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Lyman Black Powder Instructions Manual

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    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    16993107 Butt Plate
    26993108 Butt Plate Screws
    36993310 Lock Assembly
    46993311 Lock Mounting Screw
    56993312 Lock Screw Bushing
    66993313 Escutcheon Screw
    76993317 Escutcheon
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    86993314 Wedge
    96993315 Forend Cap
    10 6993113 Forend Cap Screw
    11 6993316 Stock
    12 6993331 Trigger Assembly
    13 6993318 Trigger Guard Screw
    Components
    Stock and Lock Group 
    						
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    LOCK ASSEMBLIES
    Percussion Lock Assembly
    (For Lyman Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Percussion Models)
    The percussion lock on your Black
    Powder Rifle is a near-perfect blend of
    both old and new. The exterior is finely
    finished and color case-hardened as were
    the guns of 150 years ago.
    Inside, the lock is a redesigned system
    featuring a coil mainspring (42) instead of
    the traditional leaf spring. This is a much
    more durable mainspring, one that is 
    not prone to the breakage problems
    encountered with the flat leaf springs.
    Dwg. Part Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description
    38 6030151 Bridle Screws 44a 6993189 L.H. Tumbler
    39 6030152 Hammer Screw 45 6030158 Fly
    40 6030153 Bridle 46 6030159 Sear
    41 6030154 Lock Plate 46a 6993188 L.H. Sear
    41a 6993186 L.H. Lock Plate 47 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring
    42 6030155 Main Spring 48 6030161 Hammer
    43 6030156 Main Spring Plunger 48a 6993184 L.H. Hammer
    44 6030157 Tumbler 49 6011127 Sear Screw
    Note:Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the
    stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.
    Components
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    38 6993320 Bridle Screw
    39 6993321 Hammer Screw
    40 6993322 Bridle
    41 6993323 Lock Plate
    42 6030155 Main Spring
    43 6993324 Main Spring Plunger
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    44 6993325 Tumbler
    45 6030158 Fly
    46 6993326 Sear
    47 6993327 Sear Plunger & Spring
    48 6993328 Hammer
    49 6993329 Sear Screw
    Percussion Lock Assembly–Stainless Steel 
    						
    							31
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    16030151 Bridle Screw
    26030153 Bridle
    36030181 Lock Plate
    3a 6993187 L.H. Lock Plate
    46030182 Frizzen
    56030183 Frizzen Spring*
    5a 6993191 L.H. Frizzen Spring*
    66030184 Frizzen Spring Screw
    76030185 Frizzen Screw
    86030155 Main Spring
    96030156 Main Spring Plunger
    10 6030157 Tumbler
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    10a 6993189 L.H. Tumbler
    11 6030158 Fly
    12 6030159 Sear
    12a 6993188 L.H. Sear
    13 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring
    14 6030186 Hammer
    14a 6993185 L.H. Hammer
    15 6030187 Hammer Jaw
    16 6030188 Jaw Screw
    17 – Leather**
    18 – Flint**
    19 6011127 Sear Screw
    Components Flintlock Lock Assembly
    For Great Plains, Trade and
    Deerstalker Flint Models
    Note:Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the
    stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.
    * Not shown in illustration
    **Not available from Lyman 
    						
