Advance Lifts Dock Lifts Pit Mounted Manual
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Repair Procedures for 3”, 3-1/4, 3-1/2”, & 4” Cylinders Cylinders for models 2000, 2000K, T-Series, 3000, 4000 Tools & Supplies Required: (2) Small screwdrivers to remove retaining rings and rod wipers. (1) snap ring tool (Waldes Truarc external type #S-660 or Industrial pliers #P-104.) A (5) gallon bucket to collect fluid from the cylinders. Wrenches to disconnect hydraulic fittings. Cylinder hone (Craftsman glaze breaker #9K4633 or equivalent). Emery cloth Clean lint free cloths and hose caps. Clean work surface (butcher paper on top of most surfaces works well), with a means of holding cylinder end fixed position for disassembly and assembly. “Lubriplate Grease” and hydraulic fluid matching the existing fluid in the system for topping off when finished. Maintenance leg supplied with each Advance unit. Cylinder Removal: 1. Raise the empty lift and settle it securely on its maintenance leg. 2. Once settled securely, depress the down button an additional 20 seconds to relieve any pressure from the cylinders. Remove the power connection to the power unit and mark with a warning label or lock the connection out to prevent unintended reconnection. 3. Disconnect the hydraulic hoses from the cylinders, on units made between April 1 st 2000 and January 1st 2011 remove the internal “Hexagonal” flow control from the cylinder fitting nipple and cap the hose ends to prevent contamination, refer to page P 8-12 for proper orientation. 4. Remove the cylinder from the lift by freeing the upper pin first and swinging the cylinder into an easily supported position then remove the lower pin. 5. Place the hose connection end of the cylinder in a 5-gallon bucket and force the cylinder closed to drain the hydraulic fluid from the cylinder. Do not reuse the fluid unless you are sure it is contamination free by careful straining. 6. Note that if you are going to repack one cylinder on a lift, it is usually a good idea to do all cylinders at the same time. Packing’s generally wear at the same rate and if you only repack one cylinder, you may have to pull the lift out of service soon thereafter to do the others. Cylinder Disassembly: 1. Secure the cylinder with a rod through the clevis or cross tube, do not use a vise, which will crush or otherwise damage the housing. 2. Using snap ring pliers (or screwdrivers with spiral type retaining rings); remove the retaining rings in front of the cylinder bearings. Some cylinders also have spacer rings, which are easily removed if the bearing is pushed back into the housing slightly, and these units will have a second retaining ring to remove. P 8-7
Cylinder Disassembly: (Continued) 3. Carefully remove any debris from the retaining grooves, and then pull out the entire rod, bearing, & piston assembly. Note that the groove in the cylinder housing has a sharp edge on the front side and a beveled back edge. The sharp edge is necessary for proper snap ring retention and will probably cut the packing when it is pulled out, but the beveled back edge will allow the new packing to slide in uncut. 4. Remove the hex nut or snap ring adjacent to the piston, then slide the piston and bearing off of the rod. If the hex nut is assembled with Locktite, a small amount of heat may help break the nut loose. Be sure that all components are placed on clean surfaces to avoid contamination. Repacking and Inspection: 1. Carefully inspect the entire housing with a flashlight, looking for any evidence of rust, scratches, or surface blemishes. Small blemishes may be removed with fine emery cloth and larger faults will require the use of the hone listed above. Be sure to thoroughly clean the housing when you are done to avoid contamination. 2. Do not become the victim of a false economy by using only part of a repacking kit. Since you have invested in disassembling the cylinder, use all new packing parts and seals of the reused old parts may fail in the near future causing a repeat of the whole exercise. 3. Remove the rod wiper on the bearing by using a screwdriver to bend the seal inward to collapse and remove it. Inspect the groove and remove any debris. 4. Lubricate and insert a new wiper with your fingers, sliding it into its groove. Depending upon temperature, the rod wiper may slide in much easier if it is warmed in hot water, then dried, lubricated, and inserted. The bearing may now be slid back onto the rod. 5. Begin repacking the piston by using a screwdriver to carefully remove the old backup rings and seal from the groove. Newer cylinders are also equipped with a wear ring that should be removed at this time. Be careful to leave the grooves nick free and clean. 6. Lubricate the new backup rings, seal and wear ring and gently stretch them into place. Note that the seal fits between the rings. 