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Hitachi H 65 Manual

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    							--- 8 --- Instruct the customer to check the amount of oil periodically by holding the tool upright, as illustrated below, and
    observing the oil level in the Oil Gauge.  When the oil level  drops to a point approximately 3 mm (7/64) or less
    from the bottom of the Oil Gauge, remove the Oil Gauge and replenish the oil.
    Fig. 2
    Oil Gauge
    Hold the tool
    upright, and
    check the amount
    of oil.3 mm (7/64)
    Replenish oil when level
    is approx. 3 mm (7/64) or less
    from bottom of Oil Gauge.
    Under average operating conditions, approximately 3 cc of oil will be consumed per hour of operation.  The
    standard accessory oil feeder contains 120 cc of oil; when it is added to the oil tank, the oil tank will be filled with
    approximately 130 cc of oil.  When it becomes necessary to replenish the oil, the customer should be cautioned to
    use Shell Omala Oil #150 without fail.  To ensure that the appropriate oil is used, the customers should be urged
    to purchase and use the optional accessory Hitachi Electric Hammer Oil, Code No. 955009, which is available in
    one liter (0.26 gallon) containers.
    7-4. Impact Performance at Low Temperatures
    When starting the tool early in the morning when the ambient temperature is low or after the tool has not been
    used for a long period of time, oil viscosity may be very high and may cause improper or even complete lack of
    impact function even though the motor functions properly.  In such a case, the customer should be instructed to
    continue no-load operation for approximately 5 minutes to allow the tool to warm up.  The tool should then
    function normally. 
    						
    							--- 9 ---
    8. REFERENCE INFORMATION
    8-1. Structure of the Main Body
    The primary structure of the Model H 65SC is similar with the Model PH-65A, as illustrated. (Fig. 3)
    Fig. 3
    8-2. Stop Lever [Tool Retainer] (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5)
    (1) Clean, then smear the tool shank with
    grease or machine oil. (Fig. 4)
    (2) Rotate the stop lever 180˚ in a
    clockwise direction while pulling it
    toward you. Next, insert the tool shank
    into the hexagonal hole on the front
    cover. (Fig. 4)
    (3) Clamp the tool by turning the stop lever
    by half a turn in the opposite direction.
    (Fig. 5)Fig. 4 Front Cover
    Stop Lever
    Shank Sleeve
    MouthStriker
    L Ring
    Piston Pin
    Final Gear
    Crank ShaftGear Cover Assy
    Counter GearInner Cover
    Switch Handle
    Stator Assy
    Armature Assy Felt Holder (C)
    Assy Housing Assy Connecting Rod
    Piston Cylinder Case
    Front Cover
    2
    1 3 Hold the tool with its flattened
    part directed upward.
    Tool ShankStop Lever
    Fig. 5
    Stop Lever 
    						
    							--- 10 --- 8-3. Movement of the Stop Lever
    After an extended period of use, the operation of the Stop Lever may become difficult due to incursion of concrete
    powder or similar materials into its sliding portion.  In such a case, apply oil into the sliding portion between the
    Stop Lever and fitting portion of the Front Cover.
    8-4. No-load Striking Preventive Mechanism
    This machine is so constructed that when the bit end is lifted off the surface being worked, the striker is caught in
    the mouth to prevent no-load striking; and when the striker comes off the mouth, a phase difference between the
    piston and striker is utilized to reduce the strikers amplitude, thereby preventing the striker from striking the bit as
    a double-preventive measure against no-load striking.  When the striker is prevented from striking the bit, turn the
    switch OFF; then the switch ON again with the bit lightly push the main body on the concrete surface so that the
    equipment starts striking.
    9. REPAIR GUIDE
    9-1. Precautions and Suggestions for Disassembly and Reassembly of the Main Body
    The [Bold] numbers in the descriptions below correspond to the item numbers in the Parts List and exploded
    assembly diagram.
    9-1-1. Disassembly
    [NOTE] If it is difficult to loosen and remove the fixing bolts, use an appropriate heat gun, etc. to heat them to
    approximately 80 ˚C (176 ˚F).
     Disassembly of the Armature Assy [61]
    (1) Loosen the four Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M4 x 12 [70], remove the Cap Covers [65], Cap Rubbers
    [66] and Brush Caps [67], and take out the Carbon Brushes [68].  At this time, be very careful not to lose the
    disassembled parts.
    (2) Loosen the four Nylock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M8 x 35 [22], and remove the Cylinder Case [20].  Next, after
    loosening the Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolt M8 x 16 [35], the Connecting Rod Assy [38] and Crank Washer
    [39] can be disassembled.  Leave the Striker [8] and Piston [11] as they are.
    (3) Loosen the four Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M6 x 25 [101], and take off the Handle and Handle Cover
    Set [88].  Next, loosen the six Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M6 x 45 [47], and disassemble the Gear Cover
    [40] and Counter Gear [52].  Then, by inserting a flat-blade screwdriver or similar tool into one of the air vents
    of the Inner Cover [45] and lifting it upwards, the Inner Cover [45], Armature Assy [61], Crank Shaft [37], and
    related parts can be removed in a single body.
    (4) As illustrated in Fig. 6, support the Inner Cover [45] with an appropriate tubular jig, and push down on the end
    surface of the armature shaft with a hand press to separate the Armature Assy [61] from the Inner Cover [45]. 
    						
