Lyman Black Powder Instructions Manual
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29 Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 16993107 Butt Plate 26993108 Butt Plate Screws 36993310 Lock Assembly 46993311 Lock Mounting Screw 56993312 Lock Screw Bushing 66993313 Escutcheon Screw 76993317 Escutcheon Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 86993314 Wedge 96993315 Forend Cap 10 6993113 Forend Cap Screw 11 6993316 Stock 12 6993331 Trigger Assembly 13 6993318 Trigger Guard Screw Components Stock and Lock Group
30 LOCK ASSEMBLIES Percussion Lock Assembly (For Lyman Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Percussion Models) The percussion lock on your Black Powder Rifle is a near-perfect blend of both old and new. The exterior is finely finished and color case-hardened as were the guns of 150 years ago. Inside, the lock is a redesigned system featuring a coil mainspring (42) instead of the traditional leaf spring. This is a much more durable mainspring, one that is not prone to the breakage problems encountered with the flat leaf springs. Dwg. Part Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description 38 6030151 Bridle Screws 44a 6993189 L.H. Tumbler 39 6030152 Hammer Screw 45 6030158 Fly 40 6030153 Bridle 46 6030159 Sear 41 6030154 Lock Plate 46a 6993188 L.H. Sear 41a 6993186 L.H. Lock Plate 47 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring 42 6030155 Main Spring 48 6030161 Hammer 43 6030156 Main Spring Plunger 48a 6993184 L.H. Hammer 44 6030157 Tumbler 49 6011127 Sear Screw Note:Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done. Components Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 38 6993320 Bridle Screw 39 6993321 Hammer Screw 40 6993322 Bridle 41 6993323 Lock Plate 42 6030155 Main Spring 43 6993324 Main Spring Plunger Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 44 6993325 Tumbler 45 6030158 Fly 46 6993326 Sear 47 6993327 Sear Plunger & Spring 48 6993328 Hammer 49 6993329 Sear Screw Percussion Lock Assembly–Stainless Steel
31 Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 16030151 Bridle Screw 26030153 Bridle 36030181 Lock Plate 3a 6993187 L.H. Lock Plate 46030182 Frizzen 56030183 Frizzen Spring* 5a 6993191 L.H. Frizzen Spring* 66030184 Frizzen Spring Screw 76030185 Frizzen Screw 86030155 Main Spring 96030156 Main Spring Plunger 10 6030157 Tumbler Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 10a 6993189 L.H. Tumbler 11 6030158 Fly 12 6030159 Sear 12a 6993188 L.H. Sear 13 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring 14 6030186 Hammer 14a 6993185 L.H. Hammer 15 6030187 Hammer Jaw 16 6030188 Jaw Screw 17 – Leather** 18 – Flint** 19 6011127 Sear Screw Components Flintlock Lock Assembly For Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Flint Models Note:Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done. * Not shown in illustration **Not available from Lyman
32 LYMAN PLAINS PISTOL Lymans Plains Pistol recreates the trappers pistol of the mid-1800s while incor- porating the best of modern steels and technology. All steel parts on the finished gun are polished and blued - except for the belt hook. The percussion lock is hardened internally with a color-case hardened lockplate and hammer on both the kit and finished gun. Your Plains Pistol is designed to fire a tightly patched roundball accurately at various charge levels. Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the “Maxi” or Minie ball. The conical bullets are very heavy, compared to a patched round-ball, and are very likely to slip towards the muzzle if the loaded pistol is carried on the belt. The resultant space between bullet and powder could produce a bulged or burst barrel under certain conditions. Note:Breech plugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units. Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 26 6030151 Bridle Screws* 27 6030152 Hammer Screw* 28 6011124 Bridle-Pl. Pistol 29 6011125 Lock Plate-Pl. Pistol 30 6030155 Main Spring* 31 6030156 Main Spring Plunger* Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 32 6030157 Tumbler* 34 6011137 Sear 35 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring* 36 6011126 Hammer 37 6011127 Sear Screw* Percussion Lock Assembly Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description 16030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal) 1a 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal) 26011102 Tang-Pl. Pistol 36011103 Tang Screw-Pl. Pistol 46030122 Breech Plug 56030123 Cleanout Plug 66030124 Nipple 6 x .75mm 76011104 Rear Sight-Pl. Pistol 86011106 Barrel (.50) Blued; Pl. Pistol 8a 6011107 Barrel (.54) Blued; Pl. Pistol 96011108 Front Sight-Pl. Pistol 10 6011109Barrel Rib w/attached ferrule-Pl. Pistol 11 6011110Barrel Rib Screw-Pl. Pistol 12 6011111 Ramrod-Pl. Pistol (10-32 thread)13 6011112Stock (finished)-Pl. Pistol 13a 6011113 Stock (kit)-Pl. Pistol 14 6011114Lock Assembly-Pl. Pistol 15 6011115 Lock Mounting Screw Pl. Pistol 16 6011116 Belt Hook-Pl. Pistol 17 6011117 Lock Screw Bushing 18 6011118Escutcheon Screw-Pl. Pistol 19 6011119 Wedge-Pl. Pistol* 20 6011120 Escutcheon-Pl. Pistol 21 6011121 Forend Cap Screw-Pl. Pistol 22 6011122 Forend Cap-Pl. Pistol 23 6011123 Trigger Assembly-Pl. Pistol24 6011128 Trigger Guard-Pl. Pistol 25 6011129Trigger Guard Screw-Pl. Pistol Stock and Lock Group Shooting Caution: Do not carry your loaded Plains Pistol with a percussion cap on the nipple. This is just as unsafe as carrying a single-action revolver with a primed chamber under the hammer - even if the hammer is on the safety notch. *Interchangeable with lock parts from the Great Plains Rifle, Deerstalker and Trade Rifle. *Note:The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Sights are also installed from the right to the left. Sights are removed from the left to the right.
33 Instructions for Lyman Assembly Kits INTRODUCTION The materials provided in Lyman Kits have been selected for their overall quality and durability. Proper assembly will enable you to create a muzzle- loading firearm having the quality lines of an expensive custom piece. Read these instructions thoroughly before you actually begin assembly. There are several critical steps - and others that will save considerable time within the instructions. Reading the instructions will give you a better under- standing of the task and allow you to mentally sequence the events before beginning work. TOOLS REQUIRED We recommend that you obtain a copy of Brownells Gunsmith Tool Catalog. You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the material you cannot find locally. Brownells Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171 Carving Tools–The wood work required to complete this kit could be done with ordinary hobby knives, but a set of wood carving tools will simplify any carving required. Rasps–You will need a straight rasp for rough shaping the exterior of the stock to final dimensions. The Surform tools produced by Stanley will do a satisfactory job. Sand Paper–Grades 80 through 320. Files–(1) 10 or 12 inch mill file (2) 1/4 inch wide pillar file (3) 1/4 inch three square file Electric Drill and Bits– (1) 3/32 inch (2) 1/16 inch (3) 1/8 inch SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS - INLETTING The stock of your Lyman kit is, at least, 95% inletted. You will find that most, if not all, the major parts will fit properly with no additional inletting required. However, we have chosen to be very meticulous and present the inletting of each part with greater detail and emphasis than is likely to be required. Throughout these instructions you will be instructed to blackenthe part prior to inletting, then to look for the black transfer marks, indicating where excess material is to be removed. These instructions refer to a technique where a part is coated with a transfer agent (such as soot, Prussian Blue, lipstick or similar substance) then inserted into the semi-inletted stock and lightly tapped into place. When the part is removed, the transfer agent will remain on the stock showing where wood is to be removed or the fit is perfect. If you have never inletted a stock before, it is important for you to realize the presence of a black transfer mark does not automatically indicate removal of material. NOTE: CONSULT THE PARTS DIAGRAM IN THIS GUIDE AS NEEDED.
