNITER SYSTEM
Turn “OFF” the gas to the water heater at the manual gas 
shut-off valve. Watch the electrode tip while activating the 
igniter. A visible spark should jump from the electrode. To 
avoid shock, do not touch the burner or any metal part 
on the pilot or pilot assembly. If no spark is visible, check 
the wire connections and make sure the electrode is not 
broken. Replace the igniter if defective. Dirt and rust on the 
pilot or electrode tip can prevent the igniter spark. Wipe 
clean with a damp cloth and dry completely. Rust can be 
removed from the electrode tip and metal surfaces by 
lightly sanding with an emery cloth or fi ne grit sandpaper.
 TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE TEST
It is recommended that the temperature-pressure relief 
valve be checked to ensure it is in operating condition at 
least once a year.
When checking the temperature-pressure relief valve 
operation, make sure that (1) no one is in front of or around 
the outlet of the T&P valve discharge line, and (2) that 
water discharge will not cause any property damage, as 
water may be extremely hot. Use care when operating 
valve as the valve may be hot.
To check the relief valve, lift lever at the end of valve 
several times (see Figure 40). The valve should seat 
properly and operate freely.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely 
reset and continues to release water, immediately close 
the cold water inlet to the water heater and drain the 
water heater, see “Draining, Refilling And Flushing” 
section. Replace the T&P valve with a properly rated/
sized new one, see “Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve” 
for instructions on replacement.
Figure 40 
If the Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve on the water 
heater weeps or discharges periodically, it may be due to 
thermal expansion.
Note: Excessive water pressure is the most common 
cause of temperature-pressure relief valve leakage. 
Excessive water system pressure is most often caused 
by “thermal expansion” in a “closed system.” See “Closed 
Water Systems” and “Thermal Expansion” sections of this 
manual. The T&P valve is not intended for the constant 
relief of thermal expansion.
• Burn hazard.
• Hot water discharge.
• Keep clear of 
temperature-pressure 
relief valve discharge.
BURN
HOT
HOT
DANGER
   DRAINING, REFILLING AND FLUSHING
Periodic draining and cleaning of sediment from the tank 
maybe necessary. It is recommended that the tank be 
drained and fl ushed every 6 months to remove sediment 
which may build up during operation. The water heater 
should be drained if being shut down during freezing 
temperatures or for an extended period of time. See 
“Typical Installation” section (Figure 1) in this manual for 
location of the water heater components described below.
 To Drain The Water Heater Storage Tank
1.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob to the “OFF” 
position (see Figure 31 and Figure 33).
2.  Turn “OFF” the gas supply at the manual gas shut-off 
valve.
3.  Close the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
4.  Open a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to 
allow for draining.
5.  Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to 
an adequate drain.
Note: If the water heater is going to be shut down and 
drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be 
left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate 
to an adequate drain.
6.  Open the water heater drain valve.
7.  Close the water heater drain valve when all water in 
the storage tank has drained.  
						

