American Water Heater 30 Gallon 30000 BTU Flame Guard Standard Mobile Home Natural Gas Water Heater MFG6130T303N0V user manual

							11
ROOF JACK INSTALLATION
ROOF JACK KIT MODELS VENT KIT- 12 INCH (9002964), VENT KIT - 32 INCH (9002965),
VENT KIT - 60 INCH (9002966) AND VENT KIT - 95 INCH (9002967)
FIGURE  13.
1. Cut 5 1/2” diameter holes through the roof and ceiling directly in line
with the flue connection on top of the water heater. For a sloped roof,
the roof hole may have to be enlarged to allow the roof jack to be
installed vertically.
2. Telescope down the flue pipe in the roof jack assembly to a length
that will project at least 6” below the finished ceiling before installing
the roof jack assembly.
NOTE: Flue pipe joints have silicone seals that must remain in place. A
soapy water solution sprayed around the seal area will enable the flue
pipe and outer pipe below to telescope more freely.
3. Telescope down the outer pipe of the roof jack assembly to a length
that will project at least 2” below the finished ceiling before installing
the roof jack assembly, see Figure 14.
                       
FIGURE  14.4. Ease the roof jack assembly through the roof and ceiling openings.
The roof jack flashing tilts up to 22.6° degrees for use on a sloping
roof.
5. Use sealant or caulk on the roof to seal under flashing of the roof jack
assembly. Use roof nails or screws on wood construction or sheet
metal screws on metal roofs (nails and screws not provided), see
Figure 15.
                 
FIGURE  15.
NOTE: An optional Roof jack Extension Pipe (9002588) is required when
the roof pitch is 5 1/2” or greater, or where local codes require the roof
jack cap (outlet) terminate above the peak of the roof.
6. Remove the paper backing from the 1 1/2” x 9 3/4” woven tape seal
(found attached to the heater top) and apply the seal around the flue
collar of the water heater, see Figure 16 on page 12. 
						

							12
             
FIGURE  16.
7. Extend the flue pipe down close to the water heater flue collar, see
Figure 17.
                         
FIGURE  17.
8. Slide the securing clamp over the bottom of the flue pipe and pull the
pipe down over the flue collar. Locate vent securing clamp in top
and secure clamp with sheet metal screw. Tighten nut and bolt
clamp until flue pipe is tight in clamp, see Figure 18.
                                   
FIGURE  18.
NOTE: All joints for vent piping between roof jack and water heater are
sealed from the manufacturer. No additional sealing of vent pipe is
necessary.
MANUFACTURED HOME INSTALLED OVER
BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE - AIR INTAKE
THROUGH AN OUTSIDE WALL
ALL 30 AND 40 GALLON MODELS
3” PVC Schedule 40 intake air vent piping:
Optional Kit No. 9002986 contains a 3” PVC Schedule 40-45° vent cap
with screen and two 3” wall collars.
ALL 50 GALLON MODELS
4” PVC Schedule 40 intake air vent piping:
Optional Kit no. 9002987 contains a 4” PVC Schedule 40-45° vent cap
with screen and two 4” wall collars.ALL MODELS
1. PVC, ABS or CPVC Schedule 40 piping and fittings are acceptable
materials for the intake air vent system.
2. The intake air vent system must terminate horizontally to the outdoors.
3. Remove the screws which attach the wind baffle to the existing
metal air intake vent pipe underneath the home. Discard the wind
baffle and screws, see Figure 19.
                 
FIGURE  19.
4. Attach a 3” or 4” PVC street elbow to the metal air intake vent using
3 sheet screws. Continue PVC piping to outside wall and terminate
with vent cap and screen, see Figure 20.
3” size - 30 and 40 gallon models.
4” size - 50 gallon models.
See pages 13 and 14 for cementing instructions
FIGURE  20. 
						

							13
NOTE: Vent cap must be located a minimum of 12” above the ground.
5. Vertical and horizontal runs must be securely supported at 3 1/2
Foot intervals, see Figure 21.
FIGURE  21.
6. The intake air vent piping can be installed with no more than 3
elbows, see Figure 22.
         
