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Vector The Black And White Monitor Faq And Guide

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    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 11 of 51 The x-gain and y-gain will have to be adjusted a little on the B&W board to make the picture the 
    right size. Connect the Z out from the game to only the Green and Blue inputs of the color monitor 
    if it is behind smoked Plexiglas for a realistic “monochrome” look.” 
     
    In fact, this is exactly what Atari did with their PAT 9000 test fixture to allow both monochrome 
    and color vector games to be tested on one color monitor. 
     
     
     
    Manual differences 
     
    There are several different manuals for the Electrohome G05, and an additional manual for the 
    Wells-Gardner V2000 series. The following list outlines the manuals: 
     
    · G05-801 Preliminary manual (TM-146) 
    · G05-801 (54-7279-01 Issue 1   August 1979) (TM-146) 
    · G05-801 (54-7279-01 Issue 2   October 1979) (TM-146) 
    · G05-801 (54-7279-01 Issue 3   January 1980) (TM-146) 
    · G05-802/805 (54-7291-01 Issue 1   April 1980)  (TM-151) 
    · G05-802/805 (54-7291-01 Issue 2   September 1980)  (TM-151) 
    · G05-802/805 (54-7291-01 Issue 3   May 1982)  (TM-151) 
    · 19V2000/15V2000  (TM-164) 
     
     
    The following changes were made to the G05-801 manuals. I can find no evidence of any 
    component or layout changes to any portion of the G05-801 monitor. 
     
    Issue 2 - October 1979 changes the Atari Coin-Op Customer Service address on the back of 
    the manual to Bordeaux Drive. 
     
    Issue 3 - January 1980 adds an additional safety check on page 4: 
    If service is performed on the EHT Module, the EHT overvoltage protective circuit MUST 
    BE VERIFIED AS OPERATING AT 21 KV MAXIMUM. 
     
     
    The Electrohome G05-802 manuals differentiate themselves with different Issue numbers. 
    However, these issue numbers are completely different than, and inconsistent with the Issue 
    numbers of the deflection boards. The G05 deflection board differences are outlined later in this 
    document. 
     
    The G05-802/805 Issue 1 and Issue 2 manuals have the following differences: 
     
    Deflection 
    Pin assignments of P100 are different between the Issue 4 and Issue 5 Deflection boards 
    Issue 1 manual shows an Issue 4 deflection board 
    Issue 2 manual shows an Issue 5 deflection board  
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 12 of 51 Issue 2 manual has a revised deflection board parts list noting the following: 
    · C602 and C603 removed (although these parts are still on the PCB layout) 
    · C702 and C703 removed (although these parts are still on the PCB layout) 
    · R100 and R101 removed (although these parts are still on the PCB layout) 
    · R604 is changed to 910R  (910-Ohms) 
    · R704 is changed to 820R  (820-Ohms) 
    · D604 and D605 changed to 1N100 
    · D704 and D705 changed to 1N100 
    · R604 and R704 changed to 750R (on the G05-805 ONLY) 
     
    High Voltage 
    Issue 2 manual has a revised HV board parts list noting the following: 
    · C906 changed to 0.22 uF 50V (this value is not changed on the schematic) 
     
    The G05-802/805 Issue 3 manual is identical to the Issue 2 manual, with the exception of 
    additional Electrohome addresses on the back cover. 
      
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 13 of 51  HIGH VOLTAGE BOARD  
     
    It is reported that the weakest part of these monitors is the EHT or High Voltage Unit. This may be 
    because the secondary windings tend to open up or arc due to poor mechanical connections. 
     
    The first condition will cause no picture WITH high voltage depending on which secondary opens. 
    The second condition will cause “blooming” – a faded enlarged picture. 
     
    G05-801 EHT Supply Issue - 5 
    Part Number: 50-1410-01 G05-802/805 EHT Supply Issue - 3 
    Part Number: 50-1421-01  
    There is no known substitute or replacement for the G05 High Voltage Transformer. If yours is 
    bad, you will have to find another used HV cage. 
     