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    LYMAN PLAINS PISTOL
    Lymans Plains Pistol recreates the trappers pistol of the mid-1800s while incor-
    porating the best of modern steels and technology.
    All steel parts on the finished gun are polished and blued - except for the belt
    hook.  The percussion lock is hardened internally with a color-case hardened
    lockplate and hammer on both the kit and finished gun.
    Your Plains Pistol is designed to fire a tightly patched roundball accurately at
    various charge levels.  Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the “Maxi” or Minie
    ball.  The conical bullets are very heavy, compared to a patched  round-ball, and
    are very likely to slip towards the muzzle if the loaded pistol is carried on the
    belt.  The resultant space between bullet and powder could produce a bulged or
    burst barrel under certain conditions.
    Note:Breech plugs and barrels not sold 
    separately, only as factory-assembled units.
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    26 6030151 Bridle Screws*
    27 6030152 Hammer Screw*
    28 6011124 Bridle-Pl. Pistol
    29 6011125 Lock Plate-Pl. Pistol
    30 6030155 Main Spring*
    31 6030156 Main Spring Plunger*
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    32 6030157 Tumbler*
    34 6011137 Sear
    35 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring*
    36 6011126 Hammer
    37 6011127 Sear Screw*
    Percussion Lock Assembly
    Dwg. PartPc. Mk. Number Description
    16030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal)
    1a 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal)
    26011102 Tang-Pl. Pistol
    36011103 Tang Screw-Pl. Pistol
    46030122 Breech Plug
    56030123 Cleanout Plug
    66030124 Nipple 6 x .75mm
    76011104 Rear Sight-Pl. Pistol
    86011106 Barrel (.50) Blued;
    Pl. Pistol
    8a 6011107 Barrel (.54) Blued;
    Pl. Pistol
    96011108 Front Sight-Pl. Pistol
    10 6011109Barrel Rib w/attached
    ferrule-Pl. Pistol
    11 6011110Barrel Rib Screw-Pl. Pistol
    12 6011111
    Ramrod-Pl. Pistol (10-32 thread)13 6011112Stock (finished)-Pl. Pistol
    13a 6011113 Stock (kit)-Pl. Pistol
    14 6011114Lock Assembly-Pl. Pistol
    15 6011115 Lock Mounting Screw
    Pl. Pistol
    16 6011116 Belt Hook-Pl. Pistol
    17 6011117 Lock Screw Bushing
    18 6011118Escutcheon Screw-Pl. Pistol
    19 6011119 Wedge-Pl. Pistol*
    20 6011120 Escutcheon-Pl. Pistol
    21 6011121
    Forend Cap Screw-Pl. Pistol
    22 6011122 Forend Cap-Pl. Pistol
    23 6011123
    Trigger Assembly-Pl. Pistol24 6011128 Trigger Guard-Pl. Pistol
    25 6011129Trigger Guard Screw-Pl. Pistol
    Stock and Lock Group
    Shooting Caution: Do not carry your loaded Plains
    Pistol with a percussion cap on the nipple. This is
    just as unsafe as carrying a single-action revolver
    with a primed chamber under the hammer - even if
    the hammer is on the safety notch.
    *Interchangeable with lock parts from the Great Plains Rifle, Deerstalker and Trade Rifle. *Note:The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Sights are also installed from the right to
    the left. Sights are removed from the left to the right. 
    						
    							33
    Instructions for Lyman
    Assembly Kits
    INTRODUCTION
    The materials provided in Lyman Kits have been selected for their overall
    quality and durability.  Proper assembly will enable you to create a muzzle-
    loading firearm having the quality lines of an expensive custom piece.
    Read these instructions thoroughly before you actually begin assembly.
    There are several critical steps - and others that will save considerable time
    within the instructions.  Reading the instructions will give you a better under-
    standing of the task and allow you to mentally sequence the events before
    beginning work.
    TOOLS REQUIRED
    We recommend that you obtain a copy of Brownells Gunsmith Tool Catalog.
    You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the
    material you cannot find locally.
    Brownells Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171
    Carving Tools–The wood work required to complete this kit could be done
    with ordinary hobby knives, but a set of wood carving tools will simplify any
    carving required.
    Rasps–You will need a straight rasp for rough shaping the exterior of the
    stock to final dimensions.  The Surform tools produced by Stanley will do a
    satisfactory job.
    Sand Paper–Grades 80 through 320.
    Files–(1) 10 or 12 inch mill file
    (2) 1/4 inch wide pillar file
    (3) 1/4 inch three square file
    Electric Drill and Bits–
    (1) 3/32 inch
    (2) 1/16 inch
    (3) 1/8 inch
    SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS - INLETTING
    The stock of your Lyman kit is, at least, 95% inletted. You will find that most,
    if not all, the major parts will fit properly with no additional inletting required.
    However, we have chosen to be very meticulous and present the inletting of
    each part with greater detail and emphasis than is likely to be required.
    Throughout these instructions you will be instructed to blackenthe part prior
    to inletting, then to look for the black transfer marks, indicating where excess
    material is to be removed. These instructions refer to a technique where a part
    is coated with a transfer agent (such as soot, Prussian Blue, lipstick or similar
    substance) then inserted into the semi-inletted stock and lightly tapped into
    place. When the part is removed, the transfer agent will remain on the stock
    showing where wood is to be removed or the fit is perfect. If you have never
    inletted a stock before, it is important for you to realize the presence of a black
    transfer mark does not automatically indicate removal of material.
    NOTE: CONSULT THE PARTS DIAGRAM IN THIS GUIDE AS NEEDED. 
    						