FIGURE  22.
CUTTING OPENING THROUGH AN OUTSIDE WALL AND COLLAR
INSTALLATION
Determine the location of the opening in the wall and cut a 3 3/4” hole
(30 & 40 Gallon) or 4 3/4” hole (50 Gallon) through an outside wall.
The 3” or 4” PVC, ABS or CPVC Schedule 40 vent pipe can be run from
the water heater through the wall or from the wall to the water heater,
whichever is most convenient. The vent pipe must extend a minimum of
1 1/2” through the exterior wall. Note that the inside collar must be
slipped over the vent piping before locating the pipe through the wall.
Before securing the inside and outside collars to the wall, use a silicone
sealer between pipe and opening to insure a water and air tight seal,
see Figure 23. INSTALLATION SHOWING USE OF PVC, ABS OR CPVC PIPE
FIGURE  23.
NOTE: Wall collars are for aesthetic purposes and are not required for
the heater to operate.
CEMENTING PVC, ABS OR CPVC PIPE AND FITTINGS
Read and observe all safety information printed on primer, cleaner, and
cement containers.
Primer, cleaner, and cements are extremely flammable. They are harmful
or fatal if swallowed. The vapors are harmful. They may irritate eyes
and skin and can be absorbed through the skin.
Always store primer, cleaner, and cements in cool, dry, well ventilated
places. Keep containers closed. Use them in well ventilated areas.
Wear impervious clothing while handling. Do not smoke, eat, or drink
while handling. Wash thoroughly after handling and before eating.
Wear eye protection when handling. If swallowed, drink water, do not
induce vomitting, and call a physician or poison control center
immediately. If inhaled, get fresh air and seek medical attention if ill
feelings persist. In case of eye and skin contact, immediately flush with
plenty of water for 15 minuttes and seek medical attention if irritation
persists. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
All primers, cleaners, and cements must meet all local codes and
applicable standards of the American Society For Testing Materials
Standards.
Before using primers, cleaners and cements, stir or shake, making
sure contents are liquid. Do not use if found to be lumpy or jelly-like.
1. Cut pipe ends squarely removing all burrs and dirt.
2. Dry fit pipe and fittings to be connected for proper fit.
3. Clean pipe and fitting with primer/cleaner.
4. Apply a thin coat of cement to fitting, avoiding puddling inside.
5. Apply a liberal coat of cement to pipe leaving no voids.
6. QUICKLY assemble parts while cement is fluid! If you wait too long,
recoat pipes.
7. Push pipe completely into socket of fitting, turning as it goes until it
bottoms.
8. Hold pipe and fitting together for 30 seconds. Then carefully clean
off excess with a cloth. Allow connections a sufficient time to cure
before distrurbing.
9. Remember that vent pipes must be adequately and securely
supported. 
						

							14
APPROXIMATE SETTING TIME FOR 2 1/2” TO 4” PIPE JOINTS
MOVEMENTCOMPLETE
OF JOINT SET
90°F TO 150°F3/4HR. 8 HRS.
50°F TO 90°F 1 HR. 15 HRS.
0°f TO 50°F 1 1/3 HR. 18 HRS.
WATER PIPING
HOTTER  WATER  CAN  SCALD:
Water heaters are intended to produce hot water.  Water heated to a
temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish
washing, cleaning and other sanitizing needs can scald and
permanently injure you upon contact.  Some people are more likely to
be permanently injured by hot water than others.  These include the
elderly, children, the infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped.  If
anyone using hot water in your home fits into one of these groups or
if there is a local code or state law requiring a certain temperature
water at the hot water tap, then you must take special precautions.  In
addition to using the lowest possible temperature setting that satisfies
your hot water needs, a means such as a *mixing valve, shall be
used at the hot water taps used by these people or at the water
heater, see Figure 2.  Valves for reducing point of use temperature by
mixing cold and hot water are also available. Consult  a Qualified
Installer or Service Agency.  Follow  manufacturer’s instructions for
installation of the valves.  Before changing the factory setting on the
thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in this manual.
This water heater shall not be connected to any heating systems or
component(s) used with a non-potable water heating appliance.
Toxic chemicals, such as those used for boiler treatment shall not be
introduced into this system.
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line
pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among
others, have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, check
valves, back flow preventers, etc. to control these types of problems.
When these devices are not equipped with an internal by-pass, and no
other measures are taken, the devices cause the water system to be
closed.  As water is heated, it expands (thermal expansion) and closed
systems do not allow for the expansion of heated water.The water within the water heater tank expands as it is heated and
increases the pressure of the water system.  If the relieving point of
the water heater’s temperature-pressure relief valve is reached, the
valve will relieve the excess pressure.  The temperature-pressure
relief valve is not intended for the constant relief of thermal
expansion.  This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected.
It is recommended that any devices installed which could create a
closed system have a by-pass and/or the system have an expansion
tank to relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the water
system.  Expansion tanks are available for ordering through a local
plumbing contractor. 
 Contact the local water supplier and/or a service
agency for assistance in controlling these situations.
NOTE: To protect against untimely corrosion of hot and cold
water fittings, it is strongly recommended that di-electric
unions or couplings be installed on this water heater when
connected to copper pipe.
Figure 24 shows the typical attachment of the water piping to the
water heater.  The water heater is equipped with 3/4 inch NPT water
connections.
  
