Brother Super Ace 2 Manual
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29 3 BUILT-IN STITCHES Blind Hem Stitching You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showing. Use the Blind Hem Stitch when sewing on non-stretch fabrics, and the Stretch Blind Hem Stitch for stretch fabrics. 1Both threads should be the same color as the fabric. 2Fold back the hem, as shown in Fig. A. Then fold the edge of the fabric as in Fig. B. Leave a 6 mm (15/64 inch) overlap at the edge. 3Set the pattern selection dial to the Blind Hem Stitch or Stretch Blind Hem Stitch, and then set the stitch length. 4Sew on the fold as in Fig. C. 5When the fabric is unfolded you will have a Blind Hem Stitch as shown in Fig. D. 1Right side of fabric 2Wrong side of fabric 310 mm (3/8 inch) 45 mm (3/16 inch) Note ●The Stretch Blind Hem Stitch is useful for stretch fabrics. Shell Tuck Stitching The Shell Tuck Stitch can be used to sew a picot (lace-like) edge on lightweight fabric. 1Set the pattern selection dial to the Shell Tuck Stitch. 2Adjust the thread tension so that it is tighter than normal. 3Place the fabric under the presser foot so that it will be sewn along the bias, with the straight stitches sewn on the seamline and the zigzag stitches sewn slightly over the folded edge. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Blind Hem StitchF-2 (1/64-1/16)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Stretch Blind Hem StitchF-1.5 (1/64-1/16)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Stretch Blind Hem StitchF-1.5 (1/64-1/16)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Shell Tuck StitchF-3 (1/64-1/8)3-5 (1/8-3/16) AB CD 1 2 1 1 12 2 2 4 3 3 XL2600.book Page 29 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
BUILT-IN STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 30 4Sew at a slow speed. Elastic Stitching You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending, sewing elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below. Set the pattern selection dial to the Elastic Stitch. ■Mending 1Set the stitch length dial between “F” and 2.5. 2Place the reinforcement fabric under the area you want to mend. 3Following the line of the tear, sew using the Elastic Stitch as shown. ■Sewing Elastic 1Place the elastic on the fabric. 2As you sew, stretch the elastic in front of and behind the presser foot.■Joining Fabric You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of fabric together and it is very effective when sewing knitted fabrics. If you are using nylon thread, the stitch will not be visible. 1Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric together and center them under the presser foot. 2Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch. Make sure you keep the two fabric edges close together. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Elastic StitchF-2.5 (1/64-3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) XL2600.book Page 30 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
31 3 Double Action Stitching These stitches are used for joining two pieces of fabric, such as when making patchwork. Set the pattern selection dial to the Double Action Stitch, Bridging Stitch, or Rampart Stitch. Patchworking These stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric while leaving a space between their edges. 1Fold over the edges of the two pieces of fabric for the hem and baste the edges to a thin piece of paper leaving a small space between them. 2Set the pattern selection dial to the Smocking Stitch, Fagoting Stitch, or Decorative Stitch. 3Stitch along the edge, pulling both threads slightly when beginning to sew. Use thicker than normal threads for sewing. 4After sewing, remove the basting and the paper. Finish by tying knots on the reverse side at the beginning and the end of the seams. 1First needle drop Overedge Stitching Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Double Action StitchF-3 (1/64-1/8)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Bridging StitchF-3 (1/64-1/8)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Rampart StitchF-3 (1/64-1/8)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Smocking Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-13/64) Fagoting Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-13/64) Decorative Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Elastic Shell Tuck StitchF-3 (1/64-1/8)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Stretch Overlock Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Elastic Overlock Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Arrowhead Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Arrowhead Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Comb Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Comb Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) 1.5 mm 1 XL2600.book Page 31 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