    Many problems associated with the High Voltage board arise from the HV Rectifier Diode (listed 
    as either D903 or D904). This diode sits in the path of the red anode wire that leads from the HV 
    cage to the suction cup on the picture tube. Often, these diodes fail, and are rather difficult to 
    replace, as the packaging is a bit unusual. The original diodes fit in like a socket into a cap on each 
    end of the anode wire. The HV diode can be replaced with either an SK7333 or ECG/NTE 527A. If 
    your replacement is bigger than the original SK7330, you can just solder it in. You will need some 
    sort of high-voltage insulation -- something that has a dielectric strength that can handle the 10k+ 
    volts. Normal electrical tape can handle around 300v, and the HV will burn through it. 
     
    A failing HV diode will cause ‘blooming’ of your picture. Arcing within the high voltage rectifier 
    connectors causes this condition. To cure this problem, follow this procedure: 
     
    1. Switch off AC power and remove the monitor from the game. 
    2. Remove H.V. cover secured by two screws. 
    3. Unplug the H.V. rectifier from its holders and inspect the holders to insure that the springs 
    are inside the holder. 
    4. Replace the rectifier with a new rectifier W.G. part number 66X0067-002. The leads of the 
    rectifier must be cut and formed in the same manner as the original. 
    5. Insert the rectifier firmly in its holders, banded side toward CRT. 
    6. Inspect the lead dress of the transformer H.V. wire. Wire must be dressed. 
    7. Inspect fuse F102 on main deflection PC board. The fuse value should be 1.5 amp. 
    8. Replace the H.V. cover, which was removed in step No. 2. 
     
    A really good way to remove and replace the HV diode is to use a hair dryer to soften up the 
    housing, then remove the old one and put in the new one. The replacements are a little longer but 
    work well and will fit. 
     
      
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 14 of 51 DEFLECTION BOARDS  
     
    When working on your deflection board, it is very important to remove the input signal from the 
    game board BEFORE removing power to the monitor. Failure to follow these instructions will 
    result in severe phosphor burn to the picture tube, which cannot be repaired. 
     
    In order to properly identify which G05/V2000 Deflection board you have, we first need to 
    determine if yours has been modified to work with a 19” or 15” monitor tube. The only changes 
    made during manufacture of the G05 were two resistors located near the big filter capacitor C101. 
    The differences are: 
     
    G05-802 (19”) “Issue 4” G05-802 (19”) “Issue 5” R604 is 1K-Ohm 1/4W resistor R604 is 910-Ohm 1/4W resistor R704 is 910-Ohm 1/4W resistor R704 is 820-Ohm 1/4W resistor    
     
    G05-805 (15”) “Issue 4” G05-805 (15”) “Issue 5” R604 is 910-Ohm 1/4W resistor R604 is 750-Ohm 1/4W resistor R704 is 820-Ohm 1/4W resistor R704 is 750-Ohm 1/4W resistor    
    The V2000 deflection boards seem to be identical between the 19” and the 15” varieties. Assuming 
    you have identified your deflection board, we now need to determine which revision it is. There are 
    actually five revisions of the Electrohome G05 deflection board:  
     
    “Issue 3” Deflection Board: This is the G05-801. The 801 deflection board can be identified by 
    two big blue capacitors 4-5 inches tall on a power supply board that is completely separate from the 
    deflection board. The deflection board also looks completely different than the G05-802/805. The 
    G05-801 deflection board is not interchangeable with later revisions. Atari did, however, make an 
    adapter harness that would allow the use of a G05-802 monitor in place of a G05-801 (Atari Part 
    Number: AO36240-01). 
     
    Unlike all other revisions of this monitor, the G05-801 requires either 56VAC or 74VAC CT.  
     
     
     “Issue 2” Deflections Board:  The original G05 design was revised, and the “Issue 2” deflection 
    board was the result. It is presumed that Atari (through their subcontractor Electrohome) 
    redesigned the G05 monitor in order to fit into the Asteroids cocktail cabinet. The 15 chassis 
    would have had a hard time accommodating the three separate boards from the G05-801 design. 
    Atari most likely decided that the design was simpler and more cost effective so they rebuilt the 
    19 chassis using the same basic parts. 
     [differences??]  
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 15 of 51  
     “Issue 4” Deflection Board: Issue 4 deflection boards seem to be almost identical to the later 
    revisions. On Issue 4 deflection boards, pins 4 and 5 are electrically connected, but the wire that 
    connects to pin 4 is purple, and it runs to the CRT neck socket where it terminates since there is no 
    CRT pin that makes a connection to it. This deflection board looks like a normal one, but has a 
    unique pinout of P100. Pins 4 and 5 are shorted to ground and the connector is keyed differently. 
    Pin 5 is the key pin. 
     
