Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 05c Rover Manual

							1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
5C
Chapter 5 Part C
Starting and charging systems
Alternator - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Alternator brush holder and voltage regulator - renewal  . . . . . . . . . 7
Alternator drivebelt - inspection, adjustment and renewal  . . . . . . . . 6
Battery - maintenance  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Battery - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery - testing and charging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Charging system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Starter motor - brush and solenoid renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Starter motor - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Starting system - testing  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
5C•1
Contents
Specifications
System
Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 volt, negative earth
Battery
Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Maintenance-free (sealed for life) lead-acid
Lucas code:
Standard equipment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 063
Cold climates  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 063S
Performance:Cold cranking Reserve capacity
063  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 amps 60 amps
063S  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 amps 70 amps
Alternator
Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas/Magneti Marelli A127-65
Output - @ 14 volts and 6000 rpm  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 amps
Regulated voltage  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 volts maximum
Brush minimum protrusion  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 mm approx.
Voltage regulator  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas 21TR
Starter motor
Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lucas M79
Rating  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.8 kW
Brush minimum length  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 mm approx.
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Alternator
Pulley retaining nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Mounting/pivot/adjusting arm bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Starter motor
Motor-to-gearbox bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Motor support bracket fasteners:
Bracket front half-to-motor nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Bracket front half-to-rear half bolt  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Bracket rear half-to-gearbox bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321 
						

							1 General information and
precautions
General information
The electrical system is of the 12 volt
negative earth type and comprises a 12 volt
battery, alternator with integral voltage
regulator, starter motor and related electrical
accessories, components and wiring. The
battery is charged by an alternator which is
belt-driven. 
The starter motor is of the pre-engaged
type incorporating an integral solenoid. On
starting, the solenoid moves the drive pinion
into engagement with the flywheel ring gear
before the starter motor is energised. Once
the engine has started, a one-way clutch
prevents the motor armature being driven 
by the engine until the pinion disengages 
from the flywheel.
Precautions
It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. In addition to the precautions
given in the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual, take note of the
following points when working on the system.
Always remove rings, watches, etc before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, capacitive
discharge could occur if a component live
terminal is earthed through a metal object.
This could cause a shock or nasty burn.
Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator or any
other having semi-conductor circuitry could
be irreparably damaged.
If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive to positive and negative to
negative. This also applies when connecting a
battery charger.
Always ensure that the battery negative
lead is disconnected when working on the
electrical system.
Do not allow the engine to turn the
alternator when the alternator is not
connected.
Never test for alternator output by ‘flashing’
the output lead to earth.
Never disconnect the battery terminals, or
alternator multi-plug connector, when the
engine is running.
The battery leads and alternator multi-plug
must be disconnected before carrying out any
electric welding on the vehicle.
Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
2 Battery- maintenance
Refer to Chapter 1 and “Weekly Checks”.
3 Battery- 
testing and charging
2
Warning: Specially rapid ‘boost’
charges which are claimed to
restore the power of a battery in
1 to 2 hours are not recommended as they
can cause serious damage to the battery
plates through overheating.
Warning: During battery
electrolyte replenishment, never
add water to sulphuric acid
otherwise it will explode. Always pour the
acid slowly onto the water.
Warning: The battery will be
emitting significant quantities of
highly inflammable hydrogen
gas during charging and for approximately
15 minutes afterwards. Do not allow
sparks or naked flames near the battery or
it may explode.
Testing
1In normal use, the battery should not
require charging from an external source
unless very heavy use is made of electrical
equipment over a series of journeys that are
too short to allow the charging system to keep
pace with demand. Otherwise, a need for
regular recharging points to a fault either in
the battery or in the charging system.
2If the vehicle is laid up for long periods (in
excess of thirty days at a time) the battery will
lose approximately 1% of its charge per week.
This figure is for a disconnected battery. If the
battery is left connected, circuits such as the
clock (where fitted) will drain it at a faster rate.
To prevent this happening, always disconnect
the battery negative lead whenever the vehicle
is to be laid up for a long period. To keep the
battery fully charged, it should be given
regular ‘refresher’ charges every six weeks or
so. This is particularly important on
‘maintenance-free’ batteries, which will suffer
permanent reduction of charge capacity if
allowed to become fully discharged.
3If a discharged battery is suspected, the
simplest test for most owners is as follows.
