Land Rover Rover 214 Repair 1689 03 Rover Manual

							3
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
Air conditioning compressor drivebelt - inspection, adjustment 
and renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Air conditioning refrigerant - level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Air conditioning system components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . 15
Coolant pump - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Cooling system - draining, flushing and filling  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Cooling system - general inspection  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Cooling system electrical switches - testing, removal and refitting  . 9Cooling system hoses - renewal  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Electric cooling fan - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
General information and precautions  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater components - removal and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater controls - removal, refitting and adjustment  . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater ducts and vents - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator and expansion tank - removal, inspection and refitting  . . . 5
Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3•1
Contents
Specifications
System
Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressurised, pump-assisted thermo-syphon with front mounted
radiator and thermostatically-controlled electric cooling fan
Thermostat
Type  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wax
Start to open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 to 80°C
Fully open temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 or 88°C (actual value stamped in unit end)
Full lift height  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.0 mm
Expansion tank
Cap pressure  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.9 to 1.0 bar
Cooling fan
Operating temperature  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 to 92°C
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Cooling system
Fan motor nuts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4
Temperature gauge sender unit  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 11
Thermostat housing cover bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Thermostat housing/dipstick tube-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt . . . 9 7
Coolant rail-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7
Coolant pump-to-timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover bolt  . . . . . . 9 7
Coolant pump-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Heating system
Heater lower mounting nut  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 15
Heater blower motor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7
Air conditioning system
Compressor mounting bolts  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33
Condenser unions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13
Evaporator inlet union (from receiver drier)  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13
Evaporator outlet union  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 24
Receiver drier union  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13
Trinary switch  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced  DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or  professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321 
						

							1 General information and
precautions
General information
The cooling system is of the pressurised,
pump-assisted thermo-syphon type. It
consists of the front-mounted radiator, a
translucent expansion tank mounted on the
right-hand inner wing, a thermostatically-
controlled electric cooling fan mounted on the
rear of the radiator, a thermostat and a
centrifugal coolant pump, as well as the
connecting hoses (see illustration). The
coolant pump is driven by the engine timing
belt.
The system is of the by-pass type, allowing
coolant to circulate around the engine while
the thermostat is closed. With the engine
cold, the thermostat closes off the coolant
feed from the bottom radiator hose. Coolant is
then drawn into the engine via the heater
matrix, inlet manifold and from the top of the
cylinder block. This allows some heat transfer,
by convection, to the radiator through the tophose whilst retaining the majority of heat
within the cylinder block.
The siting of the thermostat in the intake
rather than the outlet side of the system
ensures that the engine warms up quickly by
circulating a small amount of coolant around a
shorter tract. This also prevents temperature
build-up in the cylinder head prior to the
thermostat opening.
When the coolant reaches a predetermined
temperature, the thermostat opens and the
coolant is allowed to flow freely through the
top hose to the radiator. As the coolant
circulates through the radiator, it is cooled by
the inrush of air when the vehicle is in forward
motion. Airflow is supplemented by the action
of the electric cooling fan when necessary.
Upon reaching the bottom of the radiator, the
coolant is now cooled and the cycle is
repeated.
With the engine at normal operating
temperature, the coolant expands and some
of it is displaced into the expansion tank. This
coolant collects in the tank and is returned to
the radiator when the system cools.
The electric cooling fan mounted behind
the radiator is controlled by a thermostaticswitch located in the radiator side tank. 
At a predetermined coolant temperature 
the switch contacts close, thus actuating the
fan.
Precautions
Cooling system
Do not attempt to remove the expansion
tank filler cap or to disturb any part of the
cooling system whilst it or the engine is hot,
as there is a very great risk of scalding. If the
expansion tank filler cap must be removed
before the engine and radiator have fully
cooled down (even though this is not
recommended) the pressure in the cooling
system must first be released. Cover the cap
with a thick layer of cloth, to avoid scalding,
and slowly unscrew the filler cap until a
hissing sound can be heard. When the hissing
has stopped, showing that pressure is
released, slowly unscrew the filler cap until 
it can be removed. If more hissing sounds 
are heard, wait until they have stopped 
before unscrewing the cap completely. At 
all times keep well away from the filler
opening.
Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact
with your skin or painted surfaces of the
vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with
plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying
around, it is fatal if ingested.
