Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 09 Rover Manual

							Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliper to
the front suspension coil spring to avoid placing
any strain on the hydraulic brake hose.
7Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship
of the disc to the hub, then remove the two
screws securing the brake disc to the hub and
remove the disc. If the disc is a tight fit on the
hub it can be drawn off by screwing two bolts
into the jacking holes provided (see
illustrations).
Refitting
8Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the
disc and hub are clean and flat.
b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on
removal.
c) If a new disc has been fitted, use a
suitable solvent to wipe any preservative
coating from the disc before refitting the
caliper.
d) Tighten the disc retaining screws, caliper
bracket bolts and roadwheel nuts to their
specified torque wrench settings.
14 Pressure regulating valve-
testing, removal and refitting
3
Testing
1The pressure regulating valve is mounted
on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment bulkhead.
2Specialist equipment is required to check
valve performance. If the valve is thought to
be faulty, the vehicle should be taken to a
suitably equipped Rover dealer for testing.
However, in the event of an internal failure,
brake fluid will seep from the plug on the front
face of the valve which is situated directly
above the lower two hose unions (see
illustration). Repairs are not possible and, if
faulty, the valve must be renewed.
Removal
3Disconnect the sender unit wiring
connector and unscrew the master cylinder
reservoir filler cap. Place a piece of polythene
over the filler neck and securely refit the cap
(taking care not to damage the sender unit).
This will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations. As an added
precaution, place absorbent rags beneath the
pressure regulating valve brake pipe unions.
4Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe
unions on the pressure regulating valve, then
make a note of how the pipes are arranged for
reference on refitting. Unscrew the union nuts
and carefully withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape
over the pipe ends and valve orifices to
minimise the loss of brake fluid and to prevent
the entry of dirt into the system. Wash off any
spilt fluid immediately with cold water.
5Slacken the two bolts which secure the
valve to the bulkhead and remove it from the
engine compartment.
Refitting
6Refit the pressure regulating valve to the
bulkhead and tighten its mounting bolts
securely.
7Wipe the brake pipe unions clean and refit
them to the valve, using the notes made ondismantling to ensure they are correctly
positioned. Tighten the union nuts to the
specified torque.
8Remove the polythene from the master
cylinder reservoir filler neck and bleed the
complete hydraulic system.
15 Rear brake shoes-
inspection
Refer to Chapter 1.
16 Rear brake shoes- renewal
3
Warning: Brake shoes must be
renewed on both rear wheels at
the same time. Never renew the
shoes on only one wheel as uneven
braking may result.
Removal
1Remove the brake drum.
2Working carefully and noting all
precautions, remove all traces of brake dust
from the brake drum, backplate and shoes.
3Measure the thickness of friction material
remaining on each brake shoe at several
points. If either shoe is worn at any point to
the specified minimum thickness or less, all
four shoes must be renewed as a set. Also,
the shoes should be renewed if any are fouled
with oil or grease as there is no satisfactory
way of degreasing friction material once
contaminated.
4If any of the brake shoes are worn unevenly
or fouled with oil or grease, trace and rectify
the cause before reassembly.
5To remove the brake shoes, first remove
the shoe retainer springs and pins, using a
pair of pliers to press in each retainer clip until
it can be rotated through 90º and released.
Ease the shoes out one at a time from the
Braking system  9•11
14.2  In the event of failure, fluid will seep
from pressure regulating valve plug
(arrowed)
13.7b  Drawing off a disc using two 8 mm bolts13.7a  Removing disc retaining screws (jacking holes arrowed)
9
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							lower pivot point to release the tension of the
return spring, then disconnect the lower return
spring from both shoes. Ease the upper end
of both shoes out from their wheel cylinder
locations, taking great care not to damage the
wheel cylinder seals, and disconnect the
handbrake cable from the trailing shoe. The
brake shoe and adjuster strut assembly can
now be manoeuvred out of position and away
from the backplate (see illustrations). Do not
depress the brake pedal until the brakes are
reassembled. Wrap a strong elastic band
around the wheel cylinder pistons to retain
them.
6With the brake shoe assembly on the
worksurface, make a note of the fitted
positions of the adjuster strut and springs to
use as guide on reassembly (see illustration).
