American Water Heater 40 Gallon 42000 BTU UltraLow Nox Power Vent Natural Gas Water Heater PVUG6240T42NV User Manual

							21
Operational Conditions
CondensationMoisture from the products of combustion condenses on 
the tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater 
and forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or 
other hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying” 
noise. This condensation is normal and should not be 
confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may increase 
or decrease at different times of the year.
High effi cient energy saver water heaters will produce 
larger amounts of condensation on initial start-up or 
when a large amount of hot water is being used. Do not 
confuse this with a “tank leak”. Once the water reaches 
a temperature of 120°F (49°C) and the tank warms up 
(usually 1-2 hours), the condensation will stop.
CAUTION - PROPERTY DAMAGE HAZARD
IMPORTANT: It is always recommended that a suitable 
metal drain pan be installed under the water heater 
to protect the area from water damage resulting from 
normal condensation production, a leaking tank or piping 
connections. Refer to “Location Requirements” section 
Water Heater SoundsDuring the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or 
noises may be heard. These noises are common and may 
result from the following:
1.  Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts     during periods of heat-up and cool-down.
2.  Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the     burner area and should be considered normal.
3.  Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create     varying  amounts of noise and may cause premature  
tank failure. Drain and  fl ush the tank as directed   
under “Draining and Flushing”.
Smoke/OdorThe water heater may give off a small amount of smoke 
and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to 
the burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will 
disappear after a few minutes of operation. 
Safety Shut-offThis water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in 
the event of the following:
1.  The water temperature exceeds 180°F (83°C.)
2.  A blockage occurs in the combustion chamber air inlet,  
 the  fl ue gas exhaust outlet, or both the inlet and outlet.
3.  The blower fails to operate or operates improperly.
4.  The ignition of fl  ammable vapors. 
A high temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) in 
the tank is used to shut off the unit if the water temperature 
exceeds 180°F (83°C.) The ECO is a single use switch and 
requires complete replacement of the entire thermostat. 
If the ECO should actuate, the water heater cannot be 
used until the thermostat is replaced by a quali fi ed person. 
Contact your local dealer for service information.
Anode Rod/Water OdorEach water heater contains at least one anode rod, which 
will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank 
from corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater. 
Once the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, 
eventually developing a leak. Certain water conditions will 
cause a reaction between this rod and the water.  The most 
common complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten 
egg smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide 
gas dissolved in the water . IMPORTANT: Do not remove this 
rod permanently as it will void any warranties.  The parts list 
includes a special anode that can be ordered if water odor 
or discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may reduce but not 
eliminate water odor problems. The water supply system 
may require special aeration or chlorination equipment from 
a water conditioning company to successfully eliminate all 
water odor problems.  
The use of a water softener may decrease the life of the 
water heater tank.  The anode rod should be inspected after 
a maximum of three years and annually thereafter until the 
condition of the anode rod dictates its replacement.  NOTE: 
Artifi  cially softened water requires the anode rod to be 
inspected annually.  The following are typical (but not all) 
signs of a depleted anode rod:
•  The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
• Signifi  cant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or 
more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be 
replaced. NOTE: Whether re-installing  or replacing the anode 
rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if found.
In replacing the anode:
1.  Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2.  Shut off the water supply and  open a nearby hot water faucet to 
depressurize the water tank.
3.  Drain approximately 5 gallons of water  from tank (Refer to the “Draining 
and Flushing” section for proper 
procedures). Close drain valve.
4.  Remove old anode rod.
5. Use Tefl  on
® tape or approved pipe 
sealant on threads and install new 
anode rod.
6.  Turn on water supply and open a  nearby hot water faucet to purge air 
from water system. Check for any 
leaks and correct immediately if found.
7.  Restart the water heater as directed  under the “Operating Your Water Heater” section.  See the 
“Repair Parts Illustration” section for anode rod location.
TEFLON® is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.
30 seconds if no further buttons are pressed. After 30 
seconds the control will go back to “Sleep” mode.
2.   Release both of the temperature adjustment buttons.
  A. To decrease the temperature press and release the    “COOLER” button until the desired setting is reached.
  B. To increase the temperature press and release the  “HOTTER” button until the desired setting is reached.
NOTE: Holding down the button will not continue to lower or 
raise the temperature setting. The button must be pressed 
and released for each temperature change desired. 
Should overheating occur or the gas supply fail to shut off, 
turn off the manual gas control valve to the appliance.
NOTE:   During low demand periods when hot water is not 
being used, a lower thermostat setting will reduce energy 
losses and may satisfy your normal hot water needs. If hot 
water use is expected to be more than normal, a higher 
thermostat setting may be required to meet the increased 
demand. When leaving your home for extended periods 
(vacations, etc.) turn the temperature dial to its lowest 
setting. This will maintain the water at low temperatures 
with minimum energy losses and prevent the tank from 
freezing during cold weather.
Figure 18
Anode Rod Depletion
Pitted 
Anode 
Rod 
Exposed 
Support 
Wire 
Exposed 
Support 
Wire 
Temperature Setting  Display   
                 A   B   C 
C - Flashing = approx. 160°F 
               C = approx. 150°F                B = approx. 140°F                   
A =  approx.  130°F 
               
