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Gammill Creative Studio 6.0 Manual

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    Corners using Border_Corner
    2.  Click on the  Border_Corner icon
          CS prompts for the border boundaries:
    Click Outer border first (UL, UR, LR, LL corners). 
    Click Inner border next (UL, UR, LR, LL corners). 
    The image of the Outer Boundary is blue and the Inner Boundary is red. CS can tell
    if this is an upper or lower border by the distance between the two boundaries. If the
    bottom edges are very close, it is an upper border. Conversely, if the top edges are
    very close, it is a bottom border. 
    3.   Edit the Border Corner settings, choosing the type and orientation that best fits
    the corner pattern. Here are some examples of corner types.         
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    Corner Types :
    * L shaped corners extend past the corner into the border area. 
    * Square corners have the top upright and the bottom upside down.
    * Square oriented corners are rotated in 90 degree increments.
    * Angled corners are angled toward the inside at each of the four corners.
    4.  CS moves the corner pattern into the preview area.  
    Tip:  If you decide you dont like the corner pattern and want to try something else,
    just highlight the new corner pattern, click Pattern to Boundary icon, and CS will
    switch the patterns.
    Steps to follow for placing corners AND top repeats :
    The Corner pattern should be highlighted so the Pattern Details are displayed in the
    Properties box. Most corner patterns need to retain their original shape so Freeze
    aspect ON might be a good idea.
    1.  Highlight the corner pattern first. Press & hold Ctrl key while selecting the border
    pattern. Pattern Details for the border pattern are displayed in the Properties box. 
    						
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    Corners using Border_Corner
      2.  Click on the  Border_Corner icon
       
    CS prompts for the border boundaries: Click Outer border first (UL, UR, LR, LL corners). 
    Click Inner border next (UL, UR, LR, LL corners). 
    3.   Edit the Border Corner settings, choosing the type and orientation that best fits
    the corner pattern.
    4.  CS moves the corner pattern into the preview area.
    5.  When CS knows what the quilt length is, the size of the side patterns can be
    calculated, and patterns placed. Plus, CS knows the proper stitching sequence to
    minimize the number of starts and stops.
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    It is a good idea to write down the actual size of the border patterns across the top
    and along the sides. In this example there is a difference of almost 1/4. If the side
    borders were stitched using the measurements from the top border, the side borders
    could be off by several inches.  
    5.  Click on Start_Quilting   
     and the sewing head will move to the Start of the first
    pattern. CS will prompt for pulling up the bobbin thread and choosing OK when
    ready to quilt. 
    At the end of the quilting sequence, you will be prompted to pull up the bobbin
    thread. It doesnt matter how the bobbin thread is pulled up, secured or trimmed.
    Just be sure to click OK because it completes this process.
    The Border Corner process is repeated at the bottom edge. CS will know from the
    boundaries that it is the bottom edge and will position the corners properly.  
    						
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    Side Borders
    4.4.2 Side Borders
    Border patterns that are large, open or non-symmetrical can usually be done while
    the body of the quilt is being done. A section (or chunk) of both side borders is
    stitched every time the quilt top is rolled.  This is the most expedient method of doing
    the borders and it works well on most quilts,  if the size of the side border patterns is
    accurate . 
     
    Tip: The Border Corner feature calculates the border pattern sizes for you. Just
    be sure to use the size from one of the patterns along the side of the quilt, not
    the top or bottom.   
    Essentially, the top border and corners are done first, the quilt is rolled, and sections
    of the borders are done, using reference boundaries to mark the border areas and to
    help align the new patterns with the previously quilted patterns. 
    It is wise to include some side border pieces even when doing the bottom border. As
    you can see from the picture, not all quilts are square or straight, and positioning
    corners is easier if side border pieces are included.  
         