    							34
    Example:Assume that you are inletting the lock assembly. After you remove
    the lock for the first time you will note the black transfer marks in the cavity.
    Little black will be apparent around the edges of the lock. Black marks will be
    located within the cavity showing where wood is to be removed to allow the
    working parts of the lock to fit. You will continue to coat the part with transfer
    agent, reinsert it into the cavity, continue inletting gradually dropping the lock
    into place. As the lock is lowered into position the edge of the lock plate will
    come into contact with the stock. At this time you must proceed very slowly.
    Wood is actually shaved from the cavity where the edge of the lock plate
    meets the stock. When the lock plate is properly inletted, light transfer marks
    will be apparent around the edges of the cavity. If these light transfer marks
    were to be removed you would create gaps between the edge of the lock plate
    and the surface of the stock, a condition that is not desirable.
    There are two simple ways to obtain a suitable transfer agent.
    One is to coat the part with soot from a smoking candle. The smoke from the
    candle flame is played on the part. This technique is very effective when fit-
    ting metal to metal. Add a few drops of oil at the wick base if your candle
    does not smoke enough. The second way to obtain a transfer agent is to pur-
    chase a bottle of “inletting black” from a gunsmith supply house.
    KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
    GREAT PLAINS RIFLE AND PLAINS PISTOL
    The first step in assembly is with the barrel group. The barrel is to be partially
    finished first so that it can be readily inletted into the stock.
    1. Draw Filing the Barrel–Draw filing is used primarily to shave away the
    tool marks left on the barrel by the precision milling operation; secondarily
    to dress the patent breech to the barrel.
    During draw filing, the file is held such that it makes a right angle with the axis
    of the barrel (refer to Figure 1). Holding the file with both hands, it is lightly
    drawn down the entire length of the barrel, shaving metal away as it travels.
    Begin by securing the barrel in a padded vise and start draw filing the entire
    barrel, one flat at a time. Start at the muzzle and draw the file towards you,
    making sure that the file is held flat against the barrel. Do not allow the file to
    rock side to side during the draw, as this will cause rounded edges.
    Continue filing, one flat at a time, until each flat of the barrel is completely
    free of milling tool marks, and the breech plug is flush with the barrel flats.
    Take your time.
    When the draw file has been completed, lightly oil the entire barrel to prevent
    rust. The final polishing of the barrel will be done after all inletting has been
    completed. 
    						