 = approx. 120°F                   
WARM = approx. 80°F 
                  
Figure 17
Gas Valve/
Thermostat Settings 
						

							22
MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WATER HEATER
Draining and Flushing
It is recommended that the tank be drained and fl ushed 
every 6 months to remove sediment which may build up 
during operation. The water heater should be drained if 
being shut down during freezing temperatures. To drain the 
tank, perform the following steps:
1.  Turn off the gas to the water heater at the manual    gas shut-off valve.
2.  Turn off the electrical supply to the water heater.
3.   Open a nearby hot water faucet until the water is no  longer hot.
4.  Close the cold water inlet valve.
5.  Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to     an adequate drain or external to the building.
6.  Open the water heater drain valve and allow all the     water to drain from the tank. Flush the tank with   
water as needed to remove sediment.
7.  Close the drain valve, re fi ll the tank, and restart the   heater 
as directed under “Operating Your Water Heater.”
If the water heater is going to be shut down for an extended 
period, the drain valve should be left open.
IMPORTANT:  Condensation may occur when re fi lling the 
tank and should not be confused with a tank leak.
Routine Preventive 
Maintenance
At least annually, a visual inspection should be made of 
the venting and air supply system, piping systems, main 
burner, and fl  ame sense/hot surface igniter. Check the 
water heater for the following:
•  Obstructions, damage, or deterioration in the venting   system. Make sure the ventilation and combustion air 
supplies are not obstructed. 
•  Build up of soot and carbon on the main burner.  Check  for a soft blue fl  ame.  Discoloration is normal.  Clean 
the burner as described in “Natural Gas Burner (Ultra 
Low Nox).”  Also, to clean the combustion chamber, 
follow these steps: 1.) Remove the burner door 
assembly as described in this manual; 2.) Remove 
loose debris from the combustion chamber with a 
vacuum cleaner/shop vac; 3.) Replace the burner door 
assembly as described in this manual.
•  Dust or debris on the fl  ame arrestor at the bottom of 
the combustion chamber.  If needed, use compressed
  air to clear dust and debris from the  fl ame arrestor.   
•  Leaking or damaged water and gas piping.
• Presence of  fl ammable or corrosive materials in the    
installation area.
•  Presence of combustible materials near the water heater.
•  Verify proper operation after servicing this water    heater.
IMPORTANT:  If you lack the necessary skills required 
to properly perform this visual inspection, you should not 
proceed, but get help from a quali fi ed person.
Temperature and Pressure 
Relief Valve
Explosion Hazard
If the temperature and pressure relief valve 
is dripping or leaking, have a qualified 
person replace it.
Examples of a qualified person include:
licensed plumbers, authorized gas company 
personnel, and authorized service 
personnel.
Do not plug valve.
Do not remove valve.
Failure to follow these instructions can 
result in death, or explosion.
WARNING
Manually operate the temperature and pressure relief valve 
at least once a year to make sure it is working properly 
(see Figure 19.) To prevent water damage, the valve must 
be properly connected 
to a discharge line 
which terminates at 
an adequate drain. 
Standing clear of the 
outlet (discharged 
water may be hot), 
slowly lift and release 
the lever handle on 
the temperature and 
pressure relief valve 
to allow the valve to 
operate freely and 
return to its closed position. If the valve fails to completely 
reset and continues to release water, immediately shut off 
the manual gas shut-off valve and the cold water inlet valve 
and call a quali fi ed person.
Figure 19   
Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve 
Temperature and Pressure 
Relief Valve  Manual Relief 
Valve 
Discharge line to drain  
						