    ISSUE 4 DEFLECTION PCB PINOUTS (P100) PIN DESCRIPTION 1 X input +/-10V 1K impedance 2 X signal GND 3 Y input +/-7.5V 1K impedance 4 Y signal GND 5 Z input .5V blanking 1.0V blacklevel 
    4.0V full on 220-ohm impedance 6 Z signal GND 7 30 VAC RMS 8 Power GND (center tap) 9 Power GND (center tap) 10 30 VAC RMS 11 6.3V AC heater input 12 Heater GND  
    If you want to upgrade your “Issue 4” board to an “Issue 5” (for use in an Issue 5 harness), it is 
    actually very simple.  
     
    1. Remove the keying plug (pin 5) from the P500 molex. 
    2. Move the wire from Pin 4 to pin 5. 
    3. Cut the trace leading to pins 4 and 5 on P500 (GND in Issue 4). 
    4. Solder a jumper from pin 2 to pins 4 and 5 on P500. 
     
    If pins 4 and 5 of P500 are left connected to GND, it will ground Grid #3 in the CRT and will 
    reduce the brightness of the trace to the point where it is almost impossible to see. 
     
     
    “Issue 5” Deflection Board: This deflection board is probably the most common G05 deflection 
    board. You will find that Electrohome used several different colors of solder mask on the bottom of 
    these PCBs. I have seen tan, green and orange. The foil diagram for Issue 5 deflection boards more 
    or less matches the actual layout for Issue 4 deflection boards, except for pins 4 and 5 of connector 
    P500. 
     
    Issue 5 Deflection boards have additional small jumpers that can be used to replace R101 and 
    R100. These jumpers are labeled W10 and W11 (for R101); W8 and W9 (for R100). Additionally, 
    C602; C603; C702; and C703 are not populated. 
      
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 16 of 51  
    ISSUE 5 DEFLECTION PCB PINOUTS (P100) PIN DESCRIPTION 1 Z input .5V blanking 1.0V blacklevel 
    4.0V full on 220-ohm impedance 2 Y input +/-7.5V 1K impedance 3 X input +/-10V 1K impedance 4 Power GND (center tap) 5 Y signal GND 6 X signal GND 7 30 VAC RMS 8 Z signal GND 9 6.3V AC heater input 10 30 VAC RMS 11 Power GND (center tap) 12 Heater GND  
     
    “Issue 6” Deflection Board: 
     
    Issue 6 Deflection boards are almost identical to Issue 5 boards and they also have the additional 
    small jumpers that are used to replace R100 and R101. These jumpers are labeled W10 and W11 
    (for R101); W8 and W9 (for R100). 
     [other differences?] 
      
     
    Wells-Gardner V2000 Deflection Board 
     
    The V2000 deflection boards are white, are marked P299 at the “top” of each board between the 
    locations of R101 and R100 and have the contrast knob inset on the board (which is a poor design 
    since the contrast control is so crucial when getting the bright vectors). 
     
    There are at least two revisions of the V2000 deflection board - 85X0138 and 85X0138E. The ‘E’ 
    suffix seems to denote the later revision. Each deflection board is labeled on the solder mask on the 
    reverse. On the earlier 85X0138 deflection PCB, D502 has been factory modified to include a 100-
    Ohm 1/2W 10% resistor that has been pigtailed to the cathode end of D502. In the later board 
    revisions, D502 and D503 have been relocated and this modification has been eliminated through a 
    different board layout. 
      
     
    The Resistors! 
     
    If you look at many G05 and V2000 deflection boards, you will notice that some do not have any 
    resistors installed at R100 and R101, and some do. Both applications will work. Atari Field Service 
    issued an upgrade that instructed operators to remove the 3.9 ohm 15 watt wirewound resistors at  
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 17 of 51 R101 and R100 and (on early revisions of the board) jumper the pads with a length of heavy-gauge 
    wire. Later revisions of the deflection board (Issue 5 and Issue 6) eliminated the resistors all 
    together and had jumpers installed - labeled W10 and W11 (for R101); W8 and W9 (for R100) to 
    provide a current path. Resistors R100 and R101 were eliminated from the schematics, although the 
    PCB layout diagrams in the manuals show both the resistors and the jumpers. 
     