    							2. Fitting the Tang to the Breech Plug–The tang and the lug on the breech-
    plug may require hand-fitting to provide the proper fit when the barrel is
    hooked into position. The fit described below will assure a rigid barrel/stock
    assembly that will promote excellent accuracy in the finished rifle or pistol.
    Caution:This step is often unnecessary as it is factory fitted.
    You will note that when the tang is first installed onto the breech plug it may
    not lie flat, in contact with the rear of the breech plug.
    The idea now is to carefully file away the surface (“A”) of the breech plug
    lug until the tang mounts flush with the plug with a small amount of pressure
    applied. Over-cutting of the top surface will cause the tang to fit loosely and
    may affect accuracy.
    Blacken the entire surface of the projecting lug on the breech plug. Hook
    the tang onto the lug. Remove the tang and examine the upper surface of the
    lug. White marks (soot rubbed away) will indicate where excess metal is to be
    filed away. Carefully file away excess metal, reblacken the lug and hook the
    tang back into position. Repeat the filing and fitting process until the top flat
    of the tang is parallel with the top flat of the barrel.
    3.Inletting the Stock–The stock of your Lyman muzzleloader is a very 
    delicate piece of wood, and requires considerable care when metal parts are
    fitted to it. Pressure incorrectly applied when inletting could well result in a
    cracked stock.
    The areas of the tang, barrel breech and the lock are particularly delicate.
    Large amounts of wood have been removed from these areas to 
    accommodate hardware. These areas are very likely to be damaged if
    improper care is taken during the inletting process. The following 
    instructions describe how to proceed during each critical step. With 
    reasonable care, good results will be obtained.
    4. Inletting of the Lock Screw Bushing or Plains Pistol Belt Hook–The
    lockscrew bushing should be inletted flush with the stock surface. Blacken
    the underside of the bushing and press it into its stock cavity. Remove the
    bushing and carefully cut away excess wood within the cavity. Continue the
    process until the bushing is completely inletted and bottoms in the cavity.
    NOTE: Should the bushing become stuck in position before inletting is
    complete, it can be easily removed by inserting the lock screw into the
    screw hole from the lock cavity side of the stock, and carefully tapping out
    the bushing.
    35
    Adjust fit until flats of tang meets flats of
    breech plug. A slight amount of pressure to
    make contact is desired.
    Surface “A”
    FIGURE 2 
    						
    							36
    5. Inletting the Lock Assembly–First, draw the hammer back to full cock.  Apply
    transfer agent to plate edges. Position the lock over its cavity in the stock. Insert
    the lock mounting screw and slowly tighten it, drawing the lock down into posi-
    tion. Draw down only until resistance is met. Remove the lock and examine the
    cavity for black transfer marks. Carefully cut away excess wood.
    NOTE: If you remove too much wood from the inner surface where the stock
    and the edge of the lock plate meet, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only
    small amounts of wood at a time. Do not over-tighten the lock screw when
    drawing the lock into position. If the cavity has not been fully inletted, the lock
    will act as a wedge and a cracked stock will result. Continue the inletting
    process until the lock has been inletted to a point where the surface of the lock
    plate is just above the surface of the stock. Final inletting will take place later.
    6. Inletting the Tang and Barrel Assembly–Remove the forend cap from the stock.
    Install the lock.
    Hook the tang on the breech plug and set the entire tang/ barrel assembly into the
    stock. Carefully note the position of the bolster (on the breech plug) with regard to
    the circular cutout on the lock. It should align closely.
    Inletting of the tang/barrel assembly must allow the bolster to fit into the 
    circular cutout on the lock when inletting is completed.
    If further inletting is needed, blacken the underside of the tang and set it into 
    position, noting with a pencil mark. Carefully tap into place, then remove and cut
    away excess wood. Continue this process until the tang has been inletted to 90%
    of its depth in the stock. During the course of this inletting, periodically install the
    barrel on the tang to check for bolster alignment with the lock.
    Once the tang has been inletted to near full depth, proceed by inletting the barrel
    and tang as an assembly. Blacken the undersides of both the barrel and tang. Cut
    away any excess wood from both the tang area and the barrel channel until the
    assembly is fully inletted, and the bolster makes contact with the circular lock
    plate cutout. When this contact has been made, remove the lock and continue
    inletting to full depth. The barrel wedge(s) can be inserted into the barrel tenon(s).
    A slight amount of pressure should be required to insert the wedge(s). Note that on
    the Great Plains Rifle the longer wedge should be installed closest to breech.
    7. Final Inletting of the Lock and Barrel Assembly–Great Plains: Set the tang
    and barrel into position, note the location of the two tang screws They should
    line up with the holes in the tang. When complete, mount the tang in position.
    Hook the barrel to the tang and install. Do not force the barrel down. You may
    find that additional inletting behind the breech plug is required to clear the
    breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot.
    Plains Pistol: Set the tang and barrel into position and, when complete, mount the tang
    in position. The single tang screw goes through a pre-drilled stock hole and anchors in
    a threaded hole in the top of the trigger plate. Make sure the screw aligns properly so
    the tang screw threads wont be stripped. Hook the barrel to the tang and install. 
    Do not force the barrel down. You may find that additional inletting behind the breech
    plug is required to clear the breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot. 
    						