7. Inspect the static seal groove on the cylinder rod, then lubricate the groove and slide a new static seal in place. Slide the piston back into position noting that the flat side, not the chamfered side, should rest against the retaining ring or nut. Reinstall the retaining ring or nut using Locktite if the fastener is a plain nut. Assembly: 1. Liberally lubricate the outside of the new packing kit and the groove in the cylinder housing, align the piston carefully and slide the entire assembly back into the housing. 2. With 3-1/2” & 4” cylinders you may simply compress the retaining ring and slide the bearing into position and release the ring into its groove. With 3” cylinders you must slide the bearing beyond its normal position to install the inner retaining ring, insert the spacer washer, then install the outer ring. In all cases be sure that the retaining rings are fully seated in their grooves or the cylinders will come apart when fully extended, causing an accident. P 8-8
Reinstallation: 1. Remount the cylinders in the lift. 2. Clean up any spilled oil to insure that it is not later misinterpreted as a new oil leak. 3. Connect the electrical power and cycle the lift several times, holding the down button an extra 20 seconds each time to help bleed air from the hydraulic system. This will eliminate any “Spongy” operation. Check the oil level and top off ½” from the top of the reservoir with the same type fluid originally used. 4. The lift is now ready to go back into service. MODEL 2000, 2500K, T MODELS CYLINDER DIAGRAM HOUSING ROD PISTON PISTON RETAINING NUT (600 FT LBS.) O-RING QUAD WEAR BACK UP RINGS ROD BEARING QUAD EXTERNAL RETAINER SPACER INTERNAL RETAINER ROD BEARING BACKUP RING BACKUP RING P 8-9 RETURN LINE PORT
SERIES 3000, 4000, T SERIES UNITS WITH 6000 LBS. CAPACITY AND ALL T MODELS P 8-14 P 8-10
Section 9: Electrical Information The motor supplied as standard is 208/230/460V 3-phase motor, with connection diagrams on the outside of the motor for low voltage, 230V or high voltage, 460V. This motor connection is also rated for 208V. As any standard motor is rated for +/-10% of voltage variation, this motor will operate properly, within ratings, at 208, 220, 230, 240, 440, 460, and 480V, 3-phase supply. There are other motor configurations including single phase 115V & 230V. If you are unsure of the correct voltage or phase, contact the factory before applying line voltage. If the standard motor is intended for 208V line usage, some caution is advised. If your motor is a 230V motor, and your 208V line voltage drops to 207 Volts (a drop of only ½%), the motor will be operating at -10% in a marginal region. Wiring runs and actual 208 voltages become very important. If your line voltage varies (due to loads elsewhere in the system, etc.) you may have an advantage by ordering as an option a specific 208V +/-10% motor. To reverse the direction of rotation on a 3-phase motor, reverse any two of the three power leads to the motor. On single-phase motors, see wiring diagram on motor. Field Changes in Voltage: Advance Lifts’ standard electrical supplied is 230V, 3-phase unless otherwise specified. Any field change in supply voltage would entail the following changes. 230V to 460V A. Change transformer primary connections to 460V. B. Change overload protection to proper value as per currents in motor tables. Order new overload; adjust new overload to motor full load current setting. Insure the overload is set to “manual” reset, not “automatic” to insure the equipment cannot re-start automatically. C. Change motor connections for high 460V. D. Change plug and receptacle for power, if required. 460V to 230V A. Change transformer primary connections to 230V. B. Change overload protection to proper value as per currents in motor tables. Order new overload; adjust new overload to motor full load current setting. Insure the overload is set to “manual” reset, not “automatic” to insure the equipment cannot re- start automatically. C. Change motor connections for low 230V. D. Change plug and receptacle for power, if required. IMPORTANT: When changing voltages, insure motor rotation is correct. P 9-1
Motor Controllers (Typical)
Specifications:
Motor Starter with adjustable thermal overload.
50VA transformer with 24 VAC secondary fused at 4 amps (Standard)
100VA transformer with 115 VAC secondary fused at 1.6 amps (Optional)
Reset is manual or automatic (manual is standard, automatic is not to be used)
Enclosure is NEMA 12 JIC supplied with (4) conduit openings (motor, down
solenoid, power and push button station)
Completely wired with terminal strips for final secondary voltage control connections
All components UL, CSA
Overall dimensions: (approximate)
Metal Enclosures: 9”w x 12”h x 8”d
Typical motor controller – appearance may vary.
