American Water Heater 98 Gallon High Recovery Natural Gas Water Heater G62100T774NOV User Manual

							11
fIGure 9.
Figure	9	shows	 the	typical	 attachment	 of	the	 water	 piping	 to	the	 water	
heater.	 The	water	 heater	 is	equipped	 with	1”	NPT 	threaded	 nipple	 
(75	 gallon	 models)	 or	1.25”	 NPT	threaded	 nipple	(100	gallon	 models)	
water	connections.
note:  If using copper tubing, solder tubing to an adapter before 
attaching the adapter to the cold water inlet connection.   do not 
solder the cold water supply line directly to the cold water inlet.  
It will harm the dip tube and damage the tank.
teMperature-pressure relIef v alve
This	heater	 is	provided	 with	a	properly	 certified	combination 	  
temperature	-	pressure	relief	valve	by	the	manufacturer.
The	 valve	 is	certified	 by	a	nationally	 recognized	 testing	laboratory	
that	 maintains	 periodic	inspection	 of	production	 of	listed	 equipment	 of	
materials	 as	meeting	 the	requirements	 for	Relief	 Valves	 for	Hot	 Water	
Supply	 Systems,	 ANSI	Z21.22	 •	CSA 	4.4,	 and	the	code	 requirements	
of	 ASME.
If	 replaced,	 the	valve	 must	meet	 the	requirements	 of	local	 codes,	 but	
not	 less	 than	 a	combination	 temperature	and	pressure	 relief	valve	
certified	as	indicated	in	the	above	paragraph. The	
valve	 must	be	marked	 with	a	maximum	 set	pressure	 not	to	
exceed	 the	marked	 maximum	 working	pressure	 of	the	 water	 heater 
	 (150	 psi	=	1,035	 kPa)	and	a	discharge	 capacity	not	less	 than	 the	water 	
heater	input	rate	as	shown	on	the	model	rating	plate.
For	 safe	 operation	 of	the	 water	 heater,	 the	relief	 valve	 must	not	be	
removed	from	its	designated	opening	nor	plugged.
The	 temperature-pressure	 relief	valve	 must	be	installed	 directly	into	
the	 fitting	 of	the	 water	 heater	 designed	 for	the	 relief	 valve.		 Position	
the	 valve	 downward	 and	provide	 tubing	so	that	 any	discharge	 will	exit	
only	 within	 6”		(153	 mm)	above, 	or	 at	any	 distance	 below	the	structural 	
floor.		 Be	certain	 that	no	contact	 is	made	 with	any	live	electrical	 part.		
The	 discharge	 opening	must	not	be	blocked	 or	reduced	 in	size	 under	
any	 circumstances.	 	 Excessive	length,	over	30’	(9.14	 m),	or	use	 of	
more	 than	four	elbows	 can	cause	 restriction	 and	reduce	 the	discharge 	
capacity	of	the	valve,	see	Figure	10.
No	 valve	 or	other	 obstruction	 is	to	 be	 placed	 between	 the	relief	 valve	
and	 the	tank.		 Do	not	 connect	 tubing	directly	 to	discharge	 drain	unless 	
a	 6	inch	 air	gap	 is	provided.		 To	prevent	 bodily	injury,	hazard	 to	life,	 or	
property	 damage,	 the	relief	 valve	 must	be	allowed	 to	discharge	 water	
in	 quantities	 should	circumstances	 demand.		If	the	 discharge	 pipe	is	
not	 connected	 to	a	drain	 or	other	 suitable	 means,	the	water	 flow	may	
cause	property	damage.
The	Discharge	Pipe:
•	 Should	 not	be	smaller	 in	size	 than	 the	outlet	 pipe	size	of	the	 valve,	 or	  
	 have	any	reducing	couplings	or	other	restrictions.
•	 Should	not	be	plugged	or	blocked.
•	 Should	be	of	material	listed	for	hot	water	distribution.
•	 Should	 be	installed	 so	as	to	allow	 complete	 drainage	of	both	 the	 
	 temperature-pressure	relief	valve,	and	the	discharge	pipe.
•	 Must	 terminate	 a	maximum	 of	six	 inches	 above	a	floor	 drain	 or	external 	
to	 the	 building.	 In	cold	 climates,	 it	is	 recommended	 that	the	discharge 	
pipe	be	terminated	at	an	adequate	drain	inside	the	building.
•	 Should	not	have	any	valve	between	the	relief	valve	and	tank.
The	 temperature-pressure	 relief	valve	 must	be	manually	 operated	at	
least	 once	 a	year.	 Caution	 should	be	taken	 to	ensure	 that	(1)	no	one	
is	 in	 front	 of	or	 around	 the	outlet	 of	the	 temperature-pressure	 relief	 
valve	 discharge	 line,	and	(2)	the	 water	 manually	 discharged	 will	not	
cause	 any	bodily	 injury	or	property	 damage	because	 the	water	 may	
be	extremely	hot.
If	 after	 manually	 operating	 the	valve,	 it	fails	 to	completely	 reset	and	
continues	 to	release	 water,	immediately	 close	the	cold	 water	 inlet	
to	 the	 water	 heater,	 follow	the	draining	 instructions,	 and	replace	 the	
temperature-pressure	relief	valve	with	a	new	one. 
						

							12
fIGure 10.
fIllInG the water heater
Never	use	this	water	 heater	 unless	 it	is	 completely	 full	of	water.		
To	 prevent	 damage	 to	the	 tank,	 the	tank	 must	 be	filled	 with	water.		
Water	 must	flow	from	 the	hot	water	 faucet	 before	 turning	 “ON”	gas	
to	the	water	heater.
To	fill	the	water	heater	with	water:
1. 		Close	 water	heater	 drain	valve	 by	turning	 handle	to	the	 right 	
(clockwise).	 The	drain	 valve	 is	on	 the	 lower	 front	of	water	 heater.
2.	 Open	 the	cold	 water	 supply	 valve	to	the	 water	 heater. 		  
note: the cold water supply valve must be left open when 
the water heater is in use.