    							37
    NOTE: Gap between lower barrel flat and bottom forend channel should not
    exceed 1/16.
    At this stage you should complete inletting of the lock to its full depth so the inside
    shoulder of the lock makes solid contact with the side flat of the barrel, and the bol-
    ster of the breech plug fits properly into the circular cutout of the lock. Install the
    lock assembly. Blacken the underside of the bolster and reinsert the barrel assembly
    in the stock. The barrel may not go back into its fully inletted position.
    If not, the interference will be caused by the bolster being slightly out of position
    with the circular cutout of the lock (refer to figure 3). Remove the barrel and exam-
    ine the underside of the bolster for interference marks. Carefully file away excess
    metal on the bolster, using a rotation motion as you file.  Repeat the blackening and
    trial fit process until the barrel has been returned to its fully inletted position. Note:
    Proper fit is achieved when there is a slight clearance between the bolster and the
    circular cutout. At final assembly the lock must be able to be removed with the bar-
    rel in position.
    Flintlock Note: The lock must contact flat of barrel to prevent priming powder from
    collecting inside lock.  If ignited, this powder will explode, ruining the rifle and
    probably causing injury.
    Install the barrel using the barrel wedge to hold it in place. Remove the lock assem-
    bly and blacken the underside. Continue the inletting of the lock until the inside
    shoulder of the lock is in full contact with the side flat of the barrel.  When the lock
    has been fully inletted, carefully pull the hammer back to check for interference
    with internal working parts. The lock should cock freely. If resistance is felt, exam-
    ine the lock cavity to ensure that all rotating parts have clearance.
    8. Inletting the Trigger Assembly–Blacken the underside of the trigger assem-
    bly. Insert the assembly to the rear of the trigger cavity. Remove the trigger 
    assembly and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting process until the
    trigger plate has been inletted slightly below the surface of the stock.
    Locate the position of the trigger assembly mount screw. On the Great Plains
    Rifle use the 1/16 inch drill to drill the pilot hole. Install the trigger assembly.
    FUNCTION TEST:Make certain that the hammer is in the down position.
    Check triggers for freedom of movement.
    Great Plains Rifle–Set the rear trigger and release the set trigger by pulling on
    the front trigger. If both triggers operate freely, you have adequate clearance.
    If not, remove the trigger assembly, examine the cavity for black transfer marks
    and cut away interfering wood.
    Plains Pistol–Secure the trigger assembly by installing and tightening the tang screw.
    9. Inletting the Trigger Guard–Great Plains: Use a mill file and carefully
    remove any burrs from around the bottom edges of the two flats of the trigger
    guard. The outer edges should be completely finished before inletting. 
    The exterior surface of the trigger guard can be finished later. Blacken the
    underside of the two flats of the guard, and insert the guard into its cavity.
    Remove and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting until the trigger
    guard has been inletted flush with the surface of the stock. Locate the position
    for the two pilot holes and, using the 3/32 drill, drill the two pilot holes for the
    trigger guard screws. Install the trigger guard.
    Plains Pistol: Your Plains Pistol Kit has the trigger guard factory-installed. 
    No holes need be drilled by the builder and little, if any, inletting will be 
    necessary. However, some fitting of the trigger guard over the trigger assembly
    may be necessary to permit the trigger guard to return to its original position,
    flush with rifle stock.
    If such fitting is necessary, spot and file the underside of the brass trigger guard
    as needed. 
    						
