Ruger Super Blackhawk Instruction Manual

							11
WARNING - LEAD EXPOSURE
Discharging firearms in poorly
ventilated areas, cleaning
firearms, or handling
ammunition may result in
exposure to lead and other
substances known to the state of
California to cause birth defects,
reproductive harm, and other
serious physical injury. Have
adequate ventilation at all times.
Wash hands thoroughly after
exposure.
SHOOTING OR CLEANING GUNS
MAY EXPOSE YOU TO LEAD
AMMUNITION
The table below shows the correct type of ammunition for use in each of the
revolvers listed. Where two cartridges are shown on the same line, they may be
used interchangeably.
Model Caliber Ammunition
Blackhawk Convertible .32-20/.32 Mag. .32-20 reg. & high speed
(no longer in production) .32 H&R & .32 S&W in Extra Cyl.
Blackhawk, Bisley .357 Magnum .357 Mag. and .38 SPL
Blackhawk Convertible .357 Mag/9mm .357 Mag. and .38 SPL
9mm in Extra Cyl.
Blackhawk .30 Carbine .30 Carbine
Blackhawk .41 Magnum .41 Magnum
Blackhawk, Bisley .45 Colt .45 Colt
Blackhawk Convertible .45 Colt/45 Auto .45 Colt; .45 Auto in Extra Cyl.
Super Blackhawk, Hunter, .44 Magnum .44 Mag. and .44 SPL
Blackhawk, Bisley
Blackhawk Convertible .38-40/10mm .38-40 reg. & high speed
(no longer in production) 10mm in Extra Cyl.
Super Blackhawk .44-40/.44 Mag. .44-40 reg. & high speed
Convertible (no longer in production) .44 Mag. & .44 SPL in Extra Cyl. 
						

							AMMUNITION (CARTRIDGES)NOTICE
WE SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE
OR INJURY WHATSOEVER OCCURRING IN CONNECTION WITH, OR
AS THE RESULT OF, THE USE IN RUGER REVOLVERS OF FAULTY, OR
NONSTANDARD, OR “REMANUFACTURED” OR HANDLOADED
(RELOADED) AMMUNITION, OR OF CARTRIDGES OTHER THAN
THOSE FOR WHICH THE FIREARM WAS ORIGINALLY CHAMBERED.
WARNING – AMMUNITION
Death, serious injury, and damage
can result from the use of wrong
ammunition, bore obstructions,
powder overloads, or incorrect
cartridge components. Always
wear
shooting glasses and hearing
protectors.
IMPROPER AMMUNITION
DESTROYS GUNS
12
Notes on Cartridges listed in the table above:.357 Mag. is 357 Magnum; .38 SPL
is .38 Special; 9mm is 9mm Parabellum, also called 9mm Luger; .45 Colt is also
called .45 Long Colt; .45 Auto is .45 Automatic and is also called .45 ACP; .44
Mag. is .44 Magnum; .44 SPL is .44 Special.
Notes on the .32-20/.32 Magnum Convertible (this model is no longer in
production):The .32-20/.32 magnum revolver is supplied with one .32-20
cylinder and one .32 H&R magnum cylinder. The .32-20 cylinder can fire all
.32-20 factory loaded cartridges, both regular and high speed. No other .32
caliber cartridge should be used in this cylinder, as split cases can result in hot
powder gasses escaping rearward under very high velocity. The .32 H&R Magnum
cylinder can fire all factory loaded .32 S&W and .32 S&W long cartridges. The
use of other than .32 H&R Magnum cartridges may, in some loadings, result in
unsatisfactory accuracy.
Notes on the .38-40/10mm Blackhawk Convertible (this model is no longer in
production):Ruger New Model Convertible revolvers using the cylinder
chambered for the .38-40 cartridge can use all factory loadings of this
ammunition both regular and high speed. Do not use any other ammunition in
the .38-40 cylinder. Revolvers using the cylinder chambered for the 10mm pistol
cartridge can use all factory loadings of this ammunition both regular and high
speed. Do not use any other ammunition in the 10mm cylinder.  
						