P 9-2
Transformer
Motor Starter
(Contactor)
Ground Lug
Motor Overload
Motor Overload
Reset Button
Terminal Strip
(Low Voltage)
12/12/07 X1 2 X2 1 H3 H2 4 X2 - XF X1 H4 H1 1L1 A1 6T3 4T2 2T1 6T3 4T2 2T1 5L3 3L2 96NC 97NO 98NO A2 95NC 22 NC 14 NO 13 NO 21 NC L 1 L 2 GROUND N TO DOWN SOLENOID GROUND ADVANCE LIFTS WIRING DIAGRAM FOR 230 VOLT SINGLE PHASE 5 HP PUSH BUTTON TRANSFORMER TERMINAL STRIP MOTOR STARTER OVERLOAD BK BK BK BK BK W W W R G BK = BLACK G = GREEN R = RED W = WHITE FLM 1 FLM 1 FNM 3-2/10 DOWN UP STOP RESET BK LOW VOLTAGE LINE VOLTAGE LOW VOLTAGE (FIELD WIRED) LINE VOLTAGE (FIELD WIRED) *MOTOR P1 T1 T8 T4 T5 P 9-3 3 4 4 3 INTERNAL MOTOR CONNECTIONS * TO CHANGE ROTATION SWAP T5 & T8 TYPICAL BREAK POINT FOR DOWN TRAVEL LIMIT SWITCH TYPICAL BREAK POINT FOR UP TRAVEL LIMIT SWITCH
P 9-4 5/23/06 X1 2 X2 1 H3 H2 4 X2 - XF X1 H4 H1 1L1 A1 6T3 4T2 2T1 6T3 4T2 2T1 5L3 3L2 96NC 97NO 98NO A2 95NC 22NC 14NO 13NO 21 NC L 1 L 2 GROUND N TO DOWN SOLENOID GROUND ADVANCE LIFTS WIRING DIAGRAM 230 VOLT THREE PHASE 5 & 7.5HP PUSH BUTTON TRANSFORMER TERMINAL STRIP MOTOR STARTER OVERLOAD BK BK BK BK BK W W W R G BK = BLACK G = GREEN R = RED W = WHITE FLM 1 FLM 1 FNM 3-2/10 DOWN UP STOP RESET L 3 3 4 3 4 MOTOR T4 T5 T6 T9 T3 T8 T2 T7 INTERNAL MOTOR CONNECTIONS T1 WIRE NUT LOW VOLTAGE LINE VOLTAGE LOW VOLTAGE (FIELD WIRED) LINE VOLTAGE (FIELD WIRED) TYPICAL BREAK POINT FOR UP TRAVEL LIMIT SWITCH TYPICAL BREAK POINT FOR DOWN TRAVEL LIMIT SWITCH
X1 2 X2 1 H3 H2 4 X2 - XF X1 H4 H1 1L1 A1 6T3 4T2 2T1 6T3 4T2 2T1 5L3 3L2 96NC 97NO 98NO A2 95NC 22NC 14NO 13NO 21 NC L 1 L 2 GROUND N TO DOWN SOLENOID GROUND ADVANCE LIFTS WIRING DIAGRAM 460 VOLT THREE PHASE 5 & 7.5HP PUSH BUTTON TRANSFORMER TERMINAL STRIP MOTOR STARTER OVERLOAD BK BK BK BK BK W W W R G BK = BLACK G = GREEN R = RED W = WHITE FLM .5 FLM .5 FNM 3-2/10 DOWN UP STOP RESET L 3 3 3 4 4 LOW VOLTAGE LINE VOLTAGE LOW VOLTAGE (FIELD WIRED) LINE VOLTAGE (FIELD WIRED) MOTOR T4 T7 T8 T5 T6 T9 T3 T2 INTERNAL MOTOR CONNECTIONS T1 WIRE NUTS P 9-6 TYPICAL BREAK POINT FOR UP TRAVEL LIMIT SWITCH TYPICAL BREAK POINT FOR DOWN TRAVEL LIMIT SWITCH P 9-5