Kenmore Economizer 6 Owners Manual

							11
Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue, blower assembly and vent system
may occur if air for combustion contains certain chemical vapors.
Spray can propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner
refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and sodium chloride,
waxes, bleach and process chemicals are typical compounds which
are potentially corrosive.
A. ALL AIR FROM INSIDE BUILDINGS: (See Figure 10 and 11)
The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings
communicating directly with an additional room(s) of sufficient volume
so that the combined volume of all spaces meets the criteria for an
unconfined space.  The total input of all gas utilization equipment installed
in the combined space shall be considered in making this determination.
Each opening shall have a minimum free area of one square inch per
1,000 Btu per hour (22 cm
2/kW) of the total input rating of all gas utilization
equipment in the confined space, but not less than 100 square inches
(645 cm
2). One opening shall commence within 12 inches
(31 cm) of the top and one commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) of the
bottom of the enclosures.
FIGURE 11.
B. ALL AIR FROM OUTDOORS: (See Figures 12, 13 and 14)
The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings,
one commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) of the top and one
commencing within 12 inches (31 cm) from the bottom of the enclosure.
The openings shall communicate directly, or by ducts, with the outdoors
or spaces (crawl or attic) that freely communicate with the outdoors.
1. When directly communicating with the outdoors, each opening shall
have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 4,000 Btu per hour
(5.5  cm
2/kW) of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure,
see Figure 12.
FIGURE 12.2. When communicating with the outdoors through vertical ducts, each
opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 4,000
Btu per hour (5.5 cm
2/kW) of  total input rating of all equipment in the
enclosure, see Figure 13.
3. When communicating with the outdoors through horizontal ducts,
each opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per
2,000 Btu per hour (11 cm
2/kW)) of  total input rating of all equipment
in the enclosure, see Figure 14.
 
FIGURE 13.
4. When ducts are used, they shall be of the same cross-sectional
area as the free area of the openings to which they connect.  The
minimum short side dimension of rectangular air ducts shall not be
less than 3 inches (7.6 cm), see Figure 14.
FIGURE 14.
5. Louvers and Grilles: In calculating free area, consideration shall be
given to the blocking effect of louvers, grilles or screens protecting
openings. Screens used shall not be smaller than 1/4 inch
(6.4 mm) mesh.  If the free area through a design of louver or grille
is known, it should be used in calculating the size opening required
to provide the free area specified.  If the design and free area is not
known, it may be assumed that wood louvers will be 20-25 percent
free area and metal louvers and grilles will have 60-75 percent free
area.  Louvers and grilles shall be fixed in the open position or
interlocked with the equipment so that they are opened automatically
during equipment operation.
6. Special Conditions Created by Mechanical Exhausting or Fireplaces:
operation of exhaust fans, ventilation systems, clothes dryers or
fireplaces may create conditions requiring special attention to avoid
unsatisfactory operation of installed gas utilization equipment. 
						