    							--- 11 ---Fig. 6
    Press the end surface of the armature
    with a hand press.
    Tubular jig Armature Assy [61] Inner Cover [45]
    Crank Shaft [37]
     Disassembly of the Crank Shaft [37] section
    First, remove the four Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M5 x 16 [33] which fix the Bearing Cover [32].  Then, as
    illustrated in Fig. 7, support the lower surface of the Inner Cover [45] with an appropriate tubular jig, align an
    appropriate steel rod with the end surface of the Crank Shaft [37], and press down on the steel rod with a hand
    press.  The Ball Bearing 6205DDCMPS2L [31], Distance Ring (B) [43], Final Gear [42], two Woodruff Keys 4 x 16
    [36], and Crank Shaft [37] can then be disassembled from the Inner Cover [45].
    Press the end surface of the crank shaft
    by fitting a steel rod with a hand press.
    Ball Bearing [41]
    Final Gear [42]
    Inner Cover [45]
    Crank Shaft [37]
    Tubular Jig
    Fig. 7
     Disassembly of remaining parts from the Inner Cover [45]
    Loosen the three Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M5 x 16 [33], and take out Bearing Cover (A) [48] and the
    Ball Bearing 6203DDCMPS2L [49].
     Disassembly of the Mouth [17] and related parts
    First, remove the six Nylock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M8 x 30 [3], and separate the Front Cover [7] from the
    Cylinder Case [20].  The Shank Sleeve [15], Damper [13], Mouth [17], Mouth Cover [16], Mouth Washer [18],
    and Urethane Ring [19] can then be taken out.
     Removal of the O-Ring [14]
    As the O-Ring [14] is installed in the inner portion of the Shank Sleeve [15], it may be difficult to remove.  As
    illustrated in Fig. 8, pry the O-Ring [14] upward gently with a slender flat-blade screwdriver, being very careful
    not to damage the surface of the O-Ring. 
    						
    							--- 12 ---
     Removal of the Striker [8] and related parts
    Remove the four Nylock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M8 x
    35 [22], and separate the Cylinder Case [20] from the
    Housing Assy [59].  From the Cylinder Case [20],
    take out the Striker [8], Piston [11], and Connecting
    Rod Assy [38] in a single body.  Holding the Striker
    [8] firmly in one hand, grasp the Connecting Rod
    Assy [38] in the other hand and pull it forcefully to
    separate it from the Striker.  Finally, extract the Piston
    Pin [10] from the Piston [11], and separate the Piston
    from the Connecting Rod Assy [38].
    Slender screwdriver
    Fig. 8 O-Ring [14]
    Shank
    Sleeve [15]
     Disassembly of the Stop Lever [1]
    Push Damper (B) [6]
    with two flat-blade screwdrivers.Overlap the end surface of the
    Stop Lever [1] on the flange
    portion of the Front Cover [7]. Stop Lever [1] Lever Spring [5]
    Damper (B) [6]
    Spring
    Case [4]
    3 mm dia. hole
    Steel rod
    (3 mm or less dia.)
    Fig. 9
    Disassembly procedures are illustrated in Fig. 9.  Pull the Stop Lever [1] outward in the direction indicated by the
    arrow, and turn it slightly so that its end surface comes to rest on the flange portion of the Front Cover [7].  Next,
    turn the Spring Case [4] so that the holes of the Spring Case are aligned with the Needle Roller [2].  Then, push
    in Damper (B) [6] with flat-blade screwdrivers to compress the Lever Spring [5].  Finally, while keeping the Lever
    Spring compressed, fit a 3 mm or less dia. steel rod into the hole of the Spring Case [4], and push out the Needle
    Roller [2].  The Stop Lever [1], the Damper (B) [6], and the Lever Spring [5] can then be taken out.
     How to remove the L-Ring [9]
    The L-Ring [9] can be removed by prying it with a flat-blade screwdriver or manually, as shown in the following
    figure. (Fig. 10)
    Fig. 10
    Needle Roller [2] 
    						