Carefully ease the adjuster strut from its slot in
the trailing shoe and remove the short spring
which secures the two components together.
Detach the upper return spring and separate
the shoes and strut.
7Examine the adjuster strut assembly for
signs of wear or damage, paying particular
attention to the adjuster quadrant and knurled
wheel. If damaged, the strut assembly must
be renewed. Renew all the brake shoe return
springs regardless of their apparent condition.
8Peel back the rubber protective caps and
check the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks or
other damage.  Check that both cylinder
pistons are free to move easily.
Fitting
9Prior to fitting, clean the backplate and
apply a thin smear of high-temperature brake
grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-
based) or anti-seize compound (eg Holts
Copaslip) to all those surfaces of the
backplate which bear on the shoes,
particularly the adjuster and the wheel
cylinder pistons. Do not allow lubricant to foul
the friction material.
10Ensure the handbrake lever stop on the
trailing shoe is correctly engaged with the
lever and is pressed tight against the brake
shoe (see illustration).
11Fully extend the adjuster strut quadrant
and fit the leading brake shoe into the adjuster
strut slot, ensuring that the strut spring and
9•12 Braking system
16.10  Ensure handbrake stop lever is
correctly located16.6  Correct fitted positions of adjuster
strut and springs16.5d  . . . and manoeuvre shoe and adjuster
strut assembly away from backplate
16.5c  . . . unhook lower return spring . . .16.5b  Remove brake shoe retainer 
springs . . .
16.5a  Rear drum brake assembly
1 Brake drum
2 Drum retaining screw
3 Backplate
4 Lower return spring
5 Brake shoe
6 Retainer pin and spring7 Adjuster strut
8 Strut spring
9 Upper return spring
10 Wheel cylinder retaining
bolt11 Bleed screw
12 Backplate mounting bolt
13 Seal
14 Wheel cylinder
15 Grommet
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							knurled wheel are situated on the underside of
the strut assembly. Using a screwdriver, move
the quadrant away from the knurled wheel
and set it in the minimum adjustment position.
12Fit the upper return spring to its
respective location on the leading shoe. Fit
the trailing shoe to the upper return spring
and carefully ease the shoe into position in the
adjuster strut slot. Once in position, fit the
small spring which secures the trailing shoe to
the strut assembly.
13Remove the elastic band fitted to the wheel
cylinder and manoeuvre the shoe and strut
assembly into position on the backplate.
Locate the upper end of both shoes with the
wheel cylinder pistons and fit the handbrake
cable to the trailing shoe operating lever. Fit the
lower return spring to both shoes and ease the
shoes into position on the lower pivot point.
14Tap the shoes to centralise them with the
backplate, then refit the shoe retainer pins
and springs and secure them in position with
the retainer clips. Check that the adjuster
quadrant is still in the minimum adjuster
position and if necessary, reset as follows.
Place a block of wood between the trailing
shoe and hub, to prevent the shoe moving
forwards, then lever the leading shoe away
from the hub to release the brake shoe return
spring pressure on the adjuster quadrant.
With the shoe held in this position, reset the
quadrant to the minimum adjustment setting
(see illustration). Once the adjuster strut is
correctly set, ease the leading shoe back into
position then remove the block of wood and
check that the shoes are still central.15Refit the brake drum and repeat the above
operation on the remaining rear brake
assembly.
16On completion, apply the footbrake
repeatedly to set the shoe-to-drum clearance,
until normal (non-assisted) brake pedal
operation returns.
17Check handbrake cable operation and, if
necessary, adjust as described in Chapter 1.
18Refit the roadwheels then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.
19Check the hydraulic fluid level.
17 Rear brake drum- removal,
inspection and refitting
2
Note:If either brake drum requires renewal,
both should be renewed at the same time to
ensure even and consistent braking.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate rear wheel.
2Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship
of the drum to the hub.
3With the handbrake firmly applied to
prevent drum rotation, unscrew the drum
retaining screws (see illustration). Fully
release the handbrake cable and withdraw the
drum.