							23
Replacement Parts
Replacement parts may be ordered through your 
plumber or the local distributor. Parts will be shipped at 
prevailing prices and billed accordingly. When ordering 
replacement parts, always have the following information 
ready:
1.  model, serial, and product number
2.  type of gas
3. item number
4. parts description
See “Repair Parts” section.
IMPORTANT: If you lack the necessary skills to perform 
the procedures in this section, you should not proceed.  
Get help from a qualifi ed person.
Removing the Burner Door Assembly
1.  Turn off the gas to the water heater at the manual 
gas shut-off valve (See figure 2) and disconnect 
power to the water 
heater.
2.  Remove the outer     door.
3.  Remove the two screws  securing the burner door 
assembly to the skirt.
4. Disconnect the hot  surface igniter/flame 
sense wires and manifold 
tube at the  gas control 
valve/thermostat.  See 
Figure 20A. 
5.   Remove both wire  terminals from the FV 
sensor (Figure  20B).  
Keep the FV sensor for 
later use.
  NOTE:  The FV sensor bracket is located at the 
bottom edge of the water heater (front).  

To remove 
the sensor from the bracket, simply open the bracket 
door and slide the assembly out.
Figure 20B
FV Sensor
Terminals (2)
FV Sensor Bracket
    
6.  Grasp the manifold tube and push down slightly to free  the manifold from the gas control valve/thermostat.
7.  Carefully remove the burner door assembly from the  burner compartment. Be sure not to damage internal  
parts.
8.  Check the burner to see if it is dirty or clogged.  See  “Natural Gas Burner (Ultra Low Nox).”  
FIGURE 20A   
Gas Valve/Thermostat 
Manifold  
Tube Hot Surface  
Igniter/Flame 
Sense Connector 
Natural Gas Burner (Ultra Low Nox)
Check the burner to see if it is dirty or clogged. The burner 
may be cleaned with soft paint brush (Figure 21). Do not use 
a wire brush or any tool that may damage the burner screen.  
IMPORTANT: Do not use the burner if the burner screen 
is damaged.  Damage may be rips or holes in the burner 
screen.  Discoloration is normal.
See also “Routine Preventive Maintenance.”
FIGURE 21
Burner Cleaning
Use a soft brush on this surface.
FIGURE 20C
Burner Door Assembly 
Burner Door AssemblyBurner Door Gasket
Flame Sense/
Hot Surface 
Igniter Wires
Manifold Tube
Hot Surface Igniter
and Flame Sense Rod
Burner
Burner
Viewport
Manifold Component Block 
						