							12
Toxic chemicals, such as those used for boiler treatment shall not be
introduced into this system.
When the system requires water at temperatures higher than required
for domestic water purposes, a tempering valve must be installed.  Please
refer to Figure 15 for suggested piping arrangement.
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line
pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among others,
have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, check valves,
back flow preventers, etc. to control these types of problems.  When
these devices are not equipped with an internal by-pass, and no other
measures are taken, the devices cause the water system to be closed.
As water is heated, it expands (thermal expansion) and closed systems
do not allow for the expansion of heated water.
The water within the water heater tank expands as it is heated and
increases the pressure of the water system.  If the relieving point of the
water heater’s temperature-pressure relief valve is reached, the valve
will relieve the excess pressure.  The temperature-pressure relief
valve is not intended for the constant relief of thermal
expansion. This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected.
It is recommended that any devices installed which could create a closed
system have a by-pass and/or the system have an expansion tank to
relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the water system.
Thermal expansion tanks are available from Sears stores and through
the Sears Service Centers. Contact the local plumbing inspector, water
supplier and/or the Sears Service Center for assistance in controlling
these situations.
NOTE: To protect against untimely corrosion of hot and cold
water fittings, it is strongly recommended that di-electric unions
or couplings be installed on this water heater when connected
to copper pipe.
Figure 16 shows the typical attachment of the water piping to the water
heater.  The water heater is equipped with 3/4 inch NPT water
connections.
NOTE: If using copper tubing, solder tubing to an adapter before
attaching the adapter to the cold water inlet connection.  Do not
solder the cold water supply line directly to the cold water inlet.
It will harm the dip tube and damage the tank.
• Look at the top cover of the water heater. The water outlet is marked
“HOT”. Put two or three turns of teflon tape around the threaded end
of the threaded-to-sweat coupling and around both ends of the 3/4”
NPT threaded nipple. Using flexible connectors, connect the hot water
pipe to the hot water outlet on the water heater.
• Look at the top of the water heater. The cold water inlet is marked
“COLD”. Put two or three turns of teflon tape around the threaded
end of the threaded-to-sweat coupling and around both ends of the
3/4” NPT threaded nipple. Using flexible connectors, connect the cold
water pipe to the cold water inlet of the water heater.
WATER PIPING
HOTTER  WATER  CAN  SCALD:
Water heaters are intended to produce hot water.  Water heated to a
temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish
washing, cleaning and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently
injure you upon contact.  Some people are more likely to be permanently
injured by hot water than others.  These include the elderly, children, the
infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped.  If anyone using hot water in
your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local code or state
law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot water tap, then you
must take special precautions.  In addition to using the lowest possible
temperature setting that satisfies your hot water needs, a means such
as a *mixing valve, shall be used at the hot water taps used by these
people or at the water heater, see Figure 15. Valves for reducing point
of use temperature by mixing cold and hot water are also available:
 
FIGURE 15.
Consult Sears Service Center.  Follow  manufacturer’s instructions for
installation of the valves.  Before changing the factory setting on the
thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in this manual.
This water heater shall not be connected to any heating system or
component or used as a non-potable water heating appliance.
All piping components connected to this unit shall be suitable for use
with potable water. 
						

							13
INSTALLATION COMPLETED USING INSTALLATION KIT
FIGURE 16.
T & P Valve and Pipe Insulation (if supplied)
Remove insulation for T & P valve and pipe connections from carton.
FIGURE 17.
Fit pipe insulation over the incoming cold water line and the hot water
line. Make sure that the insulation is against the top cover of the heater.
Fit T & P valve insulation over valve. Make sure that the insulation does
not interfere with the lever of the T & P valve.
Secure all insulation using tape.
TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
This heater is provided with a properly certified combination
temperature - pressure relief valve by the manufacturer.
The valve is certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory that
maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment of
materials as meeting the requirements for Relief Valves and Automatic
Gas Shut-off Devices for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI Z21.22 • CSA
4.4, and the code requirements of ASME.
If replaced, the valve must meet the requirements of local codes, but not
less than a combination temperature and pressure relief valve certified
as indicated in the above paragraph.
The valve must be marked with a maximum set pressure not to exceed
the marked hydrostatic working pressure of the water heater
 (150 psi = 1,035 kPa) and a discharge capacity not less than the water
heater input rate as shown on the model rating plate.
For safe operation of the water heater, the relief valve must not be
removed from its designated opening nor plugged.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be installed directly into the
fitting of the water heater designed for the relief valve. Position the valve
downward and provide tubing so that any discharge will exit only within
6 inches (15.2 cm) above, or at any distance below the structural floor.
Be certain that no contact is made with any live electrical part.  The
discharge opening must not be blocked or reduced in size under any
circumstances.  Excessive length, over 30 feet (9.14 m), or use of more
than four elbows can cause restriction and reduce the discharge
capacity of the valve, see Figures 16 or 20.
No valve or other obstruction is to be placed between the relief valve
and the tank.  Do not connect tubing directly to discharge drain unless a
6 (15.2 cm) air gap is provided.  To prevent bodily injury, hazard to life,
or property damage, the relief valve must be allowed to discharge water
in quantities should circumstances demand.  If the discharge pipe is not
connected to a drain or other suitable means, the water flow may cause
property damage. 
						