    The Wells-Gardner V2000 has two large resistors in the power supply, R100 and R101. R101 just 
    loves to smoke and burn up. WHY? Check the 30-volt lines from the game. If one is open, there 
    will be a NORMAL picture and ONE VERY HOT resistor. 
     
    Another symptom that can cause R101 to start smoking is when the Game Board of the game has 
    an X or Y signal riding on an excessively high DC level. 
     
    Then again, any one of the conditions mentioned previously pertaining to problems in the “X” or 
    “Y” amplifiers can cause R101 to burn up. Depending on the problem, it may bum fast or it may 
    bum slow. Jumping these resistors may stop them from burning up but it WILL NOT solve the 
    problem. 
     
     
    Neon Lamps NE501; NE502; NE503 
     
    The way these neon lamps work is that they do nothing until about 90v is place across them. At this 
    point, the neon gas breaks down and an arc is formed, which causes the gas to glow orange. 
     
    The thing about these lights, that makes them useful in monitors, is that below 90v they act like an 
    open circuit. Above 90v, when arcing occurs, they act more like a short circuit. In fact, in order to 
    use them on the 110v power line, you must place a resistor (usually around 1 meg) in series with 
    the neon bulb, to limit the current, or it will try to act like a wire across the A.C. line and explode. 
     
    So they are good at clamping circuits to a maximum of 90v volts. If there is any kind of HV 
    bleeding and the point in the circuit, where the neon bulb is placed, reaches 90v, the bulb will light 
    and quickly clamp the voltage back down to below 90v. 
     
     
    Spot Killer 
     
    The Spot Killer does not seem to cause much trouble with the exception of the LED, D504. It 
    cannot be checked by the usual ohmmeter method because it reads infinite resistance both ways. 
     
    If your dipswitch test pattern does not want to come in, or your brightness just doesn’t seem bright 
    enough, and EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE else checks good, pull out D504. Chances are you 
    will have plenty of brightness. 
     
    Poor brightness with retrace lines could mean a defective D504, or perhaps the “Z” signal wire is 
    not connected properly to the base of Q504. 
      
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 18 of 51  
    X and Y Amplifiers 
     
    If the top, bottom or sides of the display flutter and try to move toward the center, again, check the 
    power supply. More often, though, this situation is due to a bad transistor in the “X” Amplifier 
    (sides) or the “Y” Amplifier (top and bottom).  Sometimes these circuits will check good with an 
    ohmmeter. 
     
    So, if a team of engineers with sophisticated test equipment are not available, this is our suggestion: 
    change Q707 and Q706 for the “X” Amplifier - or - Q607 and Q606 for the “Y” Amplifier. Q605 
    and Q705 are also suspicious characters. If the above doesn’t work, try them next. 
     
    When changing Q706, Q707, Q606 and Q607, ALWAYS make sure you have each one in its 
    proper place with the correct lead placement. If you do not, you may as well break out the hot dogs 
    because you WILL have a barbecued Deflection P.C. Board. 
     
    If you should happen to barbecue a Deflection Board, CHECK ALL SEMICONDUCTORS in that 
    particular amplifier. Also check all resistors from R721 at least as far back as R705 (“X” amplifier 
    circuit) or R621 back as far as R605 (“Y” amplifier circuit). Otherwise, you may live to regret not 
    having done it. 
     
    Remember this. If at first you do not get a picture and the LED on the monitor (D504) stays lit, 
    every time you go back to determine what else has failed in this amplifier circuit, ALWAYS check 
    the out-put transistors Q608, Q609, Q708 and Q709 because you can destroy them as fast as you 
    replace them. 
     
     
    Semiconductors 
     
    A defective semiconductor that checks good on the ohmmeter may also drag down the power 
    supply voltage. Check the collectors of the output transistors. If two voltages are high and the other 
    two are low, it could be a defective transistor at Q602, Q603, Q702 or Q703. 
     
     
    Power Supply 
     
    Trouble with C100 or C101 will cause the lines to brightly streak around, possibly coming from a 
    spot in the center. If a proper picture is present on the monitor but moves around and blooms, it 
    could be a partially open C100 or C101. The other circuits are starving for voltage and not totally 
    doing their jobs. 
     
     
    Transistors 
     
    Transistors that CHECK GOOD with a meter but are NOT GOOD in the circuit is a condition that 
    is generally rare elsewhere. But maybe not so rare in the “X-Y” monitor. This is mentioned because  
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 19 of 51 we know it is a problem encountered frequently with the “X-Y” monitor and we want to bring it to 
    your attention. 
     