If the engine is hot, the electric cooling fan
may start rotating even if the engine is not
running, so be careful to keep hands, hair and
loose clothing well clear when working in the
engine compartment.
Air conditioning system
On models equipped with an air
conditioning system, it is necessary to
observe special precautions whenever dealing
with any part of the system, its associated
components and any items which necessitate
disconnection of the system. If for any reason
the system must be disconnected, entrust this
task to your Rover dealer or a refrigeration
engineer.
Refrigerant must not be allowed to come in
contact with a naked flame, otherwise a
poisonous gas will be created. Do not allow
the fluid to come in contact with the skin or
eyes.
2 Cooling system- draining,
flushing and refilling
Refer to Chapter 1.
3 Cooling system- 
general inspection
Refer to “Weekly Checks”and Chapter 1.
3•2 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
1.0  Cooling system components
1 Radiator
2 Cooling fan and cowling
3 Radiator mounting
rubbers
4 Bottom hose
5 Top hose
6 Coolant pipe - bottom
hose to thermostat
housing
7 Thermostat housing 
cover
8 Gasket9 Thermostat
10 Thermostat housing
11 O-ring
12 Coolant pump
13 Expansion tank
14 Hose - heater matrix and
manifold return
15 Hose - heater matrix and
manifold feed
16 Heater temperature
control valve
17 Coolant filler stem18 Cooling system bleed
screw
19 Engine overheat switch -
where fitted
20 Coolant pipe - expansion
tank to bottom hose
21 Hose - expansion tank
return
22 Sealing ring
23 Cooling fan thermostatic
switch
24 Locking ring
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							4 Cooling system hoses-
renewal
2
1If inspection of the cooling system reveals a
faulty hose, then it must be renewed as
follows.
2First drain the cooling system. If the coolant
is not due for renewal, it may be re-used if
collected in a clean container.
3To disconnect any hose, use a screwdriver
to slacken the clips then move them along the
hose clear of the outlet. Carefully work the
hose off its outlets. Do not attempt to
disconnect any part of the system when still
hot.
4Note that the radiator hose outlets are
fragile. Do not use excessive force when
attempting to remove the hoses. If a hose
proves stubborn, try to release it by rotating it
on its outlets before attempting to work it off.
If all else fails, cut the hose with a sharp knife
then slit it so that it can be peeled off in two
pieces. While expensive, this is preferable to
buying a new radiator.
5When refitting a hose, first slide the clips
onto the hose then work the hose onto its
outlets. If the hose is stiff, use soap as a
lubricant or soften it by first soaking it in
boiling water whilst taking care to prevent
scalding.
6Work each hose end fully onto its outlet,
check that the hose is settled correctly and is
properly routed, then slide each clip along the
hose until it is behind the outlet flared end
before tightening it securely.
7Refill the system with coolant.
8Check carefully for leaks as soon as
possible after disturbing any part of the
cooling system.
5 Radiator and expansion tank
- removal, inspection and
refitting
2
Removal
Radiator
1Drain the cooling system.
2On models equipped with air conditioning,
remove the condenser fan, then undo the two
bolts securing the air conditioning pipes to the
bonnet platform.
3Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
4Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector, then slacken and remove the boltsecuring the earth leads to the bonnet platform.
Disconnect the wiring from the thermostatic
switch(es) which are fitted to the right-hand
side of the radiator (see illustrations).
5Slacken the bottom hose retaining clip and
disconnect the hose from the radiator.
6Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine coolant elbow (see illustrations).
Position the hose clear of the radiator so that
it does not hinder removal.
7Undo the two bolts securing the upper
mounting brackets to the bonnet platform and
remove the brackets from the radiator.
Disengage the radiator from its lower mounting
points and carefully manoeuvre it out of the
engine compartment (see illustrations).
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•3
5.6a  Slacken clips and disconnect top
hose from radiator . . .
5.4b  Disconnecting wiring connector from
radiator switch
5.7a  Undo radiator mounting bolts . . .
5.6b  . . . and engine coolant elbow
5.7c  . . . and manoeuvre radiator out of
engine compartment5.7b  . . . remove mounting brackets . . .
5.4a  Disconnect cooling fan wiring
connector then remove earth lead
retaining bolt (arrowed)
3
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Never work on the cooling
system when it is hot.
Release any pressure from
the system by loosening the
expansion tank cap, having first
covered it with a cloth to avoid any
possibility of scalding.  