FIGURE 24.
T & P VALVE AND PIPE INSULATION
Remove insulation for T&P Valve and pipe connections from carton.
Fit pipe insulation over the hot water line. Make sure that the insulation
is against the top cover of the heater.
Fit T&P Valve insulation over valve. Make sure that the insulation does
not interfere with the lever of the T&P valve. 
						

							15
Secure all insulation using tape.
                                
FIGURE 25.
WATER PIPING PRESSURE TEST
This section is only for the manufacturer installing the water heater
when the installation is to comply with H.U.D. Standards.
When testing the water ways, H.U.D. Standards state:
“Water distribution system. All water piping in the water distribution
system shall be subjected to a pressure test. The test shall be made by
subjecting the system to air or water at 100 psi for 15 minutes without
loss of pressure. When air pressure is used, the water heater
shall not be connected during the test”.
NOTE: If water piping system is to be air pressure tested, the water
heater must be disconnected from the water piping system. Failure to
disconnect the water heater during air pressure testing of water piping
system could result IN DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR
PROPERTY DAMAGE.
   
FIGURE 26.
TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
This heater is provided with a properly certified combination
temperature - pressure relief valve by the manufacturer.
The valve is certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory that
maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment of
materials as meeting the requirements for Relief Valves and Automatic
Gas Shut-off Devices for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI Z21.22 •
CSA 4.4, and the code requirements of ASME.
If replaced, the valve must meet the requirements of local codes, but
not less than a combination temperature and pressure relief valve
certified as indicated in the above paragraph.
The valve must be marked with a maximum set pressure not to exceed
the marked hydrostatic working pressure of the water heater
 (150 psi = 1,035 kPa) and a discharge capacity not less than the water
heater input rate as shown on the model rating plate.
For safe operation of the water heater, the relief valve must not be
removed from its designated opening nor plugged.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be installed directly into
the fitting of the water heater designed for the relief valve.  Position the
valve downward and provide tubing so that any discharge will exit
only  at any distance below the structural floor.  Be certain that no
contact is made with any live electrical part.  The discharge opening
must not be blocked or reduced in size under any circumstances.
Excessive length, over 30 feet (9.14 m), or use of more than four
elbows can cause restriction and reduce the discharge capacity of
the valve, see Figure 27.
No valve or other obstruction is to be placed between the relief valve
and the tank.  Do not connect tubing directly to discharge drain unless
a 6 inch air gap is provided.  To prevent bodily injury, hazard to life, or
property damage, the relief valve must be allowed to discharge water
in quantities should circumstances demand.  If the discharge pipe is not
connected to a drain or other suitable means, the water flow may
cause property damage.
The Discharge Pipe:
• Shall not be smaller in size than the outlet pipe size of the valve, or
have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.
• If water piping system is to be air pressure tested, the water
heater must be disconnected from the water piping system.
• Failure to disconnect the water heater during air pressure
testing of the water system could result in DEATH, SERIOUS
BODILY INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE.
• Temperature-pressure relief valve
must comply with ANSI Z21.22
and ASME code.
• Properly sized temperature-relief
valve must be installed in opening
provided.
• Can result in overheating and
excessive tank pressure.
• Can cause serious injury or death. 
						