     
    Voltages 
     
    For any of you who would like to try a little voltage measuring to analyze the problem, the 
    following list contains EVERY Electrohome and Wells-Gardner “X-Y” monitor transistor voltage. 
    These voltages were measured on correctly functioning monitors with a hand-held portable digital 
    multimeter.  So, these readings are accurate (but not laboratory accurate) and will be closer to your 
    actual expected voltage measurement results. 
     
    For a test display, the Omega Race diamond shaped test pattern is used so that the voltage readings 
    will stay stable and not jump around as they would with a moving game picture. Of course, you 
    cannot see a picture with a defective monitor, so connect a DC voltmeter to the “X” channel on the 
    Game Board output. When you have the correct diamond shaped test pattern, you should be 
    reading a steady - 2.32 volts on your meter. 
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    [continued on next page] 
    						
    							Black & White Vector Monitor Guide  
    Page 20 of 51  
     
    All Readings are DC Level Voltages                            X INPUT DC LEVEL FOR DIAMOND TEST PATTERN = -2.32 VOLTS DC 
    Y INPUT DC LEVEL FOR DIAMOND TEST PATTERN = -0.08 VOLTS DC                            B = BASE E= EMITTER C = COLLECTOR                            ELECTROHOME G05 MONITOR  WELLS-GARDNER V2000 MONITOR                                          Q601 B -0.3  Q701 B -1.4  Q500 B -1.3    Q602 B -0.1 Q702 B -0.8 Q500 B -3.5  C -0.6  C -1.9  C 0.0    C +0.7  C -1.4  C 0.0  E +0.5  E +0.5  E +38.7    E +32.2  E -28.9  E +34.6                      Q602 B 0.0  Q702 B -0.6  Q501 B -0.7    Q603 B -0.1 Q703 B -0.8 Q501 B -2.6  C -0.6  C -1.2  C 0.0    C -0.7  C -1.4  C 0.0  E +38.8  E +39.0  E +38.7    E +32.4  E +32.4  E +34.6                      Q603 B -0.6  Q703 B -0.6  Q502 B +38.8    Q604 B -29.5 Q704 B -29.7 Q502 B +34.5  C 0.0  C -1.2  C +39.8    C -30.2  C -30.4  C +1.6  E +38.6  E +38.8  E +1.4    E -29.6  E -28.9  E +33.2                      Q604 B -39.3  Q704 B -39.3  Q503 B +2.1    Q605 B +32.3 Q705 B +32.5 Q503 B +0.7  C -39.9  C -39.9  C +1.4    C +32.9  C +33.2  C -0.2  E -27.4  E -27.1  E +1.4    E +30.5  E +30.5  E +0.1                      Q605 B +38.8  Q705 B +39.0  Q504 B +2.3    Q606 B +30 Q706 B +30.0 Q504 B +2.3  C +39.5  C +39.7  C +1.8    C +30.6  C -30.4  C +1.7  E +36.0  E +36.2  E +75.3    E +0.2  E -1.3  E +77.0                      Q606 B +35.4  Q706 B +34.1  Q900 B +23    Q607 B -0.5 Q707 B -30.4 Q900 B +16.0  C +36.0  C +36.2  C +22.1    C -30.4  C -29.7  C +15.3  E +0.2  E -1.0  E +32.1    E -29.7  E -2.1  E +24.2                      Q607 B -39.4  Q707 B -39.4  Q901 B +23.6    Q608 B +0.2 Q708 B -1.3 Q901 B +16.6  C -40.0  C -40.0  C +22.9    C -0.1  C -1.7  C +16.0  E -0.4  E -1.7  E +31.8    E +34.6  E +34.7  E +24.0                      Q608 B +0.2  Q708 B -1.0  Q902 B +9.2    Q609 B -0.5 Q709 B -2.1 Q902 B +9.7  C -0.1  C -1.3  C +8.7    C -0.1  C -1.7  C +9.2  E +41.1  E +41.0  E +24.1    E -31.5  E -31.7  E +16.6                      Q609 B -0.5  Q709 B -1.7  Q903 B -3.4         Q903 B -3.8  C -0.1  C -1.3  C 0.0          C 0.0  E -41.2  E -41.1  E +22.4          E +15.0                      
     
     
      
    						
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