    							--- 13 ---
    9-1-2. Reassembly
    Reassembly can be accomplished by following the disassembly procedures in reverse.  However, special
    attention should be given to the following items.
    (1) Reassembly of the Crank Shaft [37] section:
    Press-fit the Ball Bearing 6205DDCMPS2L [31] into the Inner Cover [45], and fasten Bearing Cover [32] onto
    the Inner Cover [45] with the four Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M5 x 16 [33].  Support the inner race of the
    Ball Bearing 6205DDCMPS2L [31] with an appropriate jig, and press-fit the Crank Shaft [37] into the Ball
    Bearing.  Next, insert Distance Ring (B) [43] and two Woodruff Keys 4 x 16 [36] into the Crank Shaft [37], and
    press-fit the Final Gear [42] and the Ball Bearing 6302VVCMPS2L [41] with a hand press.
    (2) Reassembly of the Armature Assy [61]:
    Press-fit the Ball Bearing 6203DDCMPS2L [49] into the Inner Cover [45], and fasten Bearing Cover (A) [48]
    onto the Inner Cover with the three Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolts M5 x 16 [33].
    (3) Reassembly of the Striker [8]: (Two possible methods) (Fig. 11)
    A.  After the Connecting Rod Assy [38] has been
    assembled into the Housing Assy [59], mount
    the Piston [11] and press it into the Striker [8].B.  Mount the Piston [11] onto the Connecting
    Rod Assy [38], and push down on the
    Connecting Rod Assy to press the Piston into
    the Striker [8].
    Push
    Connecting Rod Assy [38]
    Striker [8]
    Piston [11]
    Respiratory holes Striker [8] Housing Assy [59]
    Connecting Rod Assy [38]
    Push
    Piston [11]
    Respiratory holes
    Fig. 11
    Either of the two methods described above requires a pressing force of more than 30 kg.  When a hissing sound
    is heard, the Piston is properly inserted in the Striker.  (The hissing is the sound of the compressed air escaping
    from the Striker when the Piston reaches the respiratory chambers within the Striker.) 
    						
    							--- 14 --- (4) Reassembly of the Oil Felt:
    To replace the Oil Felt [79], follow the procedures described below.
    Fig. 12 Slender-Tipped Rod
    or Steel Wire
    Fig. 13 Oil Felt [79]
    Recess
    Felt Holder (C) Assy [77]Oil Felt [79]
    Protruding amount:
    10 --- 11 mm (0.39 --- 0.43)
    1) As illustrated in Fig. 12, fit the wide end of the Oil Felt [79] into the oiling hole, and push it through with a
    slender-tipped rod or steel wire.
    2)  When approximately 5 mm (0.2) of the Oil Felt [79] has been pushed through into the oil tank, grasp the
    tip with pliers or a similar tool, and pull it into the oil tank so that 10 --- 11 mm (0.39 --- 0.43) remains
    protruding into the crank case chamber side, as illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13.
    3)  As illustrated in Fig. 14, mount the Felt Holder (C) Assy [77] so that its recess is engaged with the
    protrusion on the inside of the oil tank chamber of the housing.
    4)  Assemble the Connecting Rod Assy [38] onto the Crank Shaft [37], rotate the Crank Shaft by hand, and
    confirm that the Oil Felt [79] comes into contact with the Seal Lock Hex. Socket Hd. Bolt M8 x 16 [35]
    which fixes the Connecting Rod Assy [38]. (Fig. 15)
    5)  After mounting the Felt Holder (C) Assy [77], the Oil Felt [79] must be bent toward the Front Cover [7]
    side as illustrated in Fig. 15. 
    						
