American Water Heater 30 Gallon 30000 BTU Flame Guard Standard Mobile Home Natural Gas Water Heater MFG6130T303N0V user manual

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VERY  HOT= approx. 160°F (71°C)About 1/2 second
C = approx. 150°F (66
°C)About 1-1/2 seconds
B = approx. 140°F (60°C) Less  than  5  seconds
A = approx. 130°F (54°C) About  30  seconds
 = approx. 120°F (49°C) More than 5 minutes
            = approx.  80°F (27°C) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
FIGURE 37.
FOR Y FOR YFOR Y FOR Y
FOR Y
OUR INFORMA OUR INFORMAOUR INFORMA OUR INFORMA
OUR INFORMA
TION TIONTION TION
TION
START UP CONDITIONS
CONDENSATE
Whenever the water heater is filled with cold water, some condensate
will form while the burner is on.  A water heater may appear to be leaking
when in fact the water is condensation.  This usually happens when:
a. A new water heater is filled with cold water for the first time.
b. Burning gas produces water vapor in water heaters, particularly
high efficiency models where flue temperatures are lower.
c. Large amounts of hot water are used in a short time and the refill
water in the tank is very cold.
NOTE:  A water temperature range of 120°F-140°F (49°C-60°C) is
recommended by most dishwasher manufacturers.
The thermostat of this water heater has been factory set at its lowest
position.  It is adjustable and must be reset to the desired temperature
setting to reduce the risk of scald injury.  The mark ( 
 ) indicative of
approximately 120°F (49°C) is preferred starting point.  Some States
have a requirement for a lower setting.
Turn the water temperature dial clockwise ( 
 ) to decrease the
temperature, or counterclockwise ( 
  ) to increase the temperature.
Should overheating occur or the gas supply fail to shut off, turn off the
manual gas control valve to the appliance.
                        
FIGURE 36.
 
TemperatureTime to Produce 2nd & 3rd
SettingsDegree Burns on Adult Skin
Short repeated heating cycles caused by small hot water uses can
cause temperatures at the point of use to exceed the thermostat setting
by up to 30°F (16.7°C). If you experience this type of use you should
consider using lower temperature settings to reduce scald hazards.
HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to produce
hot water.  Water heated to a temperature which will satisfy space
heating, clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing needs
can scald and permanently injure you upon contact.  Some people are
more likely to be permanently injured by hot water than others.  These
include the elderly, children, the infirm, or physically/mentally
handicapped.  If anyone using hot water in your home fits into one of
these groups or if there is a local code or state law requiring a certain
temperature water at the hot water tap, then you must take special
precautions.  In addition to using the lowest possible temperature setting
that satisfies your hot water needs, a means such as a mixing valve,
shall be used at the hot water taps used by these people or at the
water heater.  Mixing valves are available at plumbing supply or
hardware stores, see Figure 2.  Follow manufacturer’s instructions for
installation of the valves.  Before changing the factory setting on the
thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in this manual,
see Figures 36 and 37.
Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw their own
bath water.  Never leave a child or handicapped person unattended in
a bathtub or shower.
TEMPERA TEMPERATEMPERA TEMPERA
TEMPERA
TURE REGULA TURE REGULATURE REGULA TURE REGULA
TURE REGULA
TION TIONTION TION
TION
Moisture from the products of combustion condense on the cooler tank
surfaces and form drops of water which may fall onto the burner or
other hot surfaces to produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise.
Excessive condensation can cause pilot outage due to water running
down the flue tube onto the main burner and putting out the pilot.
Because of the suddenness and amount of water, condensation water
may be diagnosed as a “tank leak”.  After the water in the tank warms
up (about 1-2 hours), the condition should disappear.
Do not assume the water heater is leaking until there has been enough
time for the water in the tank to warm up.
An undersized water heater will cause more condensation.  The water
heater must be sized properly to meet the family’s demands for hot water
including dishwashers, washing machines and shower heads.
Lowest
Setting 
						