Leave the battery disconnected for at least two
hours, then measure the (open circuit, or no-load)
voltage using a sensitive voltmeter connected
across the battery terminals. Compare the
reading obtained with the following:
Voltmeter reading Charge condition
0.50 volts Fully discharged - 
battery scrap
12.30 volts 50% charged
12.48 volts 75% charged
12.66 volts or more Fully charged4If frequent topping-up is required and the
battery case is not fractured, then the battery
is being over-charged and the voltage
regulator will have to be checked.
5If the vehicle covers a very small annual
mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific
gravity of the electrolyte every three months
to determine the state of charge of the
battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check
and compare the results with the following
table:
Normal climates Tropics
Discharged1.120 1.080
Half charged1.200 1.160
Fully charged1.280 1.230
6If the battery condition is suspect, first
check the specific gravity of electrolyte in
each cell. A variation of 0.040 or 
more between any cells indicates loss of
electrolyte or deterioration of the internal
plates.
7A further test can be made only by a battery
specialist using a battery heavy discharge
meter. Alternatively, connect a voltmeter
across the battery terminals and operate the
starter motor with the ignition coil HT lead
disconnected from the distributor and
earthed, and with the headlamps, heated rear
window and heater blower switched on. If the
voltmeter reading remains above
approximately 9.5 volts, the battery condition
is satisfactory. If the voltmeter reading drops
below 9.5 volts and the battery has already
been charged, it is proven faulty.
Charging
8In winter when heavy demand is placed on
the battery (starting from cold and using more
electrical equipment), it is a good idea
occasionally to have the battery fully charged
from an external source. The battery’s bench
charge rate depends on its code (see a 
Rover dealer or Lucas agent for details). 
For most owners, the best method will be to
use a trickle-charger overnight, charging 
at a rate of 1.5 amps. Rapid ‘boost’ charges
which are claimed to restore the power of 
the battery in 1 to 2 hours are not
recommended, as they can cause serious
damage to the battery plates through
overheating and may cause a sealed battery
to explode.
9Ideally, the battery should be removed from
the vehicle before charging and moved to a
well-ventilated area. As a minimum
precaution, both battery terminal leads must
be disconnected (negative lead first) before
connecting the charger leads.
10Continue to charge the battery until all
cells are gassing vigorously and no further rise
in specific gravity or increase in no-load
voltage is noted over a four-hour period.
When charging is complete, turn the charger
off before disconnecting the leads from the
battery.
5C•2 Starting and charging systems
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							4 Battery- 
removal and refitting
1
Removal
1First check that all electrical components
are switched off to avoid a spark occurring as
the negative lead is disconnected. If the
radio/cassette unit has a security code, de-
activate the code temporarily and re-activate
it when the battery is re-connected. Refer to
the instructions and code supplied with the
unit.
2Slacken the terminal clamp nut then lift the
clamp and negative (–) lead from the terminal.
This is the terminal to disconnect before
working on any electrical component on the
vehicle. If the terminal is tight, carefully ease it
off by moving it from side to side.
3Raise the plastic cover from the positive (+)
terminal clamp and slacken the clamp nut,
then lift the clamp and lead from the terminal.
4Unscrew the clamp bolt and remove the
clamp from the battery tray (see illustration).
5Lift the battery from the tray, keeping it
upright and taking care not to allow it to
contact your clothing.
6If the battery tray is to be removed, first
release any relevant wiring harness clips from
the tray. Unscrew the six bolts securing the
battery tray in position and remove the tray. If
necessary, undo the two bolts securing the
battery tray mounting bracket to the body and
remove the bracket (see illustrations).
7Clean the battery terminal posts, clamps,
tray and battery casing. If the bodywork is
rusted as a result of battery acid spilling onto
it, clean it thoroughly and re-paint.
8Whenever the battery is removed, check it
for cracks and leakage.
Refitting
9Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the terminal posts and
leads are cleaned before re-connection.
Smear petroleum jelly on the terminals after
reconnecting the leads. Always connect the
positive terminal clamp first and the negative
terminal clamp last.
5 Charging system- testing
2
1 If the ignition warning lamp fails to light
when the ignition is switched on, first check
the alternator wiring connections for security.
If satisfactory, check that the warning lamp
bulb has not blown and is secure in its 
holder. If the lamp still fails to light, check 
the continuity of the warning lamp feed 
wire from the alternator to the bulbholder. 
If all is satisfactory, the alternator is 
at fault and should be renewed or 
taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
2If the ignition warning lamp lights when the
engine is running, stop the engine and check
that the drivebelt is correctly tensioned and
that the alternator connections are secure. If
all is satisfactory, check the alternator
brushes and commutator. If the fault 
persists, the alternator should be renewed or
taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
3If the alternator output is suspect, even
though the warning lamp functions correctly,
the regulated voltage may be checked as
follows.