							24
Replacing the Burner Door Assembly
1.  Check the door gasket for damage or imbedded debris prior to installation.
2.  Inspect the viewport for damage and replace as required.
3.  Insert the burner assembly into the burner  compartment, making sure that the burner assembly 
sits firmly against the bracket inside the combustion 
chamber. See Figure 22. 
FIGURE 22
Close-up inside view of the combustion chamber
Bracket
4.  Inspect the door gasket and make sure there is no fiberglass insulation between the door gasket and the 
combustion chamber.
5.  Replace the two screws that secure the burner door  assembly to the combustion chamber and tighten them 
securely. Once the burner door assembly is secured, 
visually inspect the gasket between the door and the 
combustion chamber for spaces or gaps that would 
prevent a seal.  IMPORTANT: Do not operate the water 
heater if the burner door gasket does not create a seal 
between the door and the combustion chamber.
6.  Reconnect the manifold tubing to the gas control
Tighten both burner door screws securely.
  valve/thermostat.  Do not cross-thread or apply any  thread sealant to the manifold tubing.
7.  Reconnect the Flame Sense/Hot Surface Igniter  wires to the thermostat (Figure 20A).
8.  Connect both wire terminals to the FV sensor as  shown in Figure 20B, then place the sensor inside 
the bracket.  Ensure that the terminals are secure 
and that the bracket door is closed securely.
9.  Turn gas supply on and refer to the Lighting Instructions.
10.  Check for leaks by brushing on an approved  noncorrosive leak detection solution.  If such a 
solution is not available, use a mixture of dish 
washing soap and water (one part soap to 15 parts 
water) or children’s soap bubble solution. Bubbles 
will show a leak. Correct any leak found. 
11.  Replace the outer door, then verify correct operation.
Removing and Replacing the Gas 
Control Valve/Thermostat
IMPORTANT: Use only factory authorized replacement parts.
Removing the Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:
1.  Set the gas control valve/thermostat to its lowest  setting by first depressing the COOLER 
 and 
HOTTER 
  buttons together
 and hold for 1 second. 
Then press the COOLER 
 button until the WARM 
indicator light appears.  (Figure 17).
2.  Unplug the water heater from the wall outlet.
3.  Turn off the gas at the manual shut-off valve on the  gas supply pipe (Figure 2).
4.  Drain the water heater. Refer to the “Draining and  Flushing” section and follow the procedure.
5.  Disconnect the flame sense/hot surface igniter wire  from the thermostat. Disconnect the manifold tube 
at the gas control valve/thermostat (Figure 20A). 
6.  Refer to “Gas Piping” (Figure 2) and disconnect the  ground joint union in the gas piping. Disconnect the 
remaining pipe from the gas control valve/thermostat.
7.  To remove the gas control valve/thermostat, thread a  correctly sized pipe into the inlet and use it to turn the 
gas control valve/thermostat (counterclockwise.) Do not 
use pipe wrench or equivalent to grip body.  Damage 
may result, causing leaks. Do not insert any sharp 
objects into the inlet or outlet connections. Damage to 
the gas control valve/thermostat may result.
Replacing the Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:
To replace the gas control valve/thermostat, reassemble in 
reverse order. Use only factory authorized replacement parts.
•  Be sure to use approved Teflon
® tape or pipe joint 
compound on the gas piping connections and fitting 
on the back of the gas control valve/thermostat that 
screws into tank.
•  Turn gas supply on and check for leaks. Use a  chloride-free soap and water solution (bubbles 
forming indicate a leak) or other approved method. 
•  Be sure tank is completely filled with water before  lighting and activating the water heater. Follow the 
Lighting Instructions.
•  If additional information is required, contact  Residential Technical Assistance.
TEFLON ®
 is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.
Explosion Hazard
Remove any fiberglass between gasket  
and combustion chamber.
Replace viewport if glass is missing or
 
damaged.
Replace door gasket if damaged.
Failure to follow these instructions can 
result in death, explosion, or fire.
WARNING
Replace manifold component block if
missing or removed.  
						

							25
TROUBLESHOOTING
Please check the guidelines below.  For your safety, water heater service should be performed only by a qualifi ed person.  
# LED STATUS PROBLEM SOLUTION
1
Inadequate or no earth ground. 1  Ensure the wall outlet (power supply) is properly grounded.
2  Ensure all ground connections/wires on the water heater are 
securely connected.
2
High resistance to earth ground or 
reversed polarity in the 120 VAC 
power supply. 1  Ensure that the water heater is securely connected to earth 
ground.
2  Ensure that the wall outlet/power supply is properly wired.    Also, ensure that internal 120 VAC wiring connections and the 
wiring harness have no reversed wires. 120 VAC hot wire 
must connect to the on/off switch.
3
Pressure switch circuit remaining 
closed for more than 5 seconds 
after heating cycle begins.
Blower may not start in this 
condition. 1  Ensure air pressure switch circuit wiring is correct and the 
air pressure switch is not jumpered.
2  Replace the air pressure switch.
4
Pressure switch circuit remains 
open longer than 5 seconds after 
the blower is energized.
Blower may run continuously in 
this condition. 1  Ensure the air pressure switch sensing tube is properly 
connected at both ends and is not kinked or damaged.
2  Ensure the correct size of vent and intake air pipe (direct vent  products) was used per the installation instructions that came 
with the water heater.
3  Ensure the maximum number of elbows or maximum  equivalent feet of vent or intake air pipe have not been 
exceeded per the installation instructions that came with the 
water heater.
4  Ensure there are no obstructions in the vent or intake air pipe.
5
Open hot surface igniter circuit. 1  Check wiring to the hot surface igniter assembly - replace 
igniter assembly if wiring is damaged or worn.
2  Check resistance of the igniter at igniter assembly plug -  should be between 11 and 18 ohms at room temperature 
(77° F at plug end) - replace igniter if open or shorted.
3  Check igniter assembly plug and the socket on the gas  control valve/thermostat for good connection.   Replace igniter 
assembly if the plug is worn or damaged.
4  Replace the gas control valve/thermostat if the igniter  assembly socket on the bottom of the control is worn or 
damaged.
6
Ignition/fl  ame failure.
The gas control valve/thermostat 
has reached the maximum number 
of retries (3) for ignition and is 
currently locked out for one hour.
Cycle the power to the water heater 
off and on to reset. 1 Ensure 
fl ame sensor is making good contact with the burner 
fl  ame and ensure  fl ame is steady.  Also ensure supply and 
manifold gas pressures are within the requirements in the 
installation manual.  
2  Gas supply is turned off or gas pressure is too low.  For low  gas pressure, consult with your gas utility. 
3 Ensure the  fl ame sensor is clean - use  fi ne steel wool to 
clean the fl  ame sensor.
4  Check igniter assembly plug and the socket on the bottom of  the gas control valve /thermostat for good connection. Replace 
igniter assembly if the plug is worn or damaged.  Replace the 
gas control valve /thermostat if socket is worn or damaged.
5  Replace igniter assembly.
Continued on the next page. 
						