							16
• Shall not be plugged or blocked.
• Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.
• Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both the
temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge pipe.
• Shall terminate at an adequate drain.
• Shall not have any valve between the relief valve and tank.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at
least once a year.  Caution should be taken to ensure that (1) no one is
in front of or around the outlet of the temperature-pressure relief valve
discharge line, and (2) the water manually discharged will not cause
any bodily injury or property damage because the water may be
extremely hot.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and
continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to
the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
FIGURE 27.
FILLING THE WATER HEATER
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water.  To
prevent damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water.  Water
must flow from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas to the
water heater.
To fill the water heater with water:
1. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to the right
(clockwise). The drain valve is on the lower front of the water
heater.
2. Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.
NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when
the water heater is in use.
3. To insure complete filling of the tank, allow air to exit by opening the
nearest hot water faucet.  Allow water to run until a constant flow
is obtained.  This will let air out of the water heater and the piping.
4. Check all water piping and connections for leaks.  Repair as needed.
GAS PIPING
Make sure the gas supplied is the same type listed on the model rating
plate.  The inlet gas pressure must not exceed 10.5” W.C. for natural
gas and 13” W.C. for propane (L.P.) gas.  The minimum inlet gas pressure
shown on the rating plate is that which will permit firing at rated input.
If the gas control valve is subjected to pressures exceeding 1/2 pound
per square inch (3.5 kPa), the damage to the gas control valve could
result in a fire or explosion from leaking gas.
If the main gas line Shut-off serving all gas appliances is used, also
turn “off” the gas at each appliance.  Leave all gas appliances shut
“off” until the water heater installation is complete.
A gas line of sufficient size must be run to the water heater.  Consult
the current edition of National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54
and your gas supplier concerning pipe size. 
						

							17
There must be:
• A readily accessible manual shut off valve in the gas supply line
serving the water heater, and
• A drip leg (sediment trap) ahead of the gas control valve to help
prevent dirt and foreign materials from entering the gas control valve.
• A flexible gas connector or a ground joint union between the shut
off valve and control valve to permit servicing of the unit.
Be sure to check all the gas piping for leaks before lighting the water
heater.  Use a soapy water solution, not a match or open flame.  Rinse
off soapy solution and wipe dry.
When installed at elevations above 5,000 feet (1524 m), input rating
should be reduced at the rate of 4 percent for each 1,000 feet  (305 m)
above sea level which requires replacement of the burner orifice in
accordance with National Fuel Gas Code ANSI  Z223.1/NFPA 54. Contact
your local gas supplier for further information.
Failure to replace the standard orifice with a high altitude orifice when
installed could result in improper and inefficient operation of the
appliance, producing carbon monoxide gas in excess of safe limits,
which could result in serious injury or death. Contact your gas supplier
for any specific changes which may be required in your area.
Use pipe joint compound or teflon tape marked as being resistant to the
action of petroleum [Propane (L.P.)] gases.
The appliance and its gas connection must be leak tested before placing
the appliance in operation.
The appliance and its individual Shut-off valve shall be disconnected
from the gas supply piping system during any pressure testing of that
system at test pressures in excess of 1/2 pound per square inch
(3.5 kPa).  It shall be isolated from the gas supply piping system by
closing its individual manual Shut-off valve during any pressure testing
of the gas supply piping system at test pressures equal to or less than
1/2 pound per square inch (3.5 kPa).
Connecting the gas piping to the gas control valve of the water heater
can be accomplished by either of the two methods shown in
Figures 28, 29 and 30.
SEDIMENT TRAPS
A sediment trap shall be installed as close to the inlet of the water
heater as practical at the time of water heater installation. The sediment
trap shall be either a tee fitting with a capped nipple in the bottom outlet
or other device recognized as an effective sediment trap. If a tee fitting
is used, it shall be installed in conformance with one of the methods of
installation shown in Figures 28,29 and 30.
                