							13
Notes on the .44-40/44 Mag. Super Blackhawk Convertible (this model no longer
in production):Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk convertible revolvers using
the cylinder chambered for the .44-40 cartridge can use all factory loadings of
this ammunition both regular and high speed. Do not use any other ammunition
in the .44-40 cylinder. The .44 magnum cylinder can use all factory loadings of
the .44 magnum cartridges and .44 special cartridges.
Notes on Revolvers Chambered for 9mm or .30 Carbine:Because 9mm
cartridges are manufactured worldwide for use in pistols, revolvers, and
submachine guns, it is possible to encounter cartridges which, when fired,
develop pierced primers. If this occurs, discontinue the use of the particular
brand or type of ammunition. The possibility of a pierced primer is another
compelling reason why a shooter should always wear protective glasses to shield
his eyes. Use only metal jacketed bullets in 9mm and .30 Carbine revolvers.
When a lead bullet is fired, its base expands and a ring of lead is shaved off and
deposited in the shoulder area of the chamber. A build-up of lead rings can
prevent proper chambering of cartridges because 9mm and .30 Carbine cartridge
mouths seat on the chamber shoulders.
When firing a regular .30 Carbine cartridge with a metal jacketed bullet, a ring of
brass is sometimes clipped from the mouth of the cartridge case. This ring can
lodge in the chamber shoulder and prevent full chambering of a subsequent
cartridge. For the reasons noted above, revolver chambers should be cleaned
regularly and chamber cleaning should be the first corrective action when
cartridges do not chamber properly.
HANDLING
CARRYING:Unlike “old model” single action revolvers, which should always be
carried with the hammer down on an empty
chamber to prevent accidental
discharges caused by a blow to the hammer, the Ruger New Model Blackhawk &
Bisley may be carried with all chambers loaded. When the hammer and trigger
are fully forward at the same time, the transfer bar is lowered out of firing
position and the hammer rests directly on the frame, not on the firing pin.
WARNING – HANDLING
Any time the revolver is loaded, the
hammer is cocked and the trigger is
pulled and held to the rear, it will fire.
Cocking the gun or pulling the trigger
should only be done when you are ready
to fire immediately.
NEVER DROP OR STRIKE ANY
REVOLVER – COCKED OR UNCOCKED.
CARRY AND HANDLE THE REVOLVER
IN SUCH A MANNER THAT THE
HAMMER WILL NOT BE STRUCK.
NEVER CARRY ANY
REVOLVER WITH THE
HAMMER COCKED. 
						

							14
TO LOAD AND FIRE
1. Do not load the revolver until you are ready to use it.
2. Note – The loading gate cannot be opened unless the hammer and trigger are
fully forward, and the hammer cannot be cocked once the gate is opened.
3. Open the gate. This permits the cylinder to rotate.
4. Turn cylinder clockwise, by hand, and insert cartridges in chambers.
5. Align a chamber with the barrel and close the gate. The revolver is now in its
normal carrying condition – hammer and trigger fully forward and transfer
bar lowered out of firing position.
6. Cocking – To fire the revolver, the hammer must first by manually cocked.
When cocking the hammer, have a firm hold on the grip with the shooting
hand, and DO NOT TOUCH THE TRIGGER WHILE COCKING THE HAMMER.
TOUCH THE TRIGGER ONLY WHEN YOU ARE READY TO FIRE. With the fore
portion of your thumb firmly on the hammer spur, draw the hammer fully to
the rear until it stops. Then permit the hammer to move forward (it will only
move slightly) until the trigger engages in the hammer at full cock.
7. Firing – Once the hammer has been cocked, a light pressure on the trigger
will disengage the trigger from the hammer. The hammer will fall forward
striking the transfer bar and the revolver will fire.
8. After firing, the hammer will remain down. To fire subsequent shots, fully
release the trigger and repeat steps 6 & 7 above for each shot.
CAUTION:The recoil of any centerfire caliber causes the
muzzle of the gun to flip upward with substantial force. The
shooter need not be apprehensive, but be prepared. Keep a firm grip
on the revolver and hold it away from your face when firing.
WARNING – FIRING
When firing any revolver, be sure all persons are a
safe distance to the rear of the shooter. When fired,
all revolvers discharge gas and particles through the
clearance gap between the cylinder and the rear of
the barrel. These particles of lead, powder grains or
lubricant are projected broadly sideways at high
speed and thus can injure a person who is standing
too close to the revolver. When firing any revolver,
always be certain that nothing – including either of
your hands – is in the path of the hot gas and
particles which are discharged from the front and
sides of the cylinder. When shooting, adequate eye
protection is essential. Shooters and bystanders must
wear shooting glasses. Hearing protection must also
be worn. Exposure to shooting noise can damage
hearing.
HOT GASES EXIT
BARREL/CYLINDER GAP  
						