4If the drum will not pull away, first check
that the handbrake is fully released. If the
drum will still not come away, remove the
grommet from the rear of the backplate and,
using a small screwdriver, disengage the
handbrake lever stop from behind the lever to
increase the shoe to drum clearance. If
removal still proves troublesome, the brake
drum can be drawn off by screwing two bolts
into the jacking holes provided (see
illustrations).
Inspection
5Working carefully, remove all traces of
brake dust from the drum. Avoid inhaling the
dust as it is injurious to health.
6Scrub clean the outside of the drum 
and check it for obvious signs of wear or
damage such as cracks around the road-
wheel stud holes. Renew the drum if
necessary.
7Examine carefully the inside of the drum.
Light scoring of the friction surface is normal
but if heavy scoring is found, the drum must
be renewed. It is usual to find a lip on the
drum’s inboard edge which consists of a
mixture of rust and brake dust. This should be
scraped away to leave a smooth surface
which can be polished with fine (120 to 150
grade) emery paper. If, however, the lip is due
to the friction surface being recessed by
excessive wear, then the drum must be
renewed.
8If the drum is thought to be excessively
worn or oval, its internal diameter must be
measured at several points by using an
internal micrometer. Take measurements in
pairs, the second at right angles to the first,
and compare the two to check for signs of
ovality. Provided that it does not enlarge the
drum to beyond the specified maximum
diameter, it may be possible to have the drum
refinished by skimming or grinding but if this
is not possible, the drums on both sides must
be renewed
.
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) On fitting a new brake drum, use a
suitable solvent to remove any
preservative coating that may have been
applied to its interior.
b) Use a clean wire brush to remove all
traces of dirt, brake dust and corrosion
from the mating surfaces of the drum and
the hub flange.
c) Align (if applicable) the marks made on
removal.
d) Tighten the drum retaining screws and the
roadwheel nuts to their specified torque
wrench settings.
Braking system  9•13
16.14  Reset adjuster strut prior to refitting
drum
17.4b  Brake drum can be drawn off hub by
using two 8 mm bolts
17.4a  Releasing handbrake mechanism
stop lever
Remove rubber grommet (A) and use small
screwdriver to depress handbrake lever 
stop (B)
17.3  Removing brake drum retaining
screws (jacking holes arrowed)
9
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							18 Rear wheel cylinder-
removal, overhaul and refitting
4
Note:Before attempting to overhaul a rear
wheel cylinder, check the price and availability
of individual components and the price of a
new or reconditioned unit, as overhaul may
not be viable on economic grounds alone.
Removal
1Remove the brake shoes.
2Minimise fluid loss by removing the master
cylinder reservoir cap and then tightening it
down onto a piece of polythene to obtain an
airtight seal (taking care not to damage the
sender unit), or by using a brake hose clamp,
a G-clamp or a similar tool to clamp the
flexible hose.
3Wipe away all traces of dirt around the
brake pipe union at the rear of the wheel
cylinder and unscrew the union nut. Carefully
ease the pipe out of the wheel cylinder and
plug or tape over its end to prevent dirt entry
(see illustration).
4Unscrew the two wheel cylinder retaining
bolts from the rear of the backplate and
remove the cylinder, noting the rubber sealing
ring which is fitted between the cylinder and
backplate.
Overhaul
5Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicle
and clean it thoroughly.
6Mount the wheel cylinder in a soft-jawed
vice and remove the rubber protective caps.
Extract the piston assemblies.
7Thoroughly clean all components using
only methylated spirit, isopropyl alcohol or
clean hydraulic fluid as a cleaning medium.
Never use mineral-based solvents such as
petrol or paraffin which will attack the
hydraulic system’s rubber components. Dry
the components immediately using
compressed air or a clean, lint-free cloth.
8Check all components and renew any that
are worn or damaged. Check particularly the
cylinder bore and pistons. The complete
assembly must be renewed if these arescratched, worn or corroded. If there is any
doubt about the condition of the assembly or
of any of its components, renew it. Remove
the bleed screw and check that the fluid entry
port and bleed screw passages are clear.
9If the assembly is fit for further use, obtain a
repair kit. Renew the rubber protective caps,
dust caps and seals disturbed on dismantling,
these should never be re-used. Renew also
any other items included in the repair kit.
10On reassembly, soak the pistons and the
new seals in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear
clean fluid on the cylinder bore surface.