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 To  Refi ll The Water Heater Storage Tank
1.  Close the water heater drain valve.
2.  Remove the drain hose.
3.  Open a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to 
allow air to escape.
4.  Open the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
5.  To purge the lines of any excess air, keep the hot 
water faucet open for 3 minutes after a constant fl ow 
of water is obtained.
6.  Turn “ON” the gas supply at the manual gas shut-off 
valve.
7.  Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see 
“Lighting Instructions” to restart the water heater.
 To Flush The Water Heater Storage Tank
1.  Turn “OFF” the gas at the manual gas shut-off valve 
(see Figure 1).
2.  Ensure the cold water inlet valve is open.
3.  Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to 
an adequate drain.
4.  Ensure the drain hose is secured before and during the 
entire fl ushing procedure. Flushing is performed with 
system water pressure applied to the water heater.
5.  Open the water heater drain valve to fl ush the storage 
tank. Caution: Water will be hot.
6.  Flush the water heater storage tank to remove 
sediment and allow the water to fl ow until it runs clean.
7.  Close the water heater drain valve when fl ushing  is 
completed.
8.  Remove the drain hose.
9.  Ensure the heater is full of water.
10.  Turn “ON” the gas supply at the manual gas shut-off 
valve.
11.  Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see 
“Lighting Instructions” to restart the water heater.
12. Allow the water heater to complete several heating 
cycles to ensure it is operating properly.
Caution: Do not turn on the gas to the water heater 
unless the tank is full. Open a hot water faucet and allow 
the water to run until the air is purged and the water fl ows 
uninterrupted from the faucet.
Important: When operating a cold tank, condensation can 
occur and drip on the burner. This should not be confused 
with a tank leak.
 DRAIN VALVE WASHER REPLACEMENT
1.  Turn “OFF” the gas at the manual gas shut-off valve 
(see Figure 1).
2.  Follow “Draining” instructions in the “Draining, Refi lling 
And Flushing” section.
3.  Turning counterclockwise (
), remove the hex cap 
below the screw handle.
4.  Remove the washer and put the new one in place.
5.  Screw the handle and cap assembly back into the 
drain valve and retighten using a wrench. DO NOT 
OVER TIGHTEN.
6. Follow “Refi lling” instructions in the “Draining, Refi lling 
And Flushing” section.
7.  Check for leaks. Repair as needed.
8.  Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see 
“Lighting Instructions” to restart the water heater.
HANDLE AND 
CAP ASSEMBLY ALTERNATIVE 
STEM HANDLE
WASHER
Figure 41 
 ANODE ROD MAINTENANCE
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, 
which will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging 
the life of the water heater by protecting the glass-lined 
tank from corrosion. Adverse water quality, hotter water 
temperatures, high hot water usage, hydronic heating 
devices, and water softening methods can increase 
the rate of anode rod depletion. Once the anode rod 
is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually 
developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the 
anode rod and the water. The most common complaint 
associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” 
produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfi de  gas 
dissolved in the water. See “Operational Conditions”.
Important: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will 
void any warranties. A special anode rod may be available 
if water odo r or discolo ration occurs.
CAP
ANODE ROD *
* THE ANODE ROD IS COVERED 
BY URETHANE FOAM LOCATED 
UNDER THE CAP. CHIP AWAY 
THE FOAM TO EXPOSE THE 
TOP OF THE ANODE ROD 
Figure 42      
						

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Note: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odo r 
problems. The water supply system may require special 
fi ltration equipment from a water conditioning company to 
successfully eliminate all water odo r problems.
Artifi  cially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because 
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and 
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease 
the life of the water heater tank. The anode rod (see Figure 
42) should be inspected after a maximum of three years 
and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode 
rod dictates its replacement (see Figure 43).
EXPOSED 
SUPPORT 
WIRE
PITTED ANODE  ROD EXPOSED 
SUPPORT 
WIRE
Figure 43 
Note: Artifi cially softened water requires the anode rod to 
be inspected annually. The following are typical (but not 
all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
• The majority of the rods diameter is less than  3/8” .
• Signifi cant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or 
more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be 
replaced.
Note: Whether re-installing or replacing the anode rod, 
check for any leaks and immediately correct if found.
 To Remove The Anode Rod:
1.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob to the “OFF” 
position (see Figure 31 and Figure 33).
2.  Turn “OFF” the gas at the manual gas shut-off valve 
(see Figure 1).
3.  Shut off the incoming water supply to the water heater 
and open a nearby hot water faucet to depressurize 
the water tank.
4.  Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to 
adequate drain or to the exterior of the building. Open 
the drain valve and drain approximately  5 gallons  of 
water from tank. (Refer to “Draining, Refi lling  And 
Flushing” for proper procedures). Close drain valve 
and remove hose.
5.  Remove and retain the anode cap on top of the heater 
and remove and retain just enough insulation so you 
can access to the anode head (see Figure 42). Keep 
in a safe place for reinstallation later.
6.  Remove the anode rod by using a ratchet and a 
1-1/16” socket turning counter-clockwise (see Figure 
42). To Install The Anode Rod:
1. Use Tefl on
® tape or an approved pipe sealant on 
threads of the new anode rod.
2.  Place the anode rod in the spud (top of the tank) (see 
Figure 42) and turn clockwise until the threads are 
hand tight. Using a ratchet and 1-1/16” socket tighten 
down water tight.
3.  Open a nearby hot water faucet to purge air from 
the water line. Fill water heater tank completely. 
(Refer to “Draining, Refi lling And Flushing” for proper 
procedures).
Note: To assure the water heater tank is full, keep the hot 
water faucet open for 3 minutes after a constant fl ow  of 
water is obtained.
4.  After turning closing the hot water faucet, check for 
water leaks around anode rod and immediately correct 
any if found.
5.  Reinstall the insulation and anode cap which were 
removed in step 5 of removal process.
6.  Turn “ON” the manual gas shut-off valve (see Figure 
1).
7.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob to the “ON” 
position (see Figure 31 and Figure 33).
8.  Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see 
“Lighting Instructions” to restart the water heater. 
						