4Connect a voltmeter across the battery
terminals and start the engine.
5Increase engine speed until the voltmeter
reading remains steady. This should be
approximately 12 to 13 volts and no more
than 14 volts.
6Switch on as many electrical accessories
(eg: the headlamps, heated rear window and
heater blower) as possible and check that the
alternator maintains the regulated voltage at
around 13 to 14 volts.
7If the regulated voltage is not as stated, the
fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush
springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty
diode, a severed phase winding or a worn or
damaged commutator. The brushes and
commutator may be checked but if the fault
persists, the alternator should be renewed or
taken to an auto-electrician for testing and
repair.
6 Alternator drivebelt-
inspection, adjustment and
renewal
Refer to Chapter 1.
7 Alternator brush holder and
voltage regulator- renewal
3
Note:The vast majority of actual alternator
faults are due to the voltage regulator or
brushes being defective. If the renewal of
either assembly does not cure the fault, then
the advice of an expert should be sought. For
most owners, the best course of action will be
to renew the alternator as a complete unit. In
many cases, overhaul will not be viable on
economic grounds alone.
Removal
1While it is physically possible to remove the
voltage regulator and brush holder assembly
with the alternator in place on the vehicle,
owners are advised to remove the alternator
so that it can be serviced in clean working
conditions.
2Unscrew the screws securing the voltage
regulator and brush holder assembly to the
alternator. Lift off the regulator/brush holder,
disconnect the electrical lead and remove the
regulator/brush holder from the alternator
(see illustration).
Starting and charging systems  5C•3
4.6b  Battery tray mounting bracket
retaining bolts (viewed from underneath)4.6a  Battery tray retaining bolts (arrowed)4.4  Battery clamp bolt
7.2  Remove voltage regulator/brush
holder from alternator and disconnect
wiring lead
5C
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							Inspection
3In most cases, the brushes will have wear
limit marks in the form of a groove etched
along one face of each brush. When these
marks are erased by wear, the brushes are
worn out (see illustration). If no marks are
provided, measure the protrusion of each
brush from the brush holder end to the tip of
the brush. No dimension is given by Rover but
as a rough guide, 5.0 mm should be regarded
as a minimum. If either brush is worn to or
below this amount, renew the voltage
regulator and brush holder assembly. If the
brushes are still serviceable, clean them with
a solvent-moistened cloth. Check that the
brush spring pressure is equal for both
brushes and holds the brushes securely
against the slip rings. If in doubt about the
condition of the brushes and springs,
compare them with new components.
4Clean the slip rings with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning or severe pitting. If worn or
damaged, the slip rings should be attended to
by an auto-electrician.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
8 Alternator- 
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and remove the right-hand
front roadwheel.
3From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
Models with air conditioning
4Undo the two bolts and washers securing
the heat shield to the rear of the alternator,then remove the nut securing the heat shield
to the engine and lift the shield out of the
engine compartment.
5Disconnect the wiring connector from the
rear of the alternator.
6Slacken the adjuster pulley retaining nut,
then turn the pulley adjusting bolt until
sufficient drivebelt free play is obtained to be
able to disengage the drivebelt from the
alternator pulley.
7Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the alternator to its mounting bracket
then manoeuvre the alternator out of the
engine compartment.
Models without air conditioning
8Unscrew the three nuts and washers
securing the rear cover to the alternator and
remove the cover. Release the wire retaining
clip and disconnect the alternator wiring
connector (see illustrations).
9Slacken the lower alternator-to-adjusting
arm bolt and the two upper alternator pivot
bolts, then slacken the drivebelt adjusting bolt
until sufficient free play is obtained to
disengage the drivebelt from the alternator
pulley (see illustrations).
10Remove the alternator adjusting arm and
upper pivot bolts and manoeuvre the
alternator out of the engine compartment.
Refitting
11If a new alternator is being fitted, it will be
necessary to remove the pulley and cooling
fan from the old unit. To do this, slacken thepulley retaining nut whilst preventing it from
rotating by using a suitable Allen key to retain
the alternator shaft, or by clamping the pulley
firmly in a vice equipped with soft jaws.
Remove the pulley, cooling fan and fan
washer from the old alternator and, ensuring
that the pulley and shaft mating surfaces are
clean, fit them to the new unit. Tighten the
pulley retaining nut to the specified torque
whilst using the method employed on removal
to retain the pulley.