    Border patterns that are very detailed or contain pattern segments that are
    backtracked (double stitched) might look better if the quilt is reloaded sideways. This
    is a personal preference. Patterns that are very complicated or detailed (cables or
    feathers are good examples) dont hide size variations well, so do the main part of
    the quilt first (including the four corners, top and bottom borders) and turn the quilt. 
    Turning the Quilt
    When it is really important to get the perfect fit, turning the quilt to do the side
    borders makes sense. The four corners and top borders are done when the body of
    the quilt top is being quilted. Be sure to baste the side edges of the borders as you
    roll the quilt. Securing the  border seams with SID
     is often a good idea too because
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    it helps prevent the layers from shifting. 
    When ready to remove the quilt, find the halfway point of the side borders, and mark
    it on both sides with a safety pin. This point will be aligned to the center point of the
    table leaders when it is reloaded. Carefully remove the quilt from the table leaders.
    Rotate the quilt and re-load, attaching just the backing to the leaders. The side
    borders have been moved to the top and bottom edges and can now be measured
    and stitched as a unit. 
    Tip:  Dense background fillers should be stitched last, after the borders have been
    completed.  Any dense quilting in the background around custom quilt designs can
    make the fabric shrink. When this happens next to a border it can cause the border
    fabric to pucker and tucks are likely. A better method is to wait until all the blocks
    and borders have been completed and do the background fillers last.  
    4.4.3 Sashings using Point_To_Point - Pattern
    Sashings are mini-borders with an additional design requirement; they need to
    intersect each other and still look attractive. Placing border patterns (using Repeat
    Pattern feature) in sashing areas is possible but each sashing strip needs to be
    measured and squared up individually. The Point To Point technique using the right
    pattern makes quilting the sashings easy. 
    Feature: Point to Point - Pattern
    Assumptions:   Quilt was measured, a diagram is drawn, the quilt top is loaded
    and stabilized, machine is threaded,  bobbins wound, belts engaged and patterns
    have been added to the project. Block patterns have probably already been stitched
    (and the sashing will be stitched around these blocks). 
    Prep Step #1 - Optional -  Define  Reference boundaries
     to check the P2P
    placement. To do this, click on the Boundary icon and CS prompts for the points that
    define the boundary. Make as many as needed to check the placement. 
    Prep Step #2. Choose a pattern. Select a pattern with the startpoint on the left, the
    endpoint on the right and both points on the same horizontal line.  P2P patterns
    must be designed to stitch from left to right. It is possible to concatonate several P2P
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    Sashings using Point_To_Point - Pattern
    patterns, by chosing one, then holding the control key down while choosing more. 
    Prep Step #3. Change  pattern details
     if needed.  Be aware of the pattern size,
    proportion and any margins. Measure the size of the sashing strips and choose a
    pattern size that fills the space but stays contained in the sashing. Use the Preview
    area to audition the size and placement of the patterns if desired.  
    Prep Step #4. Plan the Point Layout before beginning. Most patterns look the best
    when they maintain their original proportion (Freeze aspect= On), but this means
    you need to have P2P intervals that also allow the pattern to fill the space. Other
    patterns need to have one consistent dimension even if the other varies (Freeze
    Aspect=Off). For example, a pattern being stitched inside a sashing area should
    have one of the dimensions fixed so it doesnt stitch outside of the sashing.  
    Steps to follow :
    1.  Click on the P2P icon  
      
    A dialog box appears with Settings and Buttons: 52 
    						
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    Settings:
    Angle:
    This is the current angle that will be used when Channel Lock is turned on. 
    Flip Angle:
     This is intended to be  used with the channel lock feature. It will either
    replace the current angle, or add to it, depending on the Radiate setting. If
    Radiate is not checked, this angle will replace the current angle, otherwise it adds
    to it.
    Radiate
     - Works with Flip Angle for creating radiating line designs.
    Buttons:  There are 6 buttons shown on the screen, which correspond to the
    6-button keypad on the sewing head. Additional options are accessible using the
    Shift button.
    A  Two Button Selection Sequence
     will display additional options. If using the
    touchscreen, just touch the Shift key, and the additional buttons appear as light blue
    buttons, so touch the blue button you need. If the second (blue) button is not
    pressed in a few seconds, it will revert back to its original purpose. If using the
    keypad on the sewing head, press and hold the upper right button (Shift) while
    pressing the second button. When you release the Shift button, the others will revert
    back to the original purpose.
    Chan Lock 
    - locks the head so it moves along one fixed angle. 
    Shift:
     Will display additional functions (see below).
    OK
     (either button) identifies the points. 
    Stop
     indicates the end of the P2P-pattern sequence.  If more points are clicked after
    pressing Stop, they will be detached from the first segment by a jump stitch. This
    is like turning the needle off, and moving to the next click to resume.
    Additional Functions: 
    Pressing the shift button will display additional functions (light blue buttons). These can be initiated by using a 2-button sequence. 
    Flip Chan Lock
     - Changes the current angle.
    * This is intended to be  used with the channel lock feature. If Radiate is not checked, the Flip angle will replace the current angle. To flip the angle using the
    keypad, press and hold the shift button and press the Flip Chan button. If using
    the touchscreen press the Shift button first, then press the Flip Chan button. To
    flip it back again, repeat the 2-button sequence.
    * If Radiating Lines is checked, CS increases the current angle by the number of degrees shown in Flip Angle. To increase the angle using the keypad, press and
    hold the shift button, and press the Flip Chan button.  If using the touchscreen
    press the Shift button first, then press the Flip Chan button. Repeat this 2-button 
    						
