Kenmore Power Miser 6 Owners Manual

							11
Position the valve downward and provide tubing so that any
discharge will exit only within 6 inches (153 mm) above, or at
any distance below the structural floor.  Be certain that no contact
is made with any live electrical part.  The discharge opening
must not be blocked or reduced in size under any
circumstances.  Excessive length, over 30 feet (9.14 m), or use
of more than four elbows can cause restriction and reduce the
discharge capacity of the valve.
No valve or other obstruction is to be placed between the relief
valve and the tank.  Do not connect tubing directly to discharge
drain unless a 6 inch air gap is provided.  To prevent bodily
injury, hazard to life, or property damage, the relief valve must
be allowed to discharge water in quantities should
circumstances demand.  If the discharge pipe is not connected
to a drain or other suitable means, the water flow may cause
property damage.
The Discharge Pipe:
• Shall not be smaller in size than the outlet pipe size of the
valve, or have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.
• Shall not be plugged or blocked.
• Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.
• Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both
the temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge
pipe.
• Shall terminate at an adequate drain.
• Shall not have any valve between the relief valve and tank.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually
operated at least once a year.  Caution should be taken to
ensure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the
temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) the
water manually discharged will not cause any bodily injury or
property damage because the water may be extremely hot.If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset
and continues to release water, immediately close the cold
water inlet to the water heater, follow the draining instructions,
and replace the temperature-pressure relief valve with a new
one.
               
FIGURE 10.
Filling the Water Heater
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water.
To prevent damage to the tank and heating element, the tank
must be filled with water. Water must flow from the hot water
faucet before turning “ON” power.
To fill the water heater with water:
1. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to
the right (clockwise). The drain valve is located on the lower
front of the water heater.
2. Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.
NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when
the water heater is in use.
3. To insure complete filling of the tank, allow air to exit by
opening the nearest hot water faucet. Allow water to run until
a constant flow is obtained. This will let air out of the water
heater and the piping.
4. Check all new water piping for leaks. Repair as needed. 
						

							12
Converting the Lower Element
These instructions only cover the conversion of the convertible
element, read this entire manual before attempting to install or
operate the water heater. The water heater is factory set to
operate at 3800 watts. The lower element can be converted to
operate at 5500 watts. Refer to “Facts to Consider About the
Convertible Lower Element” section.
The Upper Element, (if double element model) is a
conventional 3800 watt element which only operates at its rated
wattage on 240 volts. (See rating plate on the water heater.
The lower Element of the water heater can be converted from
operation at 3800 watts to 5500 watts on a 240 volt system.
If after reading these instructions and this manual, if you do not
understand any portion call Sears Service Center.
Before making the conversion to 5500 watts, check the (1)
power supply . . . must be 240 volts, (2) wiring . . . 10 gauge
AWG @ Type TW, 60°C or equivalent, and (3) Circuit breakers
or fusing . . .capable of 30 amp loading. Also, the installation
must conform with this manual, local codes and electric utility
rules. Failure to comply can result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY
INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE.
NOTE: Whether or not the element conversion is made the
model rating plate must be marked. Using a hard point ink
pen, check the appropriate block within the model rating plate,
which is located adjacent to the lower access panel.
             
FIGURE 11.
Necessary element conversion parts are located in a small
bag contained within the electrical junction box on top of the
water heater.
                      
FIGURE 12.
1. Before beginning the conversion turn “OFF” electric power
supply to the water heater.
                         
FIGURE 13.
2. The convertible element is located behind the lower
access panel of the water heater. Remove the two screws
securing the access panel, and remove panel.
                             
FIGURE 14.
3. Remove the insulation cap with handle to expose the
terminal cover.
                                 
FIGURE 15.
4. Lower Element: Lift out the tab as shown to unclip the
terminal cover from the thermostat. The terminal cover can
now be removed from the thermostat. 
						