Models with air conditioning
12Manoeuvre the alternator into position
then refit its mounting bolts and tighten them
to the specified torque.
13Locate the drivebelt on the alternator
pulley then adjust drivebelt tension as
described in Chapter 1.
14Reconnect the wiring connector to the
rear of the alternator then refit the heat shield,
tightening its retaining nut and bolts securely.
Reconnect the battery.
Models without air conditioning
15Manoeuvre the alternator into position
then refit the adjusting arm and pivot bolts
and tighten them lightly.
16Locate the drivebelt on the alternator
pulley and adjust drivebelt tension as
described in Chapter 1.
17Reconnect the wiring connector to the
rear of the alternator then refit the rear cover,
tightening its retaining nuts securely.
Reconnect the battery.
5C•4 Starting and charging systems
8.9b  . . . and lower adjusting arm bolt (A)
then rotate adjuster bolt (B) to slacken
drivebelt tension8.9a  Slacken upper pivot mounting 
bolts . . .
8.8b  . . . and disconnect wiring connector8.8a  Remove cover from rear of 
alternator . . .7.3  Alternator brush wear limit marks
(arrowed)
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							9 Starting system- testing
2
1If the starter motor fails to operate when the
switch is operated, the following may be the
cause:
a) The battery is faulty.
b) The electrical connections between the
ignition switch, solenoid, battery and
starter motor are somewhere failing to
pass the necessary current from the
battery through the starter to earth.
c) The solenoid is faulty.
d) The starter relay is faulty.
e) The starter motor is mechanically or
electrically defective.
2To check the battery, switch on the
headlamps. If they dim after a few seconds
then the battery is discharged. Recharge or
renew the battery. If the lamps glow brightly,
operate the ignition switch and see what
happens to the lamps. If they dim, then you
know that power is reaching the starter motor,
therefore the motor must be removed and
renewed or overhauled to cure the fault. If the
lamps stay bright (and no clicking sound can
be heard from the solenoid), there is a fault in
the circuit or solenoid. If the starter turns
slowly when switched on, but the battery is in
good condition, then either the starter must
be faulty or there is considerable resistance in
the circuit.3If the circuit is suspected, disconnect the
battery terminals (including the earth
connection to the body), the starter/solenoid
wiring and the engine/gearbox unit earth lead,
thoroughly clean their connections and refit
them, then use a meter or test lamp to check
that full battery voltage is available at the
solenoid terminal of the battery positive lead
and that the earth is sound. Smear petroleum
jelly around the battery terminals to prevent
corrosion. Corroded connections are the most
frequent cause of electrical system
malfunctions.
4If the battery and all connections are in
good condition, check the circuit first by
disconnecting the wire from the solenoid
blade terminal. Connect a meter or test lamp
between the wire end and the terminal and
check that the wire is live when the ignition
switch is operated. If it is, then the circuit is
sound. If not, proceed to paragraph 7.
5The solenoid contacts can be checked by
putting a voltmeter or test lamp across the
main cable connection on the starter side of
the solenoid and earth. When the switch is
operated, there should be a reading or 
lighted bulb. If there is no reading or lighted
bulb, the solenoid is faulty and should be
renewed.
6If the circuit and solenoid are proved
sound, the fault must be in the starter motor.
Remove the motor and check its brushes. If
the fault does not lie in the brushes, the motor
windings must be faulty. In this event, themotor must be renewed, unless an auto-
electrical specialist can be found who will
overhaul the unit at a cost significantly less
than that of a new or exchange starter motor.
7If the circuit is thought to be faulty, first
check the starter relay which is situated in the
engine compartment fusebox. A simple test is
to temporarily replace it with one of the other
relays from the fusebox, such as the 
cooling fan relay, which is known to be in a
good condition. If this resolves the fault, then
the starter relay is faulty and must be
renewed. If not, check the ignition switch and
wiring.
10 Starter motor- 
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Firmly apply the handbrake then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it on axle
stands. Remove the right-hand front
roadwheel.
3From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove 
the seven bolts securing the front 
undercover panel to the body and remove the
panel.
4Undo the nut and disconnect the battery
cable from the main solenoid terminal.
Carefully disconnect the spade connector
from the solenoid (see illustration).
5Unscrew the two bolts securing the starter
motor support bracket to the gearbox (see
illustration).
6Slacken and remove the three starter motor
mounting bolts, noting the earth strap which is
fitted to the upper bolt, and manoeuvre the
starter motor out from underneath the vehicle
(see illustrations).
Refitting
7Refitting is a reverse of the removal
sequence, tightening all nuts and bolts to their
specified torque settings.