11Fit the new seals to their pistons using
only the fingers to manipulate them into the
grooves. Ensure that all components are
refitted in the correct order and the right way
round.
12Insert the pistons into the bore using a
twisting motion to avoid trapping the seal lips.
Apply a smear of rubber lubricant to each
piston before fitting the new rubber protective
caps.
Refitting
13Fit a new sealing ring to the rear of the
wheel cylinder and place the cylinder in
position on the backplate.
14Refit the wheel cylinder retaining bolts
and tighten them to the specified torque.
15Tighten the brake pipe union nut and, if
necessary, remove the clamp from the brake
hose.
16Refit the brake shoes.
17Bleed the hydraulic braking system. If
precautions were taken to minimise fluid loss,
it should only be necessary to bleed the
relevant rear brake. On completion, check
that both footbrake and handbrake function
correctly before taking the vehicle on the
road.
19 Rear brake pads- 
inspection
Refer to Chapter 1.
20 Rear brake pads-
renewal
2
Warning: Renew both sets of
rear brake pads at the same
time. Never renew the pads on
only one wheel as uneven braking may
result.
Removal
1Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Remove the rear roadwheels.
2Undo the two bolts securing the caliper
shield in position and remove the shield from
the rear of the caliper.
3Remove both caliper guide pin bolts whilst,if necessary, using a slim open-ended
spanner to prevent the guide pins from
rotating. Lift the caliper away from the disc,
noting the upper pad spring which is fitted to
the roof of the caliper. Tie the caliper to the
suspension strut using a piece of wire to avoid
straining the hydraulic hose (see illustration).
4Remove the brake pads from the caliper
mounting bracket whilst noting the correct
fitted positions of the brake pads, pad retainer
springs and pad shims.
5Inspect the pads as described for the front
brake pads and, if necessary, renew as a
complete axle set.
Fitting
6Fit the pad retainer springs to the caliper
mounting bracket.
7Apply a thin smear of Molykote M77
compound to the sides and back of each
pad’s metal backing and to those surfaces of
the caliper body and mounting bracket which
bear on the pads. In the absence of the
specified lubricant, a good quality high-
temperature brake grease (silicone- or
PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-based) or anti-seize
compound (eg Holts Copaslip) may be used.
Fit the shims to the back of both pads, noting
that the smaller shim must be fitted to the
piston side pad, and apply a thin smear of
lubricant to the back of each shim. Do not
allow lubricant to foul the friction material.
8Install the brake pads in the caliper
mounting bracket, ensuring that the friction
material is against the disc and the pad with
the smaller shim attached is fitted on the
inside.
9If new pads have been fitted, it will be
necessary to retract the piston fully into the
caliper bore by rotating it in a clockwise
direction. This can be achieved by using a
suitable pair of circlip pliers as a peg spanner
or by fabricating a peg spanner for the task.
Provided that the master cylinder reservoir
has not been overfilled with hydraulic fluid,
there should be no spillage, but keep a careful
watch on the fluid level while retracting the
piston. If the fluid level rises above the MAX
level line at any time, the surplus should be
syphoned off or ejected via a plastic tube
connected to the bleed screw.
10Ensure the upper pad spring is still in
position in the caliper then slide the caliper
into position in its mounting bracket. When
fitting the caliper, ensure that the lug on the
rear of the piston side pad is located in one of
the piston slots. Refit the caliper guide pin
bolts and tighten them to the specified torque
setting.
11Depress the footbrake to bring the piston
into contact with the pads then check that the
lug on the piston side pad is located in one of
the piston slots. If necessary, remove the
caliper and adjust the piston position as
described above. Refit the shield to the rear of
the caliper.
12Repeat the above procedure on the
remaining rear brake caliper.
9•14 Braking system
18.3  Wheel cylinder retaining bolts (A) and
brake pipe union nut (B)
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							13Once both calipers have been done,
repeatedly depress the brake pedal until
normal (non-assisted) pedal operation returns,
then repeatedly apply the handbrake to set
handbrake adjustment. Check the operation
of the handbrake and, if necessary, adjust the
cable as described in Chapter 1.
14Refit the roadwheels, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.