BUILT-IN STITCHES —————————————————————————————————————————————————————— 32 You can use these stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. The Overlock Stitches are also useful for sewing stretch materials while the Arrowhead Stitch is ideal for sewing the edge of a blanket. 1Set the pattern selection dial to an overedge stitch. 2Put the fabric under the presser foot so that the seamline (or arrowhead point) is approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) to the left of the center of the presser foot. This stitch works best with a seam allowance of approximately 5 mm (3/16 inch) as this allows the right (zigzag) side of the stitch to overlock the cut edge of the fabric. 3If the seam allowance is wider than the stitch pattern, trim away any excess fabric after stitching. A finished Elastic Overlock Stitch is shown in the illustration below. Feather Stitching Use the Feather Stitch as a decorative top stitch when embroidering or when hemming blankets, tablecloths, or draperies. 1Set the pattern selection dial to the Feather Stitch. 2Place the fabric right side up and sew 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the edge of the fabric. 3Trim close to the stitching. The stitch will prevent the fabric from unravelling. Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitching This stitch can be used wherever a zigzag stitch would be used to sew heavyweight stretch fabrics. The Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch can also be used as a decorative top stitch. Set the pattern selection dial to the Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Feather Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Triple Zigzag Stretch Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) XL2600.book Page 32 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
33 3 Decorative Stitching These stitches can be used for decorative top stitching and for smocking. Set the pattern selection dial to the Triangle Stitch, Leaf Stitch, etc. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Triangle StitchF-1.5 (1/64-1/16)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Decorative Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Leaf Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Tree Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Legs Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Decorative Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32) 3-5 (1/8-3/16) Fixed 2.5 (3/32) Stretch Overlock Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-13/64) Stretch Overlock Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-13/64) Decorative Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Decorative Hem Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) Decorative Stitch Fixed 2.5 (3/32)3-5 (1/8-3/16) XL2600.book Page 33 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS ———————————————————————————————————————————— 34 SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS Making a Buttonhole Memo ●We recommend that you practice making a buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before you try it on an actual garment. ●When making buttonholes on soft fabrics, place a stabilizer material on the underside of the fabric. 1Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric. 2Attach the buttonhole foot and push the frame back until it stops with the plastic insert at the front of the frame. 3You need to sew the front bar tack first. Line the bar tack mark under the center of the presser foot and match it up to the two lines on the presser foot. 1Front of chalk mark 2Red lines ■Making a Buttonhole ■Securing the Stitching and Cutting the Buttonhole 1To secure the stitching, turn the material 90 degrees counterclockwise and sew straight stitches to the end of the front bar tack of the buttonhole. 2Remove the material from the machine. We recommend that you put pins across both ends of the buttonhole to prevent the stitches from being cut. Pattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)]Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Foot F-1.5 (1/64-1/16)3-5 (1/8 – 3/16)Buttonhole Foot ● If the presser foot is not installed with the correct orientation, the needle may strike the presser foot, which may bend or break the needle and cause injury. (See page 9 for the correct presser foot orientation.) CAUTION Step Sewn section Pattern Step 1 (Front bar tack) 1. Set the pattern selection dial to ‘a’. 2. Lower the presser foot and sew 5 to 6 stitches. 3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left side of the stitches and then raise the needle from the material. Step 2 (Left side) 1. Turn the pattern selection dial to ‘b’. 2. Sew the length of the tailor’s chalk line. 3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left side of the stitch and then raise the needle. Step 3 (Back bar tack) 1. Turn the pattern selection dial to ‘c’ (same position as in step 1). 2. Sew 5 to 6 stitches. 3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the right side of the stitch and then raise the needle from the material. Step 4 (Right side) 1. Set the pattern selection dial to ‘d’. 2. Sew the right side until the needle reaches the stitches sewn in step 1. a b c d 4 XL2600.book Page 34 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