3.		To	 insure	 complete	 filling	of	the	 tank,	 allow	 air	to	exit	 by	opening	
the	 nearest	 hot	water	 faucet.	 Allow	water	 to	run	 until	 a	constant	
flow	 is	obtained.	 This	will	let	air	 out	 of	the	 water	 heater	 and	piping.
4.	 Check	 all	water	 piping	 and	connections	 for	leaks.	 Repair	 as	needed.
ventInG
VENT 	DAMPERS	 -	Any	 vent	 damper,	 whether	it	is	 operated	 thermally	
or	 otherwise	 must	be	removed	 if	its	 use	 inhibits	 proper	drafting	 of	
the	water	heater.
Thermally	 Operated	Vent	Dampers: 	this	 gas-fired	 water	heater	 has	a	
thermal 	efficiency	 at	or	 above 	80%	 which	 may	produce 	a 	relatively	 low	
flue	 gas	temperature. 		Such	 temperatures 	may 	not 	be	 high	 enough	 to	
properly	 open	thermally	 operated	vent	dampers.		 This	would	 cause	
spillage	 of	the	 flue	 gases	 and	may	 cause	 carbon	 monoxide	 poisoning.
Vent	 dampers	 must	bear	evidence	 of	certification	 as	complying	 with	
the	 current	 edition	of	the	 American	 National	Standard	 ANSI	Z21.66 	
CGA 	6.14	 (covering	 electrically 	and	 mechanically 	actuated	 vent	
dampers).		 Before	installation	 of	any	 vent	 damper,	 consult	the	local 	
gas	utility	for	further	information.
To	 insure	 proper	 venting	 of	this	 gas-fired	 water	heater,	 the	correct 	
vent	 pipe	diameter	 must	be	utilized.	 	 Any	additions	 or	deletions	 of	
other	 gas	appliances	 on	a	common	 vent	with	this	water	 heater	 may	
adversely	 affect	the	operation	 of	the	 water	 heater.		 Consult	 your	gas	
supplier	if	any	such	changes	are	planned.
For	 proper	 venting	 in	certain	 installations,	 a	larger	 diameter	 vent	pipe	
may	 be	necessary.		 Consult	your	gas	supplier	 to	aid	 you	 in	determining 	
the	 proper	 venting	 for	your	 water	 heater	 from	the	vent	 tables	 in	the 	
current 	edition	 of	the	 National	 Fuel	Gas	Code	 ANSI	Z223.1/NFPA 		54. 	
Periodically	 check	the	venting	 system	for	signs	 of	obstruction	 or	
deterioration	and	replace	if	needed.
The	combustion	and	ventilation	air	flow	must	not	be	obstructed.
The	 water	 heater	 with	draft	 hood	 installed	 must	be	connected	 to	a	
chimney	 or	listed	 vent	pipe	 system,	 which	terminates	 to	the	 outdoors. 		
Never	 operate	 the	water	 heater	 unless	 it	is	 vented	 to	the	 outdoors 	
and	 has	adequate	 air	supply	 to	avoid	 risks	of	improper	 operation, 	
explosion	or	asphyxiation.
•	 For	 proper	draft	hood	 attachment,	 the	draft	 hood	 legs	may	 be	
angled	slightly	inward.
•	 Place	the	draft	hood	legs	in	the	receiving	holes	on	the	top	of	the 	
water	 heater.	 The	legs	 will	snap	 in	the	 holes	 to	give	 a	tight	 fit.	
Secure	draft	hood	with	the	supplied	brackets.
•	 Place	 the	vent	 pipe	 over	 the	draft	 hood.	 With	the	vent	 pipe	 in	position, 	
drill	 a	small	 hole	through	 both	the	vent	 pipe	 and	draft	 hood.	 Secure 	
them	together	with	a	sheet	metal	screw,	see	Figure	11.
Obstructed	 or	deteriorated	 vent	systems	 may	present	 serious	health	
risk	or	asphyxiation.
fIGure 11.
The	 vent	 pipe	from	 the	water	 heater	 must	be	no	less	 than	 the	diameter 	
of	 the	 draft	 hood	 outlet	 on	the	 water	 heater	 and	must	 slope	 upward 	
at	least	1/4	inch	per	linear	foot	(21	mm	per	meter),	see	Figure	12.
All	 vent	 gases	 must	be	completely	 vented	to	the	 outdoors	 of	the	
structure	 (dwelling).	 	 Install	only	the	draft	 hood	 provided	 with	the	
new	water	heater	and	no	other	draft	hood.
Vent 	pipes 	must 	be	 secured	 at	each	 joint	with	 sheet 	metal 	
screws. 
						

							13
fIGure 12.  
There	must	be	a	minimum	 of	6”	 (153	 mm)	clearance	 between	single	
wall	 vent	 pipe	and	 any	combustible	 material.	Fill	and	 seal	 any	
clearance	 between	single	wall	vent	 pipe	 and	combustible	 surfaces	
with	 mortar	 mix,	cement,	 or	other	 noncombustible	 substance.	For	
other	 than	single	 wall,	follow	 vent	pipe	 manufacturer’s	 clearance	
specifications. 	To	 insure	 a	tight 	fit 	of 	the	 vent 	pipe	 in	a	brick	 chimney,	
seal	around	the	vent	pipe	with	mortar	mix	cement.
Failure	 to	have	 required	 clearances	 between	vent	piping	 and	
combustible 	material	will	result	in	a	fire	hazard.
Be	 sure	 vent	pipe	 is	properly	 connected	 to	prevent 	escape	 of	
dangerous 	flue	gases	which	could	cause	deadly	asphyxiation.
Chemical	vapor	corrosion	 of	the	 flue	 and	 vent	 system	 may	occur	
if	 air	 for	 combustion	 contains	certain	chemical	 vapors.	Spray	can	
propellants, 	cleaning	 solvents,	refrigerator	 and	air	conditioner 	
refrigerants,	 swimming	pool	chemicals,	 calcium	and	sodium	 chloride, 	
waxes, 	bleach	 and	process	 chemicals	 are	typical	 compounds	 which	
are	potentially	corrosive.