							13
FIGURE 16.
5. Remove the screws from terminal 2 of the element, and
move the looped end of the wire aside.
                     
FIGURE 17.
6. The buss bar is labeled 5500 W. Place the buss bar over
terminals 2 and 3 with the 5500 W visible. Install the extra
screw provided into terminal 3.
               
FIGURE 18.
7. The wire removed from terminal 2 has a looped end. It
must remain looped and now be placed (as shown) on
top of the buss bar, over the opening of terminal 2, and
secured using the remaining screw.
                                         
FIGURE 19.
8. Tighten terminals 2 and 3 to ensure proper electrical
connection.
Failure to tighten terminal screws can cause a fire which can
result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR PROPERTY
DAMAGE.
9. Replace terminal cover on thermostat making sure that
the locking tabs on the terminal cover are in place.
Make sure the thermostat is flush against the tank, the terminal
cover is in place, and the insulation is replaced. Failure to do
so can result in DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR
PROPERTY DAMAGE.
10. Replace the insulation cap with handle so that it completely
covers the thermostat and element.
                                 
FIGURE 20. 
						

							14
11. Replace the access panel.
                               
FIGURE 21.
12. Complete wiring to the water heater, or if completed, turn
“ON” electric power to the water heater 
after filling the tank
with water.
                     
FIGURE 22.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water.
To prevent damage to the tank and heating element, the tank
must be filled with water. Water must flow from the hot water
faucet before turning “ON” power.
Wiring
You must provide all wiring of the proper size outside of the
water heater. You must obey local codes and electric company
requirements when you install this wiring.
If you are not familiar with electric codes and practices, or if you
have any doubt, even the slightest doubt, in your ability to connect
the wiring to this water heater, obtain the service of a competent
electrician. Contact your Sears salesperson to arrange for a
professional electrician.
WATER HEATERS EQUIPPED FOR ONE VOLTAGE ONLY: This
water heater is equipped for one type voltage only. Check the
rating plate near the bottom access panel for the correct voltage.
DO NOT use this water heater with any voltage other than the
one shown on the model rating plate. Failure to use the correct
voltage can cause problems which can result in DEATH,
SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. If you
have any questions or doubts consult your electric company.
If wiring from your fuse box or circuit breaker box was aluminum
for your old water heater, replace it with copper wire. If you wish
to reuse the existing aluminum wire, have the connection at
the water heater made by a competent electrician. Contact your
Sears salesperson to arrange for a professional electrician.
1. Provide a way to easily shut off the electric power when
working on the water heater. This could be with a circuit
breaker or fuse block in the entrance box or a separate
disconnect switch.
2. Install and connect a circuit directly from the main fuse or
circuit breaker box. This circuit must be the right size and
have its own fuse or circuit breaker. Refer to the chart in the
“Product Specifications” section for the correct size wire and
fuse or circuit breaker.
3. If metal conduit is used for the grounding conductor:
a. The grounding electrode conductor shall be of copper,
aluminum, or copperclad aluminum. The material
shall be of one continuous length without a splice or
joint.
b. Rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, or
electrical metallic tubing may be used for the grounding
means if conduit or tubing is terminated in fittings
approved for grounding.
c. Flexible metal conduit or flexible metallic tubing shall
be permitted for grounding if all the following
conditions are met:
• The length in any ground return path does not exceed
6 feet.
• The circuit conductors contained therein are protected
by overcurrent devices rated at 20 amperes or less.
• The conduit or tubing is terminated in fittings approved
for grounding.
For complete grounding details and all allowable exceptions,
refer to the current edition of the NEC - National Electrical Code
NFPA 70.
4. A standard 1/2 conduit opening has been made in the water
heater junction box for the conduit connection. 
						