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    Sashings using Point_To_Point - Patternsequence to increase it again. It will go up to 90 degrees and return back to 0
    degrees.  
    Exit
     - To exit P2P mode, press the Shift button and press the Exit button. Using the
    mouse and clicking the X in the upper right corner works too.
    2.  Press OK to define the path. Move the machine head from one point to the next,
    pressing OK on each one. The machine makes a popping sound every time the OK
    button is pressed. This sound confirms that the point has been registered. 
    Tip:  Using the laser light to help identify the P2P points is very helpful but if the
    light is not positioned properly, it can be deceiving. Each click is registering the
    position of the needle, not where the light is shining. 
    3.  Press Shift and Exit to complete the P2P setup process.
    * P2P isn ’t stitched immediately - it shows up on the screen first. 
    Tip:  Each P2P pattern is considered an individual pattern and can be modified if
    needed. Just click on the pattern to select it (pink) and use the resizing handles to
    change it.
    When done,  Save the project
    .   
    4.  Click on Start_Quilting    
      and the sewing head will move to the Start of the
    pattern. CS will prompt for pulling up the bobbin thread. Press OK when ready to
    quilt. 
    At the end of the quilting sequence, you will be prompted to pull up the bobbin
    thread and click OK. It doesnt matter how the bobbin thread is pulled up, secured or
    trimmed. Just be sure to click OK because it completes this process.
    When the patterns are all stitched, the screen will display them with red lines instead
    of black. This is a visual reminder that they are tagged as having been sewn
    already. 
    Quick Reference P2P Pattern
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    4.5 Phase 4 - Backgrounds
    A Pantograph pattern is a very simple form of background quilting. The pattern is
    stitched both across (multiple repeats) and down (multiple rows) the area.  For
    custom quilting, background fillers are frequently used. This is dense quilting around
    an applique or quilted motif. The filler compresses the background allowing the
    applique or motif to be framed and highlighted. 
    CS has two methods for for doing pantographs; 
    *  Edge-to-Edge
     is a simple method for pantographs. CS maintains control during
    most of this process.
    *  Repeat Patterns
     is a different method for pantographs, which allows other design
    options to be performed simultaneously. The quilter maintains control during this
    process.
    CS has two methods for doing background fillers;
    *  Trim
     (inside or outside) uses special boundaries that are excluded from the
    background filler. The pattern will stitch up to  the trim boundary and stop, do a
    Jump stitch over the trim boundary, and resume stitching once past the trim
    boundary.  At every Jump Stitch, there are either tie-off stitches, or the quilter hand
    ties the threads and buries them with a needle. This method might be the best
    choice for quilts that will not get much use/abuse. 
    *  Fill
     (inside or outside) uses standard boundaries to define the space. The
    background patterns are actually modified to stitch up to the boundary, and stitch
    along the edge of the boundary until it can reconnect with the background pattern
    and then resumes stitching. The Fill method produces a stronger stitch line because
    it does not have jump stitches, so it does not start and stop, and does not do tie-off
    stitches. 
    4.5.1 E2E (Edge_To_Edge)Pantographs
    Edge To Edge pantographs are continuous line designs stitched repeatedly across
    the quilt. Many pantographs span the entire quilt but they can also be confined to an
    inside area or even a border. 
    CS has an automated method of working with E2E patterns, which is explained here.
    It allows CS to manage the details automatically. CS will create a new quilt group
    and it restricts the use of certain features. For people who need to control the
    process because they need to use some of the pattern manipulation features of CS,
    there is a second method called E2E Repeat, which is explained in the next section. 
    Feature: Edge to Edge (E2E) Automatic
    Assumptions:  The machine is threaded, bobbins wound, belts engaged and
    patterns have been added to the project. 
    Prep Step #1.)
     Measure the quilt length and width accurately before loading the
    quilt. If you are leaving a margin at the top and bottom, be sure to reduce your total
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