15Check the hydraulic fluid level.21 Rear brake caliper- 
removal, overhaul and refitting
4
Removal
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Remove the rear wheel.
2Undo the two bolts securing the calipershield in position and remove the shield from
the rear of the caliper.
3Extract the spring clip and clevis pin
securing the handbrake cable to the caliper
handbrake lever, then remove the clip
securing the outer cable to its mounting
bracket and detach the handbrake cable from
the caliper.
4Minimise fluid loss by removing the master
cylinder reservoir cap and then tightening it
down onto a piece of polythene to obtain an
airtight seal (taking care not to damage the
sender unit), or by using a brake hose clamp,
a G-clamp or a similar tool to clamp the
flexible hose.
5Clean the area around the hose union, then
undo the brake hose union bolt and
disconnect the hose from the caliper. Plug the
end of the hose and the caliper orifice to
prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.
Discard the sealing washers as they must be
renewed whenever disturbed.
6Remove both the caliper guide pin bolts
whilst, if necessary, using a slim open-ended
spanner to prevent the guide pins from
rotating, then lift the caliper away from the
disc, noting the upper pad spring which is
fitted to the roof of the caliper. Note that the
brake pads need not be disturbed and can 
be left in position in the caliper mounting
bracket.
Overhaul
7With the caliper on the bench, wipe away all
traces of dust and dirt. Avoid inhaling the dust
as it is injurious to health.
8Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise
out the dust seal from the caliper bore.
9Remove the piston from the caliper bore by
rotating it in an anti-clockwise direction. This
can be achieved using a suitable pair of circlip
pliers as a peg spanner or by fabricating a peg
spanner for the task. Once the piston turns
freely but does not come out any further, then
it can be withdrawn by hand, or if necessary,
pushed out by applying compressed air to the
union bolt hole. Only low pressure should be
required such as is generated by a foot pump.
10With the piston removed, extract the
circlip from inside the piston and withdraw the
thrustwasher, spring and adjuster nut.
11Remove the piston (fluid) seal whilst
taking great care not to scratch the caliper
bore.
12Extract the circlip from the caliper bore
and withdraw the spring cover, spring, spring
seat, bearing and adjusting bolt. Then remove
the adjusting bolt piston, noting the O-ring
fitted to the rear of the piston, and withdraw
the small pushrod.
13Slacken and remove the handbrake lever
retaining nut and washer and remove the
return spring, lever and dust seal. Withdraw
the handbrake mechanism cam from the
caliper and remove the cam washer.
14Withdraw the guide pins from the caliper
mounting bracket and remove the guide pin
gaiters.
Braking system  9•15
9
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
20.3  Rear brake caliper components
1 Handbrake lever retaining
nut
2 Washer
3 Return spring
4 Handbrake operating lever
5 Dust seal
6 Guide pin bolt
7 Caliper body
8 Bleed screw
9 Pushrod
10 O-ring
11 Adjusting bolt piston
12 Adjusting bolt13 Bearing
14 Spring seat
15 Spring
16 Spring cover
17 Circlip
18 Piston seal
19 Circlip
20 Thrustwasher
21 Spring
22 Adjuster nut
23 Piston
24 Dust seal
25 Pad spring26 Inner pad shim
27 Brake pads
28 Outer pad shim
29 Pad spring
30 Caliper mounting bracket
31 Gaiter
32 Guide pin
33 Handbrake cable
mounting bracket
34 Cam washer
35 Pin
36 Bolt
37 Handbrake mechanism cam 
						

							15Inspect all the caliper components as
described for the front brake caliper and
renew as necessary.
16On reassembly ensure that all
components are absolutely clean and dry.
17Apply a good quality high-temperature
brake grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl
Cuprysil-based) or anti-seize compound (eg
Holts Copaslip) to the handbrake mechanism
cam and refit the cam washer and cam to the
caliper. Fit the dust seal, lever, return spring
and washer and tighten the handbrake lever
retaining nut securely.
18Fit a new O-ring to the adjusting bolt
piston then insert the small pushrod into the
rear of the piston and install the adjusting bolt
piston assembly in the caliper bore. Operate
the handbrake lever and check that the piston
is free to move smoothly then refit the
adjusting bolt, followed by the bearing and
spring seat. Fit the spring, so that its tapered
end is innermost, then install the spring cover.