Gas pIpInG
M a k e 	s u r e	t h e	g a s 	s u p p l i e d 	i s	t h e 	s a m e 	t y p e	l i s t e d 	o n	t h e 	m o d e l 	
rating	 plate.	The	inlet	 gas	pressure	 must	not	exceed	 14	inch 		
w a t e r 	c o l u m n 	( 2 . 6 	k P a) 	f o r 	n a t u r a l 	a n d 	p r o p a n e 	( L . P.) 	g a s . 	T h e 	
minimum	 inlet	gas	pressure	 shown	on	the	 rating	 plate	is	that 	
which	will	permit	firing	at	rated	input.
If	 the	 gas	 control	 valve	is	subjected	 to	pressures	 exceeding	
1/2	 pound	 per	square	 inch	(3.5	kPa),	 the	damage	 to	the	 gas	
c o n t r o l 	v a l v e	c o u l d 	r e s u l t 	i n	a	f i r e 	o r	e x p l o s i o n 	f r o m	l e a k i n g 	g a s .
If	 the	 main	 gas	line	shut-off	 serving	all	gas	 appliances	 is	
used,	 also	turn	“off ”	 the	gas	 at	each	 appliance.	 Leave	all	
gas	 appliances	 shut	“off ”	 until	the	water	 heater	 installation	 is	
complete.
A	 gas	 line	of	sufficient	 size	must	 be	run	 to	the	 water	 heater. 		
Consult	 the	current	 edition	of	National	 Fuel	Gas	Code	 ANSI	
Z223.1/NFPA	54	and	your	gas	supplier	concerning	pipe	size.
There	must	be:
• 	 A 	r e a d i l y 	a c c e s s i b l e 	m a n u a l	s h u t	o f f	v a l v e 	i n	t h e 	g a s 	s u p p l y 	
line	serving	the	water	heater,	and
•	 A	 sediment	 trap	ahead 	of	 the 	gas	 control	 valve	to	help 	
prevent	 dirt	and	 foreign	 materials	 from	entering	 the	gas	
control	valve.
•	 A	 flexible	 gas	connector	 or	a	ground	 joint	union	 between 	
the	 shut	 off	valve	 and	control	 valve	to	permit	 servicing	 of	
the	unit.
Be	 sure	 to	check	 all	the	 gas	 piping	 for	leaks	 before	 lighting	 the	
w a t e r 	h e a t e r. 	U s e	a	s o a py 	w a t e r	s o l u t i o n , 	n o t	a	m a t c h 	o r	o p e n 	
flame.	Rinse	off	soapy	solution	and	wipe	dry.
The	 minimum	 inlet	gas	pressure	 shown	on	the	 rating	 plate	is	
that	which	will	permit	firing	at	the	rated	input.
Water	 heaters	 covered	 in	this	 manual	 have	been	 tested	 and	
approved	 for	installation	 at	elevations	 up	to	7,700	 feet	(2,347 	
m)	 above	 sea	level.	 For	installation	 above	7,700	feet	(2,347	 m),	
the	 water	 heater’s	 Btu	input	 should	 be	reduced	 at	the	 rate	 of	
4	 percent	 for	each	 1,000	 feet	(305	 m)	above	 sea	level	 which 	
requires	 replacement	 of	the	 burner	 orifice	in	accordance	 with	
the	 National	 Fuel	Gas	Code	 ANSI	Z223.1/NFPA	 54.	Contact 	
your	local	gas	supplier	for	further	information.
Failure	 to	replace	 the	standard	 orifice	with	the	proper	 high	
altitude	 orifice	when	installed	 at	elevations	 above	7,700	feet	
(2,347	 m)	could	 result	 in	improper	 and	inefficient	 operation	of	
the	 water	 heater	 producing	 carbon	monoxide	 gas	in	excess 	
of	 the	 safe	 limits.	 This	could	 result	 in	serious	 injury	or	death. 	
Contact	 your	local	 gas	supplier	 for	any	 specific	 changes	 that	
may	be	required	in	your	area. 
						

							14
Use	pipe	joint	 compound	 or	teflon	 tape	marked	 as	being	 resistant	
to	the	action	of	petroleum	[Propane	(L.P.)]	gases.	
The	 water	 heater	 and	its	gas	 connection	 must	be	leak	 tested	 before	
placing	the	water	heater	in	operation.
The	 water	 heater	 and	its	individual	 shut-off	valve	shall	be	
disconnected	 from	the	gas	 supply	 piping	system	 during	any	pressure 	
testing	 of	that	 system	 at	test	 pressures	 in	excess	 of	1/2	 pound	 per	
square	 inch	(3.5	kPa).		 It	shall	 be	isolated	 from	the	gas	 supply	 piping	
system	 by	closing	 its	individual	 manual	shut-off	 valve	during	 any	
pressure	 testing	of	the	 gas	 supply	 piping	system	 at	test	 pressures	
equal	to	or	less	than	1/2	pound	per	square	inch	(3.5	kPa).
Connecting	 the	gas	 piping	 to	the	 gas	 control	 valve	of	the	 water 	
heater	 can	be	accomplished	 by	either	 of	the	 two	 methods	 shown	in	
Figures	13	and	14.
fIGure 13.  Gas pIpInG wIth fleXIBle connector.
fIGure 14.  Gas pIpInG wIth  all
BlacK Iron pIpe to Gas control.
sedIMent traps
A 	sediment	 trap	shall	 be	installed	 as	close	 to	the	 inlet	 of	the	 water	
heater 	as 	practical	 at	the	 time	 of	water	 heater	installation. 	The 	
sediment	 trap	shall	 be	either	 a	tee	 fitting	 with	a	capped	 nipple	in	the	
bottom	 outlet	or	other	 device	 recognized	 as	an	 effective	 sediment	
trap.	 If	a	 tee	 fitting		 is	used,	 it	shall	 be	installed	 in	conformance	 with	
one	of	the	methods	of	installation	shown	in	Figures	13	and	14.	