							22
Excessive condensation may be noticed during the winter and early
spring months when incoming water temperatures are at their lowest.
Good venting is essential for a gas fired water heater to operate properly
as well as to carry away products of combustion and water vapor.
SMOKE / ODOR
It is not uncommon to experience a small amount of smoke and odor
during the initial start-up.  This is due to burning off of oil from metal parts,
and will disappear in a short while.
THERMAL EXPANSION
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line
pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among
others, have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, check
valves, back flow preventers, etc. to control these types of problems.
When these devices are not equipped with an internal by-pass, and no
other measures are taken, the devices cause the water system to be
closed.  As water is heated, it expands (thermal expansion) and closed
systems do not allow for the expansion of heated water.
The water within the water heater tank expands as it is heated and
increases the pressure of the water system.  If the relieving point of
the water heater’s temperature-pressure relief valve is reached, the
valve will relieve the excess pressure.  The temperature-pressure
relief valve is not intended for the constant relief of thermal
expansion.  This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected.
It is recommended that any devices installed which could create a
closed system have a by-pass and/or the system have an expansion
tank or device to relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the
water 
system.  Expansion tanks are available for ordering through a
local plumbing contractor.  Contact the local water heater supplier or
service agency for assistance in controlling these situations.
STRANGE SOUNDS
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal parts
during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not necessarily represent
harmful or dangerous conditions.
Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area during
heating and cooling periods and should be considered normal.  See
“Condensation” in this section.
OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS
SMELLY WATER
In each water heater there is installed at least one anode rod (see
parts sections) for corrosion protection of the tank.  Certain water
conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water.  The
most common complaint associated with the anode rod is one of a
“rotten egg smell” in the hot water.  This odor is derived from hydrogen
sulfide gas dissolved in the water.  The smell is the result of four
factors which must all be present for the odor to develop:
a. A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.
b. Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.
c. A sulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated within the water
heater (this harmless bacteria is nontoxic to humans).
d. An excess of active hydrogen in the tank.  This is caused by the
corrosion protective action of the anode.
Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water heater
models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less active material, and
then chlorinating the water heater tank and all hot water lines.  Contact
the local water heater supplier or service agency for further information
concerning an Anode Replacement Kit and this chlorination treatment.
If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement and chlorination
treatment, we can only suggest that chlorination or aeration of the
water supply be considered to eliminate the water problem.
Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected.  By
doing so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.
“AIR” IN HOT WATER FAUCETS
HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water
system that has not been used for a long period of time (generally two
weeks or more).  Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable and explosive.
To prevent the possibility of injury under these conditions, we
recommend the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be opened
for several minutes before any electrical appliances which are
connected to the hot water system are used (such as a dishwasher or
washing machine).  If hydrogen gas is present, there will probably be
an unusual sound similar to air escaping through the pipe as the hot
water faucet is opened.  There must be no smoking or open flame near
the faucet at the time it is open.
HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE SHUT OFF SYSTEM
This water heater is equipped with an automatic gas Shut-off system.
This system works when high water temperatures are present. Turn
“OFF” the entire gas supply to the water heater.  The high temperature
Shut-off is built into the gas control valve.  It is non-resettable.  If the
high temperature Shut-off activates, the gas control valve must be
replaced. C
ontact your gas supplier or service agency. 
						

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VENTING SYSTEM INSPECTION
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the venting
system.  You should look for:
1. Obstructions which could cause improper venting.  The combustion
and ventilation air flow must not be obstructed.
2. Damage or deterioration which could cause improper venting or
leakage of combustion products.
3. Rusted flakes around top of water heater.
Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent escape of
dangerous flue gasses which could cause deadly asphyxiation.
Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present serious health
risk or asphyxiation.
Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue and vent system may occur if air
for combustion contains certain chemical vapors. Spray can propellants,
cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner refrigerants,
swimming pool chemicals, calcium and sodium chloride, waxes, bleach
and process chemicals are typical compounds which are potentially
corrosive.
If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or deterioration,
something is wrong.  Call the local gas utility to correct the problem and
clean or replace the flue and venting before resuming operation of the
water heater.
BURNER INSPECTION
Flood damage to a water heater may not be readily visible or immediately
detectable. However, over a period of time a flooded water heater will
create dangerous conditions 
which can cause DEATH, SERIOUS
BODILY INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. Contact a qualified installer
or service agency to replace a flooded water heater. Do not attempt to
repair the unit! It must be replaced!
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the main
burner and pilot burner, see Figure 38.
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE PERIODIC MAINTENANCEPERIODIC MAINTENANCE PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
You should check for sooting. Soot is not normal and will impair proper
combustion.
Soot build-up indicates a problem that requires correction before further
use.  Turn “OFF” gas to water heater and leave off until repairs are
made, because failure to correct the cause of the sooting can result in
a fire causing death, serious injury, or property damage.
           