Secure all the above components in position
with the circlip, ensuring that it is correctly
seated in the groove in the caliper bore.
19Locate the adjusting nut with the cutout
on the inside of the caliper piston and refit the
spring, thrustwasher and circlip. Ensure the
circlip is correctly located in its groove.
20Soak the piston and the new piston (fluid)
seal in clean hydraulic fluid. Smear clean fluid
on the cylinder bore surface.
21Fit the new piston (fluid) seal using only
the fingers to manipulate it into the cylinder
bore groove and refit the piston assembly.
Turn the piston in a clockwise direction, using
the method employed on dismantling, until it
is fully retracted into the caliper bore.
22Fit the dust seal to the caliper ensuring
that it is correctly located in the caliper and
also the groove on the piston.
23Apply the grease supplied in the repair kit,
or a good quality high-temperature brake
grease (silicone- or PBC/Poly Butyl Cuprysil-
based) or anti-seize compound (eg Holts
Copaslip), to the guide pins and fit the new
gaiters. Fit the guide pins to the caliper
mounting bracket, ensuring that the gaiters
are correctly located in the grooves on both
the guide pin and mounting bracket.
Refitting
24Ensure the upper pad spring is still in
position in the caliper then slide the caliper
into position in its mounting bracket. When
fitting the caliper, ensure that the lug on the
rear of the piston side pad is located in the
centre of the caliper piston at the point where
the two piston slots cross. Refit the caliper
guide pin bolts and tighten them to the
specified torque setting.
25Position a new sealing washer on each
side of the hose union and refit the brake hose
union bolt. Ensure that the brake hose union is
correctly positioned between the lugs on the
caliper then tighten the union bolt to the
specified torque setting.
26Remove the brake hose clamp, wherefitted, and bleed the hydraulic system.
Providing the precautions described were
taken to minimise brake fluid loss, it should
only be necessary to bleed the relevant rear
brake.
27Refit the handbrake cable outer to its
mounting bracket and secure it in position
with the retaining clip. Ensure the return
spring is located in the groove in the operating
lever then refit the handbrake cable to lever
clevis pin and secure it in position with the
spring clip.
28Depress the brake pedal several times
until normal (non-assisted) operation returns
then check and, if necessary, adjust the
handbrake cable as described in Chapter 1.
29Refit the shield to the rear of the caliper
and tighten its retaining bolts securely.
30Refit the roadwheel, then lower the
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
roadwheel nuts to the specified torque.
31Check the hydraulic fluid level.
22 Rear brake disc- inspection,
removal and refitting
3
Note:If either rear brake disc requires
renewal, both should be renewed at the same
time to ensure even and consistent braking.
Inspection
1Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate rear roadwheel.
2Inspect the disc as described for the front
brake disc.
Removal
3Undo the two caliper shield retaining bolts
and remove the shield from the rear of the
caliper.
4Undo the two bolts securing the caliper
mounting bracket to the trailing arm assembly
and slide the caliper assembly off the disc.
Using a piece of wire or string, tie the caliper
to the rear suspension coil spring to avoid
placing any strain on the hydraulic brake
hose.
5Use chalk or paint to mark the relationship
of the disc to the hub, then remove the two
screws securing the brake disc to the hub and
remove the disc. If the disc is a tight fit on the
hub, it can be drawn off by screwing two bolts
into the jacking holes provided.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) Ensure that the mating surfaces of the
disc and hub are clean and flat.
b) Align (if applicable) the marks made on
removal.
c) If a new disc has been fitted, use a
suitable solvent to wipe any preservative
coating from the disc before refitting the
caliper.d) Tighten the disc retaining screws, caliper
bracket bolts and roadwheel nuts to their
specified torque wrench settings.
23 Handbrake lever- 
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1With the vehicle parked on level ground,
chock the roadwheels so that the vehicle
cannot move.
2From inside the vehicle, prise out the cover
from the top of the rear centre console section
to gain access to the two retaining screws.
Undo the two screws and remove the rear
console section.
3Remove the handbrake lever rubber gaiter
and disconnect the wiring connector from the
lever warning lamp switch (see illustration).