							26
TROUBLESHOOTING cont.
#LED STATUS PROBLEM SOLUTION
7
8
9
Self diagnostic check has detected 
a problem with the gas valve driver 
circuit, internal microprocessor, or 
other internal circuits. 1  Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds, then on again to clear 
these error codes.
2  If any of these error codes persist or cannot be cleared,  replace the gas control valve/thermostat.
10
Flame signal sensed out of proper 
sequence. 1  Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds, then on again to clear 
these error codes.
2  Replace the gas control valve/thermostat if this error code  persists.
11
Water in the tank has exceeded the 
maximum allowable temperature, 
activating the ECO (energy cut off). 1  Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds, then on again to clear 
these error codes.
2  Replace the gas control valve/thermostat if the error code  persists.
12
One or both of the temperature 
adjust buttons are stuck. 1  Press and release both temperature adjust buttons several 
times - cycle water heater power off and on.
2  Replace the gas control valve/thermostat if the error code  persists.
13
The water temperature sensor 
(located in the control valves 
immersion probe) is either open or 
shorted. 1  Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds, then on again to clear 
these error codes.
2  Replace the gas control valve/thermostat if the error code  persists.
14
The FV (fl  ammable vapor) sensor is 
either open or shorted. 1  Turn off power to the water heater.  Ensure all FV sensor 
wiring, the ignitor assembly plug, and the ignitor assembly 
socket on the bottom of the Intelli-Vent control are making 
good contact.  Repair or replace any worn/damaged 
components that are not making good connection.
2  Replace the FV sensor.
15
Self diagnostic check has detected 
the presence of fl  ammable vapors 
from the FV ( fl ammable vapor) 
sensor. 1  Do not touch any electrical switch, do not use any phone in 
your building, and do not try to light any appliance.
2  Smell around the water heater to ensure there are no gas  leaks at the gas control valve/thermostat, in the supply gas 
line(s), or any other type of fl  ammable vapor(s) in the area.
3  Carefully inspect the area surrounding the water heater  for any substances such as gasoline, paint, paint thinners, 
varnish, or cleaners that could emit  fl ammable vapors. 
Remove anything that can potentially emit  fl ammable vapors 
from the area and store it properly in a different location.
4  Call the technical information support phone number shown  on the water heater labeling for further assistance. 
						