							14
The Discharge Pipe:
• Shall not be smaller in size than the outlet pipe size of the valve, or
have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.
• Shall not be plugged or blocked.
• Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.
• Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both the
temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge pipe.
• Shall terminate at an adequate drain.
• Shall not have any valve between the relief valve and tank.
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at least
once a year.  Caution should be taken to ensure that (1) no one is in front
of or around the outlet of the temperature-pressure relief valve discharge
line, and (2) the water manually discharged will not cause any bodily injury
or property damage because the water may be extremely hot.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and
continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to
the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
GAS PIPING
Make sure the gas supplied is the same type listed on the model rating
plate.  The inlet gas pressure must not exceed 14 inch  water column (3.5
kPa) for natural and propane gas (L.P.).  The minimum inlet gas pressure
shown on the rating plate is that which will permit firing at rated input.
All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the
National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) whichever applies. Copper
and brass tubing and fittings (except tin lined copper tubing) shall not be used.
If the gas control valve is subjected to pressures exceeding 1/2 psi
(3.5 kPa), the damage to the gas control valve could result in a fire or
explosion from leaking gas.If the main gas line Shut-off serving all gas appliances is used, also
turn “off” the gas at each appliance.  Leave all gas appliances shut
“off” until the water heater installation is complete.
A gas line of sufficient size must be run to the water heater.  Consult
the current edition of National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54 and
your gas supplier concerning pipe size.
There must be:
• A readily accessible manual shut off valve in the gas supply line
serving the water heater, and
• A drip leg (sediment trap) ahead of the gas control valve to help
prevent dirt and foreign materials from entering the gas control valve.
• A flexible gas connector or a ground joint union between the shut off
valve and control valve to permit servicing of the unit.
Be sure to check all the gas piping for leaks before lighting the water
heater.  Use a soapy water solution, not a match or open flame.  Rinse
off soapy solution and wipe dry.
Water heaters covered in this manual have been tested and approved
for installation at elevations up to 7,700 feet (2,347 m) above sea level.
When installed at elevations above 7,700 feet (2,347 m), input rating
should be reduced at the rate of 4 percent for each 1,000 feet  (
305 m)
above sea level which requires replacement of the burner orifice in
accordance with National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1/NFPA  54. Contact
your local gas supplier for further information.
Failure to replace the standard orifice with a high altitude orifice when
installed at elevations above 7,700 feet (2,347 m) could result in
improper and inefficient operation of the appliance, producing carbon
monoxide gas in excess of safe limits. This could result in serious
injury or death. Contact your gas supplier for any specific changes
which may be required in your area.
Use pipe joint compound or teflon tape marked as being resistant to the
action of petroleum [Propane (L.P.)] gases. 
						

							15
The appliance and its gas connection must be leak tested before placing
the appliance in operation.
The appliance and its individual Shut-off valve shall be disconnected
from the gas supply piping system during any pressure testing of that
system at test pressures in excess of 1/2 pound per square inch
(3.5 kPa).  It shall be isolated from the gas supply piping system by
closing its individual manual Shut-off valve during any pressure testing
of the gas supply piping system at test pressures equal to or less than
1/2 pound per square inch (3.5 kPa).
Connecting the gas piping to the gas control valve of the water heater can be
accomplished by either of the two methods shown in Figures 18 and 19.
FIGURE 18.  GAS PIPING WITH
FLEXIBLE CONNECTOR.
FIGURE 19.  GAS PIPING WITH ALL
BLACK IRON PIPE TO GAS CONTROL.
SEDIMENT TRAPS
Contaminants in the gas lines may cause improper operation of the gas
control valve that may result in fire or explosion.  Before attaching the
gas line be sure that all gas pipe is clean on the inside.  To trap any dirt
or foreign material in the gas supply line, a drip leg (sometimes called a
sediment trap) must be incorporated in the piping.  The drip leg must be
readily accessible.  Install in accordance with the “Gas Piping” section.
Refer to the current edition of the National Fuel Gas Code,
ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54.
A sediment trap shall be installed as close to the inlet of the water
heater as practical at the time of water heater installation. The sediment
trap shall be either a tee fitting with a capped nipple in the bottom outlet
or other device recognized as an effective sediment trap. If a tee fitting
is used, it shall be installed in conformance with one of the methods of
installation shown in Figures 18 and 19.
FIGURE 20.
FILLING THE WATER HEATER
Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water.  To
prevent damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water.  Water
must flow from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas to the
water heater.
To fill the water heater with water:
1. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to the right
(clockwise). The drain valve is on the lower front of the water heater.
2. Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.
NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when
the water heater is in use.
3. To insure complete filling of the tank, allow air to exit by opening the
nearest hot water faucet.  Allow water to run until a constant flow
is obtained.  This will let air out of the water heater and the piping.
4. Check all water piping and connections for leaks.  Repair as needed.
BLOWER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
SEQUENCE OF INSTALLATION
1. This power vented water heater comes with the blower assembly installed.
2 After the unit is set in place, make sure the blower assembly is still
mounted securely and the air intake screen of the blower assembly
is installed in the dilution air opening.  Also make sure the drain port
of the rubber boot vent adapter is capped off. Lastly, make sure
there is no damage to the blower.
3. Make sure there is no packing material in the discharge of the
blower or the intake of the dilution air restrictor, see Figure 21. 
						