4Slacken and remove the handbrake cable
adjusting nut from the rear of the lever and
undo the bolts securing the handbrake lever
assembly to the floorpan (see illustration
opposite).
5Lift the handbrake assembly out of position,
noting the spring which is fitted to the lever
adjusting rod.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure. Prior to refitting the handbrake
lever rubber gaiter, adjust the handbrake
cable as described in Chapter 1.
24 Handbrake cables- 
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Firmly chock the front wheels then jack up
the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. The handbrake cable consists of two
sections (right and left-hand), which are linked
to the lever assembly by an equalizer plate.
Each section can be removed individually.
9•16 Braking system
23.3  Handbrake lever switch (A), mounting
bolts (B) and adjusting nut (C)
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							2From inside the vehicle, prise out the cover
from the top of the rear centre console section
to gain access to the two retaining screws.
Undo the two screws and remove the rear
console section.
3Slacken and remove the handbrake cable
adjusting nut from the rear of the lever and
disconnect the equalizer plate, noting the
spring which is fitted to the lever adjusting
rod.
4Undo the two bolts securing the cable outer
retaining plate to the floor pan (see
illustration). Remove the retaining plate then
detach the relevant cable inner from the
equalizer plate and release the cable grommet
from the floorpan.
5On models equipped with ABS, working
from underneath the vehicle, remove the two
brake caliper shield retaining bolts and
remove the shield from the caliper. Extract thespring clip and clevis pin securing the
handbrake cable to the caliper handbrake
lever then remove the clip securing the cable
outer to its mounting bracket and detach the
handbrake cable from the caliper.
6On non-ABS models, remove the relevant
rear brake drum. Remove the trailing shoe
retainer spring and pin, using a pair of pliers to
press in the retainer clip until it can be rotated
through 90º and released. Ease the trailing
shoe out of the lower pivot point to release the
tension of the return spring, then disconnect
the lower return spring from both shoes.
Disconnect the handbrake cable from the
trailing shoe then use a 12 mm spanner to
compress the handbrake cable retaining
tangs and withdraw the cable from the rear of
the backplate (see illustration).
7On all models, release the main silencer
from its three rubber mountings and carefullylower the tailpipe section to gain access to the
heat shield. Undo the three heat shield
retaining bolts and remove the shield from the
vehicle underbody.
8Work along the length of the cable section
and remove all bolts securing the cable outer
to the vehicle underbody and trailing arm.
Once free, withdraw the cable from
underneath the vehicle and, if necessary,
repeat the procedure for the remaining cable
section.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of the removal
sequence noting the following:
a) Lubricate all exposed linkages and cable
pivots with a good quality multi-purpose
grease.
b) Ensure the cable outer grommet is
correctly located in the floorpan and that
all retaining bolts are tightened to the
specified torque.
c) On non-ABS models, relocate the trailing
shoe and refit the brake drum.
d) Prior to refitting the rear centre console
section, adjust the handbrake cable as
described in Chapter 1.
25 Stop lamp switch- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Removal
1Working inside the vehicle, undo the five
screws and remove the right-hand lower facia
panel.
2Disconnect the wiring connector from the
stop lamp switch (see illustration).
3Slacken the stop lamp switch locknut and
unscrew the switch from its mounting bracket.
Refitting and adjustment
4Screw the switch back into position in the
mounting bracket.
5Connect an ohmmeter across the stop
lamp switch terminals and screw the switch in
until an open circuit is present between the
switch terminals. Gently depress the pedal
and check that continuity exists between the
Braking system  9•17
23.4  Handbrake mechanism layout
1 Handbrake cable adjuster
nut
2 Equalizer plate3 Bolts
4 Cable retaining plate
5 Grommet6 Exhaust heatshield
7 Bolts - cable to body
8 Bolts - cable to trailing arm
25.2  Stop lamp switch wiring 
connector (A) and locknut (B)24.6  Using a 12 mm spanner to compress
cable outer retaining tangs24.4  Handbrake cable adjusting nut (A),
equalizer plate (B) and cable outer
retaining plate bolts (C)
9
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							switch terminals as soon as the pedal is
depressed. If necessary, reposition the switch
until it operates as specified.