Contaminants	 in	the	 gas	 lines	 may	cause	 improper	 operation	 of	
the	 gas	 control	 valve	that	may	 result	 in	fire	 or	explosion.	 Before	
attaching	 the	gas	 line	be	sure	 that	all	gas	 pipe	 is	clean	 on	the	
inside.	 To	trap	 any	dirt	or	foreign	 material	 in	the	 gas	 supply	 line,	
a	 sediment	 trap	must	 be	incorporated	 in	the	 piping.	 The	sediment 	
trap 	must 	be 	readily 	accessible. 	Install 	in 	accordance 	with 	the 	
“Gas	 Piping”	 section.	 Refer	to	the	 current	 edition	of	the	 National 	
Fuel	Gas	Code,	ANSI	Z223.1/NFPA	54. 	 
						

							15 
						

							16
for Your safetY read Before lIGhtInG
Before lIGhtInG: entIre sYsteM Must Be fIlled wIth water and aIr purGed  at faucets.
warnInG: If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or 
explosion may result causing property damage, personal injury or loss of\
 life.
1.																STOP!		Read		the		safety	information	above	on		
	 		this	label.
2.	 Set	 the	thermostat	 to	the	 lowest	 setting	 by	turning 	
thermostat	dial	fully	clockwise	
	until	it	stops.
3.	 Push	 the	gas	 control	 knob	down	 slightly 	and	 turn	 clockwise 	
	to	“OFF”	(Figure	 A).
 
NOTE:	 Gas	control	 knob	CANNOT 	be	 turned	 from	“PILOT”	 
	 to	“OFF”	unless	it	is	pushed	down	slightly.	Do	not	force.
4.	 Remove	 the	inner	 and	outer	 doors	 located	 below	and	
behind	the	gas	control	unit.
5.	 Wait	 five	(5)	minutes	 to	clear	 out	any	 gas.	 If	you	 then	
smell 	gas														 STOP!		Follow	“B”	in	the	 safety	 information 	
above	on												 this	label.		 If	you	 do	not	 smell		 gas,	go	to	the 	
next	step.
6.	 Find	 Pilot.	Follow	 metal	tube	from	 the	bottom	 ,	right	 of	the 	
gas	control	to	the	pilot	burner.	(Figure	D).
7.	 Turn	 gas	control	 knob	counterclockwise	
	to 	“PILOT”	 	
(Figure	B).
8.		Push	gas	control	knob	down	all	the	way	and	hold	it	down.		
					Immediately	light	the	pilot	with	a	match.	Continue	to	hold		
	 the	gas	control	knob	down	for	about	one	(1)	minute		 	
	 after	the	pilot	is	lit.	Release	the	gas	control	knob	and	it		 	
	 will	pop	back	up.	Pilot	should	remain	lit.	If	it	goes	out,		 	
	 repeat	 Steps	3	through	 8.	It	may	 take	several	 minutes	 for 
	 air	to	clear	the	lines,	before	the	pilot	will	light.
		•	 If	knob	does	not	pop	up	when	released,	stop	and			
	 	 	 immediately	call	your	service	technician	or	gas		 	
	 	 	 supplier. 	
		•	 If	the	 pilot 	will	 not	stay	 lit	after	 several	 tries,	turn	 the		
	 	 	 gas	 control	knob	to	“OFF”	 (Figure	 A)	and	 call	 your		 	
	 	 	 service	 technician	or	gas	 supplier. 	
		9.	 Replace	inner	and	outer	burner	doors.
10.	 At	arm’s	length	away,	turn	the	gas	control		knob		 	
	 counterclockwise	
	to	“ON”	(Figure	C).
11.	 Set	thermostat	to	desired	setting	(See	Figure).
    cautIon: hotter water increases the risk  of  
  scald injury. consult the instruction  manual   
  before changing temperature.
lIGhtInG InstructIons
to turn off Gas to  applIance
1.	 Set	the	thermostat	to	lowest	setting.
2.	 Push	gas	control	 knob	down	 slightly	 and	turn	clockwise	 
to	“OFF”.		Do	not	force,	see	Figure	 A.
top vIew
fIGure “d”
Gas control
A.	 This	 appliance	 has	a	pilot	 which	 must	be	lighted	 by	hand. 		
When	 lighting	 the	pilot,	 follow	 these	instructions	 exactly.
B.  Before lIGhtInG:	 	 smell	all	around	 the	appliance 	
area	 for	gas.		 Be	sure	 to	smell	 next	to	the	 floor	 because 	
some	gas	is	heavier	than	air	and	will	settle	on	the	floor.
  what to do If You sMell  Gas
  •	 Do	not	try	to	light	any	appliance.
	 •	 Do	not	touch	any	electric	switch;	do	not	use		 	 	 any	phone	in	your	building.
	 •	 Immediately	call	your	gas	supplier	from	a		 	 	 neighbor’s	phone.		Follow	the	gas	supplier’s		 	
	 instructions.  
•	 If	you	cannot	reach	your	gas	supplier,	call	the		 	
	 fire	department.
C.	 Use	 only	your	 hand	 to	push	 down	 or		turn	 the	gas	 control 	
knob.		 Never	use	tools.		 If	the	 knob	 will	not	 push	 down	 or	
turn	 by	hand,	 don’t	try	to	repair	 it,	call	 a	qualified	 service	
technician.		 Force	or	attempted	 repair	may	result	 in	a	fire 	
or	explosion.
D.	 Do	 not	use	 this	appliance	 if	any	 part	 has	been	 under	
water.	 Immediately	 contact	a	qualified	 installer	or	service 	
agency	 to	replace	 a	flooded	 water	heater.	 Do	not	 attempt 	
to	repair	the	unit!	It	must	be	replaced! 