							16
4. Make sure that the plastic tubing is still attached from the air pressure
switch to the port on the blower housing. Make sure the plastic
tubing is not folded anywhere between the pressure switch and
the blower housing.
5. Make sure the ON/OFF switch is in the OFF position and that the
outer harness is connected from the blower control box to the
connector on the bottom side of the gas valve.
6. If the outer harness is not factory installed, make sure the ON/OFF switch
is in the OFF position and then connect the harness from the blower
control box to the connector on the bottom side of the gas valve.7. Do not plug in power cord until vent system is completely installed.
This power vent heater operates on 110-120 Vac, therefore a
grounded outlet must be within reach of the six (6) foot (1.8 m)
flexible power cord supplied with the unit (see Figure 1). The power
cord supplied may be used only where local codes permit. If local
codes do not permit the use of a flexible power supply cord:
a.) Make sure the unit is unplugged from wall outlet. Remove screws
and open panel on front of control box.
b.) Cut the flexible power cord, leaving enough to be able to make
connections and remove the strain relief fitting from box.
c.) Install suitable conduit fitting in side of enclosure and then follow
(d.) and (e.) below.
d.) Splice field wiring into existing wiring using code authorized method
(wire nuts, etc.).
e.) Be certain that neutral and live connections are not reversed when
making these connections.
f . ) Close panel on the side of control box, make sure that access panel
is secured shut. 
						