34 Example:Assume that you are inletting the lock assembly. After you remove the lock for the first time you will note the black transfer marks in the cavity. Little black will be apparent around the edges of the lock. Black marks will be located within the cavity showing where wood is to be removed to allow the working parts of the lock to fit. You will continue to coat the part with transfer agent, reinsert it into the cavity, continue inletting gradually dropping the lock into place. As the lock is lowered into position the edge of the lock plate will come into contact with the stock. At this time you must proceed very slowly. Wood is actually shaved from the cavity where the edge of the lock plate meets the stock. When the lock plate is properly inletted, light transfer marks will be apparent around the edges of the cavity. If these light transfer marks were to be removed you would create gaps between the edge of the lock plate and the surface of the stock, a condition that is not desirable. There are two simple ways to obtain a suitable transfer agent. One is to coat the part with soot from a smoking candle. The smoke from the candle flame is played on the part. This technique is very effective when fit- ting metal to metal. Add a few drops of oil at the wick base if your candle does not smoke enough. The second way to obtain a transfer agent is to pur- chase a bottle of “inletting black” from a gunsmith supply house. KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS: GREAT PLAINS RIFLE AND PLAINS PISTOL The first step in assembly is with the barrel group. The barrel is to be partially finished first so that it can be readily inletted into the stock. 1. Draw Filing the Barrel–Draw filing is used primarily to shave away the tool marks left on the barrel by the precision milling operation; secondarily to dress the patent breech to the barrel. During draw filing, the file is held such that it makes a right angle with the axis of the barrel (refer to Figure 1). Holding the file with both hands, it is lightly drawn down the entire length of the barrel, shaving metal away as it travels. Begin by securing the barrel in a padded vise and start draw filing the entire barrel, one flat at a time. Start at the muzzle and draw the file towards you, making sure that the file is held flat against the barrel. Do not allow the file to rock side to side during the draw, as this will cause rounded edges. Continue filing, one flat at a time, until each flat of the barrel is completely free of milling tool marks, and the breech plug is flush with the barrel flats. Take your time. When the draw file has been completed, lightly oil the entire barrel to prevent rust. The final polishing of the barrel will be done after all inletting has been completed.
2. Fitting the Tang to the Breech Plug–The tang and the lug on the breech- plug may require hand-fitting to provide the proper fit when the barrel is hooked into position. The fit described below will assure a rigid barrel/stock assembly that will promote excellent accuracy in the finished rifle or pistol. Caution:This step is often unnecessary as it is factory fitted. You will note that when the tang is first installed onto the breech plug it may not lie flat, in contact with the rear of the breech plug. The idea now is to carefully file away the surface (“A”) of the breech plug lug until the tang mounts flush with the plug with a small amount of pressure applied. Over-cutting of the top surface will cause the tang to fit loosely and may affect accuracy. Blacken the entire surface of the projecting lug on the breech plug. Hook the tang onto the lug. Remove the tang and examine the upper surface of the lug. White marks (soot rubbed away) will indicate where excess metal is to be filed away. Carefully file away excess metal, reblacken the lug and hook the tang back into position. Repeat the filing and fitting process until the top flat of the tang is parallel with the top flat of the barrel. 3.Inletting the Stock–The stock of your Lyman muzzleloader is a very delicate piece of wood, and requires considerable care when metal parts are fitted to it. Pressure incorrectly applied when inletting could well result in a cracked stock. The areas of the tang, barrel breech and the lock are particularly delicate. Large amounts of wood have been removed from these areas to accommodate hardware. These areas are very likely to be damaged if improper care is taken during the inletting process. The following instructions describe how to proceed during each critical step. With reasonable care, good results will be obtained. 4. Inletting of the Lock Screw Bushing or Plains Pistol Belt Hook–The lockscrew bushing should be inletted flush with the stock surface. Blacken the underside of the bushing and press it into its stock cavity. Remove the bushing and carefully cut away excess wood within the cavity. Continue the process until the bushing is completely inletted and bottoms in the cavity. NOTE: Should the bushing become stuck in position before inletting is complete, it can be easily removed by inserting the lock screw into the screw hole from the lock cavity side of the stock, and carefully tapping out the bushing. 35 Adjust fit until flats of tang meets flats of breech plug. A slight amount of pressure to make contact is desired. Surface “A” FIGURE 2
36 5. Inletting the Lock Assembly–First, draw the hammer back to full cock. Apply transfer agent to plate edges. Position the lock over its cavity in the stock. Insert the lock mounting screw and slowly tighten it, drawing the lock down into posi- tion. Draw down only until resistance is met. Remove the lock and examine the cavity for black transfer marks. Carefully cut away excess wood. NOTE: If you remove too much wood from the inner surface where the stock and the edge of the lock plate meet, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only small amounts of wood at a time. Do not over-tighten the lock screw when drawing the lock into position. If the cavity has not been fully inletted, the lock will act as a wedge and a cracked stock will result. Continue the inletting process until the lock has been inletted to a point where the surface of the lock plate is just above the surface of the stock. Final inletting will take place later. 