6Once the stop lamp switch is correctly
adjusted, hold the switch stationary and
tighten the locknut securely.
7Connect the wiring connector to the switch
and refit the lower facia panel.
26 Anti-lock Braking system
(ABS) - component removal
and refitting
3
Modulator block
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative terminal
then undo the screw and remove the
modulator relay cover (see illustration).
2Disconnect the wiring connectors from the
modulator and free the wiring from its
retaining clip on the unit.
3Disconnect the sender unit wiring
connector and unscrew the master cylinder
reservoir filler cap. Place a piece of polythene
over the filler neck and securely refit the cap
(taking care not to damage the sender unit).
This will minimise brake fluid loss during
subsequent operations. As an added
precaution, place absorbent rags beneath the
modulator brake pipe unions.
4Wipe clean the area around the brake pipe
unions then make a note of how the pipes are
arranged for reference when refitting.
Unscrew the union nuts and carefully
withdraw the pipes. Plug or tape over the pipe
ends and valve orifices to minimise the loss ofbrake fluid and to prevent the entry of dirt into
the system. Wash off any spilt fluid
immediately with cold water.
5Undo the earth lead retaining nut and
slacken the modulator block mounting nuts.
Disconnect the earth lead and remove the
modulator assembly from the engine
compartment. Do not attempt to dismantle
the modulator block assembly. Overhaul of
the unit is a complex job and should be
entrusted to a Rover dealer.
Refitting
6Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) Tighten the modulator block mounting
nuts to the specified torque.
b) Refit the brake pipes to their respective
unions and tighten the union nuts to the
specified torque.
c) On completion, bleed the braking system.
Front wheel sensor
Removal
7Chock the rear wheels, firmly apply the
handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle
and support on axle stands. Remove the
appropriate front roadwheel.
8From inside the engine compartment,
disconnect the relevant sensor wiring
connector and displace the sensor wiring
grommet.
9From underneath the vehicle, pull the
sensor wiring lead through the wing valance
then undo the sensor lead bracket retaining
bolts and remove the brackets.
10Slacken and remove the two bolts
securing the sensor unit to the wheel hub then
remove the sensor and lead assembly.
Refitting
11Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) Ensure that the sensor and hub sealing
faces are clean then refit the sensor and
tighten its retaining bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Ensure the sensor wiring is correctly
routed and all bracket retaining bolts are
tightened to the specified torque.
Rear wheel sensor
Removal
12Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the appropriate roadwheel.
13Trace the wiring back from the sensor to
the wiring connector then free the connector
from its retaining clips and disconnect it.
14Undo the sensor lead bracket retaining
bolts and remove the brackets.
15Slacken and remove the bolt securing the
strap to the sensor cover then undo the
sensor cover retaining bolts and remove the
cover.
16Undo the two bolts securing the sensor to
the rear hub assembly and remove it from the
vehicle, along with the shim which is fitted
behind it.
Refitting
17Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) Ensure the sensor and hub sealing faces
are clean, then install the sensor and shim
and tighten the sensor retaining bolts to
the specified torque.
b) Refit the sensor cover, cover strap
retaining bolt and sensor lead brackets,
then tighten all retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
c) Reconnect the sensor lead wiring
connector and refit the connector to its
retaining clip.
Reluctor rings
18The reluctor rings are not available as
separate items. The front rings are available
only as an integral part of the outer constant
velocity joint assembly and the rear rings are
available only as an integral part of the rear
hub.
19The front reluctor rings are situated on the
outer constant velocity joint and the rear
reluctor rings are part of the stub axle
assembly. Examine the rings for signs of
damage such as chipped or missing teeth and
renew as necessary.
Relays
20Both the solenoid relay and return pump
relay are located in the modulator block
assembly. To gain access to them, undo the
relay cover retaining screw and lift off the
cover. Either relay can then be simply pulled
out of position. Refer to Chapter 12 for further
information on relays.
9•18 Braking system
26.1  ABS system components
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 1 Servo unit
2 Master cylinder
3 Solenoid relay
4 Return pump
relay
5 Return pump
6 Solenoid valves
7 Modulator
block
8 Reluctor ring
9 Wheel sensor
10 System warning
lamp