							17
VENT CONNECTIONS TO BLOWER ASSEMBLY
Figure 21 shows the optimal placement of the 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 reducer;
however, the vent can be reduced at any point in the vent system as long
as the maximum vent length is not exceeded.
FIGURE 21.
VENTING AND INSTALLATION
Plan the layout of the vent system from the vent termination to the water
heater considering all of the 90° and 45° elbows plus the number of feet
of pipe that would be needed to install the total vent system. The water
heater must be vented to the outdoors as described in these instructions.
DO NOT connect this water heater to an existing vent or chimney. It must
be vented separately from all other appliances. Nonmetallic vent may be
used if it has “Heat Deflection Temperature” (HDT@66 psi) or 455 kPa of
at least 157°F or 69°C. Typical nonmetallic vent materials meeting this
requirement are: PVC (Schedule 40, ASTM D-1785), Coex Cellular Core
(Schedule 40, ASTM F-441), CPVC (Schedule 40, ASTM D-2846), ABS
(Schedule 40, ASTM D-2661). The fittings, other than the supplied Vent
Termination should be equivalent to the following: PVC (Schedule 40,
DWV, ASTM D-2665), CPVC (Schedule 40, DWV, ASTM F-438), ABS
(Schedule 40 DWV, ASTM D-2661).
The cement used should be as recommended by the vent pipe
manufacturer. See the instructions on pages 20 and 21 for the proper
method of cutting and cementing the PVC pipe and fittings.
The unit may be vented horizontally through a wall or vertically through
the roof.  Pipe runs must be adequately supported along both vertical
and horizontal runs as follows:
• For Schedule 40, 2 PVC, ABS, Coex Cellular Core vent pipe: Every
3 feet (0.9 m).
• For Schedule 40, 3 PVC, ABS, Coex Cellular Core vent pipe: Every
3.5 feet (1.1 m).
• For Schedule 40, 4 PVC, ABS, Coex Cellular Core vent pipe: Every
4 feet (1.2 m).
• For Schedule 40, 2 CPVC vent pipe: Every 5 feet (1.5 m).
• For Schedule 40, 3 CPVC vent pipe: Every 6 feet (1.8 m).
• For Schedule 40, 4 CPVC vent pipe: Every 6.5 feet (2.0 m).
It is imperative that the first hanger (or support) be located on the horizontal
run immediately adjacent to the first 90-degree elbow from the vertical
rise. Support method used should isolate the vent pipe from the floor
joists or other structural members to prevent the transmission of noise
and vibration.  Do not support, pin, or otherwise secure the venting
system in a way that restricts the normal thermal expansion and
contraction of the chosen venting material.
If the water heater is being installed as a replacement for an existing
power vented heater in pre-existing venting, a thorough inspection of
the existing venting system must be performed prior to any installation
work.  Verify that the correct material as detailed above has been
used, and that the minimum or maximum vent lengths and terminal
location as detailed in this manual have been met.  Carefully inspect the
entire venting system for any signs of cracks or fractures, particularly
at the joints between elbows and other fittings and the straight runs of
vent pipe.  Check the system for signs of sagging or other stresses in
the joints as a result of misalignment of any components in the system.
If any of these conditions are found, they must be corrected in
accordance with the venting instructions in this manual before
completing the installation and putting the water heater into service.Except where instructed in this manual, the mixing of 2, 3 and 4 vent
pipe is NOT ALLOWED.  If 2 pipe is to be used, then a 2 to 3 bell reducer
is recommended.  Figure 21 shows the recommended location for the
bell reducer.  If the bell reducer is located at the rubber boot on the
blower assembly, then a short section of 3 vent pipe needs to be
installed in the rubber boot for proper connection of the 2 to 3 bell
reducer. That length can be the minimum length required for the connection.
If 4 pipe is to be used, then a 3 to 4 bell reducer is recommended.
Figure 21 shows the recommended location for the bell reducer.  If the
bell reducer is located at the rubber boot on the blower assembly, then
a short section of 3 vent pipe needs to be installed in the rubber boot
for proper connection of the 3 to 4 bell reducer.   That length can be
the minimum length required for the connection.
The water heaters covered by this manual are supplied with a 2 Schedule
40 PVC 22.5° Vent Terminal.  If you decide to vent with 3 or 4 pipe, a
Schedule 40 DWV 45° Vent Terminal must be used.  For your convenience,
we have included a screen for both 3 and 4 Vent Terminals.
The vent piping should be connected to the blower with a rubber
adapter and secured with hose clamps. The adapter and clamps are
provided with the heater.
Even though the flue gas temperature leaving the blower is between
140°F (69°C) and 175°F (79°C), some installations will have water
vapor condense in the vent piping. If this occurs, then adequate means
of draining and disposing of the condensate needs to be made by
 the installer.
CONDENSATION
Condensate formation does not occur in all installations of power vented
water heaters, but should be protected against on installations where it
can form in the venting system. Condensation in the venting system of
power vented water heaters is dependent upon installation conditions
including, but not limited to ambient temperature and humidity of installation
location, ambient temperature and humidity of venting space, vent
discharge and slope, and product usage. In certain conditions, installations
in unconditioned space or having long horizontal or vertical vent runs
may accumulate condensate. In these conditions, the vent pipe should
be sloped downward away from the blower assembly 1/4 (6.4 mm) per
five feet (1.5 m) of pipe but not more than 1 1/2 (3.8 cm) in the total vent
length. If the vent piping is vented level or sloped upwards away from
the blower assembly, then adequate means for draining and disposing
of the condensate needs to be made by the installer (if condensate is
detected). If you have condensate, then a 3/8 drain hose can be connected
to the built-in drain port of the rubber boot on the blower assembly. For
your convenience, the rubber boot is supplied with a removable cap on
the built-in drain port. Prior to operating the water heater, make sure the
removable cap is installed on the drain port (if a drain hose is not needed).
MAXIMUM VENT LENGTHS
40,000 BTU Units:
For 2 Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed
is 40 feet (12.2 m). This does not include the supplied vent termination
for the water heater.  For the 2 venting, one 90° elbow is approximately
equal to 5 feet (1.5 m).  One 45° elbow is approximately equal to 2.5
feet (0.8 m).  It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m) of spacing
be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.
For 3 Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed
is 120 feet (36.6 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied
locally) for the water heater.  For the 3 venting, one 90° elbow is
approximately equal to 5 feet (1.5 m).  One 45° elbow is approximately
equal to 2.5 feet (0.8 m).  It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m)
of spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows.
For 4 Venting, the maximum equivalent feet of pipe allowed
is 160 feet (48.8 m). This does not include the Vent Termination (supplied
locally) for the water heater.  For the 4 venting, one 90° elbow is
approximately equal to 8 feet (2.4 m).  One 45° elbow is approximately
equal to 4 feet (1.2 m).  It is recommended that at least 2 feet (0.6 m) of
spacing be used in between all 45° elbows and all 90°elbows. 
						