							The safe carrying position for the
Blackhawk, Super Blackhawk and
Bisley Revolvers is with the
hammer fully down and the
trigger forward. In this position
the hammer does not contact the
firing pin. See page 10. In older
(1953-1972) Single Action
Revolvers, the hammer, when in
the full forward position, does rest
against the firing pin.
Accordingly, never car
ry an “oldmodel” revolver with the hammerfully forward and the cartridge inline with the firing pin because alight blow to the hammer canreadily cause discharge.It is
always safest to carry the hammer
down over an empty
chamber
regardless of the revolvers type.
See page 29 for details about our
free safety conversion offer for
“old model” Ruger Single Action
Revolvers.
62-00000 AND
ONLY
15
DRY-FIRING: Going through the actions of cocking, aiming, and pulling the
trigger of an unloaded
gun is known as “Dry Firing.” It can be useful to learn the
“feel” of your revolver. Be certain the revolver is unloaded and that the gun is
pointing in a safe direction even when practicing by dry-firing. The Ruger New
Model revolvers can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or other
components.
“FANNING”:NEVER fan any revolver. Fanning is an unsafe way to fire a gun and
it is abusive to the revolver mechanism.
ALWAYSCARRY
NEW MODEL SINGLE ACTIONS
WITH HAMMER DOWN.
WARNING – SAFE CARRYING POSITION 
						

							16
TO ‘UNCOCK’ (DECOCK) THE REVOLVER
If your revolver is cocked, and you wish to let the hammer down to its forward
position (against the frame), proceed as follows: USE EXTREME CARE WHEN
ATTEMPTING TO DECOCK THE REVOLVER, AS THE THUMB SLIPPING
DURING THIS PROCESS CAN RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE IF
THE TRIGGER IS HELD TO THE REAR.
1.Make cer
tain that the revolver is pointing in a safe direction(See Rule 2, Page
39).
2. Make certain both hands are dry and not impeded in any way – gloves,
bandages, cold, etc.
3. Grasp the revolver (if right handed) so that the thumb and forefinger of your
left hand are firmly holding the frame, forward of the trigger guard. Thus,
your left hand is in full control of the revolver (See Figure a, below).
4. Place your right thumb firmly on the hammer spur and, with your thumb
securely in control of the hammer, squeeze the trigger only enough to permit
the hammer to ‘break free’ of the trigger. At that instant, IMMEDIATELY
RELEASE THE TRIGGER and then slowly permit the hammer, STILL SECURE
UNDER YOUR THUMB, to move fully forward to its resting position against
the frame. NOTE: It is imperative that finger pressure be removed from the
trigger just as soon as it is free of the hammer. Then, properly, the trigger and
hammer will move towards their fully forward rest positions together (See
Figure b, below).
Practice this important gun handling skill with an unloaded revolver until you
have developed the proper control and ‘touch’ to decock your revolver safely. The
key to safe decocking is having the weight of the revolver controlled with one
hand, while the thumb and forefinger of the ‘shooting hand’ control the hammer
and trigger.
4
3 1
2
a.
b.
a.With the thumb controlling the hammer as shown above, (1) squeeze trigger
to permit hammer to ‘break free’ (2).
b.When hammer is free, IMMEDIATELY release trigger (3). Then lower hammer
slowly to its resting position completely down against frame (4).
DECOCKING (UNCOCKING) THE REVOLVER 
						