    							38
    The trigger guard should be left on the stock during all stages of wood shaping and
    finishing. However, the correct fit is flush with the finished stock. After the stock has
    received its final sanding, the trigger guard can be removed for final polish and later
    installation on the stained and finished stock.
    10. Inletting the Butt Plate (Rifles Only) and Forend Cap–Both the butt plate and
    nose cap have been factory-installed to protect the exposed ends of the stock.
    Additional fitting may be necessary for perfect fit.
    Remove the butt plate and blacken the underside. Install. Then remove and cut
    away excess wood. Continue this process until no wood-to-metal gaps are apparent.
    Final fitting will take place when the stock is shaped. Note: In some instances, only
    a minor amount of metal prevents an excellent fit. Judicious filing and spotting
    often causes the butt plate to fit perfectly with little or no wood removal.
    The forend cap is inletted in the same manner with an additional operation required.
    Once the forend cap has been fully inletted, install the barrel. Note any interference
    between the cap and barrel, and carefully file away excess cap metal. The cap
    should not make contact with the barrel, a 1/64 inch gap is desirable.
    11. Inletting the Escutcheons–Place the barrel in the stock. Each escutcheon is 
    inletted separately using the barrel wedge as a locating guide.
    Blacken the underside of an escutcheon plate. Place the plate in position over its
    cavity and insert the barrel wedge. Lightly tap the wedge down to hold the plate in
    position. Do not overdo this or the plate will be deformed. Check the plate for 
    position and make sure the cavity is completely covered by the plate. Select a knife
    with a small, thin blade and carefully cut a line around the edge of the plate. Use
    only the point of the blade and position the knife so the cut is angled toward the
    center of the plate.
    Remove the plate and, using the knife cut as a guide, cut away excess wood directly
    to the bottom of the cavity. Make certain the cuts stay slightly to the inside of the
    knife scribe mark. Repeat the process for the second plate. Pilot holes are not
    required for the escutcheon plate screws. Use the point of a knife or small nail to
    locate the center of the hole and install the screws.
    12. Finishing the Barrel–When the barrel has been completely inletted into the stock,
    work may proceed with final finishing of the barrel. The draw filing operation is
    now to be followed by successive passes of polishing with abrasive paper. First,
    select a medium-coarse grit emery paper, followed with successively finer grits up
    to 240 grit wet or dry paper. Wrap a piece of the grit around the file used to 
    draw-file the barrel. The draw-polishing is accomplished in the same manner used
    to draw-file the barrel. Polish all flats, including the breech plug, until a satisfactory
    polish has been achieved.
    13. Metal Coloring–All steel fittings (except the lock and trigger assembly), 
    including the barrel, of your Lyman muzzleloader require some form of metal 
    finish, These may be polished with successively finer grades of emery paper or left as
    is prior to finishing depending on the builders taste.
    Traditionally, rifles and pistols of this type had the “iron mountings” browned. The kit
    builder may choose to cold blue these parts if he prefers a more modern type of finish.
    Metal finishing can be accomplished by dismounting all the steel parts from the stock
    and applying the metal finish according to the chemical manufacturers instructions.
    CAUTION:The ramrod thimbles on the Great Plains Rifle, and Plains Pistol are 
    soldered to the barrel rib in the same fashion as many originals. Since some browning
    solutions require the use of heat, caution should be used to assure the part is not heated
    enough to loosen the soldered bond. 
    						
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