6. Inletting the Tang and Barrel Assembly–Remove the forend cap from the stock. Install the lock. Hook the tang on the breech plug and set the entire tang/ barrel assembly into the stock. Carefully note the position of the bolster (on the breech plug) with regard to the circular cutout on the lock. It should align closely. Inletting of the tang/barrel assembly must allow the bolster to fit into the circular cutout on the lock when inletting is completed. If further inletting is needed, blacken the underside of the tang and set it into position, noting with a pencil mark. Carefully tap into place, then remove and cut away excess wood. Continue this process until the tang has been inletted to 90% of its depth in the stock. During the course of this inletting, periodically install the barrel on the tang to check for bolster alignment with the lock. Once the tang has been inletted to near full depth, proceed by inletting the barrel and tang as an assembly. Blacken the undersides of both the barrel and tang. Cut away any excess wood from both the tang area and the barrel channel until the assembly is fully inletted, and the bolster makes contact with the circular lock plate cutout. When this contact has been made, remove the lock and continue inletting to full depth. The barrel wedge(s) can be inserted into the barrel tenon(s). A slight amount of pressure should be required to insert the wedge(s). Note that on the Great Plains Rifle the longer wedge should be installed closest to breech. 7. Final Inletting of the Lock and Barrel Assembly–Great Plains: Set the tang and barrel into position, note the location of the two tang screws They should line up with the holes in the tang. When complete, mount the tang in position. Hook the barrel to the tang and install. Do not force the barrel down. You may find that additional inletting behind the breech plug is required to clear the breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot. Plains Pistol: Set the tang and barrel into position and, when complete, mount the tang in position. The single tang screw goes through a pre-drilled stock hole and anchors in a threaded hole in the top of the trigger plate. Make sure the screw aligns properly so the tang screw threads wont be stripped. Hook the barrel to the tang and install. Do not force the barrel down. You may find that additional inletting behind the breech plug is required to clear the breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot.
37 NOTE: Gap between lower barrel flat and bottom forend channel should not exceed 1/16. At this stage you should complete inletting of the lock to its full depth so the inside shoulder of the lock makes solid contact with the side flat of the barrel, and the bol- ster of the breech plug fits properly into the circular cutout of the lock. Install the lock assembly. Blacken the underside of the bolster and reinsert the barrel assembly in the stock. The barrel may not go back into its fully inletted position. If not, the interference will be caused by the bolster being slightly out of position with the circular cutout of the lock (refer to figure 3). Remove the barrel and exam- ine the underside of the bolster for interference marks. Carefully file away excess metal on the bolster, using a rotation motion as you file. Repeat the blackening and trial fit process until the barrel has been returned to its fully inletted position. Note: Proper fit is achieved when there is a slight clearance between the bolster and the circular cutout. At final assembly the lock must be able to be removed with the bar- rel in position. Flintlock Note: The lock must contact flat of barrel to prevent priming powder from collecting inside lock. If ignited, this powder will explode, ruining the rifle and probably causing injury. Install the barrel using the barrel wedge to hold it in place. Remove the lock assem- bly and blacken the underside. Continue the inletting of the lock until the inside shoulder of the lock is in full contact with the side flat of the barrel. When the lock has been fully inletted, carefully pull the hammer back to check for interference with internal working parts. The lock should cock freely. If resistance is felt, exam- ine the lock cavity to ensure that all rotating parts have clearance. 8. Inletting the Trigger Assembly–Blacken the underside of the trigger assem- bly. Insert the assembly to the rear of the trigger cavity. Remove the trigger assembly and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting process until the trigger plate has been inletted slightly below the surface of the stock. Locate the position of the trigger assembly mount screw. On the Great Plains Rifle use the 1/16 inch drill to drill the pilot hole. Install the trigger assembly. FUNCTION TEST:Make certain that the hammer is in the down position. Check triggers for freedom of movement. Great Plains Rifle–Set the rear trigger and release the set trigger by pulling on the front trigger. If both triggers operate freely, you have adequate clearance. If not, remove the trigger assembly, examine the cavity for black transfer marks and cut away interfering wood. Plains Pistol–Secure the trigger assembly by installing and tightening the tang screw. 9. Inletting the Trigger Guard–Great Plains: Use a mill file and carefully remove any burrs from around the bottom edges of the two flats of the trigger guard. The outer edges should be completely finished before inletting. The exterior surface of the trigger guard can be finished later. Blacken the underside of the two flats of the guard, and insert the guard into its cavity. Remove and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting until the trigger guard has been inletted flush with the surface of the stock. Locate the position for the two pilot holes and, using the 3/32 drill, drill the two pilot holes for the trigger guard screws. Install the trigger guard. Plains Pistol: Your Plains Pistol Kit has the trigger guard factory-installed. No holes need be drilled by the builder and little, if any, inletting will be necessary. However, some fitting of the trigger guard over the trigger assembly may be necessary to permit the trigger guard to return to its original position, flush with rifle stock. If such fitting is necessary, spot and file the underside of the brass trigger guard as needed.