						

							17
for Your InforMatIon
start up condItIons
draft hood operatIon
Check	draft	hood	 operation	 by	performing	 a	worst	 case	
depressurization	 of	the	 building. 	With	 all	doors	 and	windows	 closed,	
and 	with 	all 	air 	handling 	equipment 	and 	exhaust 	fans 	operating 	such	
as	 furnaces,	 clothes	dryers,	range	hoods	 and	bathroom	 fans,	a	
match	 flame	should	 still	be	drawn	 into	the	draft	 hood	 of	the	 water	
heater	 with	its	burner	 firing.	 	If	the	 flame	 is	not	 drawn	 toward	 the	
draft	 hood,	 shut	off	water	 heater	 and	make	 necessary	 air	supply	
changes	to	correct.
condensatIon
Whenever	 the	water	 heater	 is	filled	 with	cold	 water,	 some	
condensate 	will	form 	while 	the	burner 	is	on. 		A	water 	heater 	may	
Never	 allow	small	 children	 to	use	 a	hot	 water	 tap,	or	to	draw	 their	own	
bath	 water.		 Never	leave	a	child	 or	handicapped	 person	unattended	
in	a	bathtub	or	shower.		
NOTE:		 A	water	 temperature	 range	of	120°F-140°F	 (49°C-60°C)	is	
recommended	by	most	dishwasher	manufacturers.
The	 thermostat	 of	this	 water	 heater	 has	been	 factory	 set	at	its	 lowest 	
position	 (PILOT LIGHTING).	 It	is	 adjustable	 and	must	 be	reset	 to	
the	 desired	 temperature	 setting	to	reduce	 the	risk	 of	scald	 injury.		
The	 mark	 (
	)	 indicative	 of	approximately	 120°F	(49°C)	 is	preferred 	
starting	 point.	Some	 States	 have	a	requirement	 for	a	lower	 setting.	
Turn	 the	water	 temperature	 dial	clockwise	 (	
	)	 to	 decrease	 the	
temperature,	 or	counterclockwise	 (			)	 to	 increase	 the	temperature.
Should	 overheating	 occur	or	the	 gas	 supply	 fail	to	shut	 off,	turn	 off	
the	manual	gas	control	valve	to	the	water	heater.
fIGure 15.
(U .S. Go vernme nt Me morand um , C. P.S. C. , Pe ter L.  Ar ms tron g, Se pt. 15 , 19 78)
110 (43) 
(normal shower temp.) 
116 (47)  (pain threshold) 
116 (47)  35 minutes  45 minutes
122 (50)  1 minute  5 minutes
131 (55)  5 seconds  25 seconds
140 (60)  2 seconds  5 seconds
149 (65)  1 second  2 seconds
154 (68)  instantaneous  1 second
Water
Te mp erat ur e
°F (°C) Time  fo r 1s t Degree  Burn(Less Severe Burns)
Time  for Pe rm anent  Burns2nd & 3rd Degree(Most Severe Burns)
(U.S. Go vernme nt Me morandum , C. P.S. C. , Pe ter L.  Ar ms tron g, Se pt. 15 , 19 78)
43 (110) (temp.  normale  d’une  douche ) 
47 (116) (seuil de douleur ) 
47 (116)  35 minutes  45 minutes
50 (122)  1 minute  5 minutes
55 (131)  5 secondes  25 secondes
60 (140)  2 secondes  5 secondes
65 (149)  1 seconde  2 secondes
68 (154)  instantaneous  1 seconde
Te
mp ératu re
de Ieau °C  (°F)
Délai pour des brûlures
au 1er degré
(b rû lures  moin s gr aves ) Délai pour des brûlurespermanentes au 2e et 3e degrés(brûlures les plus graves)
fIGure 16.
Short	
repeated	 heating	cycles	caused	 by	small	 hot	water	 uses	can	
cause	 temperatures	 at	the	 point	 of	use	 to	exceed	 the	thermostat	 setting	
by	 up	 to	30°F	 (16.7°C).	 If	you	 experience	 this	type	 of	use	 you	should 	
consider	using	lower	temperature	settings	to	reduce	scald	hazards. 	
Any	 water	 heater’s	 intended	 purpose	is	to	 heat	 water.	 	 Hot	water	 is	
needed	 for	cleansing,	 cleaning,	and	sanitizing	 (bodies,	dishes,	clothing). 		
Untempered	 hot	water	 can	present	 a	scald	 hazard.		 Depending	 on	the 	
time	 element,	 and	the	people	 involved	 (adults,	children,	 elderly,	infirm,	
etc.)	scalding	may	occur	at	different	temperatures.
HOTTER	 WATER	CAN	SCALD:	 Water	heaters	 are	intended	 to	
produce	 hot	water.		 Water	heated	 to	a	temperature	 which	will	satisfy 	
space	 heating,	 clothes	washing,	 dish	washing,	 and	other	 sanitizing 	
needs	 can	scald	 and	permanently	 injure	you	upon	 contact.	 	 Some	
people	 are	more	 likely	to	be	 permanently	 injured	by	hot	 water	 than	
others.		 These	include	 the	elderly,	 children,	 the	infirm,	 or	physically/
mentally	 handicapped.	 	 If	anyone 	using 	hot	 water	 in	your	 home 	
fits	 into	 one	 of	these	 groups	 or	if	there	 is	a	local	 code	 or	state	 law	
requiring	 a	certain	 temperature	 water	at	the	 hot	water	 tap,	then	 you	
must	 take	special 	precautions.		 In	addition 	to 	using 	the 	lowest	 possible 	
temperature	 setting	that	satisfies	 your	hot	water	 needs, 	a	 means	 such	
as 	a 	mixing 	valve 	should	 be	used	 at	the	 hot	water	 taps	used	 by	these 	
people	 or	at	the	 water	 heater. 		Mixing	 valves	are	available	 at	plumbing 	
supply	 or	hardware	 stores,	see	Figure	 2.	 	Follow	 manufacturer’s	
instructions	 for	installation	 of	the	 valves.		 Before	changing	 the	factory 	
setting	 on	the	 thermostat,	 read	the	“Temperature	 Regulation”	section	
in	this	manual,	see	Figures	15	and	16.
teMperature reGulatIon
a p p e a r 	t o	b e 	l e a k i n g 	w h e n	i n	f a c t 	t h e	w a t e r 	i s	c o n d e n s a t i o n . 		T h i s	
usually 	happens 	when:
a.		A 	new	water	heater	is	filled	with	cold	water	for	the	first	time.
b.		Burning	 gas	produces	 water	vapor	 in	water	 heaters,	 particularly	
high	efficiency	models	where	flue	temperatures	are	lower.
c.		 Large	 amounts	of	hot	 water	 are	used	 in	a	short	 time	and	the	refill	
water	in	the	tank	is	very	cold.