							17
The revolver is now in its normal carrying condition -- hammer and trigger fully
forward and transfer bar lowered out of firing position.
CAUTION:The hammer must be carefully eased fully forward before
the hammer is drawn back to the full-cock position for the first shot.
The hammer should be drawn with a firm positive motion to the full-
cock position for each shot, thus actuating the working parts for complete
indexing. Unless this procedure is followed in any single-action revolver, the
cylinder is apt to be out of index when fired.
TO UNLOAD OR EJECT CARTRIDGE CASES
Keep revolver pointed in a safe direction!
Do not attempt to unload when the hammer is cocked.
If the hammer is cocked, it must first be decocked. (See “To Uncock The
Revolver”, p. 16)
Then: 
1. Open the gate. This permits the cylinder to rotate.
2. Turn cylinder clockwise, by hand, to align a chamber with the ejector rod.
3. Push the ejector rod rearward, by means of the thumb-piece on its forward
end, so that it slides through the chamber to push out the cartridge or fired
case. Release spring-loaded ejector rod. Repeat until all chambers are empty.
4.Check to be certain that all
cartridges have been removed, then close the gate. 
TO REMOVE OR REPLACE CYLINDER
1. Open the gate. This lowers the cylinder latch into the frame.
2. Press base pin latch (on left side) and withdraw base pin.
3. Remove cylinder from loading gate side of frame.
To replace cylinder, simply reverse the above procedure. Holding the gun with
the barrel pointed away from you and in a safe direction, rotate the cylinder 1/4
turns in a clockwise direction to ensure that pawl is correctly positioned on
cylinder ratchet, before replacing base pin. Finally, close the gate.
WARNING: Never remove, replace or carry a loaded cylinder.
The cartridges can fire if their primers are struck. 
						

							Never clean, lubricate,
disassemble or work on a
revolver while it is loaded.
Never install or remove a loaded
cylinder. A loaded cylinder can
discharge if dropped or struck.
Read instructions before
disassembling gun.
UNLOAD BEFORE CLEANING
18
Do not eject unfired cartridges onto any surface where the cartridge primer
might strike a solid object and discharge the cartridge.
CORRECT UNLOADING SEQUENCE
WARNING – DISASSEMBLY
3
12
4
REPEAT
FOR ALL
CHAMBERS
The user of a RUGER®NEW MODEL SINGLE ACTIONrevolver should
carefully read all disassembly directions and study all the illustrations and the
Parts List in this manual before attempting to take the gun apart. Know the
names and location of the parts before removing any of them. Although the
NEW MODELrevolver mechanism is composed of only a few parts, it is
essential that the disassembly and reassembly operations be carried out with
knowledge and care.
Only a few tools are required: A screwdriver or two to remove the grip panel and
grip frame screws, and a drift punch to remove the hammer and trigger pivots
(pins). A small plastic-faced hammer can be useful in drifting the trigger pivot
out and in.
3
12
4
REPEAT
FOR ALL
CHAMBERS 
						