							18
VENTING
The vent system must terminate so that proper clearances are
maintained as cited in local codes or the current edition of the NationalFuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54, 7.3.4e and 7.8a,b, as follows:
1. The exit terminals of a mechanical vent system shall be not less
than 7 feet (2.13 m) above grade when located adjacent to public
walkways, see Figure 23.
2. A venting system shall terminate at least 3 feet (91 cm) above any
forced air inlet located within 10 feet (3.1 m), see Figure 23.
3. The venting system shall terminate at least 4 feet (1.2 m) below, 4
feet (1.2 m) horizontally from or, 12 in. (30 cm) above any door,
window or gravity air inlet into any building.
The manufacturer also recommends that the vent termination should
not be installed closer than 3 feet (91 cm) from an inside corner of an
L shaped structure and not be less than 12 in. (30 cm) above grade.
The vent shall terminate a minimum of 12  (30.5 cm) above expected
snowfall level to prevent blockage of vent termination, see Figure 23.
4. In cold climates, it is recommended that vent termination not be mounted
directly above or within 3 feet (91 cm) horizontally from an oil tank vent or
gas meter to avoid potential freeze-up from condensation, see Figure 23.
Plan the vent system layout so that proper clearances are maintained
from plumbing and wiring.Vent pipes serving power vented appliances are classified by building
codes as “vent connectors”.  Required clearances from combustible
materials must be provided in accordance with information in this manual
under FACTS TO CONSIDER ABOUT THE LOCATION and VENT
TERMINAL INSTALLATIONS, and with the National Fuel Gas Code and
local codes.
VENT TERMINAL INSTALLATION
1. After the point of termination has been determined, use the cover
plate as a template to mark the hole for the vent pipe to insert
through the wall. BEWARE OF CONCEALED WIRING AND PIPING
INSIDE  OF WALL.
2. If the Vent Terminal is being installed on the outside of a finished
wall, it may be easier to mark both the inside and outside wall.
Align the holes by drilling a hole through the center of the template
from the inside through to the outside.  The template can now be
positioned on the outside wall using the drilled hole as a centering
point for the template.
3. A)  MASONRY SIDE WALLS
Chisel an opening approximately one half inch larger than the
marked circle.
B)  WOODEN SIDE WALLS
Drill a pilot hole approximately one quarter inch outside of the
marked circle.  This pilot hole is used as a starting point for a
saws-all or sabre saw blade.  Cut around the marked circle staying
approximately  one quarter inch outside of the line.  (This will allow
the vent  pipe to easily slide through the opening.  The resulting
gap will be covered up by  the vent  terminal cover plates.)  Repeat
this step on inside wall if necessary.
4. When the vent piping cannot pass through an outside wall at a
height greater than or equal to 12 above the ground (or above
snow accumulation level), then the installation can be modified as
shown below.
FIGURE 22. 
						

							19
FIGURE 23.
This unit can vent through 2, 3 or 4 nonmetallic pipe and fittings.
The vent pipe installation can be started from either the blower discharge
or the termination wall.  Keep in mind the total vent system (pipe and
elbows) when installing the vent system, see VENTING AND
INSTALLATION AND MAXIMUM VENT LENGTHS, page 17.
 