Moisture	 from	the	products	 of	combustion	 condense	on	the	 cooler	
tank	 surfaces	 and	form	 drops	 of	water	 which	may	 fall	onto 	the	 burner 	
or	other	hot	surfaces	to	produce	a	“sizzling”	or	“frying”	noise.
Excessive	 condensation	 can	cause	 pilot	outage	 due	to	water	 running 	
down	the	flue	tube	onto	the	main	burner	and	putting	out	the	pilot. 
						

							18
Because	of	the	 suddenness 	and	 amount 	of 	water, 	condensation 	
water	 may	be	diagnosed	 as	a	“tank	 leak”.	 	 After	the	water	 in	the	
tank	warms	up	(about	1-2	hours),	the	condition	should	disappear.
Do	 not	 assume	 the	water	 heater	 is	leaking	 until	there	 has	been 	
enough	time	for	the	water	in	the	tank	to	warm	up.
An	 undersized	 water	heater	 will	cause	 more	condensation.		 The	water 	
heater	 must	be	sized	 properly	 to	meet	 the	family’s	 demands	 for	hot	
water	 including	 dishwashers,	 washing	machines	 and	shower	 heads.
Excessive	 condensation	 may	be	noticed	 during	the	winter	 and	early 	
spring	 months	 when	incoming	 water	temperatures	 are	at	their	 lowest.
Good	 venting	 is	essential	 for	a	 gas 	fired	 water 	heater 	to	 operate	 properly 	
as	well	as	to	carry	away	products	of	combustion	and	water	vapor.
sMoKe/odor
It	 is	 not	 uncommon	 to	experience	 a	small	 amount	 of	smoke	 and	odor 	
during	 the	initial	 start-up.		 This	is	due	 to	burning	 off	of	oil	 from	 metal	
parts,	and	will	disappear	in	a	short	while.
therMal  eXpansIon
As	water	 is	heated,	 it	expands	 (thermal	expansion).	 In	a	closed	
system	 the	volume	 of	water	 will	grow	 when	 it	is	 heated.	 As	the	
volume	 of	water	 grows	 there	will	be	a	corresponding	 increase	in	
water	 pressure	 due	to	thermal	 expansion.	 Thermal	expansion	 can	
cause	 premature	 tank	failure	 (leakage).	 This	type	 of	failure	 is	not	
covered	 under	the	limited	 warranty.	 Thermal	expansion	 can	also	
cause	 intermittent	 Temperature-Pressure	 Relief	Valve	operation:	
water	 discharged	 from	the	valve	 due	to	excessive	 pressure	build	
up.	 This	 condition 	is	 not	 covered	 under	the	limited	 warranty.	 The	
Temperature-Pressure	 Relief	Valve	is	not	 intended	 for	the	 constant	
relief	of	thermal	expansion.
A 	properly	 sized	thermal	 expansion	 tank	must	 be	installed	 on	all	
closed	 systems	 to	control	 the	harmful	 effects	of	thermal	 expansion.	
Contact	 a	local	 plumbing	 service	agency	 to	have	 a	thermal	 expansion 	
tank	installed.
stranGe sounds
Possible	 noises	due	to	expansion 	and	 contraction	 of	some	 metal	
parts	 during	 periods	 of	heat-up	 and	cool-down	 do	not	 necessarily	
represent	harmful	or	dangerous	conditions.
Condensation	 causes	sizzling	 and	popping	 within	the	burner	 area	
during	 heating	 and	cooling	 periods	 and	should	 be	considered	 normal.		
See	“Condensation”	in	this	section.
operatIonal condItIons
sMell Y w ater
In	 each	 water	 heater	 there	is	installed	 at	least	 one	anode	 rod	(see	
parts	 section)	 for	corrosion	 protection	 of	the	 tank.	 	 Certain	 water	 conditions	
will	cause	 a	reaction	 between	 this	rod	and	 the	water.		
The	 most	 common	 complaint	 associated	 with	the	anode	 rod	is	one	
of	 a	“rotten	 egg	smell”	 in	the	 hot	water.	 	 This	odor	 is	derived	 from	
hydrogen	 sulfide	gas	dissolved	 in	the	 water.		 The	smell	 is	the	 result	
of	four	factors	which	must	all	be	present	for	the	odor	to	develop:
a.		A 	concentration	of	sulfate	in	the	supply	water.
b.		Little	or	no	dissolved	oxygen	in	the	water.
c.		 A 	sulfate	 reducing	 bacteria	which	has	accumulated	 within	the	
water	heater	(this	harmless	bacteria	is	nontoxic	to	humans).
d.		An	 excess	 of	active	 hydrogen	 in	the	 tank.		 This	is	caused	 by	the	
corrosion	protective	action	of	the	anode.
Smelly	 water	may	be	eliminated	 or	reduced	 in	some	 water	heater 	
models	 by	replacing	 the	anode(s)	 with	one	of	less	 active	 material,	 and	
then	 chlorinating	 the	water	 heater	 tank	and	all	hot	 water	 lines.		 Contact 	
the	 local	 water	 heater	 supplier	 or	service	 agency	 for	further	 information 	
concerning	 an	Anode	 Replacement	 Kit	and	 this	chlorination	 treatment.
If	 the	 smelly	 water	persists	 after	the	anode	 replacement	 and	chlorination 	
treatment,	 we	can	 only	 suggest	 that	chlorination	 or	aeration	 of	the 	
water	supply	be	considered	to	eliminate	the	water	problem.
do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected.  By doing 
so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.