							15
5. Wiring Diagrams (see “Wiring Diagrams” section) have been
supplied showing the two most common types of
connections between the water heater and the power supply.
You can easily see which type connection you have by
removing the junction box cover on top of the water heater.
•Two Wire Connection Diagrams: is the most common
requiring you to simply connect red to red, black to
black, and the ground wire to the green ground screw
in the junction box of the water heater.
•Three Wire Connection Diagram: is used when you
are connecting the water heater to a power supply
that has a “Time Clock” or “Off Peak” meter. To make
these connections refer to block 1 or 2 in this wiring
diagram for the type of system you have.
NOTE: If you have purchased a three wire connection water
heater but you are not on a “Time Clock” or “Off Peak” meter
and have a standard two wire connection power supply,
simply follow the connection diagram in block 3 of the three
wire connection diagram.6. Use wire nuts and connect the power supply wiring to the
wires inside the water heater’s junction box.
7. The water heater must be electrically “grounded” by the
installer. A green ground screw has been provided on the
water heater’s junction box. Connect ground wire to this
location.
8. Replace the wiring junction cover using the screw provided.
FIGURE 23. 
						

							16
Wiring Diagrams
FIGURE 25.
STANDARD WIRING FOR 2 WIRE LEAD WATER HEATERS
NON-SIMULTANEOUS OPERATION 240 VOLT DOUBLE ELEMENT
WIRING FOR 3 WIRE LEAD WATER HEATERS NON-SIMULTANEOUS OPERATION 240 VOLT DOUBLE ELEMENT
*NOTE: Some lower Hi-Temp Limit Switches
 may have 4 terminals. Use only the
2 terminals on left.FIGURE 24.
A6
A9 
						

							17
Temperature Regulation
HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to
produce hot water. Water heated to a temperature which will
satisfy clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing
needs can scald and permanently injure you upon contact.
Some people are more likely to be permanently injured by hot
water than others. These include the elderly, children, the infirm,
or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot water
in your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local
code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the
hot water tap, then you must take special precautions. In
addition to using the lowest possible temperature setting that
satisfies your hot water needs, some type of tempering device,
such as a mixing valve, should be used at the hot water taps
used by these people or at the water heater. Mixing valves are
available at plumbing supply or hardware stores. Follow
manufacturers instructions for installation of the valves, Before
changing the factory setting of the thermostat see Temperature
Settings table at right.
Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw
their own bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person
unattended in a bathtub or shower.
Thermostats
The thermostats of this water heater have been factory set at a
position which approximates 120°F (49°C), to reduce the risk
of scald injury.
The upper thermostat is factory set at a position which
approximates 120°F (49°C), and is adjustable if a different
water temperature is desired. Read all warnings in this manual
and on the water heating before proceeding.
FIGURE 26.
The lower thermostat is factory set at a position which
approximates 120°F (49°C), and is adjustable if a different
water temperature is desired. Read all warnings in this manual
and on the water heating before proceeding.
FIGURE 27.
Temperature Settings
NOTE: Water temperature range of 120°—140°F (49°-60°C)
recommended by most dishwasher manufacturers.
Upper and Lower Thermostat Adjustments
(Refer to thermostat illustrations under “Thermostats” section)
 
NOTE: It is not necessary to adjust the upper thermostat.
However, if it is adjusted above the factory set point of 120°F
(49°C), it is recommended that it not be set higher than the
lower thermostat setting.
SERVICE AND ADJUSTMENT 
						

							18
The upper and lower thermostats are adjustable if a different
water temperature is desired. Read all warnings in the
“Temperature-Regulation” section before proceeding.
1. Turn “OFF” the electric power to the water heater at the
junction box.
2. Take off the upper and/or lower access panel, insulation
cap with handle.
3. The slotted adjustment (using a screwdriver) can be turned
clockwise ( 
 ) to increase the temperature setting or
counter clockwise ( 
 ) to decrease the temperature setting.
4. Replace the insulation cap with handle and access panel.
5. Turn “ON” the power supply.
Anode Rod Inspection
The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion. Most
hot water tanks are equipped with an anode rod. The
submerged rod sacrifices itself to protect the tank. Instead of
corroding the tank, water ions attack and eat away the anode
rod. This does not affect the water’s taste or color. The rod
must be maintained to keep the tank in operating condition.
Anode deterioration depends on the water conductivity, not
necessarily water condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod
indicates high water conductivity and should be checked and/
or replaced more often than an anode rod that appears to be
intact. Replacement of a depleted anode rod can extend the
life of your water heater. Inspection should be conducted by
calling Sears Service Center. At  a minimum the anode(s)
should be checked annually after the warranty period.
Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve Operation
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually
operated at least once a year.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually
operated at least once a year. Caution should be taken to ensure
that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the
temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) the
water manually discharged will not cause any property damage
or bodily injury. The water may be extremely hot.
                    