    							--- 15 ---
    Fig. 14 Oil Felt [79]
    Fig. 15 Recess Protrusion
    Oil Tank ChamberFelt Holder (C) Assy [77]Connecting Rod Assy [38]
    M8 x 16 Hex.
    Bolt [35]
    Housing
    Assy
    Oil Felt [79]Oil Tank Chamber
    (5) How to install Seal Ring (A) [44]:
    To prevent oil from leaking through between the Housing Assy [59] and the Inner Cover [45], Seal Ring (A)
    [44] is installed in the Inner Cover [45] for sealing oil.  When fitting Seal Ring (A) [44] in the ring groove on the
    Inner Cover [45], exercise care not to allow the Seal Ring to twist or project out of the groove.
    (6) How to install the L-Ring [9]:
    When installing the L-Ring [9] on the Piston [11],
    pay attention to the L-Ring direction.  The longer
    flange side should be directed to the front, as shown
    in the figure. (Fig. 16)
    (7) Cover Plate [72]:
    Any gap between the Cover Plate [72] and the Housing Assy [59] may result in oil leakage or failure of
    automatic lubrication.  Do not disassemble the Cover Plate [72] except when absolutely necessary.  When it is
    inevitably necessary to disassemble and reassemble the Cover Plate (as when replacing the Oil Felt [79]), for
    thorough sealing, apply liquid packing (Fuji Oil Sheet No. 600K) to the mounting surface on the Housing Assy
    [59].
    Fig. 16 Front Cover 
    						
    							--- 16 ---
    9-1-3. Screw Locking Agent TB1401
    (1) Prior to reassembly, all M5, M6, Hexagon Socket Hd. Bolts and Machine Screws must be coated with Screw
    Locking Agent ThreeBond TB1401.
    (2) The following parts must be replaced with Hitachi Genuine Parts once they are loosened.
     Front Cover Fixing Bolts: M8 x 30 [3]
     Cylinder Case Fixing Bolts: M8 x 35 [22]
     Fixing Bolt on the Connecting Rod Assy [38]M8 x 16 [35]
    (CAUTION)    If fastening bolts come loose from vibration, it could cause serious damage to the machine.
    Ensure without fail that TB1401 Screw Locking Agent is applied as directed above prior to
    reassembly.
    Before applying the TB1401, carefully clean any grease or other foreign matter from the male
    and female threads with gasoline, thinner or similar cleaning solvents.
    9-1-4. Tightening Torque
    (1) M4 Hexagon Socket Hd. Bolts 4.41       N•m (45     kgf•cm, 39.1      in-Ibs.)
    (2) M5 Hexagon Socket Hd. Bolts 7.84       N
    •m (80     kgf•cm, 69.5       in-Ibs.)
    (3) M6 Hexagon Socket Hd. Bolts 9.80       N
    •m (100     kgf•cm, 86.9       in-Ibs.)
    (4) M8 Hexagon Socket Hd. Bolts 29.4       N
    •m (300     kgf•cm, 260       in-Ibs.)
    (5) D4 Tapping Screw 1.96       N
    •m (20    kgf•cm, 17.4      in-Ibs.)
    [NOTE] If above bolts are tightened more than the designated values, it may cause breakage.  Without fail,
    tighten the Bolts and Screws according to the above specified values.
    9-1-5. Internal Wiring
     Wiring diagram of products with noise suppressor (Fig. 17)
    4.350.49
    +1.96
      0+20
      0+12.4
      0
    +1.96
      0+20
      0+17.4
      0
    +1.96
      0+20
      0+17.4
      0
    +4.3
      0 0.49
    Stator
    Connector
    TubeSwitch
    Brown
    Tube
    Plug
    Blue
    Pillar TerminalNoise
    Suppressor
    Connector
    Stator Armature
    Fig. 17
    5 
    						
    							--- 17 ---
    Stator Wiring diagram of products without noise suppressor (Fig. 18)
    Stator ArmatureTube
    TubeSwitch
    Pillar TerminalBlack
    WhitePlug Tube
    Fig. 18
    9-1-6. Insulation Tests
    On completion of disassembly and repair, measure the insulation resistance and dielectric strength.
    Insulation resistance: 7 MΩ or more with DC 500 V Megohm Tester.
    Dielectric strength: AC 4000 V/1 minute, with no abnormalities 
    •••220 V --- 240 V
    (and 110 V for U.K. products)
    AC 2500 V/1 minute, with no abnormalities 
    •••110 V --- 127 V
    (except U.K. products)
    9-1-7. No-Load Current Value
    After no-load operation for 30 minutes, the no-load current value should be as follows:
    Voltage (V)
    Current (A) (Max.)
    110 115 220 230
    5.9 5.7 3.02.8240
    2.7 
    						
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