FIGURE 28.  GAS PIPING WITH FLEXIBLE CONNECTOR.
FIGURE 29.  GAS PIPING WITH ALL
BLACK IRON PIPE TO GAS CONTROL.
ALTERNATIVE SEDIMENT TRAP LOCATION
           
FIGURE  30.
Contaminants in the gas lines may cause improper operation of the gas
control valve that may result in fire or explosion.  Before attaching the
gas line be sure that all gas pipe is clean on the inside.  To trap any dirt
or foreign material in the gas supply line, a drip leg (sometimes called a
sediment trap) must be incorporated in the piping.  The drip leg must be
readily accessible.  Install in accordance with the “Gas Piping” section.
Refer to the current edition of the National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1/
NFPA 54.
FUEL CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS
FROM NATURAL GAS TO PROPANE (L.P.) GAS
This water heater has been factory equipped to operate with the type
gas indicated in the “EQUIPPED FOR” area of the model rating plate
located near the gas control valve. The indicated gas may be either
Natural or Propane (L.P.). By following the conversion instructions in
this manual or the instructions near the gas control valve, the water
heater must be converted if it is to be used with the opposite gas. DO
NOT USE THIS WATER HEATER WITH ANY GAS OTHER THAN THE
ONE LISTED ON THE MODEL RATING PLATE. Failure to use the correct
gas can cause problems which can result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY 
						

							18
INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. If you have any questions or doubts
consult your gas supplier or gas company.
Read and follow detailed conversion instructions located on the water
heater and also in the instruction manual in their entirety before starting
the conversion.
Conversion kit with necessary parts are in a bag attached to the drain
valve.
FOR 30 GALLON HEATER:
Orifice size: #40 for Natural / #52 for Propane (L.P.),
if converted - Propane Rate: 30,000 BTU.
FOR 40 GALLON HEATER:
Orifice size: #38 for Natural / #51 for Propane (L.P.),
if converted - Propane Rate: 32,000 BTU.
FOR 50 GALLON HEATER:
Orifice size: #35 for Natural / #51 for Propane (L.P.),
if converted - Propane Rate: 38,000 BTU.
Step 1.Turn gas control knob “A” to “PILOT”. Depress and turn “OFF”,
see Figure 31 page 19.
Step 2.Remove outer and inner access doors from water heater.
Step 3.Remove burner assembly from water heater control
by first removing 6 screws holding inner door to heater, then
loosening 3/4” nut “H” holding burner assembly to control, see
figures 32 and 33. Loosen pilot tube nut “J” and thermocouple
nut “K” at control. Disconnect wire to Piezo Igniter.
Step 4.Remove screws “D” disengaging manifold from burner, see
Figure 34 page 19.
Step 5. Remove orifice “E”, see Figure 34 page 19 using 3/8” wrench.
Install orifice marked “L.P.” found in the bag into manifold.
Tighten securely. Secure burner to manifold with
screws “D”.
Step 6.Loosen pilot tube nut “F”, see Figure 35 page 19. Remove
orifice “G” and replace with red colored orifice found in bag.
Reinstall nut “F” and tighten securely.
Step 7. Make sure all connections are tightened securely, and reinstall
burner assembly into water heater. Position end of manifold
inside bracket as shown in Figure 34 page 19. Reinstall manifold
into control and tighten 3/4” nut (“H”) securely. Recheck to see that
end of manifold is still inside bracket as shown in Figure 34
page 19. Reinstall pilot tubing and thermocouple into control, see
Figure 32 page 15. Connect wire to Piezo Igniter. Reinstall inner
door using the 6 screws removed in Step 3.
Step 8.Place screwdriver in slot “B”, see Figure 31  page  19. Depress
and turn counterclockwise ( 
 ) to stop. Control screw
must be in “IN” position for propane (L.P.) gas and in “OUT”
position for natural gas. STOP! Read label “For Your Safety”
located on your water heater.
Step 9.Set the thermostat to lowest setting by turning the water
temperature dial clockwise, ( 
 ) to its lowest temperature
setting (with arrow on dial) as shown.
                                        
Step 10.Turn gas control knob clockwise    to “OFF” position.
Knob cannot be turned from “PILOT” to “OFF” unless knob is
depressed slightly. DO NOT FORCE.
Step 11.Wait five minutes to clear out any gas. If you then smell
gas, STOP! Follow “B” in the safety information on “For
Your Safety” label. If you don’t smell gas, got to the next
step.
Step 12.The pilot is located in front of the burner, see Figure 33 on
page 19.
                      