35 4 3Cut an opening in the middle of the buttonhole with the seam ripper tool. Be careful not to cut through any stitches. Adjusting Buttonholes If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not the same, you can make the following adjustments. 1Set the stitch length dial between F and 1.5 and sew the buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric to observe how the material is fed. 2If the right side of the buttonhole is too coarse or fine, adjust the feeding of the material with the stitch length dial. 1Right side 2Shorter 3Longer3 After obtaining a satisfactory feed on the right side, stitch the buttonhole and observe the feeding. 4If the left side is too coarse or fine compared with the right side, adjust the buttonhole fine- adjustment screw as described below. If the left side is too coarse, turn the buttonhole fine-adjustment screw with a large screwdriver in the – direction. If the left side is too fine, turn the buttonhole fine-adjustment screw with a large screwdriver in the + direction. This adjustment ensures both sides of the buttonhole are the same. 1Stitch length dial 2Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw 3Left side 4Buttonhole appearance ●When using the seam ripper to open the buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the path of the ripper. The seam ripper may slip and you may be injured. CAUTION 1 2 3 3 44 1 2 XL2600.book Page 35 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS ———————————————————————————————————————————— 36 Sewing Buttons 1Measure the distance between the buttonholes and set the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch, and set the width you want. 2Remove the power supply plug from the outlet. 3Change the foot to the button sewing foot. 4Place the darning plate on the needle plate. 5Connect the power supply plug into the wall outlet. 6Put a button between the foot and the fabric and make sure that the needle enters the holes without hitting the button. If it hits, see step 1. 7At a slow speed, sew about 10 stitches. 8Remove the material from the machine. Cut the upper and lower threads and tie both threads at the back of the material. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Stitch Width [mm (inch)] FootOther Zigzag StitchF (1/64)AnyButton Sewing FootDarning Plate ●Make sure the needle does not hit the button during sewing. The needle may break and you may be injured. CAUTION XL2600.book Page 36 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
37 5 USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS Zipper Insertion You can use the zipper foot to sew different types of zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side of the needle. When sewing the right side of the zipper, attach the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing the left side of the zipper, attach the shank to the right pin of the zipper foot. 1Zipper foot 2Right pin for sewing the left side of the zipper 3Left pin for sewing the right side of the zipper 1 Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight Stitch. Set the stitch length between 2 (1/16 inch) and 3 (1/8 inch). Set the stitch width at 2.5 (3/32 inch). 2Lower the presser foot lever and fix either the left or right pin of the zipper foot onto the shank. 3Fold the edge of the material 2 cm (3/4 inch) and place the zipper under the folded section. Lower the needle into the notch located either on the left or right side of the zipper foot. 4Sew from the bottom of the zipper toward the top on both sides. The needle should be positioned on the zipper side of the foot for best results. 5To sew the opposite side of the zipper, first turn the machine off and raise the presser foot lever. Release the zipper foot by pressing the button located at the back of the foot, then fit the foot on the other side of the zipper. Continue sewing using the pin on that side of the zipper foot. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Stitch Width [mm (inch)] Foot Straight Stitch2-3 (1/16-1/8)2.5 (center) (3/32)Zipper Foot ● Turn the handwheel by hand to make sure the needle does not hit the zipper foot before you start sewing. Choosing a different stitch will cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, and you may be injured. 12 3 CAUTION ●Make sure the needle does not hit the zipper during sewing. If the needle hits the zipper, the needle may break and you may be injured. CAUTION 5 XL2600.book Page 37 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM
USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS ——————————————————————————————————————————— 38 Gathering 1Set the pattern selection dial to Straight Stitch. 2Loosen the tension of the upper thread so that the lower thread lies on the underside of the material. 3Sew a single row (or many rows) of straight stitches. 4Pull the lower threads to gather the material. Darning 1Remove the power supply plug from the outlet. Put the darning plate on the needle plate. Connect the power supply plug to the wall outlet. 2Set the pattern selection dial to the Straight Stitch. 3Put the section you want to darn under the presser foot together with fabric for reinforcement. 4Lower the presser foot. 5Begin sewing by alternating between gently drawing the work away from you and pulling it toward you. 6Repeat this motion until the darn section is filled with parallel lines of stitching. Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)] Straight Stitch 4 (3/16) Stitch NamePattern Stitch Length [mm (inch)] FootOther Straight StitchAnyZigzag Presser FootDarning Plate XL2600.book Page 38 Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:46 PM