						

							Expansion tank
8Slacken and remove the three bolts
securing the expansion tank to the body.
Unscrew the expansion tank cap and tip out
its contents into a suitable container.
9Slacken the retaining clips then disconnect
both the hoses from the expansion tank and
remove the tank from the vehicle.
Inspection
Radiator
10If the radiator was removed because of
clogging (causing overheating) then try
reverse flushing or, in severe cases, use a
radiator cleanser strictly in accordance with
the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure 
that the cleanser is suitable for use in a
copper/brass radiator. Refer to Chapter 1 for
further information
11Use a soft brush and an air line or garden
hose to clear the radiator matrix of leaves,
insects etc.
12Major leaks or extensive damage should
be repaired by a specialist, or the radiator
should be renewed or exchanged for a
reconditioned unit.
13Examine the mounting rubbers for signs
of damage or deterioration and renew if
necessary.
Expansion tank
14Empty any remaining coolant from the
tank and flush it with fresh water to clean it. If
the tank is leaking it must be renewed but it is
worth first attempting a repair using a
proprietary sealant or suitable adhesive.
15The expansion tank cap should be
cleaned and checked whenever it is removed.
Check that its sealing surfaces and threads
are clean and undamaged and that they mate
correctly with those of the expansion tank.
16The cap’s performance can only be
checked by using a cap pressure-tester
(cooling system tester) with a suitableadaptor. On applying pressure, the cap’s
pressure relief valve should hold until the
specified pressure is reached, at which point
the valve should open.
17If there is any doubt about the cap’s
performance, then it must be renewed. Ensure
that the replacement is of the correct type and
rating.
Refitting
Radiator
18Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure whilst noting the following:
a) Ensure that the radiator is seated
correctly and without strain on its
mountings.
b) Ensure that the radiator hoses are
securely held by the retaining clips.
c) Ensure that all wiring connectors are
correctly routed so that they are clear of
the cooling fan and are retained by any
necessary clips or ties.
d) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
Expansion tank
19Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure whilst noting the following:
a) Ensure that all hoses are correctly routed
with no kinks or sharp bends and are
securely held by the retaining clips.
b) Top up the expansion tank as described
in Chapter 1.
6 Thermostat- 
removal, testing and refitting
3
Removal
1Note that access to the thermostat is very
limited. Depending on the tools available, it
may be easier to raise the front of the vehicle
and to work from underneath, ensuring that
the vehicle is securely supported on axle
stands. In most cases, access is better if the
air cleaner and carburettor (or throttle body on
SPi engines) are removed and is best if the
complete inlet manifold is removed. If the inlet
manifold is removed, the thermostat housingcover can be unbolted to remove the
thermostat without disturbing the housing
itself (see illustration). Whichever method is
used, first drain the cooling system.
2On carburettor models equipped with a
catalytic converter, either remove the
thermostatically-operated vacuum switch or
disconnect the vacuum pipes from the switch
so that it can be removed with the thermostat
housing.
3Unbolt the coolant rail from the rear of the
cylinder block/crankcase, then slacken the
clips and disconnect the coolant rail hose and
heater/inlet manifold return hose from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).
4Undo the thermostat housing/dipstick tube-
to-cylinder block/crankcase bolt and remove
the thermostat housing from the cylinder
block/crankcase. Remove the housing O-ring
which must be renewed whenever it is
disturbed (see illustrations).
5Slacken and remove the three thermostat
housing cover bolts and lift off the housing
cover. Discard the gasket and remove the
thermostat.
Testing
6If the thermostat remains in the open
position at room temperature, then it is faulty
and must be renewed.
7To test it fully, suspend the (closed)
thermostat on a length of string in a container
of cold water, with a thermometer beside it.
3•4 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
6.4b  . . . and withdraw thermostat housing
(O-ring arrowed) – inlet manifold removed
for clarity6.4a  . . . unscrew dipstick tube retaining
bolt . . .6.3  Disconnect coolant rail and
heater/inlet manifold hoses (arrowed) . . .
6.1  Thermostat can be removed without
disturbing housing if inlet manifold is first
removed
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97
Minor leaks from the
radiator can be cured using
a suitable sealant with the
radiator in situ.  
						

							Ensure that neither touches the side of the
container (see illustration).
8Heat the water and check the temperature
at which the thermostat begins to open.