“aIr” In hot water faucets
HYDROGEN	 GAS:	Hydrogen	 gas	can	be	produced	 in	a	hot	 water 	
system	 that	has	not	been	 used	for	a	long	 period	 of	time	 (generally 	
two	 weeks	 or	more).	 	 Hydrogen	 gas	is	extremely	 flammable	 and	
explosive.		 To	prevent	 the	possibility	 of	injury	 under	 these	conditions, 	
we	 recommend	 the	hot	water	 faucet, 	located	 farthest	away, 	be 	
opened	 for	several	 minutes	 before	any	electrical	 appliances	 which	are	
connected	 to	the	 hot	water	 system	 are	used	 (such	 as	a	dishwasher 	
or	 washing	 machine).		 If	hydrogen	 gas	is	present,	 there	will	probably 	
be	 an	unusual	 sound	similar	 to	air	 escaping	 through	the	pipe	 as	the 	
hot	 water	 faucet	 is	opened.		 There	must	be	no	smoking	 or	open	 flame 	
near	the	faucet	at	the	time	it	is	open.
hIGh water teMperature shut off sYsteM
This	 water	 heater	 is	equipped	 with	an	automatic	 gas	Shut-off	 system.		
This	 system	 works	when	high	water	 temperatures	 are	present.	 The	
high	 temperature 	Shut-off	 is	built	 into	the	gas	 control	 valve.	 	It	is	
non-resettable.		 If	the	 high	 temperature	 Shut-off	activates,	 the	gas	
control	 valve	must	be	replaced.	 Contact	your	gas	supplier	 or	service 	
agency.	 Turn	“OFF”	the	entire	gas	supply	to	the	water	heater.		 
						

							19
You	should	 check	for	sooting.	 Soot	is	not	 normal	 and	will	impair	
proper	combustion.
Soot	 build-up	 indicates	 a	problem	 that	requires	 correction	 before	
further	 use.		Turn	 “OFF”	 gas	to	 water	 heater	 and	leave	 off	until	 repairs 	
are	 made,	 because	 failure	to	correct	 the	cause	 of	the	 sooting	 can	
result	in	a	fire	causing	death,	serious	injury,	or	property	damage.
natural
propane
fIGure 17.
Burner cleanInG
If 	inspection	 of	the	 burner	 shows	that	cleaning	 is	required, 	turn	 the	gas  
control	 knob	clockwise	 (	
	)	 to	 the	 “OFF”	 position,	 depressing	 slightly.
note: the knob cannot be turned from “pI lot” to “off ” unless 
knob is depressed slightly.  do not force.
Loose	 deposits	 on	or	around	 the	burner	 can	be	removed	 by	carefully  
using	 the	hose	 of	a	vacuum	 cleaner	inserted	 through	the	access	 door	
of	 the	 water	 heater.		 If	the	 burner	 needs	to	be	 removed	 for	additional	
cleaning,	 call		a	service	 agency	 to	remove	 and	clean	 the	burner	 and	
correct	the	problem	that	required	the	burner	to	be	cleaned.
houseKeepInG
Vacuum	 around	base	of	water	 heater	 for	dust,	 dirt,	and	 lint	on	a	
regular	basis.
ventInG sYsteM InspectIon
At	 least	 once	a	 year	 a	visual	 inspection	 should	be 	made 	of	 the	 venting 	
system.		 You	should	look	for:
1. 		Obstructions	 which	could	cause	 improper	 venting.	 	 The	
combustion	and	ventilation	air	flow	must	not	be	obstructed.
2.		Damage	 or	deterioration	 which	could	cause	 improper	 venting	or	
leakage	of	combustion	products.
3.		Rusted	flakes	around	top	of	water	heater.
Be	 sure	 the	vent	 piping	 is	properly	 connected	 to	prevent	 escape	of	
dangerous	flue	gases	which	could	cause	deadly	asphyxiation.
Obstructions	 and	deteriorated	 vent	systems	 may	present	 serious	
health	risk	or	asphyxiation.
Chemical	 vapor	corrosion	 of	the	 flue	 and	 vent	 system	 may	occur	
if	 air	 for	 combustion	 contains	certain	chemical	 vapors.	Spray	can	
propellants, 	cleaning	 solvents,	refrigerator	 and	air	conditioner 	
refrigerants,	 swimming	pool	chemicals,	 calcium	and	sodium	 chloride, 	
waxes, 	bleach	 and	process	 chemicals	 are	typical	 compounds	 which	
are	potentially	corrosive.
If	 after	 inspection	 of	the	 vent	 system	 you	found	 sooting	 or	
deterioration,	 something	is	wrong.	 	 Call	the	local	 gas	utility	 to	
correct	 the	problem	 and	clean	 or	replace	 the	flue	 and	 venting	 before	
resuming	operation	of	the	water	heater.
Burner InspectIon
Flood	 damage	 to	a	water	 heater	 may	not	be	readily	 visible	or	
immediately	 detectable.	However,	over	a	period	 of	time	 a	flooded	
water	 heater	 will	create	 dangerous	 conditions	which	can	cause 	
DEATH,	 SERIOUS	 BODILY	INJURY,	 OR	PROPERTY 	DAMAGE.	
Contact	 a	qualified	 installer	or	service	 agency	 to	replace	 a	flooded	
water	 heater.	 Do	not	 attempt	 to	repair	 the	unit!	 It	must	 be	replaced!
At	 least	 once	 a	year	 a	visual	 inspection	 should	be	made	 of	the	 main	
burner	and	pilot	burner,	see	Figure	17.		
perIodIc MaIntenance 
						

							20
In	replacing	the	anode:
1.	Turn	off	gas	supply	to	the	water	heater.
2.	Shut	 off	the	 water	 supply	 and	open	 a	nearby	 hot	water	 faucet	
to	depressurize	the	water	tank.
3.	 Drain	 approximately	 5	gallons	 of	water	 from	tank.	 (Refer 	
to 	“Draining 	and 	Flushing” 	for 	proper 	procedures). 	Close 	
drain 	valve.