FIGURE 38.
BURNER CLEANING
In the event your burner needs cleaning, follow these instructions:
If inspection of the burner shows that cleaning is required, turn the gas
control knob clockwise ( 
 ) to the “OFF” position, depressing slightly.
NOTE: The knob cannot be turned from “PILOT” to “OFF” unless
knob is depressed slightly.  DO NOT FORCE.
The burner needs to be removed for cleaning. Call  a service agency to
remove and clean the burner and correct the problem that required the
burner to be cleaned.
HOUSEKEEPING
Vacuum around base of water heater for dust, dirt, and lint on a regular
basis.
INSTALLED IN SUITABLE AREA: To insure sufficient ventilation and
combustion air supply, proper clearances from the water heater must
be maintained.  See “Locating the New Water Heater” section.
Combustible materials such as clothing, cleaning materials, or flammable
liquids, etc. must not be placed against or adjacent to the water heater
which can cause a fire. 
						

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ANODE ROD INSPECTION
The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion.  Most hot
water tanks are equipped with an anode rod.  The submerged rod
sacrifices itself to protect the tank.  Instead of corroding the tank,
water ions attack and eat away the anode rod.  This does not affect
the water’s taste or color.  The rod must be maintained to keep the tank
in operating condition.
Anode deterioration depends on water conductivity, not necessarily
water condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod indicates high water
conductivity and should be checked and/or replaced more often than
an anode rod that appears to be intact. Replacement of a depleted
anode rod can extend the life of your water heater. Inspection should
be conducted by a qualified technician, and at a minimum should be
checked annually after the warranty period.
TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE OPERATION
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at
least once a year.
When checking the temperature-pressure relief valve operation, make
sure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the temperature-
pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) that the water discharge
will not cause any property damage, as the water may be extremely
hot, see Figure 39.
FIGURE  39.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and
continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to
the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps or
discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion.  You
may have a check valve installed in the water line or a water meter
with a check valve.  Consult your local water supplier or service
agency for  further information.  Do not plug the temperature-pressure
relief valve.
DRAINING
The water heater should be drained if being shut down during freezing
temperatures.  Also periodic draining and cleaning of sediment from
the tank may be necessary.
1. Turn the gas control knob to the “OFF” position.
2. CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
3. OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow for
draining.
4. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to an adequate
drain.
5. OPEN the water heater drain valve to allow for tank draining.
NOTE: If the water heater is going to be shut down and
drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be
left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate
to an adequate drain.
6. CLOSE the drain valve.
7. Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.
8. Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see page 20 under
“Lighting Instructions” to restart the water heater.
DRAIN VALVE WASHER REPLACEMENT
(See Figure 40)
1. Turn “OFF” gas supply to water heater.
2. Follow “Draining” instructions.
3. Turning counterclockwise ( 
 ), remove the hex cap below the
screw handle.
4. Remove the washer and put the new one in place.
5. Screw the handle and cap assembly back into the drain valve and
retighten using a wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
6. Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.
7. Check for leaks.
8. Follow the lighting instructions on the “Lighting & Operating Label”
section to restart the water heater. 
						

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LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTSLEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS
LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS
Read this manual first.  Then before checking the water heater make
sure the gas supply has been turned “OFF”, and never turn the gas
“ON” before the tank is completely full of water.
A. *Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather or pipe
connections may be leaking.
B. *The anode rod fitting may be leaking.
C. Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure relief valve
may be due to thermal expansion or high water pressure in your
area.
D. *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking at the tank
fitting.
E. Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being slightly
opened.
F. *The drain valve may be leaking at the tank fitting.
G. Combustion products contain water vapor which can condense on
the cooler surfaces of the tank.  Droplets form and drip onto the
burner or run on the floor.  This is common at the time of start-up
after installation and when incoming water is cold.
H. Water in the water heater bottom or on the floor may be from
condensation, loose connections, or the relief valve.  DO NOT replace
the water heater until a full inspection of all possible water sources
is made and necessary corrective steps taken.
Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground seepage should
also be checked.
* To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert cotton swab
between jacket opening and fitting.  If cotton is wet, follow “Draining”
instructions in the “Periodic Maintenance” section and then remove
fitting.  Put pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads and replace.
Then follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions in the “Installing
the New Water Heater” section. FIGURE  40.
SERVICE
If a condition persists or you are uncertain about the operation of the
water heater contact a service agency.
Use this guide to check a “Leaking” water heater.  Many suspected
“Leakers” are not leaking tanks.  Often the source of the water can be
found and corrected.
If you are not thoroughly familiar with gas codes, your water heater,
and safety practices, contact your gas supplier or qualified installer to
check the water heater.
FIGURE  41. 
						