							19
The tip of the screwdriver blade should perfectly fit the grip frame screw slots. A
tip too large will scrape away metal, while too small a tip will damage the screw
slots.
Before taking the gun apart, set up to do it properly. Cover the work surface with
a soft cloth so that the gun finish (and sights) will not be damaged, and provide a
tray into which the parts can be put as they are removed from the gun
.
DISASSEMBLY
(Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
1. Open the gate and rotate the cylinder a few times to be certain the revolver is
unloaded. Leave the gate open.
2. Press in fully on the left side of the base pin latch, and while holding it in
that position, withdraw the base pin. Remove the cylinder and close the gate.
This is as far as you need to go for routine cleaning.
DETAILED DISASSEMBLY:
1. Remove grip panel screw and remove grip panels.
2. Draw hammer rearward to full cock position. Insert a short length (about 1”)
of nail or pin into the small hole at the lower end of the hammer strut. (The
purpose of the pin is to confine the mainspring when the hammer is
released.)
3. While maintaining thumb pressure on the hammer spur, squeeze the trigger
and ease hammer down to full forward position.
4. Remove the five screws which fasten the grip frame to the cylinder frame.
5. Pull the grip frame rearward and downward to separate it from the cylinder
frame. (If the grip frame does not readily separate from the cylinder frame,
draw the hammer rearward a short distance.) Remove the mainspring
assembly from the grip frame, but do not r
emove the small pin that is
confining the mainspring.The mainspring assembly will later be reassembled
into the frame as it is.
Do not ‘lose’ the pawl spring and plunger (located in a hole in the
rear of the left side of the cylinder frame, just above the grip frame
screw hole) or the cylinder latch spring and plunger (located in
the hole above front of the trigger guard bow in the grip frame).
6. Remove the trigger pivot (pin) as follows: using a screwdriver as shown in
Figure 1, p. 20, depress the gate detent spring so that the end of the spring
which rests in one groove of the trigger pivot is free of the groove. Then, use
a drift and hammer to push the pivot completely out of the frame.
CAUTION: Press the screwdriver blade tip against the spring
carefully and be certain the blade does not slip off the spring
and damage the frame or injure the person holding the gun. 
						

							20
7. Remove cylinder latch, gate detent spring, and gate.
8. Remove hammer pivot. Then remove the hammer/pawl assembly and the
trigger/transfer bar assembly. (Note that the hammer is attached to the pawl
and the transfer bar is attached to the trigger. See Figure 2).
The revolver is, at this stage, disassembled as far as it needs to be for major
cleaning and maintenance. However, if it is necessary to go beyond the above
steps, the following cautions and suggestions should be useful:
Ejector/Ejector Housing:Wrap one hand firmly around barrel and housing when
loosening the screw. Remove screw, then carefully lift housing (which contains
compressed spring and ejector rod) away from the barrel.
Base Pin Latch/Nut and Spring: The nut must be held firmly (with jaw-protected
pliers) while the latch is being unscrewed. Don’t lose the spring. When
reassembling, be certain the nut and spring are on the left side of the frame. (See
Parts Drawing).
Rear Sight: The rear sight can be removed from the frame by drifting out the
pivot pin (MR05600) and removing the elevation screw (MR05902). Unless it is
essential, the rear sight should not be removed because there is the risk of losing
the very small elevation springs. If the sight is removed, when reassembling it is
helpful to put a very tiny dab of lubricating gun grease in the recesses of the
sight base. The grease will ‘hold’ the springs upright when the sight is positioned
on the frame as the rear sight pivot pin is being reinstalled.
REASSEMBLY
(Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
1. Assemble pawl to hammer and transfer bar to trigger as shown in Figure 2.
Partially insert hammer/pawl assembly in its recess in the frame. Insert
trigger/transfer bar assembly in its slot in the frame. Then simultaneously
complete insertion of the two assemblies into the frame.
(Groove in
 Hammer Pivot)
(Groove in
 Trigger Pivot)
Figure 1 Figure 2
ALTHOUGH THE FOREGOING OUTLINES THE CORRECT
PROCEDURE, WE WISH TO EMPHASIZE THAT SUCH DETAILED
DISMANTLING IS SELDOM IF EVER NECESSARY.