4.	Remove	old	anode	rod.
5.	 Use	 Tefl	on®	 tape	 or	approved	 pipe	sealant	 on	threads	 and	
install	new	anode	rod.
6.	 Turn	 on	water	 supply	 and	open	 a	nearby	 hot	water	 faucet	
to	 purge	 air	from	 water	 system.	 Check	for	any	 leaks	 and	
immediately	correct	any	if	found.
7.	 Restart	 the	water	 heater	 as	directed	 in	this	 manual.	 See	the	
Repair	Parts	Illustration	for	anode	rod	location.
teMperature-pressure  
relIef v alve operatIon
 
                     
The	 temperature-pressure	 relief	valve	 must	be	manually	 operated	
at	least	once	a	year.
When	 checking	 the	temperature-pressure	 relief	valve	 operation, 	
make	 sure	that	(1)	no	one	 is	in	 front	 of	or	 around	 the	outlet	 of	the	
temperature-pressure	 relief	valve	 discharge	 line,	and	(2)	that	 the	
water	 discharge	 will	not	 cause	 any	property	 damage,	 as	the	 water	
may	be	extremely	hot,	see	Figure	18.
fIGure  19.
If 	after	 manually	 operating	 the	valve, 	it 	fails	 to	completely	 reset	and 	
continues	 to	release	 water,	immediately	 close	the	cold	 water	 inlet	
to	 the	 water	 heater,	 follow	the	draining	 instructions,	 and	replace 	
the	temperature-pressure	relief	valve	with	a	new	one.
If	 the	 temperature-pressure	 relief	valve	 on	the	 water 	heater 	weeps 	
or	 discharges	 periodically,	 this	may	 be	due	 to	thermal	 expansion. 	
You	 may	 have	 a	check	 valve	installed	 in	the	 water	 line	or	a	water 	
meter	 with	a	check	 valve.	 Consult	 your	local	 water	 supplier	 or	
service	 agency	 for		further	 information. 	Do	 not	plug	 the	temperature-
pressure	relief	valve.
INSTALLED	 IN	SUITABLE	 AREA:	To	insure	 sufficient	 ventilation 	
and	 combustion	 air	supply,	 proper	clearances	 from	the	water	 heater	
must	 be	maintained.	 See	“Locating	 the	New	 Water	 Heater”	 section.		
Combustible	 materials	such	as	clothing, 	cleaning	 materials, 	or 	
flammable	 liquids,	etc.	must	 not	be	placed	 against	 or	adjacent	 to	
the	water	heater	which	can	cause	a	fire.
anode rod InspectIon
Each	 water	 heater	 contains	 at	least	 one	anode	 rod,	which	 will	
slowly	 deplete	 (due	to	electrolysis)	 prolonging	the	life	of	the 	
water 	heater 	by	protecting 	the	glass-lined 	tank	from 	corrosion. 	
Adverse 	water 	quality, 	hotter 	water 	temperatures, 	high 	hot 	water 	
usage,	 and	water	 softening	 methods	can	increase	 the	rate	 of	
anode	 rod	depletion.	 Once	the	anode	 rod	is	depleted,	 the	tank 	
will	start	to	corrode,	eventually	developing	a	leak.
Certain	 water	conditions	 will	cause	 a	reaction	 between	 the	anode 	
r o d 	a n d 	t h e	w a t e r. 	T h e	m o s t 	c o m m o n 	c o m p l a i n t 	a s s o c i a t e d 	w i t h	
t h e 	a n o d e 	r o d	i s	a	“ r o t t e n 	e g g	s m e l l ” 	p r o d u c e d 	f r o m	t h e	p r e s e n c e 	
o f 	h y d r o g e n 	s u l f i	d e	g a s 	d i s s o l v e d 	i n	t h e 	w a t e r. 	I M P O R TA N T: 	D o	
not 	remove	 this	rod	permanently	 as	it	will	 void	 any	warranties.	 A	
s p e c i a l 	a n o d e	r o d	m a y 	b e	a v a i l a b l e 	i f	w a t e r 	o d o r	o r	d i s c o l o r a t i o n 	
o c c u r s . 	N O T E :	T h i s	r o d	m a y 	r e d u c e 	b u t	n o t	e l i m i n a t e 	w a t e r	o d o r	
p r o b l e m s . 	T h e 	w a t e r 	s u p p l y 	s y s t e m 	m a y 	r e q u i r e 	s p e c i a l 	f i 	l t r a t i o n 	
equipment	 from	a	water	 conditioning	 company	to	successfully 	
eliminate	all	water	odor	problems.
A r t i f i 	c i a l l y 	s o f t e n e d 	w a t e r	i s	e x c e e d i n g l y 	c o r r o s i v e	b e c a u s e	t h e	
process 	substitutes 	sodium 	ions 	for 	magnesium 	and 	calcium 	
ions.	 The	use	of	a	water	 softener	 may	decrease	 the	life	of	the 	
water	heater	tank.
T he 	an o de 	r o d	sh o ul d 	b e	insp e c te d 	af te r	a	ma x imum 	of	t hre e 	
years	 and	annually	 thereafter	 until	the	condition	 of	the	 anode 	
rod	 dictates	 its	replacement. 	NOTE: 	Artifi	 cially	 softened	 water	
requires	the	anode	rod	to	be	inspected	annually.
The	 following	 are	typical	 (but	not 	all) 	signs	 of	a	 depleted 	
anode	rod:
•	 The	majority	of	the	rods	diameter	is	less	than	3/8”.
•	 Significant	 sections	of	the	 support	 wire	(approx.	 1/3	or	more 	
of	the	anode	rod’s	length)	are	visible.
fIGure  18.
If	 the	 anode	 rod	show	 signs	of	either	 or	both	 it	should	 be	replaced.	
NOTE:	 Whether	 re-installing	 or	replacing	 the	anode	 rod,	check	 for	
any	leaks	and	immediately	correct	if	found.