Step 13. I f  you don’t smell gas, turn knob on gas control
counterclockwise 
  to “PILOT” position.
Step 14. Push in control knob all the way and hold down. Immediately
light the pilot using the Piezo Igniter. Continue to hold control
knob in for about one (1) minute after the pilot is lit. Release
knob and it will pop back up. Pilot should remain lit. If it goes
out, repeat Steps 9 through 12.
• If knob does not pop up when released, stop and
immediately call the local gas supplier.
• If the pilot will not stay lit after several tries, depress
and turn the gas control knob clockwise  
  to “OFF”
and call the gas supplier.
Step 15. Check for gas leaks with only pilot flame burning using soapy
water solution, not a match or open flame. Check for gas
leaks at fittings “F” and “G”, see Figure 35  page 19 and at
fittings “J”, see Figure 32 page 19.
Step 16.Make sure temperature adjustment dial is turned
clockwise ( 
  ) in its lowest position, see Figure 31
page 19.
Step 17. Replace outer door.
Step 18. At arm’s length away turn gas control knob to the full “ON”
position. WARNING:  D o  not use gas control knob to
regulate gas flow. Turn temperature adjustment dial
counterclockwise ( 
 ) until gas flows to main burner and
ignites.
Step 19. With a soapy water solution, not a match or open flame,
check for gas leaks at gas connection “H”, see Figure 32
page 19. If gas leak occurs, turn off immediately by shutting
off gas cock at inlet to control, or by turning gas control
knob 
 to “PILOT” pushing down and turning to “OFF”.
Repair gas leak as necessary, and repeat Steps 9 through
19.
Step 20. At arm’s length away, set the thermostat to desired setting.
The mark ( 
 ) HOT indicative of approx. 120°F (49°C) is
preferred starting point. Some local laws may require a lower
starting point. If hotter water is desired see the “Temperature
Regulation” section in this manual. 
						

							19
Step 21.Replace the outer door if not replaced in Step 17.
Step 22.Remove adhesive label found in conversion kit and place
next to rating plate. Mark label indicating for which type gas
the water heater is now equipped.
FUEL CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS
FROM PROPANE (L.P.) GAS TO NATURAL GAS
This water heater has been factory equipped to operate with the type
gas indicated in the “EQUIPPED FOR” area of the model rating plate
located near the gas control valve. The indicated gas may be either
Natural or Propane (L.P.). By following the conversion instructions in
this manual or the instructions near the gas control valve, the water
heater must be converted if it is to be used with the opposite gas. DO
NOT USE THIS WATER HEATER WITH ANY GAS OTHER THAN THE
ONE LISTED ON THE MODEL RATING PLATE. Failure to use the correct
gas can cause problems which can result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY
INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. If you have any questions or doubts
consult your gas supplier or gas company.
To convert from Propane (L.P.) gas to Natural gas, follow the “Fuel”
Conversion Instructions “From Natural Gas to Propane (L.P.) Gas” section
except in Step 5, use orifice “E”, marked “NAT.”. In Step 6 use pilot
orifice “G”, brass color and in Step 8 turn control screw “B” in Figure 12
clockwise ( 
  ) to stop. Screw must be in “OUT” position for Natural
Gas.
See “Instruction Label” for orifice sizes and information below.
FOR 30 GALLON HEATER:
Orifice size: #52 Propane (L.P.) / #40 for Natural ,
if converted - Natural Rate: 30,000 BTU.
FOR 40 GALLON HEATER:
Orifice size: #51 for Propane (L.P.) / #38 for Natural,
if converted - Natural Rate: 32,000 BTU.
FOR 50 GALLON HEATER:
Orifice size: #51 for Propane (L.P.) / #35 for Natural,
if converted - Natural Rate: 38,000 BTU.
Maximum Supply Pressure:
10.5” W.C. for Natural Gas.
13” W.C. for Propane (L.P.) Gas.
Minimum Supply Pressure:
       5” W.C. for Natural Gas.
      11” W.C. for Propane (L.P.) Gas.FIGURE  33.
FIGURE  34.
FIGURE  35.
FIGURE  31.
FIGURE  32. 
						

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