FIGURE 24.
The vent terminal should be kept as close as possible to the outside
wall, but you need to allow at least 1.5 (3.8 cm) of pipe past the wall,
for the wall flange and vent terminal to mount on the pipe.
Before the vent terminal is installed, caulk (not supplied) around the pipe
on the exterior wall and install the optional wall flange. The flange can be
held to the outside wall by placing some of the caulking on the back of the
flange. The wall flange is supplied for decorative purposes only and is
not a requirement for the vent termination (if not needed by the installer).
VERTICAL VENT THROUGH ROOF
This unit is approved for venting through the roof with the type vent
terminal that is included with the unit.  A proper flashing or “BOOT”
should be used to seal the pipe where it exits the roof.
The total vent system should not exceed that which is specified, see
VENTING AND INSTALLATION, page 17.
All of the pipe should be secured as per the instructions in the instructions
in the VENTING AND INSTALLATION, page 17.
VERTICAL VENT TERMINATION RESTRICTIONS
1. Minimum of twelve 12 (30.5 cm) above the roof or twelve 12
(30.5 cm) above the anticipated snow level.  Provide proper support
for all pipe protruding through the roof.
FIGURE 25.
2. 4 (1.2 m) from or 1 (0.3 m) above any gable, dormer, or other roof
structure with access to interior of building (i.e.-vent, window etc.).
3. 3 (0.9 m) above any forced air inlet located within 10 (3.0 m). 
						

							20
VENT PIPE PREPARATION
1.INITIAL PREPARATION
A. Make sure the solvent cement you are planning to use is
designed for the specific application you are attempting.
B. Know the physical and chemical characteristics and limitations
of the PVC and CPVC piping materials that you are about to use.
C. Know the reputation of your manufacturer and their products.
D. Know your own qualifications or those of your contractor.
The solvent welding technique of joining PVC and CPVC pipe
is a specialized skill just as any other pipe fitting technique.
E. Closely supervise the installation and inspect the finished
job before start-up.
F. Contact the manufacturer, supplier, or competent consulting
agency if you have any questions about the application or
installation of PVC and CPVC pipe.
G. Take the time and effort to do a professional job.  Shortcuts
will only cause you problems and delays in start-up.  By far,
the majority of failures in PVC and CPVC systems are the
result of shortcuts and/or improper joining techniques.
2.SELECTION OF MATERIALS
• Cutting Device - Saw or Pipe Cutter
• Deburring Tool, Knife, File, or Beveling Machine (2 and above)
• Brush - Pure Bristle
• Rag - Cotton (Not Synthetic)
• Primer and Cleaner
• Solvent Cement - PVC for PVC Components and CPVC for    CPVC
Components
• Containers - Metal or Glass to hold Primer and Cement.  Select  the
type of PVC or CPVC materials to be used on the basis of their
application with respect to chemical resistance, pressure rating,
temperature characteristics, etc.
• Insertion Tool - Helpful for larger diameter pipe and fittings 6 inches
(15.2 cm) and above.
PRIMER
It is recommended that Tetrahydrofuran (THF) be used to prepare the
surfaces of pipe and fittings for solvent welding. Do not use water,
rags, gasoline or any other substitutes for cleaning PVC or CPVC
surfaces. A chemical cleaner such as MEK may be used.
CEMENT
The cement should be a bodied cement of approximately 500 to 1600
centipoise viscosity containing 10-20% (by weight) virgin PVC material
solvated with tetrahydrofuran (THF). Small quantities of dimethylformamide (DMF) may be included to act as a retarding agent to extend
curing time. Select the proper cement; Schedule 40 cement should be
used for Schedule 40 pipe. Never use all-purpose cements, commercial
glues and adhesives or ABS cement to join PVC or CPVC pipe and fittings.
APPLICATORS
Select a suitable pure bristle type paint brush. Use a proper width
brush or roller to apply the primer and cement (see chart below).
Speedy application of cement is important due to its fast drying
characteristics.  IMPORTANT NOTE: A dauber type applicator should
only be used on pipe sizes 2 and below. For larger diameter pipe, a
brush or roller must be used.
RECOMMENDED BRUSH* SIZE FOR PRIMER
AND CEMENT APPLICATIONS
Nominal Pipe Size Brush Width
(IPS)(INS.)
2 1-1/2
3 1-1/2 - 2-1/2
*USE ONLY NATURAL BRISTLE
3.MAKING THE JOINT
A. Cutting
Pipe must be squarely cut to allow for the proper interfacing of the
pipe end and the fitting socket bottom. This can be accomplished
with a miter box saw or wheel type cutter. Wheel type cutters are
not generally recommended for larger diameters since they tend to
flare the corner of the pipe end. If this type of cutter is used, the
flare on the end must be completely removed.
NOTE: Power saws should be specifically designed to cut plastic pipe.
STEP A