Starting and charging systems  5C•5
10.5  Starter motor support bracket-to-
gearbox bolts
10.6a  Starter motor lower mounting bolts
viewed from underneath10.6c  Removing the starter motor10.6b  Starter motor upper mounting bolt
and earth strap (arrowed) - viewed from
above
10.4  Starter solenoid main terminal nut (A)
and spade connector (B)
5C
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							11 Starter motor- 
brush and solenoid renewal
2
1Remove the starter motor.
Brushes
Removal
2Undo the two nuts securing the support
bracket to the rear of the starter motor and
remove the bracket (see illustration).
3Undo the two screws and remove the small
cover and gasket from the centre of the
starter motor end cover (see illustration).
Prise out the C-clip and withdraw any
thrustwashers fitted to the armature end.
4Noting the alignment marks between theend cover or grommet and the yoke, unscrew
the two through-bolts and withdraw the end
cover (see illustrations).
5Carefully prise off the negative (field coil)
brush retaining caps from the brush holder
assembly then remove the springs and slide
the brushes out of the holder.
6Remove the nut and spring washer
securing the positive brush lead to the
solenoid terminal and slide the brush holder
assembly off the end of the commutator.
Withdraw the plastic insulating plate then
remove the positive brush retaining caps and
springs and remove the positive brushes from
the holder (see illustrations).
Inspection
7In most cases, the brushes will have wear
limit marks in the form of a groove etchedalong one face of each brush. When the
brushes are worn down to these marks, they
are worn out and must be renewed. If no
marks are provided, measure the length of
each brush (see illustration). No dimension is
given by Rover but as a rough guide 3.5 mm
should be regarded as a minimum. If any
brush is worn below this amount, renew the
brushes as a set. If the brushes are still
serviceable, clean them with a solvent-
moistened cloth. Check that the brush spring
pressure is equal for all brushes and holds the
brushes securely against the commutator. If in
doubt about the condition of the brushes and
springs, compare them with new
components.
8Clean the commutator with a solvent-
moistened cloth, then check for signs of
scoring, burning, excessive wear or severe
pitting. If worn or damaged, the commutator
should be attended to by an auto-electrician.
Refitting
9On refitting, slot the positive brushes into
position in the brush holder then refit the
insulating plate, ensuring that the small
threaded brackets are correctly positioned on
the brush holder and locate with the pins 
on the insulating plate.
10Fit the brush holder assembly to the
commutator and slot the negative (field coil)
brushes into position in the brush holder. With
all the brushes in position, fit the brush
springs and secure them in position with the
retaining caps. Check that the brushes are
5C•6 Starting and charging systems
11.7  Measuring starter motor brush length11.6c  . . . and remove positive brush
assembly from motor11.6b  . . . remove brush spring caps and
springs . . .
11.6a  Remove plastic insulating plate . . .11.4b  . . .  then remove through-bolts and
withdraw end cover11.4a  Note alignment marks between yoke
and grommet  . . .
11.3  Remove cover to gain access to
armature C-clip11.2  Undo retaining nuts and remove
support bracket from starter motor
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							free to move in their holders against spring
pressure.
11Refit the starter motor end cover,
engaging it with the grommet, and aligning the
marks noted on removal. Tighten the cover
through-bolts securely.
12Refit any necessary thrustwashers to the
end of the armature and secure them in
position with the C-clip. Refit the gasket and
small cover to the end cover and tighten its
retaining screws securely. Connect the
positive brush lead to the solenoid terminal
and tighten the nut securely.13Refit the support bracket to the motor and
tighten its retaining nuts to the specified
torque.
Solenoid
Removal
14Slacken and remove the nut and spring
washer securing the starter motor (positive
brush) lead to the solenoid and disconnect the
lead from the solenoid terminal (see
illustration).
15Unscrew the two bolts and spring
washers securing the solenoid to the startermotor drive end bracket (see illustration).
16Release the solenoid plunger from the
starter engaging lever, then withdraw the
solenoid, noting the spring which is fitted to
the plunger (see illustration).
Refitting
17Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the solenoid, its
plunger and the motor/solenoid mating
surfaces are clean and lubricate the
plunger/starter engaging lever surfaces with a
smear of grease (Rover recommend Shell
Alvania).
Starting and charging systems  5C•7
11.16  . . . then release solenoid plunger
from lever and remove assembly from
motor11.15  Remove solenoid retaining bolts
(one arrowed) . . .11.14  Unscrew nut and disconnect starter
motor lead from solenoid terminal
5C
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97