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americanwaterheater  
 
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LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS
 SERVICE
If a condition persists or you are uncertain about the 
operation of the water heater contact a service agency.
Use this guide to check a “Leaking” water heater (see 
Figure 44). Many suspected “Leakers” are not leaking 
tanks. Often the source of the water can be found and 
corrected.
If you are not thoroughly familiar with gas codes, your 
water heater, and safety practices, contact your gas 
supplier or qualifi ed installer to check the water heater.
Read this manual fi rst. Then before checking the water 
heater make sure the gas supply has been turned “OFF”, 
and never turn the gas “ON” before the tank is completely 
full of water.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely fi lled 
with water. To prevent damage to the tank, the tank must 
be fi lled with water. Water must fl ow from the hot water 
faucet before turning “ON” gas to the water heater.
D. Water at the vent assembly is water vapo r which has 
condensed out of the combustion products. This is 
caused by a problem in the vent. Contact the gas utility.
E.  *Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather 
or pipe connections may be leaking.
F.  *The anode rod fi tting may be leaking (anode is located 
under the plastic plug and insulation).
G. Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure 
relief valve may be due to thermal expansion or high 
water pressure in your area.
H.  *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking 
at the tank fi tting.
I.  Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being 
slightly opened.
J.  *The drain valve may be leaking at the tank fi tting.
K.  Combustion products contain water vapo r which can 
condense on the cooler surfaces of the tank. Droplets 
form and drip onto the burner or run on the fl oor. This 
is common at the time of start-up after installation and 
when incoming water is cold.
L.  Water in the water heater bottom or on the fl oor  may 
be from condensation, loose connections, or the relief 
valve. DO NOT replace the water heater until a full 
inspection of all possible water sources is made and 
necessary corrective steps taken.
M. The combo heating system connections may be 
leaking.
Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground 
seepage should also be checked.• * To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert 
cotton swab between jacket opening and fi  tting. If cotton 
is wet, follow the draining instructions in this manual, 
and then remove fi tting. Put pipe dope or Tefl on
® tape 
on the threads and replace. To refi ll the water heater 
follow the instructions in “Draining, Refilling And 
Flushing”.
F
G
I
H
D
E
A
BB
C
J
Figure 44    
						

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REFERENCE PARTS LISTING
Replacement parts may be ordered 
through your plumber or the local 
distributor. When ordering replacement 
parts, always have the following 
information ready:
1.  Model, Serial and Product number
2.  Type of gas
3. Item number
4. Parts description
1 Vent Termination Hood
2 Wall Plate
3 ***Vent Pipe
4 Cold Water Inlet Nipple/Diptube
6 T&P Valve
7 Gas Control Valve/Thermostat 
(Honeywell)
9 *Discharge Pipe
10 Drain Valve
11 Outer Gas Door
12 Manifold Door Assembly (behind 
outer door) (see Figure 3 & 
Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & 
Figure 48
)
13 *Floor Drain
14 *Metal Drain Pan15 Flexible Manifold Tube (see 
Figure 3 & Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & Figure 48)
22 Anode (under cap)
23 Hot Water Outlet Nipple (or Optional 
Nipple/Anode)
26 Air Inlet Snorkel
27 Air Tower
28 ***Airbox
29 *Thermal Expansion Tank (required 
for all closed systems)
30 Sheet Metal Burner (see Figure 3 & 
Figure 4) (see see also Figure 47 & 
Figure 48)
31 Gas Orifi ce (see Figure 3 & 
Figure 4) (see also Figure 47 & 
Figure 48)
32 Gas Manifold (see Figure 3 & Figure 
4) (see also Figure 47 & Figure 48)
33 Manifold Door Gasket (see Figure 3 & 
Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & Figure 48)
34 Manifold Door (see Figure 3 & Figure 
4) (see also Figure 47 & Figure 48)
35 Two Piece Grommet With Clip (see 
Figure 3 & Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & Figure 48)
36 Viewport (see Figure 3 & Figure 4) 
(see also 
Figure 47 & Figure 48)
37 Flexible Manifold Tube (see 
Figure 3 & Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & Figure 48)
38 Pilot (see Figure 3 & Figure 4) (see 
also 
Figure 47 & Figure 48)
39 Thermopile (see Figure 3 & 
Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & 
Figure 48
)
40 Pilot Shield (see Figure 3 & 
Figure 4) (see also 
Figure 47 & 
Figure 48
)
*  Items not supplied with the water 
heater.
***  During operation the vent pipe and 
airbox can get hot.
23
132
6
4
9
10
13
14
15
2
1112
4
7
22
22
Front View
Figure 45  Figure 46
26
1
27
28
Rear View