							27
TROUBLESHOOTING cont.
PROBLEMCAUSE SOLUTION
NO HOT WATER
Blower will not run.
A) Blower unplugged. Plug blower back into 115 VAC. outlet.
B) No power at outlet. Repair service to outlet.
C) Thermostat defective. Replace thermostat.
D) High limit control circuit open. Replace ECO.
E) Blower motor defective. Replace Blower Assembly.
F) Pressure switch defective. Replace Pressure Switch/Blower Assembly.
NOT ENOUGH HOT WATER
Thermostat problems.
A) Thermostat set too low. Set temperature control higher.
B) Thermostat or ECO defective. Replace thermostat or ECO as required.
Others
A) Heater undersized. Reduce hot water use.
B) Low gas pressure. Contact dealer.
C) Incoming water is unusually cold. Allow more time for heater to reheat.
D) Leaking hot water pipes or fixtures. Have plumber check and repair leaks.
VENT PIPE TOO HOT
A) Defective air flow restrictor Take unit out of service immediately, call a qualified 
person to service the unit.
B) Not enough dilution air to mix with flue  gases in inlet elbow. Proper dilution air must be provided for combustion 
and dilution of flue temp. See “Combustion Air 
Supply/Vent Pipe System”, section.
C) Dilution air too hot for mixing with flue  gases. Supply air is too hot. Check for heat sources around 
intake terminal and blockage of dilution air leg.
D) Wrong burner orifice. Install correct orifice.
YELLOW FLAME
A) Dirt in burner ports.Turn off heater and gas, clean burner head.
B) Combustion air path restricted. Check intake venting arrangements for obstructions.
C) Not enough dilution air for proper  combustion. Check intake venting arrangements for obstructions.
CONDENSATIONA) Water on the floor under heater. See “OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS”, section.
B) Water dripping from blower assembly. Provide drip “TEE” to catch condensation from 
horizontal section of exhaust vent close to blower 
assembly.
WATER LEAKS
A) Improperly sealed, hot or cold supply connections, relief valve, drain valve or 
thermostat threads. Tighten threaded connections.
B) Leakage from other appliances or water  lines. Inspect other appliances near water heater.
C) Condensation of flue products. See “OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS”, section.
LEAKING T&P
A) Thermal expansion in closed water 
system. Install thermal expansion tank (DO NOT plug T&P 
valve).
B) Improperly seated valve. Check relief valve for proper operation (DO NOT 
plug T&P valve).
HOT WATER ODORS
(See ANODE ROD/WATER  ODOR, Section)A) High sulfate or mineral content in water supply. Drain and flush heater thoroughly then refill.
B) Bacteria in water supply. Chlorinate water supply.
WATER TOO HOTA) Thermostat set too high. See “WATER TEMPERATURE REGULATION”, 
section.
WATER HEATER SOUNDS 
SIZZLING-RUMBLINGA) Condensation dripping on burner. See “OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS”, section.
B) Sediment at bottom of heater tank. See “MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WATER HEATER”,  section.
SOOTINGA) Improper combustion.See “Combustion Air Supply/Vent Pipe System”, 
section.
HEATER LIGHTS BUT  GOES OUT IN 4-5  SECONDSA) Outlet polarity is reversed. Test polarity and correct. 
						

							28
REPAIR PARTS ILLUSTRATION
Item No. Parts Description
1 Blower
2 Pressure Switch (Not Pictured)
3 Flue Baffle
4 Heat Trap (Cold)
5 Heat Trap (Hot)
6 Cold Water Dip Tube
7 Anode Rod*
8 Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
9 Drain Valve
10 Gas Control Valve/Thermostat 11 Flame Sensor/Hot Surface Igniter (HSI)**
12 FV Sensor**
13 FV Sensor Bracket**
14 Burner Door Assembly - Natural Gas / Ultra Low Nox**
15 Manifold Component Block w/Retainer Clip**
16 Viewport Assembly**
17 Burner Door Gasket**
18 Outer Door
19 Flexible Manifold Tube**
When ordering repair parts always give the following 
information:
1.   Model, serial and product number
2.   Type of gas
3.   Item number
4.   Parts description
Repair Parts List
* Special anode rod available.  See “Anode Rod/Water Odor” section.
** Pictured on next page.
1 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
13
18
10
14 
						

							29
Listed Parts Kits and Illustrations
Item 11:  Flame Sense/Hot Surface Igniter Assembly. 
Item 12:  FV Sensor
Item 13:  FV Sensor Bracket
Item 14:  Burner door assembly (contains the manifold tube, gasket, manifold door\
, manifold component block with retainer clip, and flame sensor/hot surface igniter assembly).  Natural\
 Gas.
Item 15:  Manifold component block with retainer clip.
Item 16:  Viewport.
Item 17:  Burner door gasket.
Item 19:  Flexible manifold tube.
ITEM 11
ITEM 14
ITEM 16
ITEM 17ITEM 15
ITEM 19
ITEM 12ITEM 13 
						

							30
NOTES