38 The trigger guard should be left on the stock during all stages of wood shaping and finishing. However, the correct fit is flush with the finished stock. After the stock has received its final sanding, the trigger guard can be removed for final polish and later installation on the stained and finished stock. 10. Inletting the Butt Plate (Rifles Only) and Forend Cap–Both the butt plate and nose cap have been factory-installed to protect the exposed ends of the stock. Additional fitting may be necessary for perfect fit. Remove the butt plate and blacken the underside. Install. Then remove and cut away excess wood. Continue this process until no wood-to-metal gaps are apparent. Final fitting will take place when the stock is shaped. Note: In some instances, only a minor amount of metal prevents an excellent fit. Judicious filing and spotting often causes the butt plate to fit perfectly with little or no wood removal. The forend cap is inletted in the same manner with an additional operation required. Once the forend cap has been fully inletted, install the barrel. Note any interference between the cap and barrel, and carefully file away excess cap metal. The cap should not make contact with the barrel, a 1/64 inch gap is desirable. 11. Inletting the Escutcheons–Place the barrel in the stock. Each escutcheon is inletted separately using the barrel wedge as a locating guide. Blacken the underside of an escutcheon plate. Place the plate in position over its cavity and insert the barrel wedge. Lightly tap the wedge down to hold the plate in position. Do not overdo this or the plate will be deformed. Check the plate for position and make sure the cavity is completely covered by the plate. Select a knife with a small, thin blade and carefully cut a line around the edge of the plate. Use only the point of the blade and position the knife so the cut is angled toward the center of the plate. Remove the plate and, using the knife cut as a guide, cut away excess wood directly to the bottom of the cavity. Make certain the cuts stay slightly to the inside of the knife scribe mark. Repeat the process for the second plate. Pilot holes are not required for the escutcheon plate screws. Use the point of a knife or small nail to locate the center of the hole and install the screws. 12. Finishing the Barrel–When the barrel has been completely inletted into the stock, work may proceed with final finishing of the barrel. The draw filing operation is now to be followed by successive passes of polishing with abrasive paper. First, select a medium-coarse grit emery paper, followed with successively finer grits up to 240 grit wet or dry paper. Wrap a piece of the grit around the file used to draw-file the barrel. The draw-polishing is accomplished in the same manner used to draw-file the barrel. Polish all flats, including the breech plug, until a satisfactory polish has been achieved. 13. Metal Coloring–All steel fittings (except the lock and trigger assembly), including the barrel, of your Lyman muzzleloader require some form of metal finish, These may be polished with successively finer grades of emery paper or left as is prior to finishing depending on the builders taste. Traditionally, rifles and pistols of this type had the “iron mountings” browned. The kit builder may choose to cold blue these parts if he prefers a more modern type of finish. Metal finishing can be accomplished by dismounting all the steel parts from the stock and applying the metal finish according to the chemical manufacturers instructions. CAUTION:The ramrod thimbles on the Great Plains Rifle, and Plains Pistol are soldered to the barrel rib in the same fashion as many originals. Since some browning solutions require the use of heat, caution should be used to assure the part is not heated enough to loosen the soldered bond.