Compare this value with that specified.
Continue to heat the water until the
thermostat is fully open. The temperature at
which this should happen is stamped in the
unit’s end (see illustration). Remove the
thermostat and measure the height of the fully
opened valve, then allow the thermostat to
cool down and check that it closes fully.
9If the thermostat does not open and close
as described, if it sticks in either position, or if
it does not open at the specified temperature,
then it must be renewed.
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following (see
illustration):
a) Clean the thermostat housing, housing
cover and cylinder block/crankcase
mating surfaces thoroughly.
b) Always fit a new housing cover gasket
and O-ring. Smear the O-ring with grease
to aid refitting.
c) Tighten all bolts to their specified torque
wrench settings (where given).
d) Ensure the coolant hose clips are
positioned so that they do not foul any
other component, then tighten them
securely.
e) Refit any components removed for
improved access.
f) Refill the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
7 Coolant pump- 
removal and refitting
4
Removal
1Coolant pump failure is usually indicated by
coolant leaking from the gland behind the
pump bearing, or by rough and noisy
operation, usually accompanied by excessive
pump spindle play. If the pump shows any of
these symptoms then it must be renewed as
follows.
2Drain the cooling system.
3Remove the timing belt.
4Noting the location of the pillar bolt(s),
unscrew the five bolts securing the coolant
pump to the cylinder block/crankcase, then
unscrew the single bolt securing the pump to
the timing belt upper left-hand (inner) cover.
5Withdraw the coolant pump and discard its
sealing ring which should be renewed
whenever it is disturbed. Carefully clean the
cylinder block/crankcase mating surface and
the pump socket (see illustration).
Refitting
6On refitting, install the pump using a new
sealing ring and tighten all bolts to the
specified torque wrench settings.
7The remainder of the refitting procedure is
the reverse of removal.
8 Electric cooling fan- 
testing, removal and refitting
2
Note:On models equipped with air
conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is  the cooling fan switch.
Testing
1The cooling fan motor is supplied with
current via the ignition switch, fuse 4 and the
cooling fan relay. The relay is energised by the
radiator-mounted thermostatic switch which
is fed via fuse number 15.2If the fan does not appear to work, first
check that both fuses are in good condition
and have not blown. Run the engine until
normal operating temperature is reached,
then allow it to idle. If the fan does not cut in
within a few minutes, switch off the ignition
and disconnect the two wires from the
thermostatic switch. Bridge these two wires
with a length of spare wire and switch on the
ignition. If the fan now operates, the
thermostatic switch is probably faulty and
must be tested further as described in
Section 9.
3If the fan still fails to operate, check that full
battery voltage is available at the switch’s
light green and grey wire terminal. If not,
check the feed for a blown fuse or other fault
such as a broken wire. If the feed is good,
check the cooling fan relay, see Chapter 12. If
the relay operates correctly, check for
continuity between the fan motor black wire
terminal and a good earth point on the body. If
not, then the earth connection is faulty and
must be remade. The circuit earth connection
is one of those at earth header 1, attached to
the left-hand inner wing panel next to the
battery.
4If the switch and wiring are in good
condition, the fault must be in the motor itself.
This can be checked by disconnecting it from
the wiring loom and connecting a 12 volt
supply directly to it. If the motor does not
work then it must be renewed.
Removal
5Drain the cooling system, then jack up the
front of the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands.
6From underneath the front of the vehicle,
slacken and remove the three bolts securing
the bumper flange to the body. Remove the
seven bolts securing the front undercover
panel to the body and remove the panel.
7Remove the air cleaner metal intake duct
and intake hose.
8Slacken the retaining clips and disconnect
the top hose from both the radiator and
engine. Position the hose clear of the radiator
so that it does not hinder removal.
9Disconnect the radiator cooling fan wiring
connector.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•5
6.10  Thermostat housing and coolant
hoses refitted6.8  Note temperature specification
stamped on thermostat end6.7 Testing the thermostat
7.5  Removing the coolant pump
3
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							10Undo the four nuts securing the cooling
fan cowling to the rear of the radiator and
manoeuvre the fan assembly out of the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
11To dismantle the assembly, first prise off
the fan retaining circlip, then lift the fan off the
motor spindle. Undo the three nuts which
secure the motor assembly to the cowling
then release the motor wiring and connector
and separate the motor and cowling (see
illustration).
Refitting
12Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following:
a) If necessary, reassemble the fan motor,
cowling and fan, then tighten the motor
retaining nuts to the specified torque.
Ensure that the motor wiring is securely
retained by the cowling clips.
b) Ensure that the radiator hose is securely
held by its retaining clips.
c) On completion, refill the cooling system
as described in Chapter 1.
9 Cooling system electrical
switches- testing, removal
and refitting
2
Note:On models equipped with air
conditioning, there are two switches fitted to
the right-hand side of the radiator, the lower of
these is the cooling fan switch.
Testing
Cooling fan thermostatic switch
1Refer to Section 8 for details of a quick test
which should eliminate most faulty switches.
If the switch is to be renewed, or to be tested
thoroughly, it must be removed.
2To carry out a thorough test of the switch,
use two spare wires to connect to it either a
multimeter (set to the resistance function) or a
battery and bulb test circuit. Suspend the
switch in a pan of water which is being
heated. Measure the temperature of the water
with a thermometer. Do not let either the
switch or the thermometer touch the pan itself
(see illustration).3The switch contacts should close to the ON
position (ie: continuity should exist) when the
water reaches the temperature specified.
Stop heating the water and allow it to cool
down. The switch contacts should open.
4If the switch’s performance is significantly
different from that specified, or if it does not
work at all, then it must be renewed.
Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit
5The coolant temperature gauge mounted in
the instrument panel is fed with a stabilised 10
volt supply from the instrument panel feed (via
the ignition switch and fuse 1), its earth being
controlled by the sender unit.
6The sender unit is screwed into the coolant
outlet elbow mounted on the left-hand end of
the cylinder head, underneath the distributor
(see illustration). It contains a thermistor,
which is an element whose electrical
resistance decreases at a predetermined rate
as its temperature rises. Thus, when the
coolant is cold, the sender’s resistance is
high, current flow through the gauge is
reduced and the gauge needle points to the 
C (cold) end of the scale. If the unit is faulty it
must be renewed.7If the gauge develops a fault, check first the
other instruments. If they do not work at all,
check the instrument panel feed. If the
readings are erratic, there may be a fault in the
voltage stabiliser which will necessitate the
renewal of the gauge unit or printed circuit. If
the fault is in the temperature gauge alone,
check it as follows.
8If the gauge needle remains at the C end of
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire and
earth it to the cylinder head. If the needle then
deflects when the ignition is switched on, then
the sender unit is proven faulty and must be
renewed. If the needle still does not move,
remove the instrument panel and check the
continuity of the green/blue wire between the
gauge and the sender unit and the feed to 
the gauge unit. If continuity is shown and the
fault still exists, then the gauge is faulty and
the gauge unit must be renewed.
9If the gauge needle remains at the H end of
the scale, disconnect the sender unit wire. If
the needle then returns to the C end of the
scale when the ignition is switched on, then
the sender unit is proven faulty and must be
renewed. If the needle still does not move,
check the remainder of the circuit as
described above.
Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines
10The switch screwed into the underside of
the inlet manifold on carburettor engines
3•6 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
9.6  Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit9.2  Testing cooling system electrical
switch
8.11  Cooling fan motor retaining nuts
(arrowed)8.10b  . . . and remove fan assembly8.10a  Undo cooling fan cowling retaining
nuts (2 arrowed) . . .
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97 
						

							controls the inlet manifold heater circuit (see
illustration).
11The switch contacts should be closed to
the ON position (ie: continuity should exist)
only at temperatures below 50°C. Remove the
switch and test it as described in para-
graphs 2 to 4.
Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters
12This switch is screwed into the thermostat
housing.
13To test the switch, fit two suitable lengths
of hose to the switch and suspend the switch
in a pan of water which is being heated.
Measure the temperature of the water 
with a thermometer. Do not let either the
switch or the thermometer touch the pan
itself.
14Blow down one of the hoses attached to
the switch. The switch should be closed (ie:
passes no air) when the water temperature is
below 70°C. Above 70°C, the switch should
open and air should flow freely through the
hoses. Stop heating the water then allow the
water to cool down and check that the switch
closes at 70°C or just below.
15If the switch performance is significantly
different from that specified, or if it does not
work at all, then it must be renewed.
Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines
16This sensor, which is screwed into the
underside of the inlet manifold (SPi engines),
or located in the coolant pipe adjacent to the
foward top edge of the timing belt cover (MPi
engines), is a thermistor (see paragraph 6)
which is supplied with approximately 5 volts
by the engine management system ECU. The
ECU also controls the sensor’s earth path
and, by measuring the amount of current in
the sensor circuit, determines the engine’s
temperature. This information is used, in
conjunction with other inputs, to control idle
speed, injector opening time duration and
ignition timing.
17If the sensor circuit should fail to provide
adequate information, the ECU’s back-upfacility assumes a value corresponding to
60°C. The sensor itself can be tested only by
having a Rover dealer check the complete
system using the correct diagnostic
equipment. Do not attempt to test the circuit
using any other equipment, or the ECU will be
damaged.
Removal
Cooling fan thermostatic switch
18With the engine and radiator cold, either
drain the cooling system down to the level of
the sender unit, or unscrew the expansion
tank filler cap to release any remaining
pressure and have a suitable plug ready that
can be used to stop the escape of coolant
while the switch is removed.
19Disconnect the battery negative lead.
20Disconnect the wiring connector from the
switch then rotate the locking ring to release
it. Withdraw the switch and sealing ring from
the radiator (see illustration).
Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit
21With the engine and radiator cold, either
drain the cooling system down to the level of
the switch, or unscrew the expansion tank
filler cap to release any remaining pressure
and have a suitable plug ready that can be
used to stop the escape of coolant while the
unit is removed.
22Disconnect the battery negative lead.
23Disconnect the unit’s wiring connector
and unscrew the unit from the coolant outlet
elbow.
Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines
24Refer to Chapter 4.
Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters
25Refer to Chapter 5.
Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines
26Refer to Chapter 4.
Refitting
Cooling fan thermostatic switch
27On refitting, renew the sealing ring if it is
worn or compressed and carefully clean the
radiator seat before pressing in the 
sealing ring and switch (see illustration). 
Refit the locking ring and rotate it to 
tighten it securely. Reconnect the switch 
and battery, then replenish the cooling
system.
Coolant temperature gauge sender
unit
28On refitting, apply a suitable sealant to the
unit threads and tighten it to its specified
torque wrench setting. Reconnect the unit
and battery, then replenish the cooling
system.
Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch - carburettor engines
29Refer to Chapter 4.
Thermostatically-operated vacuum
switch - carburettor engines equipped
with catalytic converters
30Refer to Chapter 5.
Coolant temperature sensor - fuel
injected engines
31Refer to Chapter 4.
10 Heater components-
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Heater unit
1Drain the cooling system.
2Working in the engine compartment,
slacken the hose clips and disconnect the
heater feed and return hoses from the matrix
outlets on the bulkhead. Disconnect the cable
inner from the heater valve and free the cable
outer from its retaining clip. Slacken and
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•7
9.27  Cooling fan switch locking ring (A)
thermostatic switch (B) and sealing 
ring (C)9.20  Remove cooling fan thermostatic
switch and withdraw sealing ring 
(arrowed)9.10  Inlet manifold pre-heater temperature
switch (carburettor engines)
3
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							remove the heater lower mounting nut which
is situated just to the left of the matrix outlets
(see illustrations).
3Working inside the vehicle, remove the
facia.
4Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws and remove the blower motor-to-
heater unit duct (see illustration). On models
equipped with air conditioning, the evaporator
unit is fitted in place of the duct. It may be
possible to gain the necessary clearance
required to disengage the evaporator from the
heater unit by removing the mounting
brackets and nuts. If not, the evaporator must
be removed.
5Undo the screw securing the right-hand
heater duct to the mounting bracket, then
move the duct to the right to disengage it from
the heater unit (see illustrations).6Undo the inertia switch retaining nut and
disengage the switch from the steering
column support bracket.7Release the wiring block connector from
the right-hand end of the steering column
support bracket and undo the fusebox
3•8 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
10.5a  Undo right-hand duct retaining
screw (arrowed) . . .
10.2c  . . . and free heater valve cable from
retaining clip
10.2d  Slacken and remove heater unit
lower mounting nut
10.4  Remove blower motor-to-heater unit
duct
10.2b  Disconnect heater feed and return
hoses . . .
10.2a  Heater unit components
1 Heater case
2 Heater case clip
3 Face level/windscreen
duct
4 Floor level duct
5 Heater matrix
6 Heater matrix cover
7 Cable retaining clip8 Floor level flap operating
lever
9 Clip
10 Floor level flap idler lever
11 Face level flap idler lever
12 Flap operating lever
13 Air mix flap operating lever
14 Air mix flap15 Ambient air flap - centre
console vents
16 Distribution flap -
windscreen
17 Distribution flap - face
level vents
18 Distribution flap - floor
level vents
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							retaining nut. Slacken and remove the five
support bracket retaining bolts and remove
the bracket from the vehicle (see
illustrations).
8Disconnect the air recirculation cable inner
from the flap and free the cable outer from the
blower motor.
9Prise out the stud securing the rear heater
duct sleeve to the bottom of the heater unit,
then slide the sleeve down to disengage it
from the unit (see illustration).
10Disconnect the wiring connectors from
the heater control panel, then remove the two
upper heater unit retaining nuts and carefully
manoeuvre the heater unit out of the vehicle
(see illustrations).
Heater matrix
11Remove the heater unit.
12Undo the screw securing the matrix outlet
pipe bracket to the heater unit and remove the
bracket (see illustration).
13Slacken and remove the two matrix cover
retaining screws, then remove the cover and
withdraw the matrix from the heater unit (see
illustrations).
14If the matrix is leaking, it is best to obtain
a new or reconditioned unit as home repairs
are seldom successful. If it is blocked, it can
sometimes be cleared by reverse flushing
using a garden hose. Use a proprietary
radiator cleaning product if absolutely
necessary.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems  3•9
10.7b  Remove mounting bolts and
manoeuvre steering column mounting
bracket out of position10.7a  Release wiring connector from
steering column support bracket and
remove fusebox nut (arrowed)10.5b  . . . and disengage duct from heater
unit
10.13c  . . . and withdraw matrix from
heater unit10.13b  . . . then remove cover . . .
10.12  Undo retaining screw and remove
matrix outlet pipe bracket10.10b  . . . and remove heater retaining
nuts
10.10a  Disconnect wiring from heater
control panel . . .10.9  Remove retaining stud and disengage
rear heater duct sleeve from heater unit
10.13a  Undo two matrix cover retaining
screws . . .
3
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							Heater blower motor
15Undo the two glovebox retaining screws
then partially withdraw the glovebox until
access can be gained to the glovebox damper
to facia screw. Undo the damper screw and
remove the glovebox and damper (see
illustration).
16Slacken and remove the four glovebox
support rail mounting bolts and remove the
rail (see illustration).
17Slacken and remove the two retaining
screws and remove the blower motor-to-
heater unit duct (see illustration). On models
equipped with air conditioning, the evaporator
unit is fitted in place of the duct. It may be
possible to gain the necessary clearancerequired to disengage the evaporator and
remove the blower motor by removing the
mounting brackets and nuts. If not, the
evaporator must be removed.
18Disconnect the air recirculation cable
inner from the flap and free the cable outer
from the blower motor. Disconnect the two
blower motor wiring connectors (see
illustration).
19Slacken and remove the three blower
motor mounting bolts and manoeuvre the
blower unit out from underneath the facia (see
illustrations).
20To remove the motor from the unit, undo
the four motor cover retaining screws, then
disconnect the breather hose and lift off thecover. Slacken and remove the three motor
retaining bolts and withdraw the motor
assembly from the blower unit. Undo the fan
retaining nut and separate the fan and motor,
noting the seal fitted between the two
components (see illustrations).
Heater blower motor resistor
21Remove the glovebox as described in
paragraphs 15 and 16.
22Disconnect the wiring connector, then
undo the two retaining screws and remove the
resistor from the front of the motor assembly.
Heater valve
23Working in the engine compartment,
disconnect the cable inner from the heater
3•10 Cooling, heating and ventilation systems
10.20c  Undo motor retaining bolts and
withdraw motor from unit10.20b  . . . and disconnect breather hose10.20a  Remove motor cover retaining
screws (arrowed) . . .
10.19b  . . . and remove unit from behind
facia10.19a  Undo three blower motor mounting
bolts (arrowed) . . .10.18  Disconnect motor wiring connec-
tors (A) and air recirculation cable (B)
10.17  . . . then remove blower motor-to-
heater unit duct10.16  Remove glovebox support rail . . .10.15  Glovebox damper retaining screw
(arrowed)
1689 Rover 214 & 414 Updated Version 09/97