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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINESTROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES
These guidelines should be utilized by a qualified service agent.
ProblemCauseSolution
Improperly sealed, hot or cold supply connection, Tighten  threaded  connections.
relief valve, drain valve, or thermostat threads.
Leakage from other appliances or water lines. Inspect other appliances near water heater.
Condensation of flue products.Refer to CONDENSATION.
Thermal  expansion  in  closed  water  system. Install thermal expansion tank (DO NOT plug T&P valve).
Improperly seated valve. Check relief valve for proper operation
(DO NOT plug T&P valve).
High sulfate or mineral content in water supply. Drain and flush heater thoroughly, then refill.
Bacteria in water supply. Chlorinate or aerate water supply.
Dirty pilot burner. Clean pilot assembly.
Thermocouple tip is not in contact with pilot flame. Insert  thermocouple  correctly.
Thermocouple malfunction. Replace thermocouple.
Thermocouple malfunction. Check thermostat.
Gas knob dial not positioned correctly.Refer to LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS.
Pilot orifice clogged. Clean or replace pilot orifice.
Pinched or clogged pilot tube. Replace pilot tube.
Main gas supply off. Turn on main gas shut-off valve.
Heater not lit or thermostat not on.Refer to LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS.
Thermostat set too low.Refer to TEMPERATURE REGULATION.
Heater undersized. Reduce the hot water use.
Low gas pressure.Contact dealer.
Incoming water is unusually cold. Allow more time for heater to re-heat.
Leaking  hot  water  pipes  or  fixtures. Have a plumber check and repair leaks.
High temperature limit switch activated. Contact a Service Agency to determine cause.
Thermostat set too high.Refer to HIGH TEMPERATURE REGULATION.
Condensate dripping on burner.Refer to CONDENSATE.
Sediment at bottom of heater tank. Clean sediment from tank. Refer to DRAINING instructions
in Maintenance section of manual.
Improper combustion.Refer to FACTS TO CONSIDER ABOUT THE LOCATION,
see Figure 2 on page 6.
WATER LEAKS
LEAKING T&P VALVE
HOT WATER ODORS
PILOT OUTAGE
PILOT WILL NOT LIGHT
NOT ENOUGH OR
NO HOT WATER
WATER TOO HOT
WATER HEATER SOUNDS:
SIZZLING - RUMBLING
SOOTING 
						

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     Key No. Part Description
 1 Air Duct Assembly (12” to 24” Long)
2 Angle Bracket (2 Required)
3 Angle Bracket
4 Anode Rod
5 Sight Glass Assembly
6 Burner
7 Burner Manifold
8 Burner Orifice (Natural Gas)
8 Burner Orifice (Propane [L.P.] Gas)
9 Burner Access Door Assembly
10 Drain Pan
11 Drain Valve
#12 Drain Valve Washer (17/32”x13/64”x1/8” thick)*
13 10” Extension Pipe (Optional)
14 Flue Baffle
15 Gas Control Valve
16 Gasket - Air Intake
17 Piezo Igniter Assembly
18 Nipple w/Heat Traps
19 Outer Door
#20 Optional 3” Outside Wall
 Intake Air Vent Kit 9002986
#20 Optional 4” Outside Wall
Intake Air Vent Kit 9002987
21 Pilot Burner (Natural) Gas
21 Pilot Burner (Propane [L.P.] Gas)
22 Pilot Tubing w/Fittings
23 Pipe Insulation
24 Roof Jack 12” (9002964)
24 Roof Jack 32” (9002965)
24 Roof Jack 60” (9002966)
24 Roof Jack 95” (9002967)
25 Securing Clamp Assembly
26 T & P Insulation
27 Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve
28 Thermocouple
29 Thermostat Shield
30 Vent Cap
* These parts available at most hardware stores.
# Not Shown.
Now that you have purchased this water heater, should a need ever
exist for repair parts or service, simply contact the company it was
purchased from or direct from the manufacturer listed on the rating
plate on the water heater.
Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.
Selling prices will be furnished on request or parts will be
shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly.
The model number of your Gas Water Heater will be found on the
rating place located above the gas control valve.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
• MODEL NUMBER
• TYPE GAS (NATURAL OR PROPANE (L.P.)
• SERIAL NUMBER
• PART DESCRIPTION
THIS IS A REPAIR PARTS LIST, NOT A PACKING LIST.
REP REPREP REP
REP
AIR P AIR PAIR P AIR P
AIR P
ARTS LIST ARTS LISTARTS LIST ARTS LIST
ARTS LIST
BURNER ASSEMBLY
10
DRAIN PAN
29
THERMOSTAT SHIELD 
						

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