FIGURE 28.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset
and continues to release water, immediately close the cold
water inlet to the water heater, follow the draining instructions,
and replace the temperature-pressure relief valve with a new
one.
Failure to install and maintain a new properly listed temperature-
pressure relief valve will release the manufacturer from any
claim which might result from excessive temperature or
pressure.
If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps
or discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal
expansion. Your water heater may have a check valve installed
in the water line or a water meter with a check valve. Consult
your local Sears Service Center for further information. Do not
plug the temperature-pressure relief valve.
Draining 
						

							19
The water heater should be drained if being shut down during
freezing temperatures. Also, periodic draining and cleaning of
sediment from the tank may be necessary.
1. Before beginning turn “OFF” the electric power supply to the
water heater.
2. CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
3. OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow for
draining.
4. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to an
adequate drain or outdoors.
5. OPEN the water heater drain valve to allow for tank draining.
NOTE: If the water heater is going to be shut down and
drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be left
open with hose connected allowing water to terminate to an
adequate drain.
6. Close the drain valve.
7. Follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions in the
“Installation Instructions” section.
8. Turn “ON” power to the water heater.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water.
To prevent damage to the tank and heating element, the tank
must be filled with water. Water must flow from the hot water
faucet before turning “ON” power.
Thermostat Removal/Replacement
1. Turn “OFF” the electrical power to the water heater at the
junction box.
2. Remove the access panel and the insulation cap with
handle.
3. Lift out the tab as shown below to unclip the terminal cover
from the thermostat. The terminal cover can now be removed
from the thermostat.
      
FIGURE 29.
4. Disconnect wires from the thermostat.
5. Remove the thermostat from behind the thermostat
bracket.
6. Place the new thermostat in the bracket making sure it fits
firmly against the tank.
7. Attach the wires to the new thermostat.
NOTE: Some of the terminals may require straight-in wiring
through an eye-opening. If wires are now looped, recut and
strip wire 3/8” to a straight length and insert.
8. Put plastic terminal cover back in place.
9. Replace the insulation cap with handle to cover the
thermostat.
10. Replace access panel, then turn the electric power on.
Element Cleaning/Replacement
NOTE: These instructions are written for element cleaning and
element replacement for the lower element. If it is necessary to
clean or replace the upper element, then repeat these
instructions.
To remove the element from your tank in order to clean or
replace it. 
						

							20
1. Before beginning turn “OFF” the electric power supply to
the water heater.
                  
FIGURE 30.
2. Turn off the water supply to the water heater at the water
Shut-off valve or water meter.
                     
FIGURE 31.
3. Attach a hose to the water heater drain valve and put the
other end in a floor drain or outdoors. Open the water heater
drain valve. Open a nearby hot water faucet which will relieve
pressure in the water heater and speed draining.
                    
FIGURE 32.
The water passing out of the drain valve may be extremely hot.
To avoid being scalded, make sure all connections are tight
and that the water flow is directed away from any person.4. Remove the two screws securing the access panel, and
remove panel.
                              
FIGURE 33.
5. Remove the insulation cap with handle.
                                   
FIGURE 34.
6. Lift out the tab as shown to unclip the terminal cover from
the thermostat. The terminal cover can now be removed
from the thermostat.
        
FIGURE 35.
7. Disconnect the two wires on the element and unscrew the